On a lovely bright winter’s morning, I was walking along the Karetai Track between Karetai Road and Smaills Beach when I came across a dozen or so empty beer bottles scattered in the long grass near a stone wall, next to the path. I’m sorry, but this is a scene we must examine for a moment. First of all, not only had they left the bottles but also the box, and judging by its condition it couldn’t have been sitting there more than a few days. The very least the owners might have done is put them back in the box! Secondly, to get the beer to its current location, it needed to be carried from the car park, a distance of some 50 metres. Either that or they lugged the thing up a very steep hill from the beach, and this seemed unlikely. If they (whoever they are?) went to all the trouble of carrying the beer to my present spot, I would have thought they could have taken it away with them. So, my question is this. What kind of person carries a box of beer, 50 metres along a public walking track, scatters all the empties and their rubbish round and simply disappears. Clearly my expectations of some sections of society are far too high!
Having surveyed the scene, and it was a lovely spot to take in the view, I decided there was only one course of action available. I walked back to my car, collected a reusable shopping bag and proceeded to gather up all the empty bottles and took them with me. Leaving the path a little tidier for the next person.
The beach was still and calm as I looked out over the ocean. The sky was an exquisite blend of deep blues and purples, with streaks of orange and yellow near the horizon where the sun was first appearing. The reflections of the colourful sky on the wet sand created a mesmerising effect. To my left were stairs that led up to the Esplanade, illuminated by the warm glow of the morning light. In the distance, lights started to appear as people awoke, adding to the tranquil and picturesque scene.
I found my way to the South Seas Hotel. Once inside I found a cosy bar where a dozen or so patrons were seated at an old wooden bar, engaged in conversation with the bartender. I looked around and took in the friendly, casual and relaxed atmosphere. It was then that I realised I was the only one not looking like I’d just spent a week in the bush. The place was rustic and inviting with all the charm that you’d want from a local gathering spot to relax and enjoy a drink. I decided to hang around for a bit.
Having spent the early part of the day climbing up the 253 steps to Cape Palliser Lighthouse, I couldn’t help but spare a thought for the early lighthouse keepers at the Cape. When the lighthouse was open in 1897, not only did they have to scramble up a muddy, 58 metre-high cliff to get to the lighthouse, but they had to manually haul large drums of oil and kerosene up as well. This lunacy continued for the first 15 years of operation at Cape Palliser until someone had the genius idea of putting in a set of steps! So, having explored the famous lighthouse and the nearby fishing villages, avoiding washed out sections of road, I stopped and went for a walk along the beach at Ngawi.
It was then that I noticed an extremely large and ominously dark wall of weather approaching from the south. Earlier in the day, I read that snow was forecast to fall in the Wairarapa area however that was something I’d chosen to ignore. I’d simply assumed it wouldn’t happen. After all, how often do you really believe snow will fall when it’s forecast. Now, late in the afternoon it seemed that snow was on its way.
With wind rocketing down the harbour and dark, grey skies only adding to the already cool wind that was dropping the temperature to a chilly 5 or 6 degrees, I pointed my car in the direction of Port Chalmers. Upon arrival, I took a short detour to an area known as Back Beach and the Peninsula Road to get a view of Goat and Quarantine Islands. These days, Goat and Quarantine Islands are designated as scenic reservesand places of national significance. However, once upon a time both Quarantine and Goat Islands served as quarantine stations for Otago from 1863 until 1924. When ships arrived in Otago harbour, passengers with infectious diseases were quarantined for various periods of time.
I’ve mentioned the Dunedin Gasworks Museum in South Dunedin previously. Along with the fact that it is one of only three known preserved gaswork museums in the world, making it a place of significant heritage. Operating from 1863 to 1987, it offers a bit of rustic charm to all that visit it. The only drawback being that if like me you’re just not that interested in the manufacturing, treatment, pumping and storage of gas then you’re going to find it a little boring. Funny that most of its visitors seem to be men!
Leaving the small fishing village of Taieri Mouth, I felt an urge to continue past the small township, simply because I had the time and I figured, well why not! Coming to Akatore Road which changed from the traditional tarseal to gravel, I travelled for some distance. I passed paddocks filled with sheep, farm yards, tractors and all other sorts of rural machinery that you don’t see in central Dunedin. On a whim, I called in on Taieri Beach Cemetery before rejoining Akatore Road until Akatore Creek came into view. An area that at first glance appears to be just another sleepy valley in rural Aotearoa covered in part with wetlands and swamps. Yet, it’s an area of great significance.
