#dailyat6am, #fromtheroad, Hindon, South Island, Wild Horses

The Town That Vanished: On the Trail of Gold in Hindon

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Daily Photo – Hindon & The Silverpeaks

I spent a good few hours of the afternoon in Hindon for two reasons. Firstly, I couldn’t remember the last time I’d visited the place, and a strenuous adventure along unpaved, steep, narrow, and winding roads that featured a shared road-and-rail bridge with sharp bends and steep drop-offs  seemed just the thing.

My second, and more compelling, reason for going was that I wanted to see the settlement where nearly 1,200 miners once swarmed the gullies and terraces in the hope of striking it rich. After Gabriel Reid discovered gold in a small gully near the Otago town of Lawrence in 1861, everyone went absolutely bonkers. Within weeks, the population of Dunedin skyrocketed as news of his discovery spread and hopeful prospectors poured into the newly found goldfields. One of the settlements that sprang up almost overnight was a small township in the Silverpeaks range near Dunedin, called Hindon. However, as with most gold rushes, once the gold ran out, the miners quickly moved on to new fields, while the real fortunes were made by the merchants selling shovels, the innkeepers charging exorbitant fees for a night’s rest, and those who realised that gold is often easier to extract from the desperate than from the earth itself.

#dailyat6am, Dunedin, New Zealand, South Island, Wild Horses

Dunedin Before Dawn

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Daily Photo – Dunedin Before Dawn

I was up early as a special kind of calm settled over Dunedin, just before sunrise. The city hadn’t quite woken up. The streets were mostly empty, the air sharp, and the lights glowed against a soft violet sky. It was that minute, that hour, that moment when night hadn’t entirely let go, and day hadn’t quite begun.

Down the main street, baristas, bakers, couriers, and delivery vans were starting to stir, streaks of light cutting through the not-yet-congested roads – but the alleyways remained silent. The rest of the city slumbered behind the darkened windows of the grand old buildings which watched in silence, their stone façades catching the faint promise of dawn.

In a city known for its energy and eccentricity, there was a quiet beauty. It was almost as if the city itself paused to breathe, waiting for the first light to spill over the hills and touch its buildings. And for a brief second, the city dreamed.

#dailyat6am, Dunedin, New Zealand, Otago Peninsula, South Island, Wild Horses

The Magnificent Boulder Beach

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Daily Photo – The Magnificent Boulder Beach

Boulder Beach, the place is magnificent. A rugged, windswept slice of South Island coastline that looks as though it hasn’t seen a nice promenade in its entire geological existence. No neat boardwalks, no conveniently placed benches. Just raw, elemental beauty and a sense that the wind has been in charge here for quite some time. The beach itself is a glorious jumble of colossal volcanic stones and dark boulders that clearly took a fair bit of tectonic enthusiasm to create. Between them are carefully placed pockets of fine sand, that arrived on wind and next waves. It’s beautiful, but let’s be honest, you wouldn’t want to jog on it.

More importantly, this wild stretch of coast is a vital sanctuary for the yellow-eyed penguin, or Hoiho, a bird so rare it seems perpetually startled by its own continued existence. The Department of Conservation, bless their cotton socks, does a sterling job protecting them, closing off parts of the area for months at a time while the penguins get on with the serious business of breeding. If you’re lucky enough to visit outside of those times, it’s a wonderful reminder of how nature can still write its own rules. You might spot a Hoiho making its slightly awkward way up the sand, or perhaps find yourself the subject of a disapproving glare from a resident sea lion. Best advice: keep your distance, there’s nothing quite like being told off by a several-hundred-kilo local to remind you who really owns the beach.

It’s a place that feels defiantly untamed, as if it’s politely declined every human attempt to tidy it up. And thank goodness for that. Because every so often, it’s good to stand somewhere that reminds you that nature, even here at the far edge of the world, remains profoundly and beautifully unmanageable.

#dailyat6am, Dunedin, Ōtepoti, South Island, Travel, Wild Horses

Observation Point in Port Chalmers

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Daily Photo – Observation Point in Port Chalmers

If there’s one thing to be discovered at Observation Point in Port Chalmers, it’s the view. I know that might sound a little obvious, but it’s the very view that the famous New Zealand artist Ralph Hotere drew inspiration from – and it’s amazing! It’s not hard to see why he loved it so much, or why he fought so fiercely to keep it.

