The Guinness Factory & The River Liffey

Daily Photo: The Guinness Factory & The River Liffey

For a long time, I didn’t particularly like this photograph. I was in Dublin, wandering around with a camera, and somewhere along the way I had the opportunity to cross the River Liffey and photograph the famous Guinness gates. I didn’t. At the time I was with extended family and the idea of making the effort seemed slightly unnecessary. I had already seen plenty of photographs of Guinness, and I was quite happy wandering the streets on my own side of the river. Sometimes, apparently, I can be remarkably efficient at talking myself out of taking a photograph.

It was only later, when I looked back at the images from the trip, that this one started to grow on me. There is something almost ridiculously Irish about the combination of the Guinness brewery and the Liffey. If someone had asked me to put together a photograph that summed up Dublin without resorting to leprechauns, shamrocks or a man playing a fiddle in a pub, this would probably have been somewhere near the top of the list.

The photograph itself is a little more complicated than simply pointing a camera at a brewery. The Guinness buildings sit behind the old brick wall, while the Liffey provides the reflection in the foreground. The bare winter tree sits almost perfectly in the middle, tying the two halves together, and for once the river was actually behaving itself. It was still enough to give me a reflection without requiring me to do anything clever.

I suppose that is why I’ve come back to this photograph. It reminds me that photographs don’t always reveal themselves immediately. Sometimes you take one because the opportunity is there, forget about it for years, and then discover that the photograph you almost didn’t bother taking has quietly become one of the better reminders of where you’ve been.

And, in this case, it is difficult to get much more Dublin than Guinness, the Liffey and a tree that looks like it has been standing there wondering what all the fuss is about. It also gave me a reason to visit the Guinness Factory next time I was in Dublin.

The Brisbane Summer Heat

Daily Photo: Shade in the Brisbane CBD

There are times when a photograph is carefully planned, and there are other times when you simply happen to be in the right place with a camera in your hand. This was probably somewhere in between. I was out on a 30-degree Brisbane summer’s day, which, coming from Dunedin, seemed less like pleasant weather and more like someone had accidentally left the oven door open. It was the sort of heat that makes you walk a little slower, look for shade a little more carefully and wonder why you had decided that wandering around outside was such a good idea in the first place.

I had no particular plan beyond seeing what I could find. That’s often how I prefer to explore somewhere new, because once you start looking for a particular photograph, you can easily miss everything else going on around you. I was moving through the Brisbane CBD, taking in the heat, the light, the changing scenes and the shade when I came across a square covered with shade. There was something about the way the covered shade made me stop and take a second look. It wasn’t a famous viewpoint or some grand Australian landmark, just an ordinary piece city design that happened to look right at that particular moment.

I took the photograph, although I wasn’t thinking about photographic theory or trying to capture some profound statement about Australian architecture or Brisbane as a city. I simply liked what I was seeing. The whole scene was framed with interesting shapes and sections that moved my eye around yet drew me in at the same time. 

That’s one of the things I enjoy about wandering around with a camera. You don’t necessarily go looking for a photograph. Sometimes you just keep walking until something makes you slow down, look twice and decide that it is worth stopping for. On a 30-degree Brisbane afternoon, finding a reason to stop in the shade probably wasn’t a bad thing either.

Strolling Along Brunswick Street

Daily Photo: The Phoenix Hotel on Brunswick Street

I doubt you’ll ever see this building in an advertisement for Melbourne. I came across it while wandering in drizzling rain along Brunswick Street in North Melbourne. Curious about its history, I did a quick Google search under an ageing veranda to shelter from the rain and discovered that the pub had been built in 1866 and was originally known as Austin’s Hotel. It was apparently named after a man called Thomas Austin, a local landowner who is famously remembered for importing 24 rabbits and releasing them onto his property so he would have something to shoot when he was bored.

It was a disastrous mistake. The rabbits multiplied, spread rapidly and caused enormous damage to the Australian landscape, creating a problem that Australia has been dealing with ever since. Their introduction is now regarded as one of Australia’s most damaging biological invasions. And here, quite unexpectedly, I had stumbled across a building apparently connected to the whole unfortunate episode.

The excitement wasn’t to last. On the way back to my accommodation, as I sat on a tram gently rocking from side to side, I discovered that Thomas Austin had absolutely no connection with the building. What I had found was nothing more than a piece of common folklore that had made its way into walking guides.

