Glenorchy Walkway – Buy
A few years ago I stayed in Glenorchy for almost a week, it was quite delightful. In fact, I was greatly taken by the whole area. I’ve been there many times and every time it doesn’t fail to disappoint. One of the truly magic places to visit is the Glenorchy Walkway with its views of Mt Earnslaw, Mt Alfred and the surrounding ranges. The boardwalk traverses the wetlands just north of Glenorchy and is filled native birds that call the lagoon home. It’s very splendid.
Lake Dunstan near Cromwell – Buy
I drove to Cromwell along the shores of Lake Dunstan. It really was a picture to behold. The lake was still and clear with the surrounding, snow covered hills reflecting in the cool, lake water. All along the shore, people were packing up campsites at the end of the long weekend. As I continued on towards Cromwell I passed roadside stalls that were advertising pine cones, honey, and horse poo, while orchards offered seasonal fruit, vegetables and nuts. The closer I got to Cromwell, the busier the traffic became till at last I found myself in a queue for petrol. If there was ever a sign that the long weekend was coming to an end, this was surely it.
The Red Bridge – Buy
The next day I headed for Luggate. Another of those small South Island towns that had developed during the Otago Gold Rush of the 1860’s as miners made their way inland in search of alluvial gold, fame and fortune. The day was still with clear blue skies as far as the eye could see while all the surrounding peaks were covered in snow and the ground lay frozen. The lakes of both Wanaka and Hawea looked tranquil, serene and undisturbed as I passed them. Having the road to myself, when added to my surroundings, the drive was calm and relaxing, almost peaceful. In fact, it wasn’t until I was close to Lake Hawea township that I came across other traffic. This annoyed me somewhat. In the short time I had been on the road I had started to consider it my own private highway and now discovering I had to once again share it, I was a little displeased. So, I turned to the radio for comfort.
A short while later I reached my destination of Luggate. I had read that there was a red bridge of some significance in the area which I felt obligated to see. After a short argument with my wifi connection and Google Maps, I located it not far away, spanning the Clutha River. Listed as a local icon, the Luggate Grandview Bridge is on the local council’s historic register. It was opened on October 28, 1915, and has been described as ‘one of the most attractively proportioned steel truss road bridges in the country.’ I stood looking at it for a few moments watching cars and campervans slowly make their way across, secretly hoping that it would suddenly collapse in front of me. Making for a very drymatic and historic photo. However, since I had to drive back across it to get to Luggate, I decided I was thankful it was made of such sturdy construction and that it could collapse at a different time, when it would disrupt my own travel plans. It was around this point in my thinking that I noticed my fingers and toes were growing extremely cold and that I wasn’t much of a bridge enthusiast. So, I headed for my car and pointed it in the direction of Luggate and further on, Cromwell.
Snow on the Haast Pass– Buy
As I once again followed the Haast River along State Highway 6 (the Haast Pass-Makarora Road), it was at a place called Greenstone Creek that I decided that the rain wasn’t going to stop anytime soon. By the time I got to a place called Harris and Glitterburn Creek I noticed the rain seemed to be getting harder and at Roy’s Creek the river levels seemed a lot higher than earlier. Still, I pressed on back to Makarora, past waterfalls that had names such as Depot, Roaring Billy, Thunder, Diana and Fantail before the steep ascent through the top of the Haast Pass. It was then that the rain turned to snow. Not more than three hours earlier the same road had been covered in nothing more than rain. Now, it was covered in snow, thick mountain snow with large snowflakes that were settling quickly on the ground. Just before the summit of the pass I reached several vans that had stopped and at the summit itself, under the trees a gathering of vans and four-wheels drives were celebrating the winter snowfall with a liquid afternoon tea. Not being able to resist, I stopped for a bit and enjoyed the thick, new fallen snow that covered the pass. It almost seemed impossible to believe that this was the same place I’d driven through, earlier in the day. Late in the afternoon as I arrived back in Makarora the valley was surrounded with snow while beyond the mountains the sun was starting to set. It was all rather pretty.