In the 1970s, Hotere bought a four-room cottage near Observation Point and turned it into his first studio, transforming it quite a bit along the way. When a near-derelict stable next door came up for sale, he was desperate to get hold of it. Not only were the stables rumoured to have once housed Captain Robert Scott’s ponies on their way to Antarctica, but they also offered stunning views right down Otago Harbour – and they did not disappoint.

Once settled, Hotere produced some of his most famous works there and was content enough until the early 1990s, when Port Otago moved to reclaim the land for a port extension. Logging exports to Japan were booming, and to keep up with demand, the port needed to expand its operations, which meant they needed Hotere’s land. The problem was, he wasn’t about to move. What followed was a long, very public dispute between the artist, local authorities, and the community. Eventually, though, Hotere reluctantly agreed to sell, allowing the port’s expansion project to finally go ahead.

When he gave in, many who had supported him felt a way of disappointment. No one’s entirely sure what prompted his change of mind, perhaps he simply grew tired of the fight and decided to move on. Whatever the reason, when the dust settled, Hotere donated the proceeds from the sale to the Frances Hodgkins Fellowship Trust Fund. Today, the Hotere Garden Oputae stands on the site where his studio once was. It opened in 2005, marking the return of four of his sculptures to the hill that inspired him for so many years.

Invercargill, South Island, Travel, Wild Horses

H&J Smith’s in Invercargill

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Daily Photo – H&J Smith’s in Invercargill

How many department stores can claim to be loved? Not just used, or remembered fondly, but genuinely loved. Down in Invercargill, H&J Smith’s managed it. For more than a century, this grand old shop sat on the corner of Tay and Kelvin Streets like a friendly old uncle, a little formal, slightly out of fashion, but always there when you needed a decent raincoat or a set of sheets.

Founded in 1900 by siblings Helen and John Smith, it began as a drapery and somehow grew into a Southland institution. Generations of locals bought their school uniforms, wedding gifts, and first suits under its roof. It even had a tearoom called ‘The Copper Kettle’, where you could order a sandwich and feel like you’d stepped into 1957.

When the store finally closed its doors in 2023, after 123 years, it wasn’t just a sale that ended, it was a chapter. People stood on the footpath to say goodbye, as if farewelling an old friend who’d seen them through every season and in some ways, I guess they were!

#dailyat6am, Oamaru, South Island, Travel, Travels in small-town New Zealand, Wild Horses

Oamaru’s Heritage Precinct

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Daily Photo – Oamaru’s Heritage Precinct

I’d driven up to Oamaru for the day and, as always, ended up wandering through the town’s remarkable heritage precinct. It’s one of those places that makes you feel as though you’ve stepped into another century, all creamy limestone facades, iron railings, and a faint whiff of coal smoke in the imagination.

Eventually, I found myself on Harbour Street, the heart of it all, and honestly, it was just lovely. The buildings stood shoulder to shoulder, each one a relic from the town’s glory days, now home to art galleries, antique shops, and cafés that sell tea in mismatched china.

But here’s what I don’t understand: why on earth is the street still open to traffic? It’s narrow, charming, and practically begging to be pedestrian-only. Nothing quite spoils the mood of admiring Victorian architecture like dodging SUVs and utes crawling past at two kilometres an hour. It made no sense at all, I pondered this for some time. Eventually giving up and headed for an Art Gallery then maybe a cup of coffee and biscuit.

Lake Wanaka, South Island, Wanaka, Wild Horses

Wanaka Gold

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Daily Photo – Wanaka Gold

I took this photo a few summers ago while spending a few days in Wanaka. I was there between Christmas and New Year, at that in-between moment when the Christmas celebrations had begun to fade and everyone’s attention was shifting toward welcoming the year ahead. The town was overrun with holiday energy, families picnicking by the lake, people soaking up the summer sun, and travellers passing through.

Central Otago, Clyde, South Island, Wild Horses

Driving Through Clyde

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More from Clyde

Don’t forget you can click on the catergory names above each post to see more photos related to that place. For example, you can give it ago here with Clyde or Central Otago.