The building actually came into existence thanks to a man named William Austin, who was no relation to Thomas. He was a Melbourne property holder and publican who acquired the Sydney Road allotment in Brunswick in the early 1860s and built the hotel, opening it as Austin’s Hotel in 1866.

I was disappointed.

George’s Street Arcade in Dublin

Daily Photo: Brassière or Brasserie?

Before arriving in Dublin, I’d been given a vague rundown of what we’d be doing and an even vaguer idea of where we’d be staying. So, to fill the time on the very long flight from Singapore to Heathrow, I decided to work my way through a bit of Dublin’s history in a book I’d brought with me, rather than sitting through the seemingly endless selection of inflight movies, which always appears to consist of romantic comedies, love-filled dramas and Mamma Mia on almost permanent rotation.

I figured a little reading might be more useful, although I use the word “useful” rather generously. Most of what I was reading would probably never come in handy unless I found myself in a local pub quiz in some small Irish village. Among the random bits and pieces was a mention of George’s Street Arcade. I’d been told about the arcade because it was one of the vague places that might be worth wandering around while we were in Dublin.

So imagine my surprise when, two days after Christmas, I was wandering the streets of Dublin, quietly humming the well-known tune of “Cockles and Mussels”, when I turned a corner and there it was.

George’s Street Arcade.

The entrance seemed to guide me in through a collection of carefully placed Christmas trees, and inside there was a quiet, post-Christmas lull. Overhead, Victorian ironwork framed a soft glow from the lingering festive lights, while the red brick walls provided shelter from the passing drizzle. The whole place had a slow, agreeable rhythm to it.

People drifted between stalls piled high with faded vinyl, pre-loved clothing and paperbacks whose pages seemed to smell faintly of someone else’s history. The smell of coffee filled the chilly air, footsteps echoed softly across the worn tiles, and the muted chatter of shoppers gave the place the sort of atmosphere that encouraged you to slow down and have a look around, even if you had no particular idea what you were looking for.

I wandered around for a while, taking it all in, before eventually heading back out onto South Great George’s Street. I stood there for a moment, looking around to see if anything else caught my eye, then headed off in the direction of St Stephen’s Green and hoped, as I often do in unfamiliar cities, that I wouldn’t get lost.

Although I did manage to misread a sign across the road. At first glance, I thought it said Brassière Sixty Six, which seemed like a remarkably large and rather upmarket shop devoted entirely to bras. The window display seemed a little odd, but then again, I wasn’t entirely sure what the Dublin lingerie market was like. It took me a moment to realise that it actually said Brasserie Sixty Six, a popular Dublin restaurant.

Which suddenly explained why the clientele appeared to be overwhelmingly male.

The Bamboo Scaffolding of Hong Kong

Daily Photo: Bamboo Scaffolding, Apparently

Of all the things that took me by surprise in the sensory overload that is, or perhaps was, Hong Kong, the one that has stuck in my mind the longest is the scaffolding. Made out of bamboo.

It first came to my attention while wandering along Nathan Road, although this was, of course, before I got disastrously sick, spent three days in bed convinced I was going to die, and eventually had my wife virtually dragging me through the airport for our flight home. I did manage a few strolls before all that happened, and on one of them I couldn’t help noticing that the scaffolding covering the buildings was made from bamboo.

This seemed both strange and slightly bizarre to my Western eyes. I had grown up with the idea that scaffolding was supposed to be made from steel, or at the very least something that looked as though it had a reasonable chance of holding up a building. Bamboo poles lashed together seemed a rather optimistic approach to structural engineering.

As it turns out, they work remarkably well.

Here at home, if I started erecting a structure along the side of my house made from sticks, tied it together with rope and announced that it was scaffolding, I suspect the local authorities and one very unhappy wife would have something to say about it. In Hong Kong, however, bamboo scaffolding is a long-established part of the city’s construction industry.

So there I was, wandering along Nathan Road, surrounded by the sights and sounds of Hong Kong, trying to take in the businesses, the glowing lights and the older architecture squeezed in among the giant towers, while all around them were these enormous structures made from bamboo. There was something wonderfully strange about the contrast. At night, with the lights glowing through and around the scaffolding, the city seemed to turn into a sort of enormous three-dimensional checkerboard.