Track to the Blue Pools – Buy
I drove on to Makarora, a place I hadn’t been to in over thirty years. In my early teens, as a family we had taken a holiday up the West Coast of the South Island and we’d stopped in places like Makarora and Haast. I vaguely recall staying in Haast, yet try as I might I couldn’t for the life of me remember visiting Makarora.
As I headed along Stage Highway 6 the sight of Lake Wanaka gave way to the braided Makarora River which starts life in the Southern Alps Mountain Range and flows into the head of Lake Wanaka. Before long I was passing farmland that had been saturated with recent rain and surrounded by peaks that formed part of the Southern Alps, arriving in the tiny settlement of Makarora West and Wonderland. This was going to be my base for the next few days, however upon arrival and after carefully studying a sign in the reception window I discovered that I was a tad early with check-in not available for several hours.
With a bit of time to spare, I pointed the car in the direction of the famous Blue Pools in the Mount Aspiring National Park and set off with the comforting thought that it was a sunny day and I could take my time. I had read that what makes the Blue Pools so striking is the deep, clear water that flows from the Makarora River. Tucked among mature beech and podocarp forest, it is listed as one of the Department of Conservations best short walks in New Zealand. So, you can imagine my disappointment when I arrived at the car park for the Blue Pools only to find a large sign saying the two swing bridges that lead to the Blue Pools were closed due to the bridges having reached the end of their life. It also went on to advise that while the track was open, access to the Blue Pools wasn’t possible. Not wanting to waste a good bush walk, the best I could figure was that a walk through the forest would still be nice and rivers are always pleasant to watch, so I happily set off following the track into the bush. For the next 20 minutes I ambled, I strolled and wandered, listening to the birds, eventually reaching the river and the first swing bridge which was in fact closed and impassable.
I had a look around the river bank for a while, the river was swift and a lovely turquoise colour which hinted at what the Blue Pools must be like. A sign on the bridge warned people not to attempt to cross the river. Clearly the Blue Pools would have to wait for another day. I found my way back to my car and headed back to Makarora and Wonderland.
Lake Hawea – Buy
Just before the final drive into Wanaka you arrive at the State Highway 6 turnoff to Lake Hawea, and the Haast Pass which eventually takes you all the way to the West Coast of the South Island. Having left Alexandra earlier that day, and after passing through the towns of Clyde and Cromwell, I had found myself wanting to stretch my legs and had considered stopping off at the National Transport and Toy Museum which is just after the town of Luggate on the way to Wanaka. I was also tempted to call in to Puzzling World, another tourist attraction on the way to Wanaka that features an outdoor maze and multiple rooms filled with optical illusions. Puzzling world was started by Stuart and Jan Landsborough in 1973 when they sold their house and brought a barren piece of land on the outskirts of Wanaka (which had a population of just 800 people at the time) and told everyone they were going to build a lifesize maze made out of wooden planks. Everyone quite rightly thought they were crazy, however before Covid 19 hit in 2020, the maze was drawing 200,000 visitors a year. Which just goes to show that people will happily pay $27.50 to voluntarily get themselves confused and lost!
Resisting the temptation to stop at some of the local tourist attractions, I took the Haast Pass turn off and followed State Highway 6 towards Albert Town Lake Hawea and my final destination of Makarora. It only took a few moments to reach Albert Town. A place that isn’t really a town at all. To me, the name sounds like it should be an historic gold mining town or a settlement fashioned on the American West that is filled with saloon’s that have hitching posts out the front. In fact, it is little more than an oversized housing development that started in farmland to satisfy the need for more accomodation in the area. After Albert Town is Lake Hawea. With a town at the foot of the lake, Hawea is quickly becoming an alternative holiday destination to nearby Wanaka and Queenstown. An ominous sign to anyone who enjoys its tranquillity. The lake itself is fairly impressive as it’s the ninth largest in the country, it is 35 km in length, it covers 141 km² and is 392 metres deep. Which makes it a pretty decent place to visit all things considered. I carried on State Highway 6 which followed the line of the lake, occasionally stopping at viewing points to take in the scenery, eventually reaching the head of the lake where the road passed between the mountains and for a brief time I travelled alongside the head of Lake Wanaka before leaving it behind heading into Makarora.