Daily Photo – Driving Through Clyde

I’d spent several days in Central Otago, in and around the Kawarau Gorge area, and on the way home, on a whim, I called in at the Clyde Dam lookout. It was at that point that I spotted this view of the Clutha River winding its way under the Clyde Bridge with the stark, barren hillside beyond the far away town of Alexandra only adding to the and a sense of emptiness and seclusion that is such a feature of  this area of the country. Fortunately, I had plenty of time on my hands, so I detoured down into the town of Clyde and had a lovely wander around for half an hour or so in the afternoon sun. 

Dunedin, Ōtepoti, South Island, Wild Horses

The Organ Pipes

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Daily Photo – The Organ Pipes

Let’s rewind the clock around 15 million years, and we’d find ourselves in a very different version of Dunedin. For starters, the scenery would be dominated by a restless volcano that had a habit of erupting with little warning. During one of its more dramatic outbursts, lava spilled out across the land. As it cooled, it contracted and cracked, creating striking hexagonal basalt columns. These natural formations can still be seen today in spots like Lawyers Head, Blackhead, and the Pyramids at Okia Reserve on the Otago Peninsula. Over the course of millions of years, wind, rain, and time itself have sculpted the land, slowly shaping features like the Organ Pipes into the rugged forms we now recognise, and many of us enjoy clambering over on a sunny afternoon.

Central Otago, Ida Valley, South Island, Wild Horses

The Solitude of Central Otago

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Daily Photo – The solitude of Central Otago

A few days later I left the shores of Lake Wakatipu and nearby conservation areas such as Mount Aspiring National Park. I headed in a roughly east-north-easterly direction for nearly two hours past towns like Clyde, Alexandra, and through the Ida Valley to Oturehua. I’d remembered about a general store called Gilchrist’s which is famous for being one of New Zealand’s oldest continually operating general stores. It still sells all sorts of quirky goods and is decorated with vintage advertising signs. I called in and wandered around. Afterwards and back in my car, I eventually rejoined state highway 83 where I was soon passing wide open- tussock covered plains that are a feature of the solitude of Central Otago.

Glenorchy, Queenstown-Lakes District, South Island, Wild Horses

The Glenorchy Pier

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Daily Photo – The Glenorchy Pier

I arrived in Glenorchy and parked at the information centre. I’d hoped to have a rummage through the brochures and maps that I assumed would be on display, but I was later than expected and I found to my annoyance that it was already closed. Instead, I went for a wander around the nearby streets, looking for nothing in-particular. Afterwards, I ambled down to the lake, perhaps 400 metres away (500 yards) and onto the wharf that stretched out over the lake. The place was quieter than I’d been expecting and apart from the occasional campervan passing by, I mostly had the place to myself. I strolled to the end of the pier and stood looking out across the lake. The cold front that had earlier brought wind and rain had passed, leaving a moody, atmospheric feeling hanging over the town and lake as the daylight vanished. It was all very lovely in a mirky, gloomy sort of away. 

Feeling content, I started to make my way back to my car when it suddenly dawned on me that I hadn’t yet found a place to stay. On the walk down to the lake I remembered seeing a sign for a Lodge with the word ‘vacancies’ in large letters, I made my way there now and hoped they’d be both a bar and restaurant, as it occurred to me I was really rather hungry!

Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown-Lakes District, South Island, Travel, Wild Horses

Queenstown to Glenorchy

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Daily Photo – Queenstown to Glenorchy

The road to Glenorchy followed the eastern edge of Lake Wakatipu for 46 kilometers (28 miles). Two or three times I stopped in laybys and lookouts and went to the edge to stand hopefully in the murky gloom, knowing there was a lake out there, sure that I’d get blown into it at any moment. The wind and rain was everywhere – and coming from every possible direction. It seemed impossible to find a location that was both sheltered and safely away from the road side as campervans, tour buses and recreational vehicles hurriedly came to and from various places on the lake, looking decidedly unimpressed with the weather. Some time previously, I had bought an overpriced cup of coffee from one of those roadside caravans, so I sat in my car sipping coffee waiting for a break in the weather. The nearby mountains echoed in the moody atmosphere while storm clouds continued to roll in. I’d really been looking forward to the drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy. I sat in my car listening to the wind continuing to whip up the lake, only adding to the sense of drama. For the life of me, I couldn’t decide if I was happy I was driving into it or not!