That’s when I took this photo, the whole thing was quite fascinating. At the time I even thought it might be something I’d like to try at home, although my ambitions were rather short-lived. I became sick not long afterwards and never got the opportunity to look closely at how they actually put the stuff together. Which is probably just as well as I’m not sure there’s a great supply of bamboo in Dunedin, and somehow I suspect my wife would have had a few questions if I’d arrived home with a large supply and announced that I was going to start experimenting with it.

A Walk Around Victoria Park

Daily Photo: Where the Cows Used to Graze

I was staying with relatives in Shepparton for a few nights when someone suggested I take a walk around Victoria Park. I had no particular expectations, but a local recommendation is usually worth following, so I went to have an explore.

The area that would eventually become Victoria Park was once considerably less inviting. Before it was developed as a park, the land was used for grazing, including by local dairy farmers who would let their cows graze there between milkings. It was probably a perfectly sensible use of the land at the time, although it doesn’t immediately sound like the sort of place where you would go for a pleasant afternoon walk, unless you happened to be a cow.

The area was named Victoria Park after Queen Victoria in 1901, and at its centre was a body of water that was, to put it generously, more swamp than lake. By 1928, someone had decided that the swamp had probably done enough, and clearing work began to create a proper lake suitable for boating, swimming and general recreation.

As I walked around, it became obvious that Victoria Park had gradually accumulated the sort of things you expect to find in a well-used local park. Over the years a swimming pool, playground and skate park were added, while a wetlands area connecting towards the nearby Goulburn River became another feature. Today the park covers about 43 hectares, with nearly two kilometres of walking tracks winding through it.

What had once been an unsightly swamp and a place for cows to spend the hours between milkings had become a surprisingly pleasant part of Shepparton. There was the lake, established trees, open grassed areas, walking tracks and plenty of people making use of the park. It had the comfortable feel of a place that belongs to the locals rather than somewhere designed to impress visitors.

I walked around the lake, stopping occasionally when something caught my eye and taking photographs as I went. This is generally how I explore somewhere unfamiliar. I don’t particularly need an itinerary. Give me a walking track, a camera and somewhere I haven’t seen before, and I’m usually quite happy to see where it leads.

Victoria Park wasn’t somewhere I had planned to visit before arriving in Shepparton, and I probably wouldn’t have found it without that recommendation. But that’s one of the things I enjoy about travelling. The places that stay with you aren’t always the ones you’ve been told you must see. Sometimes they’re simply somewhere a local tells you to go for a walk.

Although, where people who live in town let their cows graze in between milking is quite beyond me.

State Highway 87

Daily Photo: Diverting through Ranfurly

I was heading for St Bathans, with the intention of diverting through Ranfurly in the hope of finding a warm cup of coffee along the way. That morning I set out on a back road through Kokonga before joining Highway 87, where paddocks, sheds, farm buildings, hay bales and livestock slowly came and went through the white, misty gloom. It was the sort of morning where the landscape seemed to exist only in pieces, appearing briefly through the fog before disappearing again.

Then, almost as quickly as it had arrived, the mist began to lift. The clouds parted, the sun broke through and suddenly the whole landscape was revealed beneath a heavy blanket of fresh winter snow. The rolling high-country hills stretched away beneath a pale blue sky, with wire fences disappearing into the distance and the snow-clad mountains rising sharply along the horizon. It was one of those scenes that seemed to confirm you were travelling through the South Island in winter, and there really wasn’t anywhere else you could possibly be.

Treeline In Snow Near Kokonga

Daily Photo – Treeline in snow near Kokonga

Continuing past Kokonga, the landscape softened into a quieter, almost forgotten stillness. Just past a bridge, along the edge of a snow-covered paddock, a line of bare trees stood beside a river, a fenceline and a simple farm gate, the human touches cutting through the white blanket. Looking past the gate, a track led further into the field and through the trees, entirely untouched, smoothed over by a fresh layer of snow, ice and frost that has a way of turning the ordinary into something remarkably serene.

There is an understated charm to these quiet corners of the Maniototo, where a wooden fence and a cluster of wintering trees can hold as much presence as the grandest mountain range. The mist hung low over the distant fields, blurring the boundary between earth and sky, while the farm gate stood slightly agape, as if quietly inviting you to stop and take in the slow, unhurried rhythm of backcountry winter.

Queen Street In Auckland

Daily Photo – Queen Street in Auckland

I thought Auckland’s Queen Street would be busy on a Wednesday, but it was the very opposite. The streets were virtually empty of tourists and shoppers, as if they’d abandoned the city centre; only the occasional group of well dressed people in business attire appeared, hurrying between buildings. Perhaps the persistent rain had persuaded people to find better things to do than pass their day by aimlessly wandering between shops, with an occasional coffee thrown in. It used to be a place that was teeming with people and a hub of activity.

