Geographically, Stewart Island/Rakiura is the forgotten child of New Zealand. It is to New Zealand, what Alexander Hamilton is to American Politics. Everyone knows it’s there, and they know it’s kind of important but not really sure why! Ask anyone from either the North or South Island of New Zealand and they’ll most assuredly tell you it’s a wonderful place, yet ask them if they’ve actually set foot on it and you’ll most likely get an embarrassed shake of the head. Well, I can tell you that it’s a terrific spot with sheltered inlets, forested hills, rugged coasts, dunes, inlets and that’s only the start of its remarkable landscapes. It has a long history of Māori habitation, sealers and whalers lived there from around 1800 and its social history is as interesting as any other part of New Zealand. It truly is a most delightful place!
As I was standing looking out to the South Pacific Ocean, it occurred to me that autumn was most definitely taking hold. The warm evenings of summer had disappeared, only to be replaced by changeable weather patterns that not only brought with it cooler temperatures but also more frequent spells of wind and rain. I continued along the track, pausing for a moment to look out over a farm field that stretched down a slope and eventually stopped where the horizon met the ocean. I had the place all to myself and it was threatening to rain.
The Glenorchy Boardwalk is a truly picturesque place. Stretching over wetlands with multiple places to stop and take in views over lagoons that are framed by surrounding trees and look out towards Mount Earnslaw Mount Alfred and the surrounding ranges. It really is a glorious spot.
Having spent the afternoon photographing a local rugby match at Jack Reid Park in Arrowtown, I retired to my hotel where I showered and changed, reorganised my gear and went in search of a local pub. Several minutes later, I found a local establishment that I decided needed further investigation. I went inside, went about making myself comfortable and invested some time in testing several pints of beer while at the same time demolishing a pulled pork burger and successfully managing to drip BBQ sauce down my top. It was while I was contemplating whether I should attempt to clean my top or test another pint when the bar staff made the surprising announcement of last orders! Wondering if I had missed something I checked my watch to find it was all of 9:05pm. Still trying to make sense of the fact that the pub was shutting at 9:00pm on a Saturday night, several minutes later I found myself standing on Buckingham Street with half an hour to kill before the Highlanders game kicked off. So, with four pints to the wind, a full stomach and the night air starting to feel a little crisp, I decided I might as well put the time to good use and headed in a mostly straight line in search of some historic gold miners’ cottages to see if I could drink and click!
The other day I was in Arrowtown to cover a local rugby match between Arrowtown and Wakatipu that was being played at Jack Reid Park. These aren’t two heavyweights of New Zealand rugby you’ll understand, simply two local teams that have a fierce rivalry. Whenever they play it’s called “the battle of the basin” and it always draws a big crowd and Saturday’s match was no exception. For the record, Wakatipu won 27 to 19 with low misty rain and clouds hanging around for most of the day. However, late in the match the cloud cover did clear enough for the hillside which provides the backdrop to Jack Reid Park to be exposed with all its autumn glory. As far as backgrounds go there aren’t many rugby grounds in the world that can top Jack Reid Park in autumn.
I had Tunnel Beach all to myself the evening I took this which makes taking photos so much easier. It’s become a really popular spot so to get it all to myself was really something. I timed my trip so the tide would be out which meant I had lots of options and choices as the sun made silhouettes out of the rocks and bounced light off the sand.
There are some very cool video’s floating around of yesterday’s Solar Eclipse. Check out this awesome video of the the crowd at Klyde Warren Park in Dallas, Taxas as they react to the moon passing between the earth and the sun.
Daily Photo: South Dunedin
South Dunedin
This is a shot I took on a helicopter ride over Dunedin a few years ago. It’s not a view of Dunedin I often see, so it’s nice to be reminded how different things can look if you can your perspective. It also reminds me how much the whole area of South Dunedin has changed in 200 years.
Over two hundred years ago the area wasn’t solid land. There were lots of tidal inlets with wide spread marshy swamp land covered with tussock, rushes and flax. It was also home to a wide variety of bird life. Out towards the coast near the suburbs of St Clair and St Kilda, there were low lying sand dunes and a large lagoon that stretched towards Lawyer Head. From that point the land was covered in a much higher series of sand dunes.
In the mid-1800’s when Dunedin began to be settled as a city, dry level land was in high demand. So, much of the wet, low areas were filled with any material available including a section near the beach being used as a tip. A tip right next to a beach, what could possibly go wrong!
Roughly 10 km to the west of the township of Omarama you’ll find the Clays Cliffs. Formed around two million years ago, they are an impressive sight and a good wee stroll if you need to stretch your legs. Personally, I always think they look like something out of a spaghetti western movie. I keep expecting Lee Van Cleef or Clint Eastwood from For a Few Dollars More to suddenly appear. Or, if I’m really lucky, Claudia Cardinale from Once Upon A Time In The West might make an appreance. However instead of seeing an Italian film actress, all I ever seem to end up with are British tourists in campervans.
