I made my way to the Vauxhall Yacht Club which is located on the shoreline of the Otago Peninsula. The previous two evenings I’d visited the same location, only to find the sun had already disappeared from sight. Being a tad late on the preceding days hadn’t been the end of the world, I was there to get a specific shot that had been monopolising my thoughts. Upon arriving at the Yacht Club, I was delighted to find the sun seemingly suspended just above the Dunedin skyline. It created a brilliant glow of light stretching out across the harbour. I stood and watched the sun slowly disappear from sight. Then, once it had gone, I returned to my car and headed for home.
If you ever find your way to Stewart Island and staying the night in Oban, then the following day you should put some time aside to do the following.
In the morning, from Oban, walk through the village and over the hill to Golden Bay. From there, take a water taxi across Paterson Inlet to Ulva Island, a predator free, wildlife sanctuary. Once you’re at Ulva Island, take the walking track to the West End Beach where you’ll find lots of Weka along with many other bird species and not much else. If you’re lucky, everyone who is walking the island will be off exploring other tracks so I’ll have the whole place to yourself.
When I was there, I was reminded of the Gaelic phrase quietness without loneliness. I knew I wanted to photograph the scene in front of me, I just couldn’t see the finished product. So, I decided to sit and watch until I could see the image I was looking for. 1 minute turned into 2, 2 minutes turned into 10 minutes, 10 minutes turned into 15 minutes when suddenly an idea started forming in my head. Today’s image is the finished result.
When I was in Tawanui, near Owaka in The Catlins, I went walking along the Catlins River track. Like everywhere in The Catlins, it’s an amazing place that’s incredibly peaceful and serene. All spots in The Catlins seem that way, they hold a majestic quality that’s hard to describe. While walking along The Catlins River, I passed through an exotic forest that’s filled with all sorts of amazing ferns and silver beech trees that inspired this photo.
Ten kilometres south-west of Oamaru, near Maheno, is the small settlement of Gemmell’s Crossing. Named after James Gemmell from Ayreshire in Scotland, Gemmell purchased a 283 hectare property for farming near Oamaru in 1870. With the Kakanui River running close to his farm, James Gemmell used to drive his cattle over the river at the point now called Gemmell’s Crossing.
On my way back to Wellington, I made a short detour up Paekakariki Hill to the lookout. The view looking north is quite amazing as you can see out to Kapiti Island and up the western coastline.
To get to the lookout, you need to take Paekakariki Hill Road. Built in 1849 by British Army engineers with road-building gangs, it linked Wellington and Porirua with the beach road to Whanganui. The road was completed in November of that year and remained the main highway north until 1939.
Allans Beach, Hoopers Inlet, Mt Charles and inland to Harbour Cone, – Buy
Once I was back in Dunedin, I went for an exploration on the Otago Peninsula. While wandering the tracks at Sandymount, I must admit to initially being a little disappointed to find that the viewing platforms for both Lover’s Leap and the Chasm had been closed and removed. However, after spending some time on the new section of track and viewing platform which looks northeast over Allans Beach, Hoopers Inlet, Mt Charles and inland to Harbour Cone, I hadto admit, the views are even better!
By the time I arrived in Wellington it was later than I had anticipated. On my way from Palmerston North I made a number of stops along the way and while none of them were long in duration, they had all added up to making me quite a bit later than scheduled. After navigating the motorway and the various one way systems that make up Wellington’s city centre I parked near Lambton Quay, one of the main streets that runs nearly the entire length of the CBD.
It was starting to get late, and the place was unusually quiet. I walked for a few blocks and enjoyed the sights and sounds of a city at night, occasionally accompanied by groups of inebriated youths who all spoke in a gibberish sort of slur. I walked a little longer, eventually arriving back at my car whereupon I made the decision to go insearch of my hotel and the hope that the restaurant would still be open, or at least the bar!
My journey to Palmerston North was undertaken in bright sunshine, something I hadn’t seen in some days. After leaving Waiōuru I drove through Taihape, Mangaweka, Cheltenham and Fielding, arriving in Palmerston North in the early afternoon.
