The Guinness Factory & The River Liffey

Daily Photo: The Guinness Factory & The River Liffey

For a long time, I didn’t particularly like this photograph. I was in Dublin, wandering around with a camera, and somewhere along the way I had the opportunity to cross the River Liffey and photograph the famous Guinness gates. I didn’t. At the time I was with extended family and the idea of making the effort seemed slightly unnecessary. I had already seen plenty of photographs of Guinness, and I was quite happy wandering the streets on my own side of the river. Sometimes, apparently, I can be remarkably efficient at talking myself out of taking a photograph.

It was only later, when I looked back at the images from the trip, that this one started to grow on me. There is something almost ridiculously Irish about the combination of the Guinness brewery and the Liffey. If someone had asked me to put together a photograph that summed up Dublin without resorting to leprechauns, shamrocks or a man playing a fiddle in a pub, this would probably have been somewhere near the top of the list.

The photograph itself is a little more complicated than simply pointing a camera at a brewery. The Guinness buildings sit behind the old brick wall, while the Liffey provides the reflection in the foreground. The bare winter tree sits almost perfectly in the middle, tying the two halves together, and for once the river was actually behaving itself. It was still enough to give me a reflection without requiring me to do anything clever.

I suppose that is why I’ve come back to this photograph. It reminds me that photographs don’t always reveal themselves immediately. Sometimes you take one because the opportunity is there, forget about it for years, and then discover that the photograph you almost didn’t bother taking has quietly become one of the better reminders of where you’ve been.

And, in this case, it is difficult to get much more Dublin than Guinness, the Liffey and a tree that looks like it has been standing there wondering what all the fuss is about. It also gave me a reason to visit the Guinness Factory next time I was in Dublin.

George’s Street Arcade in Dublin

Daily Photo: Brassière or Brasserie?

Before arriving in Dublin, I’d been given a vague rundown of what we’d be doing and an even vaguer idea of where we’d be staying. So, to fill the time on the very long flight from Singapore to Heathrow, I decided to work my way through a bit of Dublin’s history in a book I’d brought with me, rather than sitting through the seemingly endless selection of inflight movies, which always appears to consist of romantic comedies, love-filled dramas and Mamma Mia on almost permanent rotation.

I figured a little reading might be more useful, although I use the word “useful” rather generously. Most of what I was reading would probably never come in handy unless I found myself in a local pub quiz in some small Irish village. Among the random bits and pieces was a mention of George’s Street Arcade. I’d been told about the arcade because it was one of the vague places that might be worth wandering around while we were in Dublin.

So imagine my surprise when, two days after Christmas, I was wandering the streets of Dublin, quietly humming the well-known tune of “Cockles and Mussels”, when I turned a corner and there it was.

George’s Street Arcade.

The entrance seemed to guide me in through a collection of carefully placed Christmas trees, and inside there was a quiet, post-Christmas lull. Overhead, Victorian ironwork framed a soft glow from the lingering festive lights, while the red brick walls provided shelter from the passing drizzle. The whole place had a slow, agreeable rhythm to it.

People drifted between stalls piled high with faded vinyl, pre-loved clothing and paperbacks whose pages seemed to smell faintly of someone else’s history. The smell of coffee filled the chilly air, footsteps echoed softly across the worn tiles, and the muted chatter of shoppers gave the place the sort of atmosphere that encouraged you to slow down and have a look around, even if you had no particular idea what you were looking for.

I wandered around for a while, taking it all in, before eventually heading back out onto South Great George’s Street. I stood there for a moment, looking around to see if anything else caught my eye, then headed off in the direction of St Stephen’s Green and hoped, as I often do in unfamiliar cities, that I wouldn’t get lost.

Although I did manage to misread a sign across the road. At first glance, I thought it said Brassière Sixty Six, which seemed like a remarkably large and rather upmarket shop devoted entirely to bras. The window display seemed a little odd, but then again, I wasn’t entirely sure what the Dublin lingerie market was like. It took me a moment to realise that it actually said Brasserie Sixty Six, a popular Dublin restaurant.

Which suddenly explained why the clientele appeared to be overwhelmingly male.

