The Dunedin and Port Chalmers Railway Line

Daily Photo – Ravensbourne Overbridge

The Dunedin and Port Chalmers railway line has the distinction of being New Zealand’s first public railway. The story begins in the early 1870s, Otago was booming from the gold rush and Dunedin was effectively the country’s commercial capital. As Dunedin grew, the nearby docks at Port Chalmers became the region’s lifeline with everything being shuttled by horse, cart, or boats around the harbour. Eventually, a fast, reliable railway link between the harbour and the city was considered essential and the new line promised speed, efficiency, and a bit of flair.

The work was undertaken by the Otago Provincial Council who controversially gave the contract to a British firm called John Brogden and Sons. The Brogdens were Victorian railway builders of the formidable, moustachioed variety. They arrived with boatloads of workers, crates of equipment and a confidence that suggested they knew what they were doing. 

It was then that things got messy. Many of the workers arrived expecting plenty of work and good wages, only to discover there wasn’t, conditions were poor, the workers were often drunk, there were wage disputes, demands for better housing while the Brogdens’ were accused of inflated claims, and demands for extra payments. Not only was progress slow, the whole project became an administrative, political and financial tug-of-war between local and central government. All of which made the project a pretty consistent mess for a simple 12 twelve kilometres of track. The line itself was not simple. The track had to thread its way along the steep harbour edge, where cliffs met water and space was tight, extensive cuttings and embankments were required and many large stone retaining walls were required to make the track safe. 

Fortunately, the line was finished in time and officially opened on 31 December 1873 and almost immediately transformed the movement of merchants, passengers, mail, and freight between the port and the city. Unfortunately, for John Brogden & Sons, by the 1880s their business empire had collapsed and faced financial ruin.

The Quiet Night Air of the Esplanade

Daily Photo – The Quiet Night Air of the Esplanade

I waited a few moments for a light rain shower to pass before strolling along the beachfront. I passed both the St Clair Surf Lifesaving club and the statue of ‘Mum’ (a famous local Sea Lion) and looked out beyond rows of sand sausages – massive long tubes made of mesh, filled with sand and put in place to help slow coastal erosion. I watched the incoming tide for a few minutes, turned and headed for the far opposite end of the Esplanade. The whole area was quiet in the fading light as the street lights started to take hold. Reaching the end of the Esplanade by the Salt Water Pool, I paused beside a cafe that must have closed several hours ago. Once again I stood and watched the tide roll in, breaking against the rocks before receding out into the backwash. Every so often patches of sand became exposed, revealing leftover seaweed and driftwood that would shift and move with the tide. I took a moment to look out across the ocean. As the light had continued to fade, the sea had taken on a moody grey-blue complexion. Suddenly to my left the lights of the Hotel St Clair came on and drew my attention back to the Esplanade. In the blue hour of evening, I walked in the salty sea air as darkness held. The lights from the hotel reflected off the road’s glossy surface, created from light misty rain that had recently passed through. The glow of the lights from the hotel revealed a cleaning crew packing up from the day while the restaurant was just starting to become busy. Occasionally, a passing vehicle would slowly pass along couples holding hands, walking in the calm and quiet night air.

Otago Harbour Sunset

Daily Photo – Otago Harbour Sunset

That evening I went for a slow walk along one of the tracks on the top ridgeline of the peninsula. It was late in the day and, with just enough time left before sunset, I spent a short while making random stops, pushing my way through long grass and tripping over hidden rocks while the sky shifted through a range of colours. It had been a long day and my feet were tired, I was hungry and ready for a drink. I found a rock and sat for a moment letting the last light disappear while I paused to take in a final view of Otago Harbour. It had been a good day.

King Edward Technical College

Daily Photo – King Edward Technical College

Later in the day I went into a café near the Octagon, bought a Coke, and sat in the window with the book I’d been reading. I read for a minute or two before finding myself simply watching the passing scene. It was surprisingly busy for a weekday afternoon. People stood in large groups on the footpath, looking lost and pointing in all sorts of directions before  shuffling off at more or less the same time in more or less the same direction.

I watched all this with great fascination, occasionally sipping my drink and abandoning my book entirely. Then it hit me like a bolt of lightning. I knew exactly who these people were: cruise ship passengers. Suddenly everything made sense. The guidebooks, the cameras, the maps, the heavy jackets, the peaked sun caps, and the expressions that hovered somewhere between confusion and forced interest. Dunedin had entered cruise ship season, and for the next five months the city would be crawling with people who didn’t quite know where they were or what they were doing here. Come to think of it, that could also describe a fair number of the city’s university students.