The other day I began to wonder what international visitors are told about New Zealand before they arrive. Needing an answer, I turned to the ever popular Lonely Planet publication and looked up Christchurch:
“Welcome to a vibrant city in transition, coping creatively with the aftermath of NZ’s second-worst natural disaster. Traditionally the most English of NZ cities, Christchurch’s heritage heart was all but hollowed out following the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes that left 186 people dead.”
This delightful scene I discovered on my way to Paradise and yes, here in New Zealand there really is a place called that. It’s located on the eastern shoreline of the Dart River at the head of Lake Wakatipu. If you’re heading to Paradise (I like being able to write that), before you get there you’ll pass Diamond Lake, a popular camping and fishing spot and a true gem of a conversation area. Actually, I spent hours there. I only stopped for a look and I ended up walking along tracks and watching all sorts of wildlife. I even went for a swim in the lake.
I’d completely forgotten about the Ross Creek Waterfall (also known as School Creek Waterfall). It really is a hidden surprise! Found along the trail that runs beside School Creek, it’s a delightful tranquil spot and completely man made. Although it appears a natural creation as the water cascades down from the reservoir, in fact the falls were created as a diversion channel when the reservoir was first created.
What’s not to love about Maggies (aka the former Morning Magpie) with its hip, urban vibe and relaxed atmosphere. I hear the Hotcakes are wonderful, the Leek and Potato Stew is great, the Full English breakfast is terrific and the coffee is always delicious. Not a bad place to pass a few minutes during the day if you’re close to lower Stuart Street in Dunedin.
Here’s what I can tell you about this piano (organ) which I discovered in the Owaka Museum. The antique organ is carved and turned in wood and finished with red fabric along the front while the keys are constructed of wood with white plastic and ebony. Made by the Cornish Piano & Organ company, the business was established in Washington, New Jersey in 1879. Once production started, the reputation of the company quickly grew and it was known for producing products with excellent craftsmanship. So popular were the pianos and organs, by the 1890’s, the Cornish company was producing over 10,000 instruments a year, shipping them all over the world.
Unfortunately, in 1922 a devastating fire ripped through the Cornish company, bruning the factory to the ground. The company was never rebuilt, instead replaced over time by a gas station and later a food store. These days, the pianos and organs made by the company can be found all over the world, including this one in the Owaka museum.
There’s a popular misconception that the town of Outram was the first town in New Zealand to have electric street lights. In fact, Outram’s streets were not lit until around 1900, 11 years after the West Coast town of Reefton had lights switched on in 1888. The Outram Pub however is one of the town’s historic sights, as the original pub was opened in 1878. It was then rebuilt on the corner of Hoylake and Holyhead Streets where it still stands today.
Primarily a sheep, beef and dairy farming area, you’ll find the small town of Clydevale 30 kilometres north-west of the South Otago town of Balclutha. Close by is the Danone milk factory which produces the Karicare brand of infant formula, there’s a few local businesses, a rugby club and that’s about it. Yet, there’s something quite delightful about the whole area. Maybe it’s the very big river that runs through the town or maybe it’s just that, a small country town.
Dunedin really does have some wonderful heritage buildings when you stop to look at them. Personally, I don’t think I do that enough. I was talking to someone last week from Auckland who was spending a few days in the city on an IT mission and the first thing he commented on was all the buildings. I think his comment was “I wish we had more of them in Auckland.” This is one of the buildings he commented on, the former Bank of New Zealand Building at 205 Princes Street which if you go back far enough in time was once a hotel.
Alexander Garvie’s career as a surveyor wasn’t particularly long, however he did achieve one remarkable accomplishment in his lifetime. British-born, Alexander Garvie left the English port of Gravesend on the ship Blundell, arriving in New Zealand in September 1848. Initially working as a carpenter and builder, Garvie retrained as a surveyor in the early 1850’s and went on to obtain the position of Assistant Surveyor in the Otago Regional Council. Taking part in many surveying developments in Otago and Southland, his most notable legacy is in naming The Remarkable mountain range in Queenstown. The story goes that during a reconnaissance survey in 1857, Garvie came into view of a spectacular and stunning mountain range that he exclaimed was “Remarkable.” Unfortunately Garvie he died only four years later in Dunedin, in 1861. For Alexander Garvie, his surveying career lasted less than 10 years but within that time he named a spectacular piece of South Island scenery.
The Remutaka Hill road is a narrow and winding 14km stretch of state highway, north of Wellington that snakes its way from Upper Hutt, over Remutaka Hill to the Wairapapa. Now, I can tell you that when you find yourself stuck on the Remutaka Road, in a very long line of traffic that isn’t moving, you have lots of time to ponder. So, that’s just what I did and within the great many things that crossed my mind, one question I kept coming back to. Who was the first person to drive over this road? That question ruminated in my mind for quite some time and while I didn’t discover the answer, I did find out the interesting tale of the Greytown to Wellington train from September 1880.
It seems that on the 11th September the train left Greytown at 8:30am bound for Wellington city. After stopping at Cross Creek where a second locomotive was added for preceding hill climb, the train set off over the Remutaka Hill. All was going well until about 1200m from the summit at a point called Siberia Curve when suddenly, a massive gust of wind hit the train. Estimated at nearly 200km/hour, the fierce wind swept three carriages off the tracks into the gully below, killing four people and leaving debris scattered across the hillside. Fortunately, following the accident the brake van remained gripped to the track enabling the rear brakesman to uncouple the van and coast back down the hill to Cross Creek to get help.