Central Otago, South Island, St Bathans, Travel, Wild Horses

The Road Home

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Daily Photo – The Road Home

There’s something quietly revealing about standing alone on a long, empty gravel road, rain clouds drifting overhead and snow dusting the distant ranges. It’s the kind of place that either makes you want to turn back quickly or stay a while. When a cool wind lifted my hat and sent it tumbling, I took it as a sign. I sat by a nearby boundary fence and paused for a bit. Besides, I had a flat tyre to deal with, and the boot wasn’t going to unpack itself.

Invercargill, South Island, Southland, Wild Horses

Invercargill Town Hall & Theatre

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Daily Photo – Invercargill Town Hall & Theatre

Invercargill became a city on the 1st March, 1930. I know this because I read the plaque that was in the Town Hall. I also discovered that when both a new Town Hall and Theatre was needed, local officials decided to combine the two projects – not without controversy. In some quarters, the building of a theatre was viewed as sinful due to religious beliefs while others felt that a theatre should be funded from private investment, not public money. Nevertheless the project went ahead and was officially opened in November of 1906.

Dunedin, Ōtepoti, South Island, Wild Horses

Dunedin’s Quiet Moments: A Waterfront Evening

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Dunedin waterfront at dusk

I ambled through the streets until I came to a section of wharf called the Steamer Basin. Located right beside the railway lines on the eastern edge of the main business district, it was here that cargo was once loaded, unloaded and passed through the Customs Department Wharf Office. Thus, showing the importance of the area as a transit point between markets in the first decade of the twentieth century. 

For some time, the local city council has been developing this area by very strategically doing nothing at all. A strategy that successive councils have had in place for sometime now, and appears to be going according to plan. About every five to eight years a new, grand design is unveiled to the public which is always received with much oohing and ahhing, before eventually getting forgotten about and disappearing into the annals of time. 

The most recent push to redevelop the waterfront happened in 2017 when a group of notable locals got together to produce blueprints and 3D modelling that would transform the Steamer Basin into a stunning array of buildings and spaces over a span of thirty years. The designs included public spaces, Ecotourism office space, cafes, a Marine Research Centre and Aquarium, walkways, cycleways, docks, exhibition and office spaces, apartments, a luxury Hotel and a Culture Centre. All done in a futuristic space-age design and finished with a foot bridge linking the waterfront to the city. Unfortunately, after the initial enthusiasm wore off, the plans floundered, the whole project was put in the ‘too-hard basket’ and life moved on. Leaving the Steamer Basin to look as it always does, a little past it’s best 

I thought about this as I walked around and looked across the water to where a Marine Research Centre and Aquarium could now be standing. If that plan had gone ahead, we’d be eight years into a thirty year plan. I ambled a little further in the fading afternoon. Still, the people fishing seemed happy, and at least there’s a lovely pontoon that can fit up to twelve people on it.

Aotearoa, Milton, South Island, South Otago, Wild Horses

Milton

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Tokomairiro Presbyterian Church

The thing about small towns in New Zealand is—they really are just that: small towns. I don’t mean that in a mean, rude, or malicious way. I simply mean that’s what they are. Where once they may have been thriving hubs of industry with a lot going on, most of those big industries have long since moved. These days, apart from being home to people going about their daily lives, many of these towns have become more like places to pass through or maybe stop for a spot of lunch.

Take the small South Island town of Milton. I’m not saying Milton is a bad place, far from it. I quite like the town. I’ve stopped there many times and enjoyed wandering up and down the main street. But here’s the thing: with tourists flocking to the South Island to go bungy jumping, skiing, or hiking in the wilderness, strolling around Milton’s main street isn’t likely to make anyone’s top ten list.

Yet, I quite like wandering in small towns. There’s something rather splendid about ambling through with no particular purpose, then stumbling across a tearoom to rest for a while before continuing the journey. I hope they last for a long time to come.

South Island, The Catlins, The Catlins River, Travel, Wild Horses

10 Places to Visit in The Catlins

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The Catlins River

Located in the southeastern corner of the South Island, the Catlins are a truly amazing spot. It features dramatic seascapes, dense native forests, and hidden waterfalls. It’s a place where winding roads lead to a breathtaking view or a windswept beach. Here is a non-definitive list of ten places to visit in The Catlins. 

Purakaunui Falls – one of New Zealand’s most iconic waterfalls. 

McLean Falls – yet another of New Zealand’s most iconic waterfalls.  

Cathedral Caves – experience an amazing bush walk before arriving at an incredible natural feature.

