Queens Garden and Vogel Street

The corner of Queens Garden and Vogel Street.

Once upon a time the streets around Queens Garden and Vogel Street in Dunedin were some of the busiest in the country. Close to the city docks, the warehouse precinct as it became known developed into the heart of Dunedin’s wholesale trade. With some of the industries in the area being built during or immediately following the Otago gold rush, some of the older more imposing buildings are a direct result of the wealth of gold brought into the city.

The Tragedy of William Larnach

Larnach’s Castle

When it comes to Larnach’s Castle, where do you start? It could be with the fact that it’s not a castle at all, or it could be with the castle rumoured to be haunted by William Larnach himself or even the story of the rise and fall of William Larnach as a businessman in Otago. He rose to prominence as a banker at the time of the gold rush and went on to have many successes in politics, business and other industries before losing much of his fortune and falling on harder times. He built a grand house on the Otago Peninsula, was married three times, had six children and finally committed suicide in Parliament in Wellington via a gun in 1898. The tragedy even had its own intriguing twist with details pointing towards the tragedy resulting from an affair between Larnach’s third wife Constance and his youngest son Douglas.

The Blue Pools of Makarora

The Makarora River

The track across the two swing bridges that lead to the Blue Pools in Makarora have been closed since May last year. That’s due to the bridges needing repairs and ongoing maintenance work so they last. Recently, I read a news article on this very subject that outlined how visitors are ignoring the closure and making their way through to the Blue Pools anyway. This can be done one of two ways. Firstly, simply climbing over the rather large and securely fastened fence that blocks access to the bridges. Secondly, pushing through the bush and wading through the rather rapid and swift river over to the opposite bank to the pool blue. Either way, the many tourists (into the hundreds) who venture to this wonderful area end up destroying the very scenery they’ve come to see. 

Harington Point Gun Battery

Harrington Point Military Complex

The other month I went for a wander and explore at the Harington Point gun emplacements on Otago Peninsula. The site was first constructed in response to the threat of a Russian invasion in 1885 following Anglo–Russian tensions in Afghanistan. Anyway, while I was there, after scrambling up and down banks and pushing through gorse, I found one of the buildings that leads to a stairwell. From that point, it accesses other parts of the complex including subterranean communications tunnels, bunkers, observation points and a magazine and engine room.

Moeraki Village

Moeraki Village

This is right beside Fleur’s Place in the small village of Moeraki. A place that is known for its outstanding seafood cuisine. However, due to the fact that I don’t have a strong stomach for shellfish, calamari, octopus, shrimp, squid, sole, flounder or any other food source that lives in the ocean, I won’t be eating there any time soon. By all accounts it’s very good with a delightful setting to boot.

A Mediterranean Garden

Dunedin’s Mediterranean Garden 

Back in my younger days, when I was a lot less worldly and knowledgeable than I am now, I never liked spending time at a Botanical Garden. I simply couldn’t see the point. Why on earth would I want to spend time walking around looking at plants! Now, many years later I’ve come to truly appreciate a slow, quiet amble in a peaceful, tranquil setting. One such location is the Mediterranean Garden at the Dunedin Botanical Gardens. I think it’s the view I like best. Although, I always seem to get slightly lost finding it and never fail to take a wrong turn upon leaving.

Queens Park in Whanganui

Queens Park in Whanganui

The other day I somehow found myself reading an article about the North Island city of Whanganui. It was written by one of these travelling news journalists who write paid advertisements about places that are published in the disguise of ‘news’. On this occasion after spending three or four days in the city, he concluded it was an ‘amazing place buzzing with creative energy that it’s the absolute highlight of any trip.’ Apparently he had visited museums, art galleries, parks and places of natural beauty, enjoying all the charm and friendliness that Whanganui offered. Well, I have to say that my experience of the city was the complete opposite. When I was there the weather was terrible, the main business district felt a tad neglected, my hotel wasn’t much better and everyone I met or spoke to seemed a little despondent. Now I’m sure Whanganui has some lovely spots but when it comes to being a ‘city buzzing with creative energy,’ from my experience, I would have to disagree.

Heading To The North Island

The Martinborough Hotel in the North Island

At the moment I’m currently planning my next trip. I’m heading to the North Island in about 6 weeks where I’ll spend some time exploring however I’m yet to settle on a specific location. At this stage I’ve got several ideas and a number of possibilities but I’m yet to fix anything. Any suggestions?   

