The Solitude of Central Otago

Daily Photo – The solitude of Central Otago

A few days later I left the shores of Lake Wakatipu and nearby conservation areas such as Mount Aspiring National Park. I headed in a roughly east-north-easterly direction for nearly two hours past towns like Clyde, Alexandra, and through the Ida Valley to Oturehua. I’d remembered about a general store called Gilchrist’s which is famous for being one of New Zealand’s oldest continually operating general stores. It still sells all sorts of quirky goods and is decorated with vintage advertising signs. I called in and wandered around. Afterwards and back in my car, I eventually rejoined state highway 83 where I was soon passing wide open- tussock covered plains that are a feature of the solitude of Central Otago.

The Paradise Forest

Daily Photo – The Paradise Forest

I hadn’t allowed myself nearly as much time to explore the beginning of the Routeburn Track as I would have liked, however the day was quickly marching on. I left the Routeburn and headed towards the Paradise Forest located in the Paradise Valley. I eventually reached Diamond Lake and from there, I continued on a way until I reached the Paradise Valley and the beech forest I had been aiming for. To fans of ‘The Lord of the Rings’ the forest is also known as Lothlorien, realm of the Elves.

The Routeburn

Daily Photo – The Routeburn

The next morning was bright, clear and I was heading in a northwesterly direction and the start of the Routeburn Track. Situated in Mount Aspiring National Park and having been a formal recreational tramping track since 1964, while I had no intention of walking the track I had made up my mind to at least wander along the track for a bit and have a wee lookaround.   

The scale of the Routeburn Track is relatively small by international standards (33 km / 20.5 miles). Yet, what it lacks in length, it makes up for in spectacular scenery, dramatic landscapes, lush forests, and panoramic mountain views. The track just wraps you up in tranquillity and overwhelms you with towering peaks and sweeping valleys. Walking the track you find yourself in a constant state of awe and amazement. I wish I’d allowed myself more time but alas time was against me.

Queenstown to Glenorchy

Daily Photo – Queenstown to Glenorchy

The road to Glenorchy followed the eastern edge of Lake Wakatipu for 46 kilometers (28 miles). Two or three times I stopped in laybys and lookouts and went to the edge to stand hopefully in the murky gloom, knowing there was a lake out there, sure that I’d get blown into it at any moment. The wind and rain was everywhere – and coming from every possible direction. It seemed impossible to find a location that was both sheltered and safely away from the road side as campervans, tour buses and recreational vehicles hurriedly came to and from various places on the lake, looking decidedly unimpressed with the weather. Some time previously, I had bought an overpriced cup of coffee from one of those roadside caravans, so I sat in my car sipping coffee waiting for a break in the weather. The nearby mountains echoed in the moody atmosphere while storm clouds continued to roll in. I’d really been looking forward to the drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy. I sat in my car listening to the wind continuing to whip up the lake, only adding to the sense of drama. For the life of me, I couldn’t decide if I was happy I was driving into it or not!

Hoopers Inlet Road – No Exit

Daily Photo – Hoopers Inlet Road – No Exit

I found this sign while out on the Otago Peninsula. There’s something about it that seems to say so much about rural life on the Otago Peninsula. It points to roads that feel like they’ve been forgotten about. Where there’s wind-bent grass, broken fence posts and long silences. Occasionally a local passes in a ute with a friendly wave, birds hover over ahead, and the weather changes quickly.

The Road Home

Daily Photo – The Road Home

There’s something quietly revealing about standing alone on a long, empty gravel road, rain clouds drifting overhead and snow dusting the distant ranges. It’s the kind of place that either makes you want to turn back quickly or stay a while. When a cool wind lifted my hat and sent it tumbling, I took it as a sign. I sat by a nearby boundary fence and paused for a bit. Besides, I had a flat tyre to deal with, and the boot wasn’t going to unpack itself.

The Kai Kart

Daily Photo – The Kai Kart

Not far from the ferry terminal in Oban, you’ll find the Kai Kart, quietly serving some of the best fish and chips in the country. There’s nothing fancy, just a caravan cooking great food as the sizzle of fresh blue cod, and the smell of salt fill the air. In fact, according to some reviewers it’s arguably the best fish & chips in the country. Plan for a bit of a line, bring some patience, and a taste for Oban hospitality. Good food, simply done.