Strolling Along Harcourt Street

Daily Photo – Krystle & Diceys

The plan for my first morning in Dublin was simple: a quick stroll through the city centre, followed by breakfast with a few friends. So it was that we soon found ourselves pushing through the crowds of Grafton Street, past the Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, and continued along St Stephen’s Green before crossing onto Harcourt Street. We were heading for what I was reliably informed was one of the best spots for breakfast in the whole of Dublin. 

Along the way, I found a nice bit of symmetry in the Dublin buildings, all decorated in Christmas cheer, before ducking into the Iveagh Gardens to work up an appetite.

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A Visit to The Shankill Road

From the late 1960s to the late 1990s, Northern Ireland was gripped by “The Troubles”, a bitter nationalist conflict. On one side were republican paramilitaries (like the IRA and INLA), predominantly Catholic, who fought for a united Ireland. On the other were loyalist paramilitaries (like the UVF), predominantly Protestant, who fought to remain part of the United Kingdom. For today’s photo, we travel to The Shankill Road in Belfast, which became the heartland of the loyalist groups.

Daily Photo – Memorial wall, where the wreaths Rest


Major William Marchant
On a rainy Tuesday afternoon in April 1987, William Marchant stood outside the UVF’s headquarters above a Shankill Road chip shop. A hijacked car pulled up, and Provisional IRA gunmen opened fire, killing him instantly before abandoning the vehicle nearby. The IRA targeted Marchant because he was a high-ranking UVF figure, historically linked through intelligence reports and rumour to major loyalist operations, including the devastating 1974 Dublin and Monaghan bombings. His assassination was a calculated strike by republicans against the UVF’s leadership structure during a decade defined by intense, cyclical tit-for-tat violence between the rival factions.

Lieutenant Colonel James Trevor King
On June 16, 1994, senior UVF commander Trevor King was standing near a public phone box at the corner of Spiers Place, deep in conversation. Suddenly, a gunman from the Irish National Liberation Army (INLA), a republican splinter group, approached and opened fire. King was critically wounded and died of his injuries weeks later in hospital. The INLA carried out the hit to disrupt the loyalist command structure during a highly volatile period. With rumours of a ceasefire looming, paramilitary groups on both sides were aggressively targeting key figures to maximise their leverage before the political landscape shifted.

Volunteer David Hamilton
Davy Hamilton was standing beside Trevor King on that fateful June afternoon and was caught directly in the same sudden volley of INLA gunfire. He was rushed to hospital but died of his severe injuries the following day. King was the primary target of the attack, while Hamilton was an active UVF volunteer and part of the local command unit. The INLA struck them together, delivering a dual blow to the Shankill UVF’s operational core by capitalising on a rare moment when two key figures stood exposed on the open street.

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The Theft of The Irish Crown Jewels

Daily Photo – Dublin Castle

In the early summer of 1907, when it was announced that King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra of Britain would be calling by Dublin Castle the following month to pop in for a visit, a cup of tea, and to tap Lord Castletown on each shoulder with a sword, everyone got very excited. Clearly, there was much to-do in readiness for the four-day royal visit and naturally, everyone wanted to put their best foot forward and present a good showing. 

The visit meant, among other things, that the Irish Crown Jewels would be required for the King to admire and show off a little during the ceremony. Normally, they were kept under lock and key in a steel safe located within the Bedford Tower at Dublin Castle and a man named Sir Arthur Vicars was entrusted with that key.

Of course, before the King laid eyes on the regalia, just like the household silverware, it required a bit of a touch-up, a clean and polish so it would look its best for the King’s arrival. Yet, as the date neared and the time came to prepare the royal jewellery, the safe was unlocked, opened, and to everyone’s surprise, the jewels were gone! 

Which really wasn’t much of a surprise at all, as Sir Arthur was perhaps not the best man for the job. 

The problem was that Sir Arthur had three notable character flaws. Firstly, he wasn’t particularly nice to those who worked beneath him. Second, he was very fond of a drink, extremely fond, it seems. Thirdly, he had a habit of losing his keys. As far as character flaws go, it was the perfect trifecta: condescension, inebriation, and forgetfulness. Something his friends and co-workers took full advantage of. 