Having finished my drink, I gathered my things and made my way up Stuart Street, passing the stunning St Paul’s Cathedral and the old Fortune Theatre. After crossing Moray Place and Smith Street, I found myself opposite the former King Edward Technical College. It is a truly impressive building when you stop and take it all in, yet it seems oddly forgotten about in recent times until it made the news when a truck crashed into it or the owner floated the idea of selling it. Suddenly, everyone leaped up in outrage about what a travesty it would be to lose such a place. Then the news faded and people went back to ignoring it.

The building really is remarkable. For twenty years it was New Zealand’s largest secondary school. It boasted a saltwater swimming pool, which was quite fancy for a school at the time, a walk-in safe, which is not something you expect in a school, and it is listed as a Category I historic place, meaning it holds special or outstanding historical or cultural significance. Yet when it went up for sale in 2022, the local council chose not to buy it due to financial limitations, competing priorities, and risk. That left the way clear for a private buyer to swoop in and purchase it for $2.9 million and do whatever he likes with it.

Is it just me, or is that a tiny bit sad?

A Dragon’s Floating Relaxation Chamber

Daily Photo – The Dunedin Gaswork

Out of complete curiosity, I went for a wander around the Dunedin Gasworks – one of only three known preserved gasworks museums in the world, which makes it a significant heritage site and isn’t without its own unique rustic charm!

Now, to be frank for a moment, I really don’t have the faintest idea beyond a very basic level how you’d heat coal and turn it into gas to light a town. So, what I was looking at was very much a mystery. In the first room I entered, a large and well-lit engine room filled with natural light that bounced off the whitewashed brick walls and exposed rafters, a massive, dark green flywheel engine (I know this because I read the label) and associated machinery sat in the centre of the room dominated the entire space. Which, if I’m being completely honest, was a little boring. Actually, it was very boring!  It turns out, I’m just not that interested in the manufacturing, treatment, pumping, and storage of gas. So, to amuse myself on my wanderings, I decided to reinvent the various machines so they’d be more practical and useful in the modern age. As I walked around, I gave them all different uses and names. Suddenly, the place took on a whole new level of interest. For example, instead of looking at a stationary steam engine that converted the thermal energy of steam into mechanical energy, I was now looking at a weather-making machine where water vapour is collected, cooled, and condensed – controlled by a person who turns the various levers and handles to produce all sorts of various weather systems – even bolts of lightning! Next, I looked at the giant music box, a fizzy drink machine (which could easily be converted to produce whiskey or beer), a robot-building device, and a pizza oven. 

However, my personal favourite was the dragon’s floating relaxation chamber – complete with a chimney to channel the dragon’s fire-breath, which simultaneously kept the water lovely and hot. This machine I called “Droofus,” because of all the dragons I know, Droofus is by far and away my favourite. 

The one disappointment was that I wasn’t able to find the power mechanism-transponder valve that opens the gates to the secret riches of the Goblin Mines, so I might well have to return!

Life on Mars?

Alec Soth is a well-known American photographer from Minneapolis, who is recognised for his large-format, documentary-style work that captures life in the American Midwest. In a series called Room 303: Alec Soth’s Visions of Venice, he shot a series of images from Hotel Danieli in Venice, inspired by early color images by fellow photographers Dennis Stock and Erich Hartmann. It’s well worth a look.
Room 303: Alec Soth’s Visions of Venice


Daily Photo – Life on Mars?

Lightroom presets have been around for a long time now. In fact, since 19th February, 2007 (I looked it up!) with the re-release of Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 1. The re-release of Lightroom gave users the ability to save and apply presets when editing photos. The saved settings could then be applied to other images. Now, 18 years later they are still as much fun to play around with as they ever were. I’ve got loads of presets saved in my version of Lightroom, all with weird and wonderful names. This photo was edited with a preset called ‘Life on Mars?’

The Viper’s Nest

Daily Photo – The Viper’s Nest

It was just after 8:00pm on an early winter’s night and the street was quiet, slick after the evening rain. Somewhere down South Road, a muffled hum of tyres approached, rising like a tide and receding just as fast. The local shops lit in glowing pastel of blues and purples, like some kind of retreat in a sea of black. It was cold. Not quite bone-deep cold, but enough that you kept your hands in your pockets and your shoulders hunched against it.