If there’s one thing New Zealand has a long history with, it’s boats. From the early migrations of the Polynesians who reached the south-west corner of the Pacific between 1250 to 1300 AD, to famous people like Able Tasman and James Cook, New Zealanders do seem to enjoy boats. In fact, boating is New Zealand’s largest recreational activity with 1.9 million people participating in boating activities each year and it being a $2.9 billion dollar industry. According to 2023 statistics, there are more than 1,540,000 boats in New Zealand with an annual growth of an estimated 45,000 vessels per year. That’s not bad for a tiny nation in the south-west corner of the Pacific.
Finding myself within 20 or so kilometres of the Kerikeri Mission, I couldn’t resist and took a detour. The plan being to see the oldest European buildings in the country which I must admit, I was looking forward to seeing. I had read that both the stone store and wooden house were set in an enchanting riverside location in a sleepy basin, the two buildings sitting on a riverbank, surrounded by orchards and flowerbeds. It really was a tranquil, peaceful setting.
Fortunately when I passed by the museum was open – although it was hard to tell. With the entrance on a busy highway, I wandered how many people had driven past without even knowing it was open. However, on this day it was and I was extremely pleased as it meant I could spend all morning wandering around the backyard of an original Kiwi innovator such as Ernest Hayes and the famous Hayes Engineering Works, Museum and Homestead.
This is another South Island location that is popular in the summer months, Lake Tekapo. The first sheep farm in the area dates back to 1857 which was owned by John and Barbara Hay on the shores of Lake Tekapo. Soon after, a hotel was established in 1861 before a ferry was set up to cross the Tekapo River. These days it’s a popular holiday and tourist destination in the MacKenzie Basin.
Once upon a time the streets around Queens Garden and Vogel Street in Dunedin were some of the busiest in the country. Close to the city docks, the warehouse precinct as it became known developed into the heart of Dunedin’s wholesale trade. With some of the industries in the area being built during or immediately following the Otago gold rush, some of the older more imposing buildings are a direct result of the wealth of gold brought into the city.
When it comes to Larnach’s Castle, where do you start? It could be with the fact that it’s not a castle at all, or it could be with the castle rumoured to be haunted by William Larnach himself or even the story of the rise and fall of William Larnach as a businessman in Otago. He rose to prominence as a banker at the time of the gold rush and went on to have many successes in politics, business and other industries before losing much of his fortune and falling on harder times. He built a grand house on the Otago Peninsula, was married three times, had six children and finally committed suicide in Parliament in Wellington via a gun in 1898. The tragedy even had its own intriguing twist with details pointing towards the tragedy resulting from an affair between Larnach’s third wife Constance and his youngest son Douglas.
The track across the two swing bridges that lead to the Blue Pools in Makarora have been closed since May last year. That’s due to the bridges needing repairs and ongoing maintenance work so they last. Recently, I read a news article on this very subject that outlined how visitors are ignoring the closure and making their way through to the Blue Pools anyway. This can be done one of two ways. Firstly, simply climbing over the rather large and securely fastened fence that blocks access to the bridges. Secondly, pushing through the bush and wading through the rather rapid and swift river over to the opposite bank to the pool blue. Either way, the many tourists (into the hundreds) who venture to this wonderful area end up destroying the very scenery they’ve come to see.
The other month I went for a wander and explore at the Harington Point gun emplacements on Otago Peninsula. The site was first constructed in response to the threat of a Russian invasion in 1885 following Anglo–Russian tensions in Afghanistan. Anyway, while I was there, after scrambling up and down banks and pushing through gorse, I found one of the buildings that leads to a stairwell. From that point, it accesses other parts of the complex including subterranean communications tunnels, bunkers, observation points and a magazine and engine room.
This is right beside Fleur’s Place in the small village of Moeraki. A place that is known for its outstanding seafood cuisine. However, due to the fact that I don’t have a strong stomach for shellfish, calamari, octopus, shrimp, squid, sole, flounder or any other food source that lives in the ocean, I won’t be eating there any time soon. By all accounts it’s very good with a delightful setting to boot.
Back in my younger days, when I was a lot less worldly and knowledgeable than I am now, I never liked spending time at a Botanical Garden. I simply couldn’t see the point. Why on earth would I want to spend time walking around looking at plants! Now, many years later I’ve come to truly appreciate a slow, quiet amble in a peaceful, tranquil setting. One such location is the Mediterranean Garden at the Dunedin Botanical Gardens. I think it’s the view I like best. Although, I always seem to get slightly lost finding it and never fail to take a wrong turn upon leaving.
… from a Small City. My daily musings from Ōtepoti to get you inspired. Read the blog, view the photos, embrace the creativity.
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Bathing Beach Inlet on Stewart Island
205 Princes Street
The corner of 
Larnach’s Castle
Dunedin’s Mediterranean Garden