How the world has changed. Now there wasn’t much more than a scattering of people, the majority seeming to be sitting in doorways asking for money or yelling at each other from across the street while the commercial focus seems to have shifted out into the suburbs, leaving very little reason for people to actually go into the city center in the first place. Yet, despite all that, there were still glimpses of the old Auckland: the grand old buildings, the odd busy café, and the occasional burst of life that reminded me the city hadn’t completely given up on itself. Perhaps it was simply waiting for the rain to stop.

The Town of Naseby

Daily Photo – I.N.P Hjorring Draper & Clothing

My final stop for the day was Naseby, another town that started life in the gold rush and has managed to survive thanks to holidaymakers looking for somewhere a little quieter, and considerably less expensive, than the tourist hotspots of Arrowtown, Frankton and Queenstown. I found the town covered in bathed in bright daylight and a chilly 2 degrees. The main road into town led me past row after row of cottages and the local reserve, which was filled with kids building snowmen, Dads throwing snowballs, and mothers wondering how on earth they were going to get everything dry! A few blocks further along, the streets were filled with cars parked on snow-covered sidewalks as people strolled around enjoying the wintry snow. People happily sat in the sun out front of the local hotel as pockets of snow slid off the roof and water from the melting snow trickled down the footpath.

At its peak, the population of the town had grown to around 4,000 miners, with the town featuring up to 14 hotels, two butchers, multiple bakeries, billiard rooms and banks, a courthouse, a warden’s court, a post and telegraph office, a police station and jail, a blacksmith and wheelwright shop, a hospital, a school, and numerous churches. All of this was there to service the miners who had swelled into the town. I strolled for a few blocks, looking at nothing in particular, before returning to my car and leaving the town of Naseby behind.

The Town Of Ophir

Daily Photo – The town of Ophir

I walked up and down the main street, Swindon Street. At one end was the Pitches Store and Butcher, an old-fashioned stone building that started life as a family-run general store and butchery in the 1880s and now advertises itself as contemporary luxury accommodation and a restaurant for those wanting a quiet retreat in slow-paced surroundings. Further on is the rather small but grand Post and Telegraph Office, which proudly lays claim to being the longest-running Post Office in the country. It’s open for three hours every weekday morning, where you can admire the memorabilia display or buy a postcard and get it marked with the town’s unique pick-and-shovel gold-mining postmark. Next door is the town’s Peace Memorial Hall, which still holds a function or two, judging by the nearby faded posters, and is reputed to have great acoustics and an outstanding dancing floor, although I can safely guarantee that is something I will never be able to confirm in person! 

I’d parked at the opposite end of the town at the pub, otherwise known as Blacks Hotel, and on the way back I passed buildings that had been stables, churches, bakeries and other such places you might find in a small Central Otago gold-mining town.

And that pretty much exhausted the town of Ophir. All that was left to do was drive across the popular local landmark, the suspension bridge, and head into the Ida Valley, a place I’d been looking forward to seeing once again.

The Case Of Fraud At The Ranfurly Hotel

Daily Photo – The Ranfurly Hotel

I awoke the next morning to discover that Central Otago had turned the cold up a few notches. A sharp frost had covered almost everything, while a low-lying mist hung over the countryside. The temperature gauge was hovering around -7°C, which is the sort of temperature that makes you question the thickness of the socks you’ve just put on. With my fingers numb and the chilly morning air slapping me hard across the face, I went in search of some life-infusing coffee.

Ten minutes later, I rolled into the town of Ranfurly, which seemed partially hidden in a sea of mist, fog and ice. I found a cafe, purchased a coffee and went for a poke around the town, which is where I found the Ranfurly Hotel, looking quiet and lonely in the morning air.

Thanks to a very helpful information board, I discovered that the current version of the hotel sprang to life in 1934, after a major fire in 1933 destroyed the previous hotel that stood on the site. Where things get a little cagey is the fact that the 1933 fire soon became the subject of a fraud investigation.

At the time of the fire, the hotel was being run by Alexander Spence and his wife, Margaret. Following the fire, they made an insurance claim for goods and property that had been destroyed in the blaze, including furniture, mattresses, carpets, chairs and other items you might expect to find in a busy rural hotel. The thing was, after a police investigation, many of the items being claimed for suspiciously turned up at the Spences’ farm, all in perfect condition. The case went to court and, in April 1934, Alexander and Margaret Spence were found guilty of fraud. They were fined £10, with six months’ imprisonment in default of payment.