The Haast River

State Highway 6 & The Haast River

The Haast River Bridges’ claim to fame is that it’s New Zealand’s longest, single lane bridge. It’s 750 metres in length, it was opened in 1962, it carries State Highway 6 across the Haast River and is often considered one of the most spectacular bridges in the country. Also, depending on which direction you’re heading, State Highway 6 and the Haast River Bridge either takes you to Fox Glacier, Franz Josef, Hokitika and further on to Greymouth or through the Haast Pass to Makarora. Either direction is amazingly spectacular and well worth the trip.

Lake Wanaka

Lake Wanaka

This is the shores of Lake Wanaka on a stunning summer’s day. Doesn’t it look amazing? It’s not hard to tell why it’s one of the country’s top holiday spots in the summer months. In fact, each year between Christmas and New Years the town becomes so busy that the town’s infrastructure struggles to cope with the number of tourists and holidaymakers enjoying the sunshine and the lake. Maybe that’s why so many developments have started up in the area.

Dusk Over The Wakatipu Basin

Dusk over the Wakatipu Basin

It’s amazing how lazy you can feel after sitting by a river all day. Having done just that, by the time evening hit the Central Otago town of Arrowtown, I started to feel like some exercise might be needed. So, as dusk approached I decided to stretch my legs with a walk up Tobins Track to see the sunset over the Wakatipu Basin. Set high above the hills of Arrowtown, Tobin’s track was originally built by Irishman Thomas Tobin who won the roading contract to link the Wakatipu Basin to the Cardrona Valley in the 1870’s.

Fleur’s Place For Naturally Good Food

Fleur’s Place in Moeraki

While I was in the seaside village of Moeraki I called past Fleur’s Place, a rustic style restaurant that specialises in fresh seafood. Unfortunately, it closed during the Covid 19 pandemic when the whole hospitality industry struggled to stay open. In fact, I don’t know if it ever reopened? 

Fleur’s Place gained a great reputation for fantastic sea food and regularly received rave reviews by visitors from all over the world, including Britain’s own popular TV chef Rick Stein. In fact, when British newspaper the Daily Mail offered to fly him anywhere in the world to eat, he chose Fleur’s Place! That’s impressive.

Steampunk HQ

Steampunk HQ

Welcome to Steampunk HQ in Oamaru which is a fun place to visit. This train outside also lights up at night which is quite spectacular. Unfortunately, whenever I go past it’s always daylight. I really must go up for a night trip to photograph the lights in the evening. Also, a fun fact I read stated that not only is Oamaru the Steampunk capital of New Zealand but of the entire world. Is that true?

Akatore Creek Road at Taieri Mouth

Akatore Creek Road

I thought I should warn you that over the next few days I’m going to be skipping around the place a fair bit as I share photos with you from towns, points of interest and random curiosities I’ve discovered. So, having said that, I’ve headed just over the hill from Taieri Mouth to Akatore Creek Road which provides access to nearby farms. I actually thought this was one long driveway as it didn’t initially look like a public road. Also, a fun fact is that the nearby Akatore Creek is home to the Fernbird which is listed as an ‘at risk and declining’ species.

Visiting Olveston

The stately home of Olveston

This is the upstairs of the grand, stately home of Olveston here in Dunedin. It was built between 1904 and 1907 for wealthy English merchant David Theomin who wanted to create an English country house in the city for his wife Marie and their two children Edward and Dorothy. Olveston was a family home from the time it was built in 1906 until 1966 when Dorothy, the last remaining member of the family, passed away. It was then bequeathed to the City of Dunedin and opened to the public the following year.

Aramoana Panorama

Aramoana Panorama

This is a large scale panorama of Aramoana Beach. It’s actually made up of 17 photos that shows the entire length of the beach, the mole, Taiaroa Head and part of the harbour. To get this, I had to climb up to the top of a very large dune and then up a few rocks to a point that provided clear views in either direction. Yet, somehow coming down seemed trickier than getting up there!

Return To Harington Point Gun Emplacements

Harington Point Gun Emplacements 

The other month when I was out on the Otago Peninsula I spent a day exploring the Harington Point Battery gun emplacements on the Otago Peninsula. Originally built in response to the threat of a Russian invasion in the 1880’s, the site was added to when World War 1, then World War 2 broke out. It’s a fun place to wander around, even if it does require a little scrambling up and down banks, pushing through overgrown gorse bushes and stepping over empty spray cans.