Located within the Tokomairiro Ecological District in the Otago Coast Ecological Region, The Akatore Creek Swamp is home to all kinds of living organisms. It’s a habitat that covers a diverse area of wetland and is an area considered nationally significant. Looking at the surrounding countryside you’d never guess, however what makes it so important is among other things, the presence of rare and threatened species such as the Fernbirds which are a declining species and the Mimulus Repens, an at-risk native plant. All of which I was quite delighted to see.
The Dunedin street art scene kicked off in around 2014 when local and international artists were invited to add colour to some of the city walls. Since then, murals have appeared all over the city. It’s really not hard to come across street art in Dunedin. One of the earlier pieces was this one by Welsh-born Sheffield-based muralist and artist Phlegm that can be found on Vogel Street on the exterior wall of Vogel Street Kitchen.
There is something about randomly walking, without agenda or purpose, that is surprisingly relaxing. This is a wee scene I spotted while strolling along Dunedin’s George Street. I think it was the angles and shapes that caught my eye.
When it comes to beaches, I seem to forget about Dunedin’s Tomahawk Beach. Maybe the reason is that it’s so close to home? I’m really not sure! It’s actually a lovely beach to walk along, when the weather is fine of course. Due to its location it can get a tiny bit windy however, on a fine day it’s a lovely walk. If you get your timing right, at low tide once you reach the end of the beach you can even continue around the point to Smaills Beach. Additionally, in 2018 Tomahawk Beach was used as a location for a British bank advertisement. It featured 20 black horses galloping along the beach in a commercial for Lloyds Bank which was called The Running of the Horses. Just how a British bank ended up filming on Tomahawk Beach is really quiet mind boggling.
Without any real intention or set purpose, I returned to the Esplanade at St Clair. I’d been there only a few days earlier, only this time was different. On the previous occasion, I’d spent a glorious afternoon exploring the rock pools surrounding the St Clair Salt Water Pool at low tide. This time however, for reasons I wasn’t sure about and with no-set agenda, I needed to walk. Now, sitting in my car, I waited a few moments for a light rain shower to pass before strolling along the beachfront. I passed both the St Clair Surf Lifesaving club and the statue of ‘Mum’ (a famous local Sea Lion) and looked out beyond rows of sand sausages – massive long tubes made of mesh, filled with sand and put in place to help slow coastal erosion. I watched the incoming tide for a few minutes, turned and headed for the far opposite end of the Esplanade. The whole area was quiet in the fading light as the street lights started to take hold. Reaching the end of the Esplanade by the Salt Water Pool, I paused beside a cafe that must have closed several hours ago. Once again I stood and watched the tide roll in, breaking against the rocks before receding out into the backwash. Every so often patches of sand became exposed, revealing leftover seaweed and driftwood that would shift and move with the tide. I took a moment to look out across the ocean. As the light had continued to fade, the sea had taken on a moody grey-blue complexion. Suddenly to my left the lights of the Hotel St Clair came on and drew my attention back to the Esplanade. In the blue hour of evening, I walked in the salty sea air as darkness held. The lights from the hotel reflected off the road’s glossy surface, created from light misty rain that had recently passed through. The glow of the lights from the hotel revealed a cleaning crew packing up from the day while the restaurant was just starting to become busy. Occasionally, a passing vehicle would slowly pass along couples holding hands, walking in the calm and quiet night air.
While driving to Glenorchy, I stopped at one of the lookouts overlooking Lake Wakatipu. The surrounding mountains were partially shrouded in dark, stormy clouds, creating a moody and atmospheric scene. The wind from a passing distant storm whipped up over the deep blue-green hues of the lake. The interplay between the stormy sky and the rugged mountain terrain added to the sense of drama and natural beauty in the image. For the life of me, I couldn’t decide if I was happy I was driving into it or not!
I was walking along the shores of Lake Wanaka as the last light of day kissed the rugged mountain peaks in the distance. Nearby, the famous “lone tree” stood resolute, its branches reaching skyward as if whispering secrets to the heavens. In the distance, silhouettes of the surrounding treelines and mountain peaks, framing in a natural embrace. The water, mirroring the sky’s palette, rippled gently around the tree’s roots, creating a sense of calm and timelessness. The whole scene was a testament to the breathtaking allure of New Zealand’s landscapes.
The other day I was feeling a bit creatively uninspired. So, to spark my thinking I spent some time reading a bit of poetry by William Blake before going for a walk listening to Blues musicians such as Muddy Waters, Howlin Wolf, BB King, Chuck Berry, Bo Diddley, Blind Willie Johnson and Robert Johnson to name a few. At some point on my walk I passed the University School of Dentistry which I decided looked interesting in Black & White.