Hop Into Waimate

Daily Photo – Hop into waimate

There’s a wonderful sense of irony with Waimate’s famous yellow barn. That being the fact that they’re using an introduced, invasive pest that happily nibbles its way across the country to advertise the town. It’s a man named Michael Studholme who can take a bow for introducing this unwanted species into New Zealand. During the 1870s, he decided it would be a good idea to release wallabies on his property as a novelty, a decision everyone has regretted ever since.

A Spring Morning In Dunedin

Daily Photo – A spring morning in Dunedin

How I like fine and warm spring mornings, they have such a positive feel about them. Especially on a Saturday, when the city seems to take its time waking up. I was wandering through the centre of Dunedin on a Saturday morning when I found the streets around the Octagon looking surprisingly deserted. The sun was already high enough to catch the tops of the buildings, while the bare branches of the trees were beginning to hint that winter was finally on its way out.

There was hardly anyone about. A few cars, a couple of early shoppers and the odd person going about their business, but otherwise it felt strangely quiet for a Saturday morning. I assumed most of Dunedin had migrated towards the Farmers’ Market, leaving this part of town to the cafe owners and the pigeons.

For a moment, though, I quite liked having the city almost to myself. It made the familiar buildings, shopfronts and old street lamps seem somehow different, as if Dunedin had paused for a coffee before getting on with the weekend.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click here

The La Trobe Reading Room

Daily Photo – The La Trobe Reading Room

Today I take you inside the State Library of Victoria and, more specifically, into the rather impressive La Trobe Reading Room.

It really is quite something.

The moment you walk in, your eyes are drawn upwards. There’s the enormous octagonal dome, balconies disappearing off in every direction and, far below, row upon row of desks where people sit quietly getting on with whatever important things people do in libraries. Of course, being there as a photographer, I had other concerns. Mainly, how on earth was I going to fit the whole thing into one photograph?

The skylight high above pours daylight into the room, while down below the old wooden desks sit in much deeper shadow. Cameras, unlike eyes, tend to get a little upset by this sort of thing, so there was a fair bit of stopping, starting and fiddling about with the exposure. Then there was the geometry. The room is full of lines, circles, balconies and angles, all of which seem determined to go slightly crooked the moment you point an ultra-wide lens at them. Finally, there’s the people, they’re truly everywhere. Most of them are just like me, trying to get a photo from an upper floor balcony. Still, after a bit of patience and a considerable amount of lining things up, I got there in the end.

And really, with a room like this, it would have been rude not to try.

Victoria State Library

Daily Photo – Victoria State Library

On my way through Melbourne on one of my trips, I’d been in the Central Place mall, I think it was called, photographing an old brick building tucked inside the mall itself and sitting beneath a dome. It was only as I was leaving that I remembered I’d wanted to check out the Victoria State Library.

I’d read that it was one of those grand old Roman-style buildings and figured it might be worth a look. As it turned out, it was.

Leading up to the library is this great set of broad steps, which added another dimension to the photograph and gave me something interesting to work with. The only problem was that the steps were absolutely packed with people. There was no shortage of subjects, just rather too many of them. So I waited. Eventually, a gap appeared, the crowd thinned just enough, and I managed to get the shot I was after.

Langlois-Éteveneaux House in Akaroa

Daily Photo – Langlois-Éteveneaux House

In the afternoon of my second day in Akaroa, I paid a visit to the local museum, where I was particularly interested to see inside the heritage cottage sitting towards the end of the main line of shops. I’d walked past it a number of times, so was pleased to finally get the opportunity to have a peek inside.

Still sitting in its original location, the two-room Langlois-Éteveneaux House is something of a survivor. It is the only remaining house known to have been constructed by French colonists in Akaroa during the 1840s, which gives the little building rather more significance than its modest appearance might suggest.

After a quiet poke around, I learned, among other things, that the house was commissioned by one Aimable Langlois, who ran the neighbouring French store. The building that followed was distinctly French in character, with the small, rectangular and symmetrical proportions typical of the colonial style, along with a steeply pitched roof and shuttered casement windows.

It’s a wonderfully simple little house, but it offers a rather tangible glimpse of the brief moment when Akaroa and the rest of New Zealand might have become French! Now there’s a scary thought! 