It seems it was an open secret that Sir Arthur would regularly wake from a stupor to find his drinking companions playing practical jokes on him, frequently using his own safe keys as props for their late-night amusement. So, when the safe was found empty, with a distinct lack of evidence for detectives to go on, all eyes naturally turned to Sir Arthur. After all, the thieves had simply walked up and turned a key. 

Naturally, the King was furious and Sir Arthur was immediately sacked, his career ruined. The investigation that followed read like a Victorian melodrama. Accusations flew wildly. High-society aristocrats were accused, as were Dublin’s artistic bohemians. There were even whispers of a secret society operating right under everyone’s noses. 

Yet the jewels were never found and the mystery remains unsolved, to this very day, more than a century later. No one is any the wiser and the disappearance of the Irish Crown Jewels remains one of history’s most enduring mysteries.

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The Belfast Bean Stalk

Daily Photo – Victoria Square Shopping Centre

To clean and tidy up the city, Belfast officials poured £400 million pounds into a new complex which they named Victoria Square Shopping Centre. The crowning glory of the entire complex was a huge glass dome that sat an impressive 45 metres off the ground and provided an impressive 360-degree panoramic view of the Belfast skyline.

As impressive as all this was, the thing about building a viewing platform 40 metres in the air, under 635 panes, providing a 360-degree view of the city, is that once it is there, you have to get people up there to use it! This was solved by constructing what looks like a space-age plant from a futuristic version of ‘Jack and the Bean Stalk’. So everyone could see the wondrous complex on their way to the top, a glass elevator was installed so shoppers could soak up the vista on the way up, while a glass spiral staircase was wrapped around the outside for those feeling a bit more enthusiastic.

Earlier in the day, my wife and I had met up with a close family friend from home who happened to be in Belfast too, largely because she grew up in a village just down the road. Faced with the choice of catching up over coffee or joining me for a hike to the top of the dome to see the skyline, they had opted for the coffee, agreeing we’d all regroup once I’d finished.

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Hooray for Hollywood

Daily Photo – The Wild Uplands of County Wicklow

A few years back, I had the pleasure of spending Christmas with my wife and her extended family on the Emerald Isle, and at one stage we gathered near a village called Hollywood in County Wicklow, Ireland, for a little post-Christmas get-together. It was a delightful affair filled with good company, good food, and plenty of good humour. At one point, I took a moment during the festivities to step outside with my camera and tripod, which is when I took this photo.

Now, if you’re anything like me, you’ll be asking the obvious question: is Hollywood, California, named after Hollywood in County Wicklow, Ireland? Well, according to local folklore, a local named Matthew Guirk emigrated from the village to California following the Great Famine. Being a blacksmith and horse breeder, he built a cabin and a small racetrack in the northwest of Los Angeles, naming his homestead “Hollywood”, and thus the name stuck! Unfortunately, the truth is somewhat different and doesn’t involve the little Irish village at all, but let us not let the truth get in the way of a good story!

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The Dome

Daily Photo – The Solar Sail in the Belfast Dome

When Belfast needed a central city upgrade after the signing of the Good Friday agreement in 1998,they poured £400 million pounds into a new complex which they named Victoria Square Shopping Centre. Its designers had ambitious and lofty goals with the crowning glory of the entire complex – the cherry on top if you will – was a huge glass dome that sat an impressive 45 metres off the ground. Made up of 635 individual triangular panes of glass held in place by a massive steel framework weighing 200,000 kilograms – it was the equivalent of roughly 40 adult elephants floating effortlessly above the city. When finished, the dome provided an impressive 360-degree panoramic view of the Belfast skyline, which the public could enjoy from a public viewing platform, offering views that stretch from the historic Belfast City Hall and the contours of Cavehill, all the way across to the towering yellow Harland and Wolff cranes in the Titanic Quarter.

The only problem with all of this was that engineers quickly discovered during the design process that what they had created was in actual fact a giant hotplate above the streets of Belfast. On the rare occasions that Belfast had a sunny day, the dome would act as a massive glasshouse and without intervention, the viewing platform and streets below would become unbearably hot. The solution was a stroke of genius. Instead of pulling the whole thing apart, the solution came in the form of a simple rotating fabric solar sail designed to track the sun throughout the day, filtering out the intense glare and heat of the Belfast sun, naturally regulating the open-air microclimate below so everyone could happily go about their day without having to worry about being burnt to a crisp or spontaneously combusting while shopping for socks!