Nugget Point – an iconic location with dramatic views of the coastline.

Catlins River – follow the track that follows the delightful river. 

Tautuku Beach – walk to the end of the beach and spend the day exploring the peninsula which includes shipwrecks and an old whaling station. 

Slope Point – the southernmost point of the South Island. 

Curio Bay – visit the wonderful petrified forest.

Surf at Kaka Point or Purakaunui Bay – some of the best surfing spots with good quality surf and long swell periods.

Waipapa Point – walk to the lighthouse and see the beautiful vistas of the coastline.

Checkout other images from The Catlins, right here-right now!

Aotearoa, South Island, Travel, Wild Horses

The Devil’s Staircase

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Lake Wakatipu at Kingston

To get to Kingston, at the southern tip of Lake Wakatipu, you have two options. However, it must be pointed out that it very much depends on where you’re coming from. If you’re coming from Southland, then you’ll pass through small towns such as Lumsden and Lowther before reaching the lakeside village of Kingston.

The other option (and possibly more interesting) is to turn off at Frankton on your way to Queenstown and pass through what is known as ‘The Devil’s Staircase’. Roughly 35 km south of Queenstown, it’s part of the drive between Queenstown and Te Anau and is considered a must-do leg of any Otago/Southland driving itinerary, both for the thrill of the drive and the spectacular views. Exactly how it got its name has become part of local folklore — in other words, no one really knows!

Given the nature of the road, one can only imagine what it must have been like to tackle the narrow, winding, and steep terrain, with sharp curves hugging cliffs above Lake Wakatipu, without the aid of a motor vehicle.

One story tells the tale of Captain Frederick Burwell and the Southland Hussars. Formed in the 1860s in response to fears of a Russian invasion, the cavalry corps were intent upon defending the Otago-Southland coast. At the time, there were many volunteer militias throughout New Zealand, so it wasn’t unusual for settlers to sign up to volunteer groups.

So, in 1885, when an April Review was held in Queenstown, up to 258 men from surrounding areas were due to gather. In Kingston, Captain Frederick Burwell needed to take his 30 men from the end of Lake Wakatipu up to the review assembly point in Queenstown. However, instead of going via boat, for some reason he decided to travel overland — a journey that took him and his men via the notorious Devil’s Staircase.

Travelling on horseback, they negotiated their way over small, narrow, and rugged tracks next to sheer vertical drops, before facing near-perpendicular rock faces in spots over 1,000 feet high. Once they reached the summit, a magnificent view of the lake came into view. Having passed the famous Staircase, the Kawarau River was crossed by punt, arriving in Queenstown late in the afternoon, where Captain Burwell and his men were warmly greeted, having successfully completed an arduous 40-mile journey.

Just why Captain Burwell opted for the deadly overland trip via the Devil’s Staircase instead of the easier ferry trip was never fully explained.

Aoraki/Mount Cook, Aotearoa, Mackenzie Country, South Island, Wild Horses

On the Road to Mount Cook

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The road to Mount Cook

Here in the South Island, once you get into the MacKenzie Country, there are literally thousands of spots you can explore to take photos. Lake Ohau, Twizel, Lake Tekapo, Mount Dobson, and Lake Pukaki are just some of the areas you could spend weeks in and never run out of subject matter—and I haven’t even mentioned Mount Cook yet. Heck, on the way to Mount Cook you can even simply stand in the middle of the road and get interesting photos!

Aotearoa, Dunedin, Ōtepoti, South Island, Travel, Wild Horses

The Orokonui Ecosanctuary

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The Orokonui Ecosanctuary

One morning, I found myself at Orokonui Ecosanctuary. The warmth of the sunlight spilled over tussock and flax and caught the curve of the visitor centre like it was a natural part of the landscape. The nearby ponds reflected the still morning sky as tui’s and bellbirds tuned up for their morning symphony. Somewhere out there, a takahē waddled through purposefully looking for a spot of breakfast. I hadn’t even started walking the tracks yet, and already, nature was making me grin like an idiot.