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click here

The Corner for Value in Temuka

Daily Photo – The Corner for Value in Temuka

This was a fun image to create. I came across the building while wandering through the South Island town of Temuka. The faded words “The Corner for Value” are still clinging to the façade, like a shopkeeper who has decided retirement is somewhat overrated.

The name belonged to A. Gabites, a drapery business established by Arthur Gabites. Arthur died suddenly in 1898, aged just 55, leaving Margaret with twelve children, the youngest only ten months old. Somehow, the family kept the business going, eventually expanding into building this shop in 1905–06. By then, Arthur had been gone for several years, but his name remained above the door.

The family had already made their mark in Timaru, where their Stafford Street premises became known as Gabites Corner. So when this shop appeared in Temuka, locals suddenly found themselves with two Gabites Corners barely fifteen minutes apart.

A century later, only one thing seems to have changed. The customers have gone. The corner remains.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click here

Dawn on Lower Stuart Street

Daily Photo – Dawn on Lower Stuart Street

I took this photo of Lower Stuart Street early one morning, and just like much of Dunedin, it’s early surveyor Charles Kettle we can thank for it. In 1846 when Kettle arrived in Otago with the rather daunting task of turning what was largely wilderness into a new town. Working with his assistants, he surveyed the head of the harbour and began laying out the streets, sections and reserves that would become Dunedin. Kettle had studied Edinburgh before leaving Britain, and deliberately borrowed elements of its layout, including the broad streets, squares and central Octagon. The terrain, however, had other ideas. Hills, gullies, swamps and Bell Hill all got in the way, but Kettle pressed on. By the time the first settlers arrived in 1848, the basic town plan was largely complete.

The small wrinkle in the story starts with what we now know as Stuart Street. When Charles Kettle laid out Dunedin in his original survey, the street we call Stuart Street was actually called Albert Street. At some point the name was changed to Stuart Street, adding another Scottish connection to a town already filled with reminders of Edinburgh as Princes Street, George Street and Hanover Street had all been borrowed from the Scottish capital. Stuart Street followed the same pattern.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click Here

The Year of the Fire Horse

Daily Photo – Dunedin’s Traditional Chinese Garden

So this year is the Year of the Fire Horse, which, I’m led to believe, is supposed to be a year of optimism, opportunity and getting things moving. The Fire Horse is said to be energetic and dynamic, which sounds promising, although I’m beginning to think what the world really needs is a quiet afternoon and a cup of green tea.

Those born under the Horse are apparently hardworking, warm-hearted and fiercely independent, while the horse itself has long been associated with success, freedom and good fortune. So perhaps there’s something to look forward to. At the very least, it seems like a good year to saddle up, hold on tight and see where the road takes us.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click here

The Town Of Winton

Daily Photo – Evening at the Railway Hotel in Winton

There are towns you can imagine being named after politicians, explorers or some long-forgotten gentleman with a suitably impressive beard. Then there is Winton.

The story begins in the late 1850s, when stockman Thomas Winton was moving through Southland in search of strayed cattle. At some point, he stopped beside a small stream and made camp. It was hardly the sort of event you would expect to leave much of a mark on history, but the stream became known as Winton Creek.

And then, as these things sometimes do, the name stuck.

When the Southland settlement was formally established in 1861 and the township surveyed in 1863, the fledgling town inherited the name of the stockman who had once camped beside its creek.

These days Winton sits about 30 kilometres north of Invercargill, a quiet Southland town surrounded by some of the country’s best grazing country. But long before there was a main street, a railway or a town clock, there was Thomas Winton, a drover, some wandering stock and a night spent beside a little stream.

Not a bad legacy for simply stopping for the night.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click here

Morning Mist In The Pine Trees

Daily Photo – Morning mist in the Pine Trees

Having decided to spend a few days exploring Central Otago after a reasonably heavy snowfall, I’d stopped for the night in the small town of Waipiata. I’d eaten at the pub and washed it down with a few pints before retiring to bed at a reasonably sensible hour.

I awoke the next morning to discover that Central Otago had turned the cold up a few notches. A sharp frost had covered almost everything, while a low-lying mist hung over the countryside. The temperature gauge was hovering around -7°C, which is the sort of temperature that makes you question the thickness of the socks you’ve just put on.