The other morning while enjoying a cup of coffee which I hoped would awaken my senses, I read that Moeraki’s legendary seafood restaurant Fleur’s Place has permanently closed. Once considered one the best restaurants in the country, the famed rustic style restaurant gained international acclaim for specialising in fresh, local seafood. However, due to a number of reasons, the restaurant closed during the Covid 19 pandemic and has never reopened. Now, owner Fleur Sullivan has announced the doors are shut for good and the restaurant, located in the small North Otago village of Moeraki, will soon be for sale.
I found my way to the Otago University Library. Mainly because it was raining and I was wanting to wander around somewhere interesting. The rain had started while I was walking down Dunedin’s Castle Street and by the time I was approaching the Otago University, it was getting responsibly hard. Needing to find some shelter, I ducked into the Otago University Library where I figured I might as well see what creative angles I could find.
Leaving the Octagon in central Dunedin, I walked along lower Stuart Street before arriving at Dunedin Railway Station. A grand masterpiece of a building that really is magnificent in its splendour. Looking out across ANZAC Square, I couldn’t help but imagine what a hive of activity the place must have been when the station was the busiest in the country. At one time up to 100 trains a day used to arrive at the various platforms which included services from Mosgiel, Port Chalmers, Palmerston, Oamaru, Central Otago, Christchurch, Gore and Invercargill.
My destination was St Paul’s Cathedral which today stands on the northern edge of The Octagon. However, back in the 1850’s after Otago was first settled, if the Anglican Church community’s vision had come to pass, the Cathedral would now be sitting directly in the middle of the Octagon. When the plans for Dunedin city were first laid out in 1846, space for an Octagonal reserve was left in the city centre. A few years later, while the Anglican community were looking for a location to build a church, they decided the central Octagonal Reserve would be an excellent site and applied directly to the Governor-General for permission to build. One group that wasn’t happy with this idea was the Presbyterian community and when they found out about the building plans, all hell broke loose. In fact, the public outcry was so large that the Otago Superintendent William Cargil had to step in to sortout the mess. The result was the Anglican Church of St Paul’s Cathedral was moved to its now northern locale. Which, if you stand on its steps, has a pretty commanding view.
The other day I mentioned that I didn’t take nearly as many vertical photos as horizontal ones. With that statement in mind, I went looking for some unpublished vertical images to prove to myself that I actually did take them. This is one I found taken on the streets in Melbourne, Centre Place laneway to be precise. I always thought it was called Degraves Lane, however it seems that Degraves Lane is just across the road and this one has a completely different name. Either way, both lanes are filled with amazing places to eat, featuring cuisine from all over the world.
For those of you that like statistics, today’s photo was taken over 18,000 kilometres away from yesterday’s. While yesterday’s was taken while walking alongside the River Liffey in Dublin, today’s was taken at the Kerikeri Mission in Whangarei. Home to the oldest European buildings in the country. The Mission is set in a sleepy basin on a riverbank, surrounded by orchards and flowerbeds. While I was there, this man was making these massive bubble creations that really were rather impressive. They also had the added bonus of entertaining the kids.
Back to the streets of Dublin and looking across the River Liffey from Victoria Quay. This shot made me think, I don’t actually take a lot of vertical shots anymore. My first thought is always to shoot horizontally. Maybe that is something I should change.
What is it about calm, still harbours that seem so peaceful. Even on a cold winter’s day in Dunedin. With low clouds, rain and a temperature of no more than 10 degrees, looking out across the tranquil harbour, I couldn’t help but think that there was something rather serene about the whole thing.
I spent a pleasant afternoon in Melbourne, wandering its busy streets and narrow alleyways before and after lunch, admiring the Yarra River, its modern skyscrapers, historic architecture, bustling laneways and looking forward very much to seeing it in the evening. I like Melborune, partly because it is very walkable and easy to navigate thanks to all the bridges across the river, but mostly because of the trams.
Nearly 150 years ago, a man named James Speight, while feeling a little thirsty, decided to see what would happen if he mixed a few malt and hops together. Encouraged by friends Charles Greenslade and William Dawson, his newly created beverage was given the name of Speight’s and a brewery setup on Dunedin’s Rattray Street. A location that has been home to the popular draught amber ale ever since.
It was one of those idle afternoons where while there was plenty I should probably be doing, I’d put it all to one side and went off for an adventure instead. I’d been exploring the Harington Point gun emplacements on Otago Peninsula. A site that was first constructed in response to the threat of a Russian invasion in 1885. Following this, I had made my way down to the shoreline where I had a lovely time trying not to trip over! At some point in between swells, The Monarch came chugging along on one of its wildlife tours. I don’t think they were hoping for someone looking a little unbalanced, trying not to slip into the water but then every trip has a highlight!
… from a Small City. My daily musings from Ōtepoti to get you inspired. Read the blog, view the photos, embrace the creativity.
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The Karetai Walking Track