Before finding my accommodation, I stopped in The Square and went for a walk around. Located in the very centre of the city, The Square is 17 hectares of land that features monuments, fountains, art work and picnic areas. At one end was a large Plaza while the other end featured the usual arrangements of shops that you might expect to find in a city centre. The Square was large with small pockets of people scattered around enjoying the warm, sunny day. For a long time, I couldn’t work out what it was, however something didn’t seem right. Then it struck me, that was exactly what was wrong. It was large and open but there simply wasn’t anyone there! In a larger city, it would be filled with people but here in Palmerston North it almost seemed too big. Almost as no one was really sure what to use it for.
For a short time I walked the streets surrounding the Square before deciding to find my accommodation and a bite to eat.
10 kilometres west of the town Waiōuru in the central North Island, I arrived at a place called Tangiwai. The location of New Zealand’s worst railway accident where 151 died.
Having read a lot about the famous accident, it was a place I was very much looking forward to seeing. So, it was with intrigue and a touch of excitement that I parked my car and went for a look around. As I got out of the car, light rain began to fall and for the next half hour I wandered around the various information boards that detailed the events that took place on Christmas Eve, 1953. With the light rain that was falling and the grey, overcast sky, the place had a lonely, sombre feeling.
The tragedy was caused when part of a carter wall containing a lake on the volcano Mount Ruapehu collapsed and a torrent of water surged down the Whangaehu River. Moments before the Wellington to Auckland express train arrived at the Tangiwai bridge, it had been damaged by the fast moving lahar and the bridge collapsed when the train began to cross it. Of the 285 passengers aboard the train, 151 died. To this day it remains New Zealand’s worst Railway accident.
Leaving Parikino, I headed for the town of Raetihi which is close to the Tongariro National Park. That morning the rain had been heavy and while it was starting to ease it had left the nearby rivers high and fast flowing. I had been following the path of the Mangawhero River and I stopped near a bridge now to view it as it made its way through the valley.
Later on, I read that the name Mangawhero comes from the Maori word manga meaning “stream” and whero meaning “red”. Looking at the photos I had taken earlier in the day, that seemed to make sense.
Not far from Whanganui, I passed through the small settlement of Parikino where there was once a pā site. Dating back to the 1840’s and situated on the flat bank of the Whanganui River, the pā was used as fortification against rival war parties. I had a short look around before rejoining State Highway 4 and continuing on to the Parikino Lookout which had views across the surrounding valley’s.
Before arriving in Whanganui, I had read that the city is buzzing with creative energy and that it’s the absolute highlight of any trip. After spending 15 to 16 hours in the city, I would have to disagree.
The next day, I moved accommodation from Queenstown to Frankton as I needed to be closer to the airport. I was flying to the North Island early the following day, so I figured being a short distance from the airport would make life easier first thing in the morning. I was staying at the La Quinta Hotel and after checking-in and exploring my room for a few minutes, which included turning all the switches on and off to see what they did, I went for a walk. It was late in the day and a big bank of clouds was rolling in over The Remarkables and the Kawarau River, threatening to rain.
At Arrowtown I took Malaghans and Gorge Road (through Arthurs Point) to Queenstown. The hills were covered in clouds and the lake was darker than expected with patches of strong wind gusts creating a choppy surface in the distance. There can be no doubt that the scenery around Queenstown is quite stunning however the lake is something just as special. People often comment about the unique colour of Lake Wakatipu, which is created by glacial dust from crushed rocks falling into the lake from rivers at the head lake I had read.
As special as the scenery is, navigating the town can be something of a nightmare and deciding I couldn’t face the overcrowded town centre, I headed straight for my accommodation looking across the lake to the suburb of Kelvin Heights and The Remarkables.
Back in autumn I was fortunate enough to spend some time in Arrowtown. I say fortunate because I wasn’t meant to be there at all. I had planned to spend some time near Christchurch, but my accommodation was unexpectedly cancelled. So, I had to choose an alternative destination and Arrowtown was it. What a joy the town is during autumn when the colour takes hold.
Is it just me or is there something fascinating about old animal skulls? After leaving Butchers Dam, I ventured the short distance up the road to Conroys Dam. An historic gold mining site that was dammed in 1935 for the Last Chance Irrigation Scheme to provide irrigation for orchards on the Conroy and Earnscleaugh flats. Having arrived, I enjoyed a pleasant amble around the conservation area, which is where I spotted an old animal skull in the long grass. An object I found most captivating I must admit. For a moment I considered taking it with me but being stuck by a moment of clarity, I realised it wouldn’t fit on the mantelpiece. A while later, I continued on to Alexandra, skulless, yet knowing my wife would be a little happier with my decision.