The Hawkdun Range– Buy
The amazing thing about Central Otago is that you can find yourself in some wonderfully isolated areas. On one occasion, having based myself in the Ida Valley, I spent a day driving roads I hadn’t been down before. My rule was simple, where possible I wanted to take turn-offs that would lead me to the unknown.
The Hills Of Clyde – Buy
I would like to suggest, and I’m talking from experience, that walking the hills above Clyde on a winter’s morning really is a unique experience. What made it all the more interesting was the fact that it was dark when I set out, there was a hard frost on the road, snow on the surrounding peaks and it was at least minus 4.
I knew there was a lookout somewhere nearby, a bartender had told me about it the previous night and I had set out in the predawn darkness with lofty ambitions to find it. That morning, when I reached a point that was more ice than road, I left my car parked in a spot where I hoped I would find it again and enjoyed walking the hills on a winter’s morning.
Observation Rock on Stewart Island – Buy
It was late in the day and I had set myself the task of making it up to Observation Rock above the Stewart Island town of Oban before sunset. When I first read the title of Observation Rock, I’d imagined it being the end point of a long, mountain hike in a remote part of the wilderness. Instead, I discovered it was a short 20 minute walk from the town that resulted in magnificent views over Thule and Golden Bay and out to Paterson Inlet. The only issue being the short but steep walk to get there!
De Molen Windmill in Foxton – Buy
In New Zealand, you don’t get many opportunities to go inside a working Windmill. To be clear, I’m not meaning a wind farm which produces power. I mean the traditional type of Windmill which grounds wheat into flour.
Fortunately, Foxton in the North Island has a Windmill, and a very fine Windmill at that. So, when I just happened to be passing through the small North Island town, I couldn’t turn down the chance to see the De Molen Windmill. Still in complete working order, the De Molen is a full size 17th century replica of a Dutch flour mill. A must do if you’re passing through Foxton.
Dawn at the beach – Buy
It was a quarter to 7 in the morning and my head was throbbing. The previous evening I’d decided it would be a good idea to get up early and capture the sunrise at the beach. The idea had been sound in theory, however now in the early morning dawn I was starting to have my doubts. My temples had a pulsating sensation which told me I either had an intense hangover or a head cold was coming on. Since I hadn’t been drinking the night before, I deduced it must be a cold.
After ten to fifteen minutes of taking photos of the sunrise as the dawn broke, I made the decision to go in search of another coffee, hoping it would help.
St Bathans Reflections – Buy
While staying at the haunted Vulcan Hotel in St Bathans, I took the time to wander around the Blue Lake. Situated directly across the road from the pub, the lake is 800 metres long, 50 metres deep and completely man made. During the Otago gold rush, around the time of 1887, Saint Bathans transformed into a bustling town with nearly 2,000 miners living in the immediate vicinity. When the town was flooded with miners during the gold rush, the nearby Kildare Hill was transformed into a pit due to extensive sluicing operations. The pit was later filled with water and man into a lake.
The lake really is amazing and it was while walking along one of the tracks that I started to ponder what St Bathans would be like without the lake. Would the town still hold the attractive quality it does if it didn’t have the lake? I think it would!
Poetry of Wellington– Buy
All around the Wellington Waterfront there are these pieces of poetry, made in concert. I really like them, it’s like finding a wee bit of creative surprise when you’re least expect it. One morning as the sea mist was rising over the harbour, I was photographing some buildings as they emerged from their covered veil. During my wanderings I found amongst a group of plants a quotation from New Zealand Playwrite. I can’t remember what it was or who had written it, but after that I started noticing them everywhere! I later discovered they are part of the Wellington Writers Walk which was started in March, 2002.
‘Blue rain from a clear sky.
Our world a cube of sunlight – but to the south
the violet admonition of thunder.’
From Blue Rain by Alistair Te Ariki Campbell
Rain clouds over Second Beach – Buy
It had been raining since early the previous morning. I had hoped it would clear but with every passing minute, it was becoming obvious that the weather had settled in for a long stay. The rain seemed to be passing over in patches that varied between light drizzle and heavy rain. Summing up the situation, I decided that I was going to get wet no matter what I did and with that, I went for a walk on the beach.