After the usual morning ablutions, breakfast and a few cups of coffee, I was ready to head out and see what I could find. There was, however, one small problem. The car had spent the night outside and had apparently decided it wasn’t quite ready to face the morning and took a good fifteen minutes to persuade the ice covering the windows to give up its grip.

By the time I could actually see through the windscreen, my fingers were numb, the coffee had lost some of its appeal and I was beginning to wonder whether exploring Central Otago in the middle of winter had been quite such a good idea after all. Still, I was there, so there was really only one thing to do: get in the car and go exploring.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click here

Red Gums, Twilight, and The Bushranger’s Canopy

Daily Photo – An Evening In Shepparton Regional Park

An early evening stroll led me deep into the heart of Shepparton Regional Park, a uniquely captivating Australian landscape. I found myself completely surrounded by the magnificent, sprawling floodplain forests of classic River Red Gums. As the fading daylight dipped below the horizon, a warm, golden sunset drifted softly through the dense canopy. The ancient trunks cast long shadows across the forest floor, framing the Australian twilight.

Standing here among the monotony of the trees, it is easy to see how a single step off the track could leave you utterly disoriented and lost. It was precisely this unforgiving, vast wilderness that colonial bushrangers relied upon, vanishing into the dense scrub to escape the law and evade the police for months on end.

What Australians historically term a ‘bushranger’ is really what the rest of us would call a common thief or outlaw. The most celebrated among them include figures like Ned Kelly, Harry Power, Daniel ‘Mad Dog’ Morgan, and Ben Hall, a collection of deeply anti-social fugitives wanted for an impressively long list of offences. They had a knack for vanishing into the unforgiving landscape, occasionally emerging to rob passing travellers, stagecoaches, and wealthy landowners before melting back into the scenery, sometimes not to be seen for months or even years. As far as hiding places went, Australia was so bafflingly immense that the opportunities for disappearing were almost endless, requiring a genuinely heroic level of commitment from the local constabulary to track the outlaws down. Modern Australians seem to love these characters as beloved folk icons, when in reality they were largely a collection of bullies and murderous thugs looking out for little more than their own gain.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click here

Simply Being Kowloon

Daily Photo – Somewhere Along Nathan Road

I took this photograph somewhere along Nathan Road, although I couldn’t tell you exactly where. To be honest, it hardly matters because there are countless buildings like this throughout Kowloon. They aren’t landmarks, yet together they define the city.

At first glance it’s simply an ageing concrete building. Then the details begin to emerge. Washing hangs from balconies high above the traffic. Windows are propped open despite the humidity. Every floor has been enclosed, altered, repaired, extended, or adapted over the decades until the building has developed its own wonderfully untidy character. Air conditioning units cling to the outside walls in such numbers that they seem almost structural, as though removing them might cause the whole place to collapse.

The more I stood there, the more I realised I wasn’t looking at architecture. I was looking at thousands of ordinary lives stacked one on top of another. Homes above offices. Businesses beside apartments. Families, shopkeepers, accountants, students and retirees, all sharing the same block while Nathan Road flowed relentlessly beneath them.

It struck me that this was exactly the sort of thing I like about traveling. Not experiencing a famous attraction or a postcard view, just an ordinary building quietly getting on with the business of simply being. In this case, simply being Kowloon.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click here

Exploring The Goulburn River In Northern Victoria

Daily Photo – The Goulburn River

I spent an afternoon near the banks of the Goulburn River, which has the honour of being northern Victoria’s largest river. Yet this peaceful stretch of water was once one of the busiest crossroads in colonial Victoria. Long before Shepparton existed as the quiet city it is now, when gold was discovered and everyone went bonkers heading for Victoria’s northern goldfields, sooner or later every miner came to a single river crossing known as McGuire’s Punt. It was a simple and crude, yet effective, set-up, with a decidedly rickety and primitive punt that carried people from one muddy bank to the other by way of a rope.

That also made it an ideal place for the less respectable members of society to take advantage of the busy crossing. Miners carrying pokes full of gold dust, merchants with wagons of supplies, wandering gamblers, escaped convicts, bushrangers, and every variety of drifter all passed through here, while others looked for an opportunity to relieve someone of their possessions.

