I rolled through the city of Invercargill. I’m never too sure what to make of Invercargill. Whenever I’m there, the place always seems to have a quiet, sleepy feel. This occasion was no different. I had a look around by walking up one side of the main shopping district and back down the other. It was quiet, very very quiet. I walked a total of four city blocks and only saw a handful of people the entire time. This seemed strange, even for Invercargill. The city itself was surveyed by British civil engineer John Turnbull Thomson who emigrated to New Zealand in early 1856 before working as Chief Surveyor of the Otago Province until 1873. I began thinking about him, as I crossed a depressingly empty street. By the time I reached the other side, I decided he must have been an optimist. Someone with a utopian vision for New Zealand’s southernmost city. Why else would he design the streets so humongously wide? Honestly, they seem massively wide. You could sail the RMS Titanic along the main street and still have room for the RMS Carpathia to come to its rescue.
Dune Protection at Smails Beach
Dune protection at Smails Beach
While driving along the winding roads of the Otago Peninsula, I stopped at a number of scenic spots. One of them was Smails Beach. Nestled on the Otago coast near the start of the peninsula, it features long stretches of smooth white sand, great surf, sweeping views, and a variety of wildlife.
Apart from a few lazy sea lions and a gathering of overly aggressive red-billed gulls, I had the beach to myself. The tide had left large mounds of seaweed scattered across the sand from high tide. With time on my hands, I strolled to the far end of the beach, clumsily climbing a few sand dunes to get a different perspective on the way back. It was while descending one of these dunes that I spotted an old fence line, half-buried in the sand. Intrigued by the angles, I set up my tripod and camera. As I focused on the vista in front of me, lost in thought, I felt a tap on my shoulder.
I looked up to see a smartly dressed man in his mid-thirties grinning at me like he’d just won the lottery or on some really fantastic drug.
“Say, what type of camera have you got?” he asked.
“A black one,” I always think about replying.
I won’t bore you with the rest of the conversation, but seriously—why? Why do people feel compelled to interrupt me mid-photo just to talk about their own camera and its features? I don’t go around interrupting people on the phone, saying:
“Hey, I’ve got an iPhone 11 Pro. Mine’s space gray! Does yours have the Super Retina XDR display with a 5.8-inch OLED Multi-Touch screen with HDR and True Tone wide color?”
Thankfully, just as I began to think I’d be stuck in that conversation forever, a DOC ranger appeared, and suddenly sea lion pups became much more interesting to my new friend. I took this opportune moment to beat a hasty retreat or should I say escape.
Sandymount Recreational Reserve
Sandy Mount Recreational Reserve walking track
I spent the morning exploring the Otago Peninsula. Eventually coming across the Sandymount Recreational Reserve. There used to be tracks that led to natural land features called the Chasm and Lover’s Leap but those old tracks are now closed and there are mean spirited warning signs that tell you so; ‘Warning significant falls exist.’ ‘High winds and falling trees – beware!’ ‘Unstable land and high cliffs-keep to marked tracks’ and ‘Brodifacoum Poison do not eat!’
Fortunately the new track leads to a viewing platform that offers a stunning vista looking out over Allans Beach, Hoopers Inlet, Mt Charles and inland to Harbour Cone, so you’re not really missing too much. However, on this occasion, the track was closed as the farmer was separating Lambs from Ewes or doing some other farm-ish activity I didn’t understand. So, I amused myself by walking through the trees trying to guess how old they were. My estimate was 376 years, 4 months and 17 days. Though, I’m willing to admit I might be slightly off!
Stirling Point in Bluff
I was in Bluff. The last time I was standing at the southern tip of the country, it was a bracing 5 degrees. That day, the weather had been miserable. The rain was heavy, a southerly roared across Foveaux Strait and inland somewhere it was snowing. On this occasion, the weather was a more agreeable 18 degrees. A few wispy clouds hung in the sky while a gentle, cool ocean breeze drifted in from somewhere beyond. This was Bluff-Stirling Point at its absolute best. The small car park was full to overflowing and while some had gotten creative with their parking, others were applying the wait and hover method, while I, striking a moment of good fortune, simply guided gracefully into a spot that appeared in front of me like the parting of the Red Sea. Pleased with my luck, I set off along a walking track. There was a skip in my step and a whistle on my lips.
Driving in Lower Hutt
While in the North Island I did something rather foolish. I drove through Lower Hutt on Christmas Eve! What I was thinking, I really don’t know! I had been at the Queens Gate Mall where among other things, I went for a pee and deliberately walked against the flow of shoppers for some festive merriment. The real chaos hit when I left—traffic was horrendous! The road layout had clearly been designed by someone with an obsession for roundabouts. I’ve never seen so many in one place outside of a small English village. I drove through five within 700 meters! That’s right-Five! According to the New Zealand Transport Agency, ‘roundabouts simplify decision making for drivers’ and ‘help traffic flow’. That is, unless you drive through Lower Hutt in the afternoon on Christmas Eve. Then, they are just plain maddening and a tiny bit annoying.
Rydges Hotel at Wellington Airport
I spent the night at the Rydges Hotel at Wellington Airport. At first, for reasons I can’t explain, I was sceptical about staying in such a place. I assumed it would be pricey and beyond my means – but I was wrong. It was reasonably priced, spotlessly clean, comfortable, cozy and with incredibly convenient access to the airport. Right beside the terminal! This proved most useful in the morning. I went from being in my pyjamas at 7:30 am to standing at the check-in kiosks at 7:55 am and I wasn’t even late, in a rush or making a panicking run across the airport in a vain attempt to get to a flight that was determined to leave without me (this has happened before).
That morning, I woke to bright sunshine streaming through the curtains. I made a coffee, read my book, made another coffee and at around 7:30 am decided with check-in closing at 8:15 am, I’d better get dressed. So, I completed my morning ablutions and minutes later presented myself at the check-in kiosks. I then proceeded through the necessary security checks and found a seat beside the allotted gate number, well rested and fresh as daisy. All without stepping outside, it was most civilised. I highly recommend it!
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Summer Change At Lawyers Head
The warmth of the afternoon that had seemingly lingered forever, finally gave way late in the day. The clear blue skies had been engulfed by a dark, mood bank of cloud that had rolled in, bringing with it intense wind gusts that seemed intent on battering everything in its path. The once calm and peaceful blue ocean had been transformed into a brooding, angry mass that was beginning to churn and swell into the rocky shoreline of Lawyers Head and beyond to St Kilda beach. Far off in the distance the gathering clouds gave an ominous prediction of heavy rain. The once lovely summer’s day had suddenly changed, almost as if by the flick of a switch.
Low Tide At St Clair
The light melted into the horizon, as evening hues spread across the calm, mirror-like ocean. I waded in the still water, the lingering warmth of the day remaining present for a few minutes. The shoreline curved gently, its silhouette darkness against the glow of the setting sun. Waves lapped lazily around my ankles, the world quieting with each fading ray.
Dusk In The Dunes
Dusk in sand dunes at St Kilda beach
The evening light set the ocean alight with warm hues of orange, yellow and blue as I walked through the dunes. Nearby the gentle swell rolling toward the shore. It was early summer, and the air, filled with salt, carried the last traces of the day’s warmth. Silhouetted hills loomed in the distance while sea grasses swayed lazily on the dunes. The quiet beauty of the sunset fading as the light dipped.