In the dark, the streetlights stretch like starbursts, the reflections glinting off wet asphalt, and the long streaks of red and white from passing cars that blur time in a single frame. Earlier in the day, it hadn’t seemed like much, just another row of low shops, a street lined with parked cars and bins tucked against fences. But now, with the city mostly tucked in for the night, it had a kind of eerie beauty. The kind that only reveals itself when no one’s really looking.

I could’ve been home. Warm. Dry. Probably halfway through a movie and a cup of tea. Instead, I was crouched on a street corner in Dunedin, camera balanced, breath fogging, waiting for headlights to draw silver and gold lines across the road. Waiting for the shutter to catch the passing of time.

Fresh Freddy’s Fish Supply

Daily Photo – Fresh Freddy’s Fish Supply

The Fresh Freddy neon sign was once a quirky and memorable part of Dunedin’s streetscape. Featuring a bright green fish in a top hat, bow tie, and cane, the sign advertised a local seafood retailer. With its playful, gentlemanly design and glowing neon lights, it became a small but iconic piece of Dunedin’s visual history.

Southern Lights

Daily Photo – Southern Lights

A few hours later I arrived in Dunedin. The sky had long since darkened, and the city lights shimmered in the night air. I pulled off near the Southern Motorway to photograph the ribbons of light that danced along the road with white and red streaks, the trails of headlights and taillights captured in a long exposure. The rush of cars passed unseen, but their presence painted the scene in motion and colour. The streetlamps hummed overhead, casting soft amber pools of light that barely cut through the encroaching night.

The chilly air clung to cheeks and hinted at a lazy morning frost soon to settle on the nearby rooftops and roads. It was the kind of night where your breath lingered in front of your face before disappearing into the dark. I stayed a little longer, letting the camera finish its work, and watched the city lights sparkle in the distance – Dunedin glowing quietly at the end of the road.

The Night Stop

Daily Photo – The Night Stop

Don’t you just love the way this long-exposure shot hums with neon ribbons of light twisting through the night? The wet asphalt from recent heavy rain creates a mirror for the blue and red streaks of passing vehicles turning a quiet street corner into a kind of mystical dream. A lone streetlamp, a tree, a rusted roof, and an empty bus stop stand still and silent amidst the blur of motion. It’s the kind of scene you don’t plan, only discover.

This is NOM*d

Daily Photo – This is NOM*d

While wandering the Dunedin Art Gallery, I stumbled upon an exhibition titled ‘this is NOM*d’, a local fashion label that’s apparently been shaping New Zealand style since 1986. Now I know almost nothing about fashion, both New Zealand’s or anyone else’s—and have even less fashion sense. But somehow, it was fascinating. Of course, I didn’t understand a single thing I was looking at, but I nodded anyway in a profoundly wise manner, as if I always appreciated layered dresses, bright coats and ribbed sleeves that look like they’ve been through a lawn mower.

S T I L L

Daily Photo – Reflections

Behold the passive tide. 
On these tranquil waters, lie our reflections of the day. 
Solidarity in the afternoon sun, our thoughts gone from us a long while.
Me, I have no opinion o dreamer in this thoughtful moment.
I’ll only stay a short while and you no minute longer, mind lost in experience or wonder.

Farm Field on Cape Saunders Road.

Farm field on Cape Saunders road.

The metaphor of lines dissolving into the horizon crops up often in my work. Here, the fence line draws the eye through, threading its way into the brooding grey sky. I’m often drawn to the way the land seems to pause, as though waiting. There’s a tension between what is visible and what remains just out of reach beyond the rise. I nearly passed this scene by on a gloomy afternoon, but something about the scene made me stop. The light was heavy, flat—but quietly alive. There’s no grand gesture here, only wire, grass, and sky—but that’s all that’s needed. Everything is pared back to the essentials, and in that bareness, something honest emerges.

The Stillness of the Night

Moray Place, Dunedin.

At this early hour, the city whispers in hushed tones. Silent echoes from forgotten doorways spill into the night and cast unfamiliar shadows across the pavement. In these sleepy streets, lost souls, taxis and garbage trucks are the only ones left to roam the unguarded city.

There’s something about this hour, small noises echo through the stillness of the night. In the absence of sound, everything becomes louder, strange and new. The unfamiliarity draws out misplaced memories from a forgotten past. They emerge in moments like this, when you least suspect. Walking ahead of you, impossible to follow yet impossible to ignore.

Memories are like reflections of our previous self. They aren’t always visible; some only exist in our unconscious mind.