Aotearoa, Frankton, Lake Hayes, Queenstown, Queenstown-Lakes District, South Island, Wild Horses

War & Peace

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The Shotover River n the Queenstown Lakes District

Let me assure you of this much (and it’s absolutely true)—only in the Queenstown Lakes District could you drive through traffic that was so insanely stupid and chaotic, yet be surrounded by scenery that was so breathtaking it could be the backdrop for a Hollywood movie. There I was, sitting in a seemingly endless procession of cars, buses, boats, camper vans, trucks, and motorbikes—being overtaken by grandparents with walkers out for an afternoon stroll, slowly developing a healthy dose of road rage as my knuckles turned white from gripping the steering wheel. And yet, all the while, I was encircled by majestic mountain peaks that reached up into the sky and stretched beyond the horizon, and crystal-clear blue lakes that sparkled and shone in the sunlight. Nowhere else had I ever found a situation that was such a shambles—and so spectacular—all at the same time.

Dunedin, Hindon, Ōtepoti, South Island, Wild Horses

The Gullies and Terraces of Hindon

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Hindon car and railway bridge

When Gabriel Reid discovered gold in a small gully near the Otago town of Lawrence in 1861, everyone went absolutely bonkers! Within weeks, the population of Dunedin skyrocketed as news of his announcement spread and everyone headed for the newly discovered gold fields in the hopes of getting rich. Following Gabriel’s initial find, small towns sprang up all over Otago as people with very little knowledge or experience in how to mine for gold arrived, and everyone went crazy with gold fever. One of those places was a small settlement in the Silverpeaks Mountain range near Dunedin, called Hindon.

At the time of the gold rush, nearly 1200 miners swarmed the gullies and terraces of Hindon hoping to strike it rich with an easy find. However, given the nature of gold rushes, once the gold ran out, miners quickly moved on to new goldfields while the real fortunes were made by the merchants selling shovels, the innkeepers charging exorbitant fees for a night’s rest, and the people who figured out that gold is easier to extract from the desperate than from the earth itself.

Aotearoa, Dunedin, Ōtepoti, South Island, Wild Horses

The Organ Pipes in Dunedin

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Mount Cargill from the Organ Pipes in Dunedin

If we take ourselves back in time, say, 15 million years ago, we’d find Dunedin to be a very different place. While such a journey would bring with it a number of issues, one of the most pressing problems would be that annoyingly active local volcano that just won’t quit erupting. During one of these eruptions, molten lava flowed across the landscape. As the lava cooled, it contracted and cracked, forming hexagonal basalt columns that can be found all over the region and at well-known local places such as Lawyers Head, Blackhead, and the Pyramids at the Okia Reserve on the Otago Peninsula. However, over the last 10 to 15 million years, erosion has shaped the landscape and features like the Organ Pipes into the forms we recognise today and love to climb over.

Dunedin, Ōtepoti, South Island, Wild Horses

Waterfall on the Ross Creek Trail

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Waterfall near Ross Creek

I arrived to find the usually sedate stream had become inundated with water after three days of intense, heavy rain. The torrent of water before me cascaded over three levels and crashed through a series of rocks before continuing its journey through the gorge. In this area of the bush, several small rivers ran from around Ross Creek and the Leith Valley before connecting up with the Waters of Leith.

Dunedin, Ōtepoti, South Island, Travel, Wild Horses

Otago Harbour from Harbour Cone

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Otago Harbour from Harbour Cone

About halfway down the hill, I came to the road. On the way up, this is where the true ascent of Harbour Cone really starts. At this point, I realised I must have taken a wrong turn, I shouldn’t be on the road at all! I should be on the other side of Harbour Cone walking down the side of the hill, dodging sheep poo and enjoying the coastline views of the peninsula. Having said that, the view of Otago Harbour that was now in front of me was fairly amazing.

Aotearoa, Dunedin, Otago, Ōtepoti, South Island, Wild Horses

A Walk Up Harbour Cone

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Otago Harbour from Harbour Cone

On an impulse, I’d decided to walk up Harbour Cone. Well, in actual fact that’s not totally correct. I looked it up the night before, so it wasn’t on impulse at all. I decided I was in need of a good walk, and now seemed as good a time as any to scale the 315 meters (or about 1,033 feet) to the summit! The previous evening, I’d looked up a local pamphlet, which said time: 3 hours, distance 4.5 km.‘Three hours? To walk 4.5 km? Even if it is uphill, surely that can’t be right’ I’d thought to myself. I’d noted it had stated: Difficulty—hard, very steep. I’d nonchalantly discarded this as meant for those people who were doing this sort of thing in jeans and sneakers and weren’t quite as outdoorsy as myself.