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Dublin’s Secret Garden

If you find the Iveagh Gardens in Dublin, and make your way to the large sunken lawn, you’ll find yourself standing on one of only two purpose-built archery fields in Ireland, which tells you all you need to know about Victorian nobility’s leisure activities. It looks like a remarkably elegant Victorian lawn, yet buried beneath the immaculate grass lies an elephant from Dublin Zoo, interred there in 1922.

Daily Photo – The Iveagh Gardens in Dublin

On my first morning in Dublin, my hosts informed me we’d be going on a little wander through the city centre before meeting friends for a spot of breakfast. Having just stepped off a twelve-hour flight from Hong Kong in the wee hours of the morning, an amble seemed a capital idea. 

After some cursory ablutions and a short car ride, we were soon pushing through the crowds of Grafton Street and past St Stephen’s Green where we meet friends. Following a round of introductions and much handshaking, it was announced that a detour through the Iveagh Gardens was required before breakfast. Not wishing to commit treason by complaining, I happily followed.

Known as Dublin’s “Secret Garden”, the Iveagh Gardens are tucked away behind walls and largely free of lost-looking tourists. On this particular morning, apart from a lone artist sketching near the Count John McCormack statue, we pretty much had the place to ourselves. So we were free to happily discover rustic grottos, fountains, winding paths and sunken lawns all combined to create a peaceful retreat from the city outside. 

The gardens spent much of their history in private hands. One early owner, the 1st Earl of Clonmell, was apparently so keen to avoid mixing with the public that he connected the garden to his townhouse via a secret tunnel. Later, the Guinness family enclosed the grounds so they could entertain other nobles with lavish parties and drink beer presumably.

The gardens finally opened to the public in the early 1990’s. Which is just as well, otherwise I’d have had to walk a heck of a lot further for my breaky.

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Low Tide at Malahide

Daily Photo – Low Tide at Malahide

This is low tide at Malahide Beach which you can find on Dublin’s northern coastline. It is a wonderful two kilometres of pristine sand that transforms dramatically when the tide retreats. At the low tide the water reveals a fascinating pathway of seaweed, shallow rock pools and intricate patterns etched into the sand. 

Only a few hours previously I’d gotten off a long-haul, 12-hour flight from Hong Kong. Wanting to stay up as long as possible to reset the body clock, I went on a long walk to stay awake. I can’t remember how far I walked, but it was a decent enough way in the crisp Irish air.

The Corner College & Westmoreland Street in Dublin

Daily Photo – The Corner College & Westmoreland Street in Dublin

A while ago, while visiting Dublin, I found myself standing at one of the busiest and most historic intersections in the city. It was early evening, the crowds were streaming past in every direction, and the fading light had turned the sky a wonderful shade of blue. As photographers are prone to doing, I became completely distracted by the prospect of a good photo and paid very little attention to anything else going on around me, becoming completely absorbed in the spot where I was standing.

After all, this is the spot where Dubliners affectionately nicknamed a statue of poet Thomas Moore “The Meeting of the Waters”, entirely because the city decided to build an underground public toilet directly beneath his feet.

This is the spot where Victorian architects concluded Irish stone simply wasn’t dramatic enough, importing enormous blocks of pink Peterhead granite from Scotland just to make a bank corner appear suitably imposing.

This is the spot where deep underground vaults, once used to guard the gold and fortunes of the Provincial Bank, were later cleared out and transformed into a cocktail bar, allowing hotel guests to sip craft drinks within thick subterranean stone walls.

This is the spot where 18th-century planners from the Wide Streets Commission demolished a tangled maze of medieval lanes, deliberately carving out a grand triangular space so wealthy pedestrians could enjoy a better view of the parliament buildings.

This is the spot where millions of hurried commuters, confused tourists and perpetually late students have gathered for generations, mostly unaware they are walking directly above the long-buried course of the ancient Poddle River as it quietly makes its way towards the River Liffey.

And this is the spot where, while attempting to photograph the evening light over College Green, I became so absorbed in setting up my camera and tripod that I wandered off with my wife’s phone and wallet, leaving her stranded in the middle of Dublin’s rush-hour crowds wondering where on earth I’d disappeared to.