Forgotten Thoughts In The Rain

Princes Street in Dunedin

The usual food caravan’s and coffee venders weren’t there.
Not today. Not when the wind is sharp and the rain is heavy. Nobody lingers on days like these. There’s somewhere else to be, somewhere sheltered, somewhere warm. On days like this, thoughts quickly get forgotten and washed away in the rain.

Dunedin does this. It turns on a heartbeat. The weather comes in quickly — like a thought you didn’t see coming. It starts with an insignificant puff of wind through the trees, an irrelevant rain drop on the footpath, or a bank of cloud appearing over the horizon that sets the scene for something wild and interesting to come. 

The thing is, you never know how long it’ll last. But, on days like this the rain will wash away your thoughts and reshape your view of tomorrow.

Hollis Brown

Homestead near Dunedin

In 1964, Bob Dylan released his third album, titled The Times They Are A-Changin’. On that album was a song called The Ballad of Hollis Brown. In that song he told the fictitious story of Hollis Brown, a South Dakota farmer who, overwhelmed by the desperation of poverty, took a shotgun and shot his five young children, his wife, and finally himself. When I listen to that song, in my mind’s eye, I like to think that Hollis Brown’s cabin and surrounding farmland looked something like this.

The Ballad of Hollis Brown. (song: Bob Dylan, 1964)

Textures of the Haast River

The Haast River with Textures

This is one of my latest images, again it’s another one with textures. This time of the Haast River in the South Island here in New Zealand. Due to the weather (which was terrible) the sky was a mix white nothingness while the river and surrounding banks were wet, dark and gloomy. So, I went with stone textures in the sky and carried them around the edges where I also added a little vignetting to add mood. All up it took about an hour, which is a lovely relaxing way to pass the time.

Dunedin Street Art – Team Hoiho

Yellow-Eyed Penguins Street Art by Bruce Mahalski

If you’re looking to do something a little different in Dunedin then checking out the street art is a great place to start. There’s so many these days that it’s pretty easy to simply wander the inner city, you’ll find them eventually! However, if wandering isn’t your thing, then there’s a Dunedin Street Art map that can be downloaded. Be warned though, it’s a few years old and there’s been many additions to the local street walls since it was last updated. This one is by local artist Bruce Mahalski was added to Burlington Street in 2021.

Chasing the Thin White Cloud

Dunedin Street Art

Near the heart of Dunedin, vibrant murals have transformed some of the urban walls into a gallery of wonder. One titled ‘Chasing the Thin White Cloud‘ by Fintan Magee is a stunning five-storey mural, while another by the artist Bezet is an amazing three-story creation of a young woman lying in a bed of flowers in a forest. With a backdrop of historic architecture, the art street scene has added a creative soul into the city’s urban identity.

The Dunedin Law Courts 

The gathering twilight above the Dunedin Law Courts 

A hushed calm took over the evening sky. As the sun dropped below the city skyline, a hypnotic dance of colour came forth, turning nearby buildings into silhouettes. Across the street, only the gothic style, Scottish baronial architecture was visible in the fading light. As I walked, the evening traffic navigated their way through the city streets as day transitioned into night. In the absences of the city street lights that were yet to take hold, shadows took hold as the evening hues started to fade from sight, giving way to the imminent night.

Dawn In Suburbia

Dawn on Tomahawk Road

There’s a moment in the early hours of the day, that is quite delightful. It’s before the sunrises and light floods the sky in the hour before dawn. As the darkness of night lifts and surrounding objects start to take shape, when the blue hour takes hold, a silent hush fills the new day. It’s quite a magical time in a nothing much is happening sort of way.

Street Art On Vogel Street

Street Art by @hugovandorsser and Screaming Rooster Studio

For something different I wanted to see if I could capture a long exposure image during the day time. I made my way down to Vogel Street here in Dunedin and set up my gear under the overbridge that runs through former Jetty Street. Under the bridge, a painting which is part of the Dunedin Street Art trail by @hugovandorsser and Screaming Rooster Studio made a good backdrop as I waited for slow moving cars to pass by.

Ross Creek Reservoir (Lower)

Spider web with raindrops at Ross Creek

The other week when we had all that rain, I went out in search of photos involving water. However, instead of walking the streets of South Dunedin and photographing houses that were flooding, I headed for some of the Dunedin bushwalks. One of those that I spent some time in was in and around Ross Creek from the Leith Valley entrance. In this area of the bush several small rivers run through the valley before connecting up with the Waters of Leith. I arrived to find the usually sedate stream had become inundated with water after nearly three days of heavy rain. It was while I was photographing one of the many bends and drops in the stream that I noticed a nearby spider web that was catching some of the rain drops that were falling through the canopy.