The next day, I woke up to rain. The clouds were dark and grey, a soft misty rain was falling. I’d read the track up Harbour Cone began from the suburb of Broad Bay. This is where I headed and undeterred by the changing weather, I parked my car and set off. Confident it wouldn’t take too long and I would be home in time to mow the lawns!

I hadn’t gone more than 50 metres—maybe 100 if I’m being generous—before my hands were on my knees and my lungs were already screaming. Clearly, this is something I’d wildly underestimated.

When I got to what I felt was about halfway up, I found a viewing spot and stopped there for a rest. Suddenly I heard the voices of two people coming down the track. When they arrived, they weren’t out of breath at all. In actual fact, they were in quite a spritely mood. They looked to be in their seventies and were wearing jeans and sneakers. I did my best to stand upright and pretend that I was just merely catching my breath in as manly a way as I could, trying not to act as if I was about to collapse at any moment.

“The lady informed me, ‘There’s rain in the forecast. I checked on my app—it’s meant to come down at 1:00 p.m.’ I looked at my watch—ten to one. ‘It’s a lovely view up there, if not just a tad windy.’

‘Enjoy,’ she added before bounding down the hill.

I trudged on. The rest of the walk up the hill was steep, very steep as it turns out. I wasn’t so much walking, as slowly trudging up the hill. Every time I looked up, just as I thought the summit must be near, I’d find in astonishment that another peak loomed further on. Wearily, I continued up the hill, wondering why I’d brought so much camera gear with me and cursing myself for bringing that extra lens and camera body that I knew I wasn’t going to need anyway.

At one point just as I thought that the top was in sight, I stepped over a row of rocks hoping to see the last few feet in front of me. “Oh, fuck,” I said, finding that instead of being at the top, I was still only three-quarters of the way up with another 20 metres to go.

At the summit, I stayed a while to take a few photos, enjoy the view and have a drop of water. It really was quite spectacular. I stood a moment, fixed my gaze beyond the horizon as the wind blew through my hair. Standing there, at the highest point on the peninsula, I suddenly knew what it must have felt like for Sir Edmond Hillary when he reached the top of Mount Everest. It was nice to have something in common with the great man. That’s when I noticed—it was spitting with rain again, this time a wee bit harder. And the wind? Oh yeah, definitely picking up. I hadn’t noticed it before, but now I was actually starting to feel rather cold. It turns out that pamphlet was right. It was steep, very steep and the weather was changing quite quickly. Who knew that the people that wrote these things actually knew what they were talking about.

I started my descent, taking in the view. About halfway down, I met a couple that were on their way up the hill. They were looking tired and exhausted. So I said to them in a spritely voice, “It’s a magnificent view up there. Starting to spit with rain a wee bit, though. Enjoy.” And off I went, striding down the hill like someone who hadn’t just been on the verge of collapse 20 minutes earlier.

Aotearoa, Dunedin, Ōtepoti, South Island, Wild Horses

Mount Allan, Powder Ridge and the Rock and Pillar Range.

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Mount Allan, Powder Ridge and the Rock and Pillar Range.

Having made it to the Flagstaff summit, without the need of a deliberator or a rescue helicopter, both of which I took as encouraging signs, I pushed on along the Pineapple Track. 

I wandered through the wide open tussock land and rolling hills until the view suddenly opened up in front of me.  I paused for a moment, taking the time to enjoy the expansive views that looked out across Mount Allan and Powder Ridge, with the Rock and Pillar Range far off in the distance. It really was magnificent.

Aotearoa, Dunedin, Ōtepoti, South Island, Wild Horses

Dunedin City from Flagstaff

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Dunedin city from Flagstaff

By the time I reached the summit the day had transformed into what locals call ‘a stunner’. The high cloud that had lingered in the morning had disappeared, leaving the day hot and fine with a zephyr breeze proving most welcome. 

On a good day (and this was a good day), the view of Dunedin City from the Flagstaff summit, really is wonderful. You can see far out to sea and along the coastline as it stretches far to the south. In the other direction the track up the hill provides unspoiled views deep into the hinterland. It had taken me some 25 minutes to reach the summit- an effort I was reasonably pleased with given my lack of recent conditioning, and my reward was the all together splendid view that now sat before me. What’s more, at this point the track was free of dog poo, this gave me almost as much pleasure as the view.