Stunning Views From The Highcliff Track

Boulder Beach from the Highcliff Track

I do love the Highcliff Track on the Otago Peninsula. It’s a glorious place that leads to so many other tracks and that you can be spoilt for choice. My favourite route is to make my way down McMeeking Road before linking up with the Highcliff Track and continuing on down to Boulder Beach and returning via the Paradise Road Track, up to Highcliff Road. Of course, if you’re feeling adventurous and energetic, instead of going up the Paradise Track there is always the option of heading over to Sandfly Bay. If you find yourself heading that way, make sure you allow yourself some time to take in the view from the Highcliff Track looking down to Boulder Beach and out over the Peninsula. It really is stunning.

De Molen Foxton

De Molen Foxton

While driving through the North Island town of Foxton, it’s hard not to notice the very large Windmill. It’s also very hard to not be enticed to stop and visit it. Even if it’s only to look at it from the outside. After all, New Zealand doesn’t have many genuine Windmills and this is the real thing. Built to traditional Dutch plans, it is an authentic replica of a 17th-century flour mill that is totally operational. Not only that, it looks great too.

The Little Fiddle In Christchurch

The Little Fiddle In Christchurch

I made my way through streets that looked vaguely familiar. Not having a great knowledge of Christchurch’s CBD, anything past the Avon River was really a mystery to me. Yet, occasionally I found a street or location that seemed recognisable. Colombo Street was one, Manchester Street was another and then of course there was Cathedral Square. The rest looked nothing like I remember it.  But, that’s to be expected when you’re rebuilding a city! 

I made my way along streets, down passage-ways and through alleys with a simply delightful gaze in my eye. It was like discovering a whole new city and I was very much enjoying myself. I walked past new buildings that seemed to feature a style of architecture called ‘jigsaw puzzle pieces that don’t fit’ and shops that either had a minimalist vibe or were still under construction. 

Eventually, I came across a junction point for three laneways. Clearly I was approaching the food and beverage sector of the CBD as nearby there was an Italian Restaurant, a Mexican Bar, A place called ‘The Craft Embassy’ and one known as ‘The Little Fiddle’. It was this last one that caught my eye, for no other reason that it was bright red. It was covered in signs that read “Stout & Porter”, “Pedlers of fine Irish Whiskey, Beer and Wine” and “Try our hot and tasty fare.” It did look very enticing, but unfortunately I still had to navigate my way back to my car and negotiate my way through Christchurch traffic and I wasn’t too sure that alcohol would help the matter.

Glenorchy Lagoon

Glenorchy Lagoon & Boardwalk

Isn’t this an outstanding spot for a place to sit and watch the world go by? It’s part of the Glenorchy Lagoon/Boardwalk which crosses wetlands that are full of bird life and surrounded by stunning mountain ranges. The track twists, turns and loops around with multiple starting and finishing points. In addition, it’s completely flat and a really easy walk which makes it perfect for a family outing. In the summer the lagoon is still, warm and full of colour whereas in the winter the mountain ranges are covered in snow and the air has a bracing chill, making it equally delightful.        

Cherstey Book Barn

Cherstey Book Barn

The small community of Cherstey lies between the South Island towns of Rakaia and Ashburton. The great thing about Cherstey is the local Book Barn. Located in a massive disused shed that sits between the railway tracks and state highway 1, it’s one of those quirky roadside places that make driving in Aotearoa so interesting. 

Housing over an estimated 300,000 books, it’s the kind of place where you could happily spend hours rummaging through the almost endless maze of titles. If you’re lucky you might even get a free hot drink, biscuit or a few lollies for the road. 

Otago Peninsula Honesty Box

Harington Point Road  Honesty Box

With caution, I’d spent the afternoon negotiating the Otago Peninsula Road. I say with caution as there were lots of tourists in campervans and rental cars who always make the summer roads a bit of a lottery. The peninsula road begins at Andersons Bay Inlet at the head of Otago Harbour and winds its way for 26 kilometres to Taiaroa Head where there’s an albatross colony. As a drive it’s quite spectacular. The coastal road passes through small settlements, past beaches, boat moorings, marinas, boat ramps, and jetties by the dozen. Along the way there’s also places where you can see fur seals, sea lions, penguins and all manner of bird life. There’s art galleries you can visit, cafes and restaurants to pass the time at and of course the classic honesty box sitting by the odd farm gate or fence.