Daybreak In The Suburbs

Corner of Tomahawk and Oakland Street (Out of the morning chaos comes bliss)

I emerged from my doorstep into the early morning light of a new day. Being spring, dawn was starting to break significantly earlier than it had a month ago yet, the mornings were still cold enough for heavy layers of dew to develop overnight. Having not been awake long enough to claim I was functioning to any high degree of cognitive skill, I headed off into the breaking dawn trying to work out what the heck I was doing up at such an hour, when I was actually on holiday. Then, I reminded myself. The light is always more interesting at this time of the morning. Exactly what I was looking for, I wasn’t too sure. So, I set up my tripod at a random intersection and waited for cars to drive past, creating a lovely long exposure effect. It was while I was waiting on one of these 25 second exposure shots that I decided I really was looking forward to a cup of coffee.  

Stain-glass Window At Dunedin Railway Station

Stain-glass window at Dunedin Railway Station

Aren’t stain-glass windows amazing? To think, we can thank both the Romans and Egyptians for   becoming experts at creating objects made from coloured glass. While looking at this one in Dunedin at the Railway Station, I began to speculate about the person who had the idea of making a window out of it. I like to think their thought process went something like: ‘You know what, if we put that see-through coloured stuff in that empty space where the wind comes through, we might really have something.’ I wonder if they knew it would catch-on as much as it has!

Portobello

Portobello Post Office

I went for a drive on the Otago Peninsula, looking for boats. Dinghies to be exact. I had an idea for an image that involved an old dinghy gently drifting on the tide. However, I quickly came across two problems. Firstly, it was far too windy for anything to be simply ‘drifting’ and secondly, I couldn’t find a dingy. So, to overcome these problems I stopped in the peninsula settlement of Portobello and photographed the former post office and general store building instead. If I’m being honest, I’m not entirely convinced it’s not a private residence, meaning I was photographing someone’s home! But, since the original building dates back to at least 1867, I’d like to think the owners would be lenient.

The Terminus Hotel

The Railway Central Terminus Hotel

The next day the clouds had rolled in, the temperature had dropped and heavy rain had lashed the city from sometime the previous evening. I spent a lazy day hunkering inside where it was warm, however by mid afternoon I was ready for some fresh air. With the rain showing no sign of easing, I tucked myself into a jacket and headed out into the city streets looking for puddles. Upon arriving at Queens Gardens, I spotted the former “Railway Central Terminus Hotel” reflecting in a rather large puddle near a set of traffic lights on Cumberland Street. Built in 1880 and described at the time as a conspicuous object that was considered an important addition to the city’s hotel accommodation, it was recently redeveloped into New York style apartments. Now, the building is considered an important part of the city’s warehouse precinct.

The Southern Motorway

Evening traffic on Dunedin’s Southern Motorway

The weather had turned! Gone was the previous few days of warmer temperatures and sunshine, only to be replaced with drizzly rain. It was the kind that brings in low lying apocalyptic mist and fog that makes everything apart from the two metres in front of your face disappear and you begin to wonder if something catastrophic is about to happen. 

Not to be deterred and wanting to keep up the early evening adventours I’d started several days previously, I went in search of traffic. My idea was to find a spot in the city where everything seemed to disappear into the distance, leaving nothing but a blaze of light behind. After all, even brainsucking, apocalyptic fog can be very moody under the right circumstances and if something momentous was about to happen, I wanted to be there to capture it. Looking out the window as I gathered my gear together, I noticed the drizzle was getting harder through the haze. ‘I’m about to get very wet’ I thought to myself as I headed out the front door into the unknown.

Corner of Rattray and Princess Street

Corner of Rattray and Princess Street in Dunedin

The city streets had an unhurried feel about them in the early morning air. I made my way past buildings of various sizes, the smell of coffee and bacon drifting from an establishment across the road on the gentle morning breeze. As I got closer to the source of the alluring morning aroma, I could see a nearby cafe bustling with people. Clearly it had already been open for some time as it was filled with a varying degree of customers waiting for their morning fix. Moving on, the city itself was surprisingly warm for pre-7am in winter, the crisp morning air and the clear skies gaving an indication that the day was going to be what locals called a stunning winter’s day.