Fortunately, after a brief and entirely justified telling-off beside the Thomas Moore statue that included the phrase, “Where the hell have you been?”, the matter was settled in the traditional Irish fashion: with a visit to the nearest pub.

Feeding Pigeons In St Stephen’s Green

Daily Photo – Feeding pigeons in St Stephen’s Green

Amongst the jigsaw puzzle streets of Dublin that twist and turn across the city, you’ll find St Stephen’s Green. Within St Stephen’s Green, I found a man called Daniel. The few items that he was carrying with him were carefully placed on a park bench while he chatted to anyone who would stop by to talk. He was polite and friendly and spoke in a gravelly tone that told of a less than comfortable life on the streets of Dublin. He spoke of having many favourite spots in the city centre but this spot was by far his favourite. Manly because of how peaceful it is and the calmness of the place. Then just as he spoke they arrived, pigeons. Lots and lots of pigeons.

It turns out that Daniel works for one of the homeless shelters in Dublin. Collecting money and donations, along with doing other ‘odds and ends’ that need to be done. But, what he really likes to do is feed the pigeons. As he threw seed out for them and gently poured it into the hands of strangers who stopped, the pigeons were quick to find the food source. In an instant, three to five pigeons were on heads, shoulders and arms, gently pecking. Suddenly, as quickly as they had arrived they were off into the sky. They swooped in a massive loop before landing in exactly the same spot and continuing their hunt for food.

Waiting For Buses Near Trinity College

So, I’ve decided to make a few changes to the layout of this here blog. If things seem to have changed dramatically next time you visit, it’s all part of a master plan. Hopefully (with fingers crossed🤞), the photos with appear larger on most devices with a change in size to the titles as well. I hope you enjoy.

Don’t forget you can click on the catergory names above each post to see more photos related to that place. For example, you can give it ago here it Dublin 🇮🇪.


Daily Photo – Waiting for buses near Trinity College

I stumbled across this photo while looking for something completely different. I took it one evening when I was heading across Dublin to Tara Street Station. From memory, I’d come from O’Connell Street via one of the bridges that cross the River Liffey when, in heavy traffic, I came across the Thomas Moore statue just as the evening sky was turning a lovely bluish-purple.

St Stephens Green in Dublin

Daily Photo – St Stephens Green in Dublin

This is St Stephens Green, a few days after Christmas on a chilly Dublin afternoon. It almost seems impossible to believe it wasn’t always the manicured Victorian park it is today.  In the 17th century, the area was used as land for grazing livestock. It then became a popular dueling spot during the 18th century as men would settle disputes with pistols at dawn in the park. Around this time, public executions including hangings were held in the area while in more recent times the park featured a statue of King George II that had stood since 1758. That was, until it was blown up the day after the coronation of George VI by Irish Republicans in 1937 

Falls Curfew 1970

Here’s another photo from my phone, I’d forgotten all about it. I took this in Belfast while on a Black Taxi Tour through some of the city’s historic peace lines and murals. It was both a surreal and profound expereince.

Daily Photo – The Battle of the Falls

When I was growing up, I couldn’t tell you what all the troubles in Northern Island were about, all I knew was that there were two groups of people who were very angry with each other. This much I was certain about, mainly due to the fact that every so often a news item would appear on television which featured things being blown-up, people getting shot at and lots and lots of fighting. What started all this? Well, I just couldn’t say, but boy did they seem to dislike each other. 

So, a number of years later (quite a few actually), when I found myself in Belfast, I took the opportunity to do a Black Taxi Tour. I’d been reliably informed that it was a fascinating way to see many of the historic sites in Belfast that featured in the violent clashes between the British Army and the Provisional IRA. To which, I have to say, it was one of the most eye opening tours I’ve ever done. If you’re ever in Belfast, I’d advise doing a Black Taxi Tour, it really is a fascinating few hours. 

