Glenorchy Mountains – Buy
Having survived the sting of the early morning alarm clock, I found myself on the Glenorchy Pier as the sun was rising. Not only did I have the spectacular sights of dawn lighting up the mountains all around me, but I had it all to myself.
The Nuggets – Buy
When Alan Martin lost his job in 1989 due to technological advancement, he had the honor of being one of the last Lighthouse Keepers employed in the country. So, after the Nugget Point lighthouse became automated in 1989, and Mr Martin was no longer needed, it brought to an end the tradition of lighthouse keeping at ‘The Nuggets.’ A tradition that dated back 119 years to 1870
Philip Lang House – Buy
Having purchased a cup of coffee from a nearby cafe, I spent some time enjoying the early morning light as I wandered the city streets.
Wellington from Matiu/Somes Island – Buy
My time on Matiu/Somes Island was completely majestic. I wander along tracks and paths surrounded by bushes. Past decommissioned army barracks and other disused buildings that had been constructed on the island over the years. I walked through a bush filled with bird life and took in the sweeping views of Wellington Harbour and the city around me. It was on my return to the ferry that it occurred to me what makes Matiu/Somes Island so peaceful. Firstly, there’s no litter or rubbish bins. Secondly there’s no powerlines or graffiti and thirdly, a lack of human noise. For two hours I was free of all human sounds that now backdrop our lives. Of course, it couldn’t last and when the sight and sound of the ferry came chugging around the far point of Island, I found my ticket and boarded the ferry for Day’s Bay and in search of lunch.
Sméagol or Gollum– Buy
My last stop for the day was a tour of Weta Workshops that is based in the Wellington suburb of Miramar. One of the beautiful aspects of visiting Weta is that it embraces everything that is good and wholesome about the New Zealand No 8 wire mentality. No large gates, high walls, or imposing fences. On the corner of Camperdown and Weka Street, in a simple building that looks much like a state house, I found the home of the world famous digital effects company. For the rest of the afternoon I found myself lost in the amazing world of special effects and film making. Sometime later, having been taken back to my childhood with ‘The Thunderbirds’, I wondered if my wife would be as keen as I was to watch Lord of The Rings. I pondered this thought as I headed for a bar on Courtney Place.
The Cook Strait Ferry – Buy
Standing in the wind on the Cook Strait ferry, I was reminded of recently reading that in 1962, the rail service in New Zealand changed greatly. Until that year, rail in the North and South Islands weren’t connected. So, when the roll-on-roll-off ferry the GMV Aramoana set sail on 11 August 1962, the Cook Strait Inter-Island Rail and Road Service was born.
I had been in Arrowtown for a total of 15 minutes before our hosts had announced they were walking up Tobins Track. Not sure what exactly Tobins Track was, I was told it would take about 30 minutes of steady walking up a hill to a lookout that gave views looking out over the entire Wakatipu Basin. As the sun was due to set within the next hour or so, I decided, ‘well, why not!’
Long grass on the Otago Peninsula – Buy
Having been walking for some time, I reached a point where the track split in two. The first path looked to be a gentle stroll along a well worn track that led off through a field before looping back to the carpark. The second path, which wasn’t really a path at all, headed up the hill through long grass and ended at a stone wall that sat cresting the hill. Curious to see the stone wall and the view from the top of the hill, I pushed off through the long grass.
Victoria Avenue In Whanganui – Buy
I was in Whanganui and feeling a little glum! It could have been something to do with the heavy rain that had been falling all day, or maybe the extremely average hotel that I had checked into, or it could have been the fact that I was in Whanganui. I was trying my best to keep an open mind, however I was quickly losing the battle.
The previous evening in Wellington, I knew I would be needing a place to stay the following night, so while enjoying a beer at a local pub I had scrolled through the various options that the internet suggested. After narrowing down my limited options, I made my selection and proceeded to book for one night. Upon booking, I noticed that for an extra $10 I could book a room with a balcony view. Well, why not, I thought, imagining myself relaxing in the late afternoon sun, enjoying the fresh evening air and watching all the exciting things happening in the world below. Instead, upon arrival in my room, I found I had a view of a brick wall across from a rough car park that looked suspiciously like an empty lot that had simply been taken over! I took a moment to examine my room. I deduced that the $10 might have been better spent on maybe putting the mirror up, replacing the ‘things to do in Whanganui 2016/2017’ catalogue, vacuuming the room, replacing the blu tack on the emergency exit signs or replacing one of three light bulbs that were missing – not out, but actually missing! So while I decided whether I wanted the TV, Fridge or Kettle plugged into the wall plug, I played hide and seek with the TV remote control. A game I lost!
Following this I stopped in at the bar which looked like it was about to close and found out that the chef had just finished for the evening. After all, it was 6pm! So, I headed out into the rain to see what Whanganui had to offer.
Kingston – Buy
I had spent the afternoon in the small town of Kingston that sits at one end of Lake Wakatipu. The wind was starting to pick and the daylight was start to change into evening. I took one last walk along the beach before returning to my car and heading back to Queenstown.