Schist, Tussock & The Strath Taieri

Daily Photo – Schist, Tussock and The Strath Taieri

Out on the Strath Taieri, near Sutton Salt Lake, the wide open spaces feel like stepping into another world. Towers of schist rise from the golden tussock and dry shrub, scattered across a quiet plain. The sky stretches endlessly above, broken only by rolling clouds and the distant Rock and Pillar Range. There’s a stillness with time, shaped by sun, salt, and centuries of erosion. Out here you don’t come for noise or crowds, you come for the textures, the crunch underfoot, and the feeling of standing in sparse, open landscapes.

St Stephens Green in Dublin

Daily Photo – St Stephens Green in Dublin

This is St Stephens Green, a few days after Christmas on a chilly Dublin afternoon. It almost seems impossible to believe it wasn’t always the manicured Victorian park it is today.  In the 17th century, the area was used as land for grazing livestock. It then became a popular dueling spot during the 18th century as men would settle disputes with pistols at dawn in the park. Around this time, public executions including hangings were held in the area while in more recent times the park featured a statue of King George II that had stood since 1758. That was, until it was blown up the day after the coronation of George VI by Irish Republicans in 1937 

Swanston Street in Melbourne

Daily Photo – Ambling on Swanston Street in Melbourne

I like Melborune, partly because it is very walkable and easy to navigate thanks to all the bridges across the river, but mostly because of the trams. So, when I found myself with a day free of any planned activities, I spent the first part of the day riding trams to random locations I’d never been to before. Following that, I spent the rest of a very pleasant Melbourne day wandering its busy streets and narrow alleyways, admiring the Yarra River, its modern skyscrapers, historic architecture and bustling laneways.

It was while ambling along Swanston Street that I came across this lady who does the most colourful designs with vinyl records. I watched and chatted to her for about 10 minutes as she created new designs that would evolve right before your eyes.

Falls Curfew 1970

Here’s another photo from my phone, I’d forgotten all about it. I took this in Belfast while on a Black Taxi Tour through some of the city’s historic peace lines and murals. It was both a surreal and profound expereince.

Daily Photo – The Battle of the Falls

When I was growing up, I couldn’t tell you what all the troubles in Northern Island were about, all I knew was that there were two groups of people who were very angry with each other. This much I was certain about, mainly due to the fact that every so often a news item would appear on television which featured things being blown-up, people getting shot at and lots and lots of fighting. What started all this? Well, I just couldn’t say, but boy did they seem to dislike each other. 

So, a number of years later (quite a few actually), when I found myself in Belfast, I took the opportunity to do a Black Taxi Tour. I’d been reliably informed that it was a fascinating way to see many of the historic sites in Belfast that featured in the violent clashes between the British Army and the Provisional IRA. To which, I have to say, it was one of the most eye opening tours I’ve ever done. If you’re ever in Belfast, I’d advise doing a Black Taxi Tour, it really is a fascinating few hours. 

It was on this tour that we passed through the Falls district where the Falls Curfew took place. Until that time, I didn’t know what the The Falls Curfew or The Battle of the Falls was. Thus I discovered on a rainy day in Belfast that the Battle of the Falls was a violent clash in July 1970 in Belfast, Northern Ireland, between the British Army and the Provisional IRA in the nationalist Falls Road area. Triggered by an arms search, the army imposed a curfew and launched a large-scale operation, sparking intense gun battles. Four civilians were killed, and hundreds were injured. The incident deepened mistrust between the Catholic community and the British Army, escalating tensions during the early troubles.

Two Trees

Two Trees

The idea of simplicity is one that I find myself revisiting time and time again. This photo, Two Trees, came from that impulse—to strip things back, to sit with the bare essentials. Just earth, sky, and two trees holding space in their own quiet way. It felt like a kind of conversation between, nothing dramatic, but something stretched across the space between.

I’ve always been drawn to the structure of the landscape—lines etched by ploughs, long shadows, open skies. It’s tempting to fill a frame, but this time I left a lot out. I wanted room to breathe and to explore the space between the Two Trees. You can feel the emptiness, but also the balance. It reminds me that not everything needs to be explained.