It was on this tour that we passed through the Falls district where the Falls Curfew took place. Until that time, I didn’t know what the The Falls Curfew or The Battle of the Falls was. Thus I discovered on a rainy day in Belfast that the Battle of the Falls was a violent clash in July 1970 in Belfast, Northern Ireland, between the British Army and the Provisional IRA in the nationalist Falls Road area. Triggered by an arms search, the army imposed a curfew and launched a large-scale operation, sparking intense gun battles. Four civilians were killed, and hundreds were injured. The incident deepened mistrust between the Catholic community and the British Army, escalating tensions during the early troubles.

The Ship of Dreams

Under the Hull

You didn’t need an alarm clock in Belfast when the Titanic was being built. The sound of footsteps on pathment with thousands of workers heading to the shipyards would have been enough to wake the city. 

But the story of the Titanic is much more complicated than being a simple story about a ship. It’s a story of a love affair, about hopes and dreams, death and survival, of passion, of lust, of beauty, greed, wealth, vision and a promise of a golden age yet to come. It’s a tale of love between a ship, the city it was built in, the people that built her and the families that watched it grow into the sky at the Harland & Wolf shipyard. It’s a Belfast love story.

It makes you realise we don’t always know the scale of the things we’re standing next to — only how small they make us feel.

Howth & The Baily Lighthouse

Howth Peninsula and the Baily Lighthouse

In Ireland, while making my way around various points, I stopped off at Howth Head. Located northeast of Dublin, Howth sits on a peninsula and has some wonderful coastal walking trails. One of which takes you past The Baily Lighthouse which has had a signal light shining from it in some way shape or form for over three hundred and fifty years. Just think about that for a second – three hundred and fifty years, that’s an awfully long time! In fact, the first light signal was built on the point near Howth in 1667 and was replaced by the Baily Lighthouse 1814. With multiple tracks to choose from, I spent a few hours strolling some of the various coastal paths which certainly have impressive views. I only wish I had more time to explore them. However, as the afternoon ran on and I became short of time, I realised I hadn’t allowed myself enough time to actually make it to the lighthouse, so I returned to Howth in search of a pint of Guinness to imagine what it might look like.

Molly Malone Statue

The Molly Malone Statue in Dublin

While walking the streets of Dublin’s fair city, I turned a corner onto Church Lane where I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone. Approaching the statue of the famous young lady and her cart, I joined a small crowd of people who were, like me, spending a few minutes taking in the statue before moving on with their day. So, my question is this. Is young Molly really dressed appropriately to be pushing a wheelbarrow filled with Cockles and Mussels through narrow, cobblestone streets? I would have thought a low cut dress wouldn’t have been the most practical of garments to be wearing, but then again, maybe I’m showing my age. Or, maybe it’s one of those things that us males simply don’t understand. Far be it for me to be giving out fashion advice to ladies, after all I can’t even go shopping for trousers or shirts without needing some sort of female fashion consultant or advisory group to oversee my choices. However, if people want to make statues of well endowed ladies in low cut tops, who am I to argue!

The Attempted Assassination of Benito Mussolini

Merrion Square North in Dublin

Of course, Oscar Wilde wasn’t the only famous resident of Merrion Square. The area has had many notable residents that include politicians, surgeons, judges, physicians, physicists, poets, playwrights, authors and fashion designers. It seems that the little plaque I found, placed by the Dublin Tourism office, wasn’t so rare after all. In fact, they appear quite regularly on the Georgian houses that surround the entire area, and it’s an impressive list. At various times, residents of Merrion Square have included Oscar Wilde, Sybil Connolly, Louise Kennedy, Sheridan Le Fanu, Daniel O’Connell, George Russell, William Yeats and Violet Gibson. Goodness me, what a street!

So, just who is Violet Gibson? Well, she is the lady who attempted to assassinate Italy’s Benito Mussolini in Rome on the 7th April, 1926. According to reports, having delivered a speech to the International Congress of Surgeons, Mussolini stepped outside into the fresh spring air where he was greeted by a large crowd, eager to catch a glimpse of the Italian Prime Minister. As he did so, Irish-born Violet pushed her way through the crowd, a revolver disguised in her black shawl. Then, as Mussolini walked into the crowd, saluting to his adoring supporters, he turned to his right to address a group of young men chanting his name. Suddenly, two gunshots rang out into the air and blood appeared on Mussolini’s face. A bullet having scraped his nose. As Violet went to fire a third time, the gun jammed, giving onlookers a chance to wrestle her to the ground before police arrived and took her into custody. In the preceding days and years the reason for the attempted assassination never became fully clear. Violet herself first claimed that she never shot him at all, then she did it for religious reasons and finally saying she didn’t know why she shot him. Eventually, Violet was deported back to England where she was declared insane and forced to live in an institution until her death in 1956. Whereas Mussolini lived for another 19 years, before he was forced to flee Italy in the closing months of World War II when he was shot and killed crossing the border into Switzerland.