Pudding Island/Titeremoana – Buy
After I got home, I conducted a little research. I had driven past the tiny Island hundreds of times, yet not once given it a second thought. So, I decided to change all that. With the aid of my computer and the trusty search engine called Google, it took me all of 30 seconds to discover the tiny island is called Pudding Island or Titeremoana. I also discovered that back around 1900 it was a popular place for day picnics. Until, some careless visitors started a fire which destroyed much of the vegetation. In response, the government protected the island under the Scenery Preservation Act and replanted over a 1000 plants. Which is what gives us the wonderful little island we have today.
Palmerston North, The Square – Buy
I found my way to Palmerston North. My initial plan had been to head to Taranaki and New Plymouth however, cyclone warnings had popped up all over the North Island, meaning a change in direction was required. So, I ended up in Palmerston North.
I drove south on Highway 54 through Fielding, arrived in Palmerston North, checked into a hotel, and went for a walk. Having spent half an hour discovering a Plaza, I ended up strolling around the town square before asking myself, now what? Earlier, while calling into a cafe for lunch, I had read that Palmerston North had a bustling town centre just waiting to be explored. Now, a few hours late, so far I had discovered that the town centre certainly wasn’t bustling and I wasn’t sure what was left to be explored.
Hawkdun Runs Road – Buy
Leaving Oturehua in the Ida Valley, I drove towards St Bathans. All day long I had been wondering, intermittently, just what exactly I would find on one of the backroads called Hawkdun Runs Road.
The Martinborough Hotel – Buy
When John Martin was born at Moneymore, County Londonderry, Ireland, in November 1822, I wonder if it occurred to him that he would end up having a town named after him? John Martin first came to New Zealand on the ship the Lady Nugent in 1841 at the age of 19. After spending most of his years in the North Island (along with a few sea voyagers), he eventually purchased 33,346-acres of land in the Wairarapa for a reported £85,000 in 1879. Martin then split the run into 334 small farms and the township of Waihenga was subdivided into 593 sections and renamed Martinborough.
Diamond Lake – Buy
At the head of Lake Wakatipu, I left the township of Glenorchy before crossing the Rees River and passing through an area called Earnslaw. This, then led to a place called Paradise and later the Dart River. On the way, I came across a camping and walking area called Diamond Lake.
Pōwhiri at Te Whare Rūnanga – Buy
The tour group I was part of moved through the treaty grounds until we came to a traditional Maori meeting house called, Te Whare Rūnanga. There, we were part of a pōwhiri (welcome) that began in front of the whare before we moved inside. This was followed by waiata (songs), poi and a traditional haka (war dance).
Whare Maumahara – Buy
In the Treaty grounds at Waitangi, I found the Te Rau Aroha Museum. Officially opened on the 5th February, 2020 the Museum aims to foster the understanding and struggle by Māori Battalion soldiers for equality as citizens in their own country. Now, there aren’t many places that I would call humbling, however the Te Rau Aroha Museum is one of them. During World War II the name Te Rau Aroha was given to a mobile canteen truck, which was sent from New Zealand to Māori Battalion soldiers who served on the battlefields overseas. Once near the front, the canteen became a place for soldiers to gather and hear the latest news broadcasts, while enjoying sweet treats from home. When a name had to be chosen for the new museum in the Treaty Grounds, naming it after the treasured Te Rau Aroha canteen truck seemed a logical choice.
Among the galleries inside the Museum, one is a Whare Maumahara or Memorial Gallery which is designed for visitors, descendants and whānau. The feature within the Memorial is a massive and extremely impressive large-scale wooden artform made up of thousands of pieces of beech kauri that fills the room. Surrounding this on all four walls are thousands of names of men who served in the Māori Pioneer Battalion and the 28 Māori Battalion from both World Wars. Feeling humbled, I left the museum and headed for an extremely large waka.
Schoolhouse at Blackstone Hill – Buy
I was on my way to Oturehua in the Ida Valley. Having spent the afternoon exploring back-country roads, trying to get lost and generally avoiding inconvenient accidents like getting a flat-tyre, I stopped at Blackstone Hill Cemetery. While I was there admiring a rather large storm cloud approaching in the distance, I spotted an isolated building on the hill side. Investigating, I discovered it was the former Blackstone Hill (Hills Creek) school house, built around 1890. At one time, Blackstone Hill was a busy place that included 13 hotels in the town. Today, all that remains are a stone cottage, a cemetery and this school building.
Dusk In The Mountains – Buy
After walking all day in the snow to a distant lake, then having made it back feeling tired and sunburnt, I took a well deserved rest. Later, with the sun setting and the light changing in the mountains I summoned the energy to walk around Mount Cook’s alpine village in the fading dusk.
That Wanaka Tree – Buy
I had three days in Wanaka and on one particular evening I decided to join a very large group of people who, like myself, clearly had nothing better to do than to look at a tree growing in water! After getting a compulsory photo, I then decided it was more interesting to watch the people, watching the tree. Some of whom, were extremely excited and animated. By what? Well, I just can’t say!