Shrine of Remembrance, Brisbane

Shrine of Remembrance, Brisbane 

After leaving the edge of the Brisbane River, I wandered up onto Ann Street, the pace of the city quickening around me. I had planned a short detour through King George Square, but as I reached it, I realised Brisbane’s Shrine of Remembrance was nearby. Drawn by curiosity, I entered ANZAC Square, where sunlight filtered through the trees and danced on the classic Greek revival columns that guard the eternal flame, flickering gently in the stillness. I lingered there, absorbing the atmosphere of the ANZAC spirit. Eventually, the heat of the day began to settle me. In search of shade and refreshment, I crossed the street and found solace in a cold beer at The Grand Central Hotel.

Driving Through The Haka Valley

The choice seemed a little confusing.Fence post in The Hakataramea Valley

I spent the hours pre and post sunrise chasing interesting spots in the Hakataramea Valley. Tucked away in the Waimate District, the Hakataramea Valley sits at the foot of Kirkliston range in the South Island of New Zealand and is a wonderful spot. The Haka is a glorious location to be in the mornings, they can be unbelievably cold and have a deafening silence that seems to echo throughout the valley as the light appears over the Campbell Hills, bringing a new day to the surrounding ranges.

10 Places to Visit in The Catlins

The Catlins River

Located in the southeastern corner of the South Island, the Catlins are a truly amazing spot. It features dramatic seascapes, dense native forests, and hidden waterfalls. It’s a place where winding roads lead to a breathtaking view or a windswept beach. Here is a non-definitive list of ten places to visit in The Catlins. 

Purakaunui Falls – one of New Zealand’s most iconic waterfalls. 

McLean Falls – yet another of New Zealand’s most iconic waterfalls.  

Cathedral Caves – experience an amazing bush walk before arriving at an incredible natural feature.

Nugget Point – an iconic location with dramatic views of the coastline.

Catlins River – follow the track that follows the delightful river. 

Tautuku Beach – walk to the end of the beach and spend the day exploring the peninsula which includes shipwrecks and an old whaling station. 

Slope Point – the southernmost point of the South Island. 

Curio Bay – visit the wonderful petrified forest.

Surf at Kaka Point or Purakaunui Bay – some of the best surfing spots with good quality surf and long swell periods.

Waipapa Point – walk to the lighthouse and see the beautiful vistas of the coastline.

Checkout other images from The Catlins, right here-right now!

Lake Tekapo & The Church of the Good Shepherd

Lake Tekapo and the Church of the Good Shepherd

Not far from Mount Cook is Lake Tekapo. One of the most common questions regarding Lake Tekapo and other lakes from this region is: “Is it really that blue?” Well, the short answer is yes! I could give you a more detailed and scientific explanation involving fine rock particles and glaciers; however, sometimes it’s nice to not question things too much and simply accept them for what they are.

On the Road to Mount Cook

The road to Mount Cook

Here in the South Island, once you get into the MacKenzie Country, there are literally thousands of spots you can explore to take photos. Lake Ohau, Twizel, Lake Tekapo, Mount Dobson, and Lake Pukaki are just some of the areas you could spend weeks in and never run out of subject matter—and I haven’t even mentioned Mount Cook yet. Heck, on the way to Mount Cook you can even simply stand in the middle of the road and get interesting photos!

The Ship of Dreams

Under the Hull

You didn’t need an alarm clock in Belfast when the Titanic was being built. The sound of footsteps on pathment with thousands of workers heading to the shipyards would have been enough to wake the city. 

But the story of the Titanic is much more complicated than being a simple story about a ship. It’s a story of a love affair, about hopes and dreams, death and survival, of passion, of lust, of beauty, greed, wealth, vision and a promise of a golden age yet to come. It’s a tale of love between a ship, the city it was built in, the people that built her and the families that watched it grow into the sky at the Harland & Wolf shipyard. It’s a Belfast love story.

It makes you realise we don’t always know the scale of the things we’re standing next to — only how small they make us feel.