Oscar Wilde House

Oscar Wilde House

I left St Stephen’s Green where among other things I had been watching squirrels and talking to a man named Daniel who was feeding pigeons. From there, I walked for some time, in no-particular direction taking in the streets of Dublin. Every so often, I would come to an intersection where I would decide on the direction I took by way of how interesting the street seemed. If nothing seemed appealing, I would simply head off along a path. This amused me for some time, until I came to an intersection where Merrion Street West, Merrion Street Lower, Merrion Street North and Clare Street all converged. Crossing the road I spied a helpful disc stuck to the side of a building by the Dublin Tourism office. Like most places around the world, they put these up on buildings to help people like me know that this building is worth taking note of. 

In this case the plaque read ‘Oscar Wilde 1854 – 1900’, Poet, Dramist, Wit, Lived Here 1855 – 1878.’ Taking a second to process this information, it suddenly dawned on me that I had inadvertently and quite by chance come across Merrion Square and the home of the one and only Oscar Wilde. While disappointed the building was closed, I was nevertheless pleased with my find. I took a minute to take in my surroundings as people pushed past me on the wintry afternoon, clearly annoyed at the valuable space I was taking up for no apparent reason. Making up my mind that I needed to digest this find a wee bit further, I immediately headed for the nearest pub, where I ordered a pint of Guinness and settled in to read about the life and times of the famous Oscar Wilde.

Belfast’s Finest

The Crown Liquor Saloon in Belfast

Once upon a time this Belfast pub had the reputation as one of the finest Victorian gin bars in the whole of the British Isles. Known as the Crown Liquor Saloon dating back to 1826 it features stained glass windows, mosaic tiling, an amazing carved ceiling. There are also 10 snugs that had gun metal plates for striking matches and an alarm bell system for patrons to alert staff for service. It’s a true masterpiece in bar design and architecture.

Corn Market In Belfast

Corn Market and Arthur Square in Belfast

If I went back to Belfast I would take a lot more photos than I did! It really is an interesting and fascinating city with something intriguing around every corner. On my wanderings I found this location, the corner of Corn Market and Arthur Square which is also an entrance to Victoria Square shopping mall and the location of the Spirit of Belfast art sculpture.  Personally, I couldn’t help but wonder about that street name, Corn Market. There must be some type of historical context to it.

The Bankers Bar In Dublin

The corner of Dame Lane & Trinity Street in Dublin.

While we are on the subject of photos from Dublin, this one I took while zigzagging through the city streets on a balmy evening in early January. I can’t remember where I was coming from, it might have been a restaurant. However, I do know I was heading for the Stags Head at the end of Dame Lane. A location where a tavern has existed in some shape or form since the 1780’s.

The Great Irish Hunger

The Irish Famine Sculptures of Dublin

This is another unpublished photo I came across. While in Dublin, I was walking alongside the River Liffey in the city’s Docklands on Custom House Quay. It was then that I came across the Irish Famine statues. An event that had a profound effect on Ireland and the worldwide Irish Community. There are a great many stories of the Great Irish Famine (1845-1849), many of which are hard to read due to the level of suffering that was involved.

One story is that of Rodger Cantwell and his family who survived the Irish famine that began in 1845. At the age of 30, living and working as farm laborer on the estate of Englisman George Fawcett in Toomevara, Tipperary, he and his wife Mary had come to rely on the potato as their main source of sustenance.