These days the Goulburn drifts quietly past towering river gums, yet it’s fascinating to think that this tranquil river once held up the entire traffic of the Victorian gold rush. Before there was a town, before there were bridges, there was simply a river, a punt, and a queue of hopeful souls waiting to cross.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click here

The Secret Life of St Paul’s Cathedral

Daily Photo – Melbourne’s Grand Cathedral

Stepping inside St Paul’s Cathedral in Melbourne is a bit like walking through a time machine. One moment you’re surrounded by trams rattling along Flinders Street and thousands of commuters hurrying to catch a train. Next, you’re standing beneath soaring arches where the noise of the city simply disappears. It’s quite the contrast.

What I particularly enjoyed, though, was discovering that the cathedral has one of Australia’s more unusual traditions. Hidden away inside is a set of bell-ringing ropes connected to thirteen enormous bells housed in the tower. Rather than chiming automatically, these bells are still rung the old-fashioned way by teams of volunteers. It’s called change ringing, and instead of playing tunes, the ringers perform intricate mathematical sequences that can take hours to complete. To the untrained ear it sounds delightfully random. To the people pulling the ropes, it’s a carefully choreographed performance requiring remarkable concentration and teamwork.

I find something rather comforting about that. In an age where almost everything is controlled by computers, there are still people happily spending an afternoon hauling on ropes simply to keep a centuries-old tradition alive.

The cathedral itself is magnificent, but it’s knowing that somewhere above your head a group of enthusiastic bell ringers is quietly practising an ancient art that makes the place feel just that little bit more special.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click here

The Secret Hidden Beneath Belfast City Hall

Daily Photo – Reflection of Belfast City Hill

If buildings could talk, Belfast City Hall would probably spend half its time gossiping about pigeons and the other half complaining about people climbing onto its lawns for the perfect photograph. Completed in 1906, it’s an absolute showpiece, built to celebrate Belfast’s brief but spectacular spell as one of the richest cities in the world. By day it’s impressive enough, but at night, when it’s bathed in coloured lights and reflected in rain-soaked pavement, it becomes one of those buildings that practically insists on having its photo taken.

The quirky part of its story, though, lies beneath your feet.

Hidden under the grand entrance is a sealed time capsule placed there when the foundation stone was laid in 1898. Packed inside are coins, newspapers and documents from Victorian Belfast, all intended for people who haven’t been born yet. It’s the architectural equivalent of stuffing things into the attic and hoping your great-grandchildren find them one day.

I rather like that idea. While thousands of tourists wander around admiring the domes, columns and Christmas lights, there’s a little snapshot of everyday Belfast quietly waiting underground. One day someone will eventually open it and discover what people considered worth preserving. Hopefully they’ll also find instructions on how to keep the pigeons off the statues, because judging by the evidence outside, that mystery still hasn’t been solved.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click here

Strolling Along Harcourt Street

Daily Photo – Krystle & Diceys

The plan for my first morning in Dublin was simple: a quick stroll through the city centre, followed by breakfast with a few friends. So it was that we soon found ourselves pushing through the crowds of Grafton Street, past the Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, and continued along St Stephen’s Green before crossing onto Harcourt Street. We were heading for what I was reliably informed was one of the best spots for breakfast in the whole of Dublin. 

Along the way, I found a nice bit of symmetry in the Dublin buildings, all decorated in Christmas cheer, before ducking into the Iveagh Gardens to work up an appetite.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click here

Sedan Chairs, Peak Trams & Victoria Peak

Daily Photo – Victoria Peak in Hong Kong

This is a view from one of the lookouts on Victoria Peak. The best way to get there is to take the Peak Tram, a 138-year-old railway line that slowly rattles its way to the top over a vibrating ten minutes, making numerous stops along the way as it still functions as a genuine piece of public transport.

Once you arrive at the top, you get pretty much the same view as the original residents of Victoria Peak in the 19th century. Before 1888, however, residents reached their homes by using sedan chairs, which carried them up and down the slope. No doubt this was much slower and considerably harder work, especially for the unfortunate souls doing the carrying rather than the sitting.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click here

Avenue de la Paix

Daily Photo – Musée Ariana

Back in 2002 I was strolling down a grand thoroughfare called Avenue de la Paix when I came across what I later found out was the Musée Ariana – one of Geneva’s architectural and cultural gems. I know this because I took a photo of it. 

Exactly what I was doing there, the route I took or in what direction I walked to get back to my hotel, I just couldn’t say. What would be a pretty good guess is that on the way back I probably stopped at the brilliant little neighbourhood bar right across the road from our hotel and used my non-existent french to order a beer – Kronenbourg 1664 I’m guessing.

Curious for more? Explore more from a Small City.

Click Here