War & Peace

The Shotover River n the Queenstown Lakes District

Let me assure you of this much (and it’s absolutely true)—only in the Queenstown Lakes District could you drive through traffic that was so insanely stupid and chaotic, yet be surrounded by scenery that was so breathtaking it could be the backdrop for a Hollywood movie. There I was, sitting in a seemingly endless procession of cars, buses, boats, camper vans, trucks, and motorbikes—being overtaken by grandparents with walkers out for an afternoon stroll, slowly developing a healthy dose of road rage as my knuckles turned white from gripping the steering wheel. And yet, all the while, I was encircled by majestic mountain peaks that reached up into the sky and stretched beyond the horizon, and crystal-clear blue lakes that sparkled and shone in the sunlight. Nowhere else had I ever found a situation that was such a shambles—and so spectacular—all at the same time.

The Taieri Gorge Railway

The Taieri Gorge Railway carriages at Middlemarch

I had driven out to Middlemarch, a small town nestled in the heart of Otago’s Strath Taieri region- intent on finding something for lunch. It was then, a few blocks from the main road that I found the town’s railway station. The Taieri Gorge Railway carriages stood silent on the tracks, their once vibrant hues faded from the sun. The windows were clouded with dust, no longer pulsing with life and ferrying passengers through the dramatic Otago landscape. As I wandered alongside the idle train, long shadows were cast in the afternoon light, the air crisp with the faint scent of rust and aged wood. In that quiet moment, I could help but ponder what railway’s have become.

Sutton Salt Lake

Sutton Salt Lake

The next day I drove to Sutton, through scenery that looked like the backdrop of a Hollywood movie-mainly because it was. The vast, rolling hills covered in golden tussock grass with scattered schist rock were one of the filming locations for Peter Jackson’s epic trilogy ‘The Hobbit’. But I wasn’t there to see film locations, I was in the area to visit New Zealand’s only inland salt lake at Sutton which sits in a enclosed shallow basin and is accessible via a 3.5 kilometre walking track. 

Upon arrival. I discovered the car park empty and no sign of human activity on the trail. Please by this, I set off through the tussock to Sutton Salt Lake

Tales From Mount Cook

Mount Cook & Lake Pukaki

High on Mount Cook, in the cold, early hours of Saturday 3rd December 1910, Australian mountaineer Freda du Faur and her companions Peter and Alec Graham started their final ascent on the summit. 

Born and raised in Sydney, Freda taught herself to rock climb and pursued it with a passion. In 1906, at the age of 24, she summered in New Zealand and after seeing images of Mount Cook became determined to climb it. She then spent the years between 1908 and 1910 preparing for her ascent on the peak. So, on Saturday 3rd December 1910, accompanied with two companions, Freda du Faur became the first woman to successfully climb Mount Cook.

Oban on Stewart Island

Dawn over Halfmoon Bay

The great thing about small towns is that they are so intensely quiet in the early morning hours. Oban, on Stewart Island is no exception. I had risen early to photograph the sunrise and with that task ticked off my list, I went down into the town. Usually in those predawn hours I see at least one other person, foolish enough as myself to be up at such time. But, on this occasion I didn’t see a single soul. I wandered the empty streets as the first hints of daylight crept in, it was almost as if I had the town all to myself. It felt like a world apart—silent, peaceful, and entirely my own.

Sutton Railway Station

Sutton Railway Station

These days, the Sutton railway station is a sleepy relic, a station without a train, with nothing but the wind for company. Once a bustling wee hub, a place where locals from the Strath Taieri area came and went on their way to Dunedin. Step inside (or rather, peer through the old door), and you’ll find names scratched into the timber—some dating back nearly to the turn of the century. Among the scrawls left behind by idle hands are the initials of soldiers who once passed through, including one Arthur Charles Peat.

Arthur was 21 when he left Sutton in late 1914, off to do his bit for ‘The Great War.’ He enlisted with the Otago Infantry Battalion on the 13th of December and was promptly packed onto the HMS Tahiti, bound for Egypt. In early April, somewhere on the Red Sea, he wrote to his brother Jack, because that’s what one did in 1914 when one was about to do something life-altering and potentially catastrophic—one wrote home, preferably before seasickness set in. He described three days at sea before spotting the Suez Canal, the excitement of saluting passing ships, and the thrill of buying fruit from enterprising locals. Then came the train ride through the canal, followed by a jaunt into Cairo, where he had a look at the sights but only glimpsed the pyramids from a distance—an experience not unlike visiting Paris and only seeing the Eiffel Tower reflected in a puddle. He ended the letter in a hurry, promising to write more next time, presumably because the postman was already tapping his foot.