I must confess, there aren’t many honesty boxes that I don’t pull over at. In fact, I’ve been known to put money in the box without actually buying anything. I think it’s the element of surprise I love best. On this occasion, not only were there fresh eggs and tomatoes, but decorative paua shells and other assorted items for sale. Looking over the display, I decided that there wasn’t anything I really needed, however it didn’t seem right to leave without making some type of contribution. So, I found $4 in the car and popped it into the payment tin. I figured it was payment for the photo.

Taieri Mouth Cribs

Taieri Mouth Cribs 

I stand in front of two signs. One is a formal council sign with white lettering on a blue background that reads ‘Boat Harbour’. The second is less formal. It’s made out of a surfboard that’s stuck in the ground that has red and black lettering. It reads ‘Slow Down. Free range kids! Slow!’ As I look at the surfboard my eyes drift across the road to a crib close by. For a moment my mind skips between the words crib and batch. My thoughts linger on how the use of the word crib or batch depends on where in Aotearoa you’re from. My attention moves back to the crib, then the surfboard, then finally once more to the crib.  

The longer I look the more I notice various objects like; flagpoles, boats, flower pots, ornamental fish and a lifebuoy. My eye drifts over the whole scene and arrives back at the surfboard and a boat not far off. It all seems so very typical backyard Aotearoa

First Church In Dunedin

First Church in Dunedin 

I sit down on a shady piece of grass where the shadows of two trees meet. I’m wearing shorts, a t-shirt and jandals. On my head is a faded bucket hat and over my shoulder is a camera with a 10-22mm lens. Usually, I carry a backpack with other lenses and camera bodies, however today is different. Today I wanted to travel light. Having only one lens means I have less decisions to make. It means I become more focused on how I’m going to show the idea I have in my head. Some days it’s good to have more equipment and more options to shoot with, however today isn’t one of those days. 

The patch of grass where I now sit has been carefully chosen, it’s the spot where I have the view of the church that I want. It’s the spot that I find the most interesting, the spot that generates the most questions in my mind. Earlier, I walked around the grounds at the church at least three times to make sure I found the spot I wanted. Now, as I settle on the grass I look at the trees I’m sure I have. As the sun moves between the branches I look to a nearby park bench, then more trees. Beyond the trees is a flower bed that is filled with summer colours and past that a driveway. I turn to my right and observe a spacious grass lawn that has other church buildings sitting on the boundary line in the distance. In between all those, sits the old gothic church.

It’s not so much the church that I’m interested in, nor is it the trees, the park bench or grass but how all the objects interplay with each other. In this spot, I have questions. I have questions about the shapes, textures and spaces I see in front of me as I sit on this shady piece of grass. 

Summer Dusk At Second Beach

Stormwater Outlet at Second Beach – Buy 

I spent the evening exploring the beauty of Second Beach at St Clair. Along this stretch of beach, years of consistent wave movement have created great drifts of raggedly oval stones worn to a polished smoothness. They are nearly impossible to walk on since your feet sink with each step while at the same time having to navigate piles of driftwood that have washed up. The coast path above the beach is much easier and doesn’t require clambering up and down a bank to reach it. At any one time you’ll meet anyone and everyone from the young to old, those getting their daily fitness quota, surfers and people just enjoying a tranquil escape for 5 minutes. No matter which option you take, if it’s the beach or the path you’ll hear the sea, crashing into the shore creating a seemingly endless musical score of stones clattering on the water’s edge. It’s one of the most glorious places in Dunedin.

Kapiti Island Wildlife Sanctuary

Kapiti Island Reserve – Buy 

During the 1840s, the whaling trade/industry around parts of New Zealand had started to fade away. Kapiti Island was one of these locations. At this time, much of the land on the Island was cleared for farming and sheep, goats, pigs, deer, cats, and dogs were introduced. For the next forty to fifty years, the island was farmed until around 1900 when the government purchased most of the island and developed it into a predator-free, bird sanctuary.

Mangaweka & Cyclone Hale

The Rangitikei River – Buy

On my way through the North Island I had a look around the town of Mangaweka. I was hoping to see the DC-3 aircraft tearooms and cafe, however, to my disappointment it was no-longer in existence, having moved two years previously in 2021. For over 30 years, one of the North Island’s most famous landmarks was the elevated Douglas DC-3 aircraft installed in the middle of Mangaweka as a tearooms. Opening in 1984, it was a popular roadside stop on State Highway 1 in the central North Island until 2021 when the plane was moved and then put up for sale in 2023. 

So, with the absences of the DC-3 aircraft tearooms, I called in at the Mangarere/Rangitikei River rest stop as tropical cyclone Hale was moving down along the east coast of North Island