The Ida Burn – Buy
There are many amazing and magnificent features about Central Otago. My favourite being that it feels like another world. It really does have its own characteristics and qualities that make it such a special place. I hope it remains the unspoiled beauty it is now.
Kaka Point – Buy
I found my way to Kaka Point in the Catlins and parked near the beach. It was one of those days where the wind seemed to swirl across the top of the water and washed waves ashore onto the beach at strange angles.
The drive from Dunedin had taken over an hour. After passing through Balclutha I turned off State Highway 1 and headed towards the coast. As I passed houses and farms I noticed the weather seemed to be turning a dark shade of grey. Once the coastline came into view, I followed it for some time before arriving in the small village of Kaka Point. Leaving my car parked near a sign advising visitors like myself of the local wildlife, I went for a stroll.
Happy Birthday June
June is a lovely lady who comments every day on my blog posts. She’s been doing it for several years now and it’s always great to hear from her. You can read her comments by scrolling to the bottom of each post. So, since today is her birthday I wanted to take a moment and say June, I hope you have a lovely day.
The Lindis Pass – Buy
The Lindis Pass is another stunning area of New Zealand and vastly different in winter and summer. During winter, it’s often full of snow and ice with caution being advised when the road is open. In summer, it’s a landscape from another world with its dry, sun burnt textures.
Set between the Lindis and Ahuriri Rivers, the pass was often used by Māori as they travelled around the land. Then, in 1857 surveyor John Turnbull traversed the area and named it after his home, Lindisfarne island in north-east England.
Wellington CBD – Buy
It was a morning where upon awakening and venturing out into the city, I discovered that Wellington had disappeared under a blanket of fog. This was something I hadn’t been expecting and somewhat altered my plans. The fresh, new light I’d been wanting to see was replaced with a heavy blanket of harbour fog. So, I spent the early part of the day taking photos of the fog, until it started to lift and Wellington city was revealed.
Paraparaumu Beach – Buy
My intention was to photograph the sun setting beyond Kapiti Island on the West Coast of the North Island. It was a lovely clear evening and to the north the coast stretched up all the way up to the coastal communities of Peka Peka, Ōtaki and Waitārere Beach. To the south, in the distance the coastline reached Raumati South, Paekākāriki before linking into Pukerua Bay.
The Haka Valley – Buy
The morning was unbelievably cold. That was until the first sign of sun appeared over the Campbell Hills in the Hakataramea Valley. Tucked away in the Waimate District, the Hakataramea Valley sits between the Kirkliston Range and the Hunter Hills in the South Island of New Zealand.
The Hooker Valley – Buy
The walk through The Hooker Valley is rated as one of the best walks in the country and it’s not hard to see why. Starting at the White Horse car park, the track begins by passing the Alpine Memorial and Freda’s Rock before the Mueller Glacier comes into view. The track crosses the Hooker River, it ventures into the wider valley and open tussock which includes three swing bridges that need to be crossed. After passing over the third swing bridge, the path leads to the source of the Hooker River and amazing views of Hooker Lake.
The Glenorchy Lagoon Boardwalk – Buy
The Glenorchy Lagoon Boardwalk is an amazing place. On a calm day, the mountain peaks reflect in the lagoon, while native bird life such as the pied stilt and the South Island pied oystercatcher fill the area. If you’re lucky you might even spot The New Zealand falcon soaring above the wetlands.
The Beautiful Colours Of Blackhead Beach – Buy
Given the nature of what a stunning autumn day it was, and with the winter months looming on the horizon, I wasn’t sure how many more I would see. So, I ended up on the south coast of Dunedin at Blackhead Beach. The day was still, full of colour and the beach was filled with people making the most of the warm, summer-like afternoon.
Bray at dusk – Buy
I was heading to Clover Hill in South Bray, not that I really knew where that was. Even on the way there, I can’t say I was completely sure where I was going. I’d left Dublin by train and around 40 minutes later I arrived at the train station in Bray. From there, I walked down Quinsborough Road, which took me past the lovely Duncairn Terrace which was lined with multi-storey houses that were filled with lights and while Christmas decorations hung in the window. Further on, as Quinsborough Road turned into Herbert Road and the terraced houses turned into shops the last of the sunlight disappeared on what was an usually warm, winters evening.