That next letter never came. Arthur and the Otago Infantry Battalion were shipped off to Gallipoli, where things quickly went from ‘unpleasant’ to ‘a complete and utter disaster.’ On the 7th of August, 1915, at Chunuk Bair, Arthur Charles Peat was killed in action. His name, along with the others who never returned, remains etched into the wood at Sutton station—a quiet reminder of lives that passed through, bound for places they would never see again.

Eichardt’s in Queenstown

Eichardt’s in Queenstown

It’s Welshman William Gilbert Rees who we can thank (or, depending on your views on tourist hotspots, quietly curse) for Queentown. A sheep farmer who arrived in the South Island of New Zealand via New South Wales in Australia, he came across the present day location of Queenstown while out searching for farm land with fellow explorer Nicholas von Tunzelmann (who seems largely forgotten about). 

Rees then settled on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, established a sheep farm and happily went about life in the picturesque location. Until, gold was discovered in November 1862. One moment, Queenstown was a peaceful, sheep-filled paradise; the next, it was swarming with fortune-seekers who, judging by the speed of their arrival, had developed a sixth sense for gold. From that point onwards, all hell broke loose! The calm, tranquil shores of Queenstown became a rough shantytown that was overrun with miners. Rees, who presumably just wanted a quiet life tending his sheep, found himself in charge of an impromptu boomtown filled with dishevelled miners and questionable hygiene. To keep up with the boom, Rees converted his woolshed into a hotel, calling it the Queen’s Arms. He then went into partnership with Albert Eichardt who eventually changed the hotel’s name to Eichardt’s Queen’s Arms and then later simply Eichardt’s Private Hotel. So, when the owner’s say ‘so much of the local history has taken place in this spot’ they’re not exaggerating. Although, I wonder what Nicholas von Tunzelmann thinks of all this?

Waterfalls, Walks & The Catlins

The Purakanui Falls

From Nugget Point I drove 37 kilometres southwest to Purakaunui Falls. A trip that took roughly 40 minutes and another 10 minutes of walking along a short, but well maintained bush track that terminated at the iconic falls. Located on the Purakanui River, the falls cascade over three tiers, creating a stunning, wide and spectacular waterfall that stands over 20 metres high. Adding to the charm is the surrounding lush native podocarp forest that holds its own tranquil beauty, creating a popular tourist destination for travelers exploring the wondrous natural beauty of The Catlins.

Christopher Columbus & The Round Earth Theory.

Nugget Point in The Catlins

I turned off the Southern Scenic Route and headed towards Kapa Point and Molyneux Bay, eventually arriving at Nugget Point. I parked the car between two campervans (do I ever hate campervans!) and began the 20 minute walk to Nugget Point and the lighthouse. 

The lighthouse is situated at the end of a track that sits an impressive 76 metres above the sea. A desolate and windswept headland on the Catlins coast. It’s a truly spectacular view, however I don’t think I’ve ever been there when it hasn’t been at least a tad windy. On this occasion, the breeze could best be described as lively and vigorous. As I made my way to the lighthouse and accompanying viewing area, the wind pounded the point in surges. At first, the platform was surprisingly empty, gradually more people arrived and squeezed onto the tiny viewing area. This forced me to take in the scenic beauty while being uncomfortably close to complete strangers. 

On one side of me were a group of Asian tourists who, judging by all the pointing were having what appeared to be a very heated discussion about shoes! On the other was a man who was giving a history lesson to his son. He was explaining that once, everyone believed that earth was flat and when an explorer named Christopher Columbus set sail, everyone feared he would sail off the edge of the world.  I wanted to interject and state this was a factually incorrect piece of history that has been repeatedly rolled out so often over the years that people now just view it as gospel. In fact, it is completely wrong! When Christopher Columbus set sail in 1492, not only did he know the earth was round, people had done so for hundreds of years. In fact, philosophers as far back as Pythagoras and Aristotle had already proven through maths and science that the earth was indeed a sphere. So, when Christopher Columbus set sail from Spain to find an all-water route to Asia, the only thing he was endangered of, was forgetting the bread and milk on the way home!