Paraparaumu Beach and Kapiti Island – Buy
Looking out from Paraparaumu Beach, across to Kapiti Island and the setting sun, I recalled recently reading that back in the 1830’s, whales migrated with their young through the channel between the Island and the shore. It would have been marvellous to see. I also recall reading that the channel provided a sheltered anchorage for ships and several shore-based whaling stations operated near-by, which explains why you don’t see whales in the area any more!
Bay of Islands Pontoon – Buy
The wonderful thing about the Bay of Islands is that you can go swimming in the summer without a wetsuit and not worry about getting hypothermia.
Lewis Acker’s House – Buy
If you ever go to Stewart Island, here’s a tip. Leave Oban by walking along the coast road of Elgin Terrace and continue into Leask Bay Road until you reach the very end. There you will find the Ackers Point Track Trailhead which takes you down into the remote Harrold Bay. In the Bay you’ll find the earliest stone house on the island, a small cottage that was built by former American whaler Captain Lewis Acker in 1834-5. It really is a delightful place and well worth a visit. I liked it very much.
The Remarkables From Queenstown – Buy
By the time I reached the end of the Queenstown Wharf the sun was already starting to disappear. The afternoon was moving towards early evening and the last patches of sunlight lit up The Remarkables mountain range that dominated the skyline across the bay. The bay itself was already in shadows as were the trees that lined the distant shoreline and it wouldn’t be long before the last of the sunlight was gone. A cool wind started to whip across the lake. It was time to find a place to eat.
Russell Summer Evening – Buy
Recently while on holiday I found myself pondering a single thought, which was this; isn’t it amazing how sitting in the sun all day, doing nothing but reading a book and occasionally complaining that the sun has disappeared behind a cloud, makes you feel like you’ve earned a drink by 3pm? Not that I’m complaining, in fact, as I write I notice that it’s actually 4:13pm. So, if you’ll excuse me, I believe I hear my beer fridge calling.
Lee Bay In Stewart Island – Buy
On the beach at Lee Bay in Stewart Island, after considerable thought, I came to a single conclusion. I like Stewart Island, and here’s the reason why. Stewart Island has a sum total of around 20 kilometers of roading compared to 245 kilometers of walking tracks. Now, there aren’t many places in the world where you can say that!
Lake Tekapo – Buy
Without a doubt the most outstanding features of Lake Tekapo and the McKenzie Region are the clear blue lakes, the mountain backdrops and the clear night skies. Standing on the edge of the lake, looking out to the clear blue beyond, I wanted to give mother nature a round of applause and say ‘job well done!’
Tautuku Bay – Buy
At the end of Tautuku Bay is a peninsula that’s full of wildlife and history. It’s a wonderful walk and a great way to explore a section of The Catlins coastline. Near the neck of the peninsula a whaling station ran for 7 years from 1839 and when the timber industry grew a port was developed as well. I’m pretty sure William Larnach was a major investor in the timber industry and used timber from this area on part of his castle in Dunedin.
North Island West Coast
This is the stunning West Coast of The North Island near Taranaki somewhere (I think) at sunset. I was flying up to the Bay of Islands and the light was amazing all the way up to Auckland.
Misplacing 30 years, damaged by water, rats – The Treaty of Waitangi.
Of all the things I’ve discovered recently, the most interesting and peculiar is this. The Treaty of Waitangi, our nation’s founding document was lost for nearly 30 years. At the time, this was something I couldn’t quite believe. Even now, a month later, I still find it mind boggling yet somehow very typically kiwi.
Much like the rediscovery of the treaty, I came across this information quite by chance. It was during a recent visit to the treaty grounds in the Bay Of Islands. It was a lovely fine morning and after a short 30 minute stroll along Te Ti Bay I found myself at the Treaty Grounds in Waitangi. With a good 30 minutes to spare before the next tour, I had decided to pass the time by looking through the Waitangi museum. I had been assured it was well worth a look so I figured, well, why not!
I casually strolled through the various exhibits which I must confess was very captivating until I happened upon a display cabinet containing a very worn and ripped piece of paper that resembled a school notice that had been at the bottom of a child’s bag for some time. The document, as it turns out, was an exact copy of the actual Treaty.
It seems that after the initial signing at Waitangi on the 6th February 1840, the treaty then went on a kind of regional tour around New Zealand so other Maori chiefs could sign. Unfortunately the next year the document was nearly destroyed by fire. Then, sometime after 1877 it was ‘misplaced’ (for nearly 30 years) before being found by historian Thomas Hocken in 1908.
The story goes that the highly esteemed Thomas Hocken was rummaging around in the basement of a Government building in Wellington when rolled up, thrown in a corner, damaged by water and eaten by rats, he discovered the Treaty of Waitangi. It was then damaged further when restoration work (a little DIY presumably) went horribly wrong. It was at this point, after misplacing it for 30 years, damaged by fire, water, rats and restoration work that everyone decided it was best to leave the thing alone, put it in a tin case and lock it up for another 50 years.
As I moved out of the museum into bright sunshine and towards a gathering crowd that I assumed was the tour party I was joining, I had two thoughts. Firstly, what other important national documents are we missing? Secondly, has anyone thought to look for them in remote hay barns?
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View from Tobins Track