Am I alone in thinking that driving New Zealand roads isn’t the majestic, relaxing pastime it once was? All too often the journey is filled with morons with caravans who drive at 20 km/h an hour, idiots in campervans who seem to be permanently lost and Leaf drivers who pull out in front of you and drive like they are at the front of the parade. Then, just as you break free from this challenge to your patience you come across a 10 kilometre stretch of road that is reduced to 30km/h and a single lane, just so 6 guys can fill in a pothole.
Thus it was that I found myself on a stunning Sunday afternoon in mid-January, driving in a long line of traffic through Alexandra’s dry, rocky and dramatic landscape, slowly losing the will to live! By the time I reached a place called Butchers Dam, with 10 kilometres until Alexandra, my sanity couldn’t take it any more, so I called in at Flat Top Hill Picnic and Conservation Area and went for a stroll around the lake.
Heading back to Dunedin, I decided to detour back through the Catlins and stop off at Purakaunui Falls. The falls have long been an iconic image of the Catlins and have appeared on everything from book covers to stamps and can be found south of Owaka, within the Purakaunui Scenic Reserve.
The walk to the falls was short but delightful as the track wound its way through the podocarp and beech forest, accompanied by the Purakaunui River. The falls themselves are an impressive 20 metres high as the river cascades over three tiers of rock before flowing through the Catlins and out into Purakaunui Bay.
If there is one thing I would recommend doing, it’s visiting Stewart Island and staying the night in Oban. While there, you can hike the Rakiura Track, dive with Great White Sharks, visit Ulva Island or get some of the country’s best fish and chips and eat them over looking Halfmoon Bay.
Leaving Gore I drove through Mataura before continuing on to Edendale, Darce and Rakahouka. From there, I continued on State Highway 99 and travelled through Wallacetown and Wrights Bush, which eventually led me to my destination of Riverton. I parked my car near the town bridge, went for a short walk and realised two things. The first being that Riverton is a charming town, and the second being that it occurred to me, that I didn’t have any particular reason to be there.
I made my way to Gore, New Zealand’s Country Music capital, the world capital for Brown Trout Fishing, home to Sergeant Dan the Creamoata Man, Hokonui Moonshine and the Eastern Southland Gallery. Earlier, having left Tautuku, I had double headed back to Owaka and taken the Owaka Valley Road to Clinton. From there I passed through the towns of Wairuna, Waipahi, Arthurton, Pukerau and McNab before crossing the Mataura River and arriving in Gore, ready for a bite to eat and wander around the town where there seemed to be lots of hanging baskets and no traffic lights.
I arrived at the Tautuku Walkway late in the afternoon as the sun was dropping in the sky and the evening was drawing closer. A short 30 minute walk, the track began on an old sawmilling road and changed to a board-walk that led through podocarp forest and out on the estuary flats. I stood and took in the silence before heading back to the car. I was glad I’d stopped.
After arriving in Owaka, I continued south on the Southern Scenic Route, State Highway 92. I turned right onto Catlins Valley Road, right onto Morris Saddle Road, then left which eventually brought me to the Tawanui Camping in the Owaka Valley. From there, I found the beginning of a walk along The Catlins River. Something that was a true delight.
Leaving the town of Waipiata, 15 kilometres along the road I came across Gimmerburn and a wonderful old hall. I loved it instantly! Later on I read the ‘burn’ name comes from the Scottish word for stream which was named on a survey map, created in 1850 by John Turnbull Thomson.
I arrived in the small town of Waipiata in the Maniototo close to midday. The traffic coming from Central Otago had been surprisingly light and having parked close to where the Railway Station used to stand in the centre of town, I realised I was ready to go for a stroll and stretch my legs.
A few years ago I stayed in Glenorchy for almost a week, it was quite delightful. In fact, I was greatly taken by the whole area. I’ve been there many times and every time it doesn’t fail to disappoint. One of the truly magic places to visit is the Glenorchy Walkway with its views of Mt Earnslaw, Mt Alfred and the surrounding ranges. The boardwalk traverses the wetlands just north of Glenorchy and is filled native birds that call the lagoon home. It’s very splendid.