On a bleak October morning in 1845, after a prolonged period of heavy rain, he awoke to find a dense blue fog had settled over his fields. The air filled with the scent of decay. He was soon to discover, like his many neighbors, that his entire potato crop had been destroyed. For Rodger and his wife, the next few years were miserable. Often hungry, underweight and in ill health, the Indian corn and maize provided by the English as relief only managed to cause abdominal pain and diarrhea. To make matters worse, while the Irish farmers were starving, food exports to England that included oats, bacon, eggs, butter and beef continued. Eventually, many Irish farm laborers were dislodged from their homes by English landlords who hired crews to destroy their lodgings. Overnight, families found themselves starving and homeless. For people like Mary and Rodger, they joined the many waves of migrants fleeing starvation by immigrating overseas to places like America. 

Rodger and Mary Cantwell went on to settle in Rochester, New York before shifting to Milwaukee where they raised a family. Rodger eventually passed away at the age of 55 in 1870 while his wife Mary lived to the age 76. 

Following the Irish famine, between 1845 and 1855, the population of 8.2 million was reduced by one-third with 1 million dying of starvation and disease. Another 2 million emigrated to other countries. The Famine statues on Custom House Quay, are a somber and poignant commemoration of one of the most profound disasters in Irish history.

Daniel of Dublin

Daniel of Dublin

Amongst the jigsaw puzzle streets of Dublin that twist and turn across the city, you’ll find St Stephen’s Green. Within St Stephen’s Green, I found a man called Daniel. The few items that he was carrying with him were carefully placed on a park bench while he chatted to anyone who would stop by to talk. He was polite and friendly and spoke in a gravelly tone that told of a less than comfortable life on the streets of Dublin. He spoke of having many favourite spots in the city centre but this spot was by far his favourite. Manly because of how peaceful it is and the calmness of the place. Then just as he spoke they arrived, pigeons. Lots and lots of pigeons. 

It turns out that Daniel works for one of the homeless shelters in Dublin. Collecting money and donations, along with doing other ‘odds and ends’ that need to be done. But, what he really likes to do is feed the pigeons. As he threw seed out for them and gently poured it into the hands of strangers who stopped, the pigeons were quick to find the food source. In an instant, three to five pigeons were on heads, shoulders and arms, gently pecking. Suddenly, as quickly as they had arrived they were off into the sky. They swooped in a massive loop before landing in exactly the same spot and continuing their hunt for food.

Only then in the peace and beauty in Dublin’s St Stephen’s Green did he ask for a small donation.

Bray At Dusk

Bray at dusk – Buy 

I was heading to Clover Hill in South Bray, not that I really knew where that was. Even on the way there, I can’t say I was completely sure where I was going. I’d left Dublin by train and around 40 minutes later I arrived at the train station in Bray. From there, I walked down Quinsborough Road, which took me past the lovely Duncairn Terrace which was lined with multi-storey houses that were filled with lights and while Christmas decorations hung in the window. Further on, as Quinsborough Road turned into Herbert Road and the terraced houses turned into shops the last of the sunlight disappeared on what was an usually warm, winters evening.

The Crown Liquor Saloon

The Crown Liquor Saloon – Buy 

I went here on advice and I was really pleased I did. Known as ‘The Crown Bar’ but also the ‘Crown Liquor Saloon’, it’s one of the most famous pubs in Belfast. Dating back to 1826 and refurbished in 1885, it had the reputation as one of the finest Victorian gin palaces in the British Isles that features stained glass windows, mosaic tiling, an amazing carved ceiling. There are also 10 snugs that were made for the more reserved customer in the Victorian area that still has the original gun metal plates for striking matches and antique alarm bell system for alerting staff for service. It’s a true masterpiece in bar design and architecture.

Malahide In Ireland

Melahide Seawall in Ireland – Buy

Among the many things to like about Malahide in Dublin is the fact that it has a castle, it is very walkable and it has many wonderfully hospitable pubs. I spent a very lovely afternoon wandering past the seawall, along the beach and following the Coast Road to a point where I was no longer sure where I was. Then, I turned around and decided the walk back would be sufficient enough to have earned a beer at the delightful local tavern called Gibney’s. That’s the wonderful thing about Ireland, you either get rewarded with alcohol or food and often it’s both!

West Belfast Graffiti

West Belfast Graffiti – Buy

One of the best things to do in Belfast is to take a Black Cabs tour which takes you all over the city and to all the key sites of the 30 year civil war. Among the many stops on the tour are the murals which cover many parts of the city.