The Wheel of Brisbane – Buy
My final stop of my night walk in Brisbane was ‘The Wheel of Brisbane’ located in Southbank Parklands. I had started out before dusk at the Brisbane Central Railway Station and spent the rest of the time simply wandering aimlessly from place to place, looking at nothing in particular. After a while, I made my way through King George Square, headed along Ann Street and crossed over the Brisbane River on the Kurilpa Bridge. From there, I made my way along the South Bank which was busy with cyclists who seemed to have no regard for anyone but themselves. So, I filled some time walking at annoying angles so they’d have to swerve to miss me. Eventually, with no more cyclists to irritate, I turned my attention back to my walk and the Wheel of Brisbane which was glowing in the distance.
The Crown Liquor Saloon – Buy
I went here on advice and I was really pleased I did. Known as ‘The Crown Bar’ but also the ‘Crown Liquor Saloon’, it’s one of the most famous pubs in Belfast. Dating back to 1826 and refurbished in 1885, it had the reputation as one of the finest Victorian gin palaces in the British Isles that features stained glass windows, mosaic tiling, an amazing carved ceiling. There are also 10 snugs that were made for the more reserved customer in the Victorian area that still has the original gun metal plates for striking matches and antique alarm bell system for alerting staff for service. It’s a true masterpiece in bar design and architecture.
A symphony of lights – Buy
The Symphony of Lights show in Hong Kong really is something quite amazing. Starting nightly at 8:00pm, it’s a 15 minute spectacular of light and sound that luminates Victoria Harbour. The best viewing locations for the nightly spectacle are the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront outside the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, the Avenue of Stars, the promenade at Golden Bauhinia Square in Wanchai or from sightseeing ferries in the harbour.
Originally started by the Hong Kong Tourism Board in 2004, the show is set to an orchestra of music and features lights, lasers, fireworks and other multimedia light and sound displays from over 50 buildings that participate in the show. It also holds the world record for the largest permanent light and sound show.
The Remarkables at dusk – Buy
Usually, when I travel to the Queenstown-Lakes District I generally try to avoid Queenstown by either staying in Arrowtown or continuing up Lake Wakatipu to Glenorchy. Last year, for something different, I went through Frankton and headed down the lake to Kingston.
Recently, needing to travel to Wellington, I decided to fly from Queenstown rather than Dunedin, but wanting to avoid Queenstown I stayed a night in Frankton. After driving 3 and a half hours from Dunedin, I found my hotel, unpacked and walked outside to be just in time for the sun to be setting behind The Remarkables as a large bank of cloud was rolling in at the end of the day.
Chimney stack on the Maniototo– Buy
In places like the Ida Valley, Blackstone Hill, Kyeburn, Patearoa and near the Rock and Pillar there are old structures scattered all around the place. They are like a window into the past that tell stories of human existence, past lives and hint at a sense of belonging in a timeless place.
Looking over the land, I like the questions those old structures ask and how they hint towards a forgotten human presence. Here, a crumbling chimney stack sits in a dry and sunburned field, just beyond a small pond in the wide open spaces of The Maniototo.
The Cliffs – Buy
I drove to Cargills Castle on the cliffs above St Clair. Well, to be precise, I drove to the area that Cargills Castle is located in and walked around the neighbourhood looking for a good view of the historic building. That’s because the house is now completely surrounded by suburban homes. To get to the building you need to trespass across multiple driveways and properties, something the neighbourhood is clearly sick of as the whole suburb is filled with signs like ‘Private Driveway’, ‘No Trespassing – Private Property’ and ‘Private Property – Keep out!’ The Castle is actually nothing like a castle, is more of a stately home that has fallen into ruin through years of neglect. In the mid 1990’s the building was so derelict that the ballroom was demolished and the rest would have followed suit if the Cargill’s Castle Trust had not been formed and bought the building for $180,000.