I drove to Cromwell along the shores of Lake Dunstan. It really was a picture to behold. The lake was still and clear with the surrounding, snow covered hills reflecting in the cool, lake water. All along the shore, people were packing up campsites at the end of the long weekend. As I continued on towards Cromwell I passed roadside stalls that were advertising pine cones, honey, and horse poo, while orchards offered seasonal fruit, vegetables and nuts. The closer I got to Cromwell, the busier the traffic became till at last I found myself in a queue for petrol. If there was ever a sign that the long weekend was coming to an end, this was surely it.
The next day I headed for Luggate. Another of those small South Island towns that had developed during the Otago Gold Rush of the 1860’s as miners made their way inland in search of alluvial gold, fame and fortune. The day was still with clear blue skies as far as the eye could see while all the surrounding peaks were covered in snow and the ground lay frozen. The lakes of both Wanaka and Hawea looked tranquil, serene and undisturbed as I passed them. Having the road to myself, when added to my surroundings, the drive was calm and relaxing, almost peaceful. In fact, it wasn’t until I was close to Lake Hawea township that I came across other traffic. This annoyed me somewhat. In the short time I had been on the road I had started to consider it my own private highway and now discovering I had to once again share it, I was a little displeased. So, I turned to the radio for comfort.
A short while later I reached my destination of Luggate. I had read that there was a red bridge of some significance in the area which I felt obligated to see. After a short argument with my wifi connection and Google Maps, I located it not far away, spanning the Clutha River. Listed as a local icon, the Luggate Grandview Bridge is on the local council’s historic register. It was opened on October 28, 1915, and has been described as ‘one of the most attractively proportioned steel truss road bridges in the country.’ I stood looking at it for a few moments watching cars and campervans slowly make their way across, secretly hoping that it would suddenly collapse in front of me. Making for a very drymatic and historic photo. However, since I had to drive back across it to get to Luggate, I decided I was thankful it was made of such sturdy construction and that it could collapse at a different time, when it would disrupt my own travel plans. It was around this point in my thinking that I noticed my fingers and toes were growing extremely cold and that I wasn’t much of a bridge enthusiast. So, I headed for my car and pointed it in the direction of Luggate and further on, Cromwell.
As I once again followed the Haast River along State Highway 6 (the Haast Pass-Makarora Road), it was at a place called Greenstone Creek that I decided that the rain wasn’t going to stop anytime soon. By the time I got to a place called Harris and Glitterburn Creek I noticed the rain seemed to be getting harder and at Roy’s Creek the river levels seemed a lot higher than earlier. Still, I pressed on back to Makarora, past waterfalls that had names such as Depot, Roaring Billy, Thunder, Diana and Fantail before the steep ascent through the top of the Haast Pass. It was then that the rain turned to snow. Not more than three hours earlier the same road had been covered in nothing more than rain. Now, it was covered in snow, thick mountain snow with large snowflakes that were settling quickly on the ground. Just before the summit of the pass I reached several vans that had stopped and at the summit itself, under the trees a gathering of vans and four-wheels drives were celebrating the winter snowfall with a liquid afternoon tea. Not being able to resist, I stopped for a bit and enjoyed the thick, new fallen snow that covered the pass. It almost seemed impossible to believe that this was the same place I’d driven through, earlier in the day. Late in the afternoon as I arrived back in Makarora the valley was surrounded with snow while beyond the mountains the sun was starting to set. It was all rather pretty.
In the morning it was raining and a light dusting of snow covered the surrounding mountains. The rain had started sometime overnight and it had been pretty hard ever since. After shuffling around my room and sorting myself for the day, I loaded my car and set off for the small West Coast town of Haast. A drive that was around 80 kilometres and would take me over the Haast Pass, a mountain pass in the Southern Alps of the South Island.
The journey to Haast took me just over an hour and it rained all the way. In fact, the closer to the West Coast I got, the harder it rained. By the time I reached the hustle and bustle of Haast, the rain was torrential. I ate lunch in the car by the bridge and contemplated why people might want to live in Haast. With the rain showing no sign of stopping and Haast having very little hustle and no bustle, I headed back to Makarora.
… from a Small City. My daily musings from Ōtepoti to get you inspired. Read the blog, view the photos, embrace the creativity.
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Sunset at Vauxhall – Buy 
Silver Beech Trees In The Catlins – 
