View from Tobins TrackI had been in Arrowtown for a total of 15 minutes before our hosts had announced they were walking up Tobins Track. Not sure what exactly Tobins Track was, I was told it would take about 30 minutes of steady walking up a hill to a lookout that gave views looking out over the entire Wakatipu Basin. As the sun was due to set within the next hour or so, I decided, ‘well, why not!’
Long Grass On The Otago Peninsula
Long grass on the Otago Peninsula – Buy
Having been walking for some time, I reached a point where the track split in two. The first path looked to be a gentle stroll along a well worn track that led off through a field before looping back to the carpark. The second path, which wasn’t really a path at all, headed up the hill through long grass and ended at a stone wall that sat cresting the hill. Curious to see the stone wall and the view from the top of the hill, I pushed off through the long grass.
Whanganui
Victoria Avenue In Whanganui – Buy
I was in Whanganui and feeling a little glum! It could have been something to do with the heavy rain that had been falling all day, or maybe the extremely average hotel that I had checked into, or it could have been the fact that I was in Whanganui. I was trying my best to keep an open mind, however I was quickly losing the battle.
The previous evening in Wellington, I knew I would be needing a place to stay the following night, so while enjoying a beer at a local pub I had scrolled through the various options that the internet suggested. After narrowing down my limited options, I made my selection and proceeded to book for one night. Upon booking, I noticed that for an extra $10 I could book a room with a balcony view. Well, why not, I thought, imagining myself relaxing in the late afternoon sun, enjoying the fresh evening air and watching all the exciting things happening in the world below. Instead, upon arrival in my room, I found I had a view of a brick wall across from a rough car park that looked suspiciously like an empty lot that had simply been taken over! I took a moment to examine my room. I deduced that the $10 might have been better spent on maybe putting the mirror up, replacing the ‘things to do in Whanganui 2016/2017’ catalogue, vacuuming the room, replacing the blu tack on the emergency exit signs or replacing one of three light bulbs that were missing – not out, but actually missing! So while I decided whether I wanted the TV, Fridge or Kettle plugged into the wall plug, I played hide and seek with the TV remote control. A game I lost!
Following this I stopped in at the bar which looked like it was about to close and found out that the chef had just finished for the evening. After all, it was 6pm! So, I headed out into the rain to see what Whanganui had to offer.
Cromwell Lavender
Lavender In Cromwell – Buy
The day had turned into another Central Otago scorcha with the day still calm and clear while the temperature gauge climbed above the 30 degree mark for the third day in a row. I had left the township of Tekapo, passed through places called Twizel, Omarama and the Lindis Pass before arriving in the lovely town of Cromwell.
Kingston
Kingston – Buy
I had spent the afternoon in the small town of Kingston that sits at one end of Lake Wakatipu. The wind was starting to pick and the daylight was start to change into evening. I took one last walk along the beach before returning to my car and heading back to Queenstown.
Coronet Peak Road
Coronet Peak Road – Buy
It must be said that the view from the road up to Coronet Peak ski field is quite incredible. The road starts in the valley that links Queenstown to Arrowtown and twists and turns its way up the side until you reach the ski field. It really is rather astonishing.
Dunedin Railway Station
Dunedin Railway Station – Buy
I found my way through the streets of Dunedin to the Railway Station which is located at the end of Lower Street, only two blocks from the central Octagon. The Railway Station really is a magnificent building and is one that has been looked after most wonderfully.
St Kilda Beach Sunset
St Kilda Beach Sunset – Buy
The day had been all together pleasant and I was finishing it with a walk along the beach. Having parked my car outside a collection of restaurants and bars on the St Clair Esplanade, I had set off along the beach. Now having reached its terminus, I enjoyed the sunset before starting the walk back. A distance of around 3.5 kilometers in the fading light.
Titeremoana
Pudding Island/Titeremoana – Buy
After I got home, I conducted a little research. I had driven past the tiny Island hundreds of times, yet not once given it a second thought. So, I decided to change all that. With the aid of my computer and the trusty search engine called Google, it took me all of 30 seconds to discover the tiny island is called Pudding Island or Titeremoana. I also discovered that back around 1900 it was a popular place for day picnics. Until, some careless visitors started a fire which destroyed much of the vegetation. In response, the government protected the island under the Scenery Preservation Act and replanted over a 1000 plants. Which is what gives us the wonderful little island we have today.
The Square In Palmerston North
Palmerston North, The Square – Buy
I found my way to Palmerston North. My initial plan had been to head to Taranaki and New Plymouth however, cyclone warnings had popped up all over the North Island, meaning a change in direction was required. So, I ended up in Palmerston North.
I drove south on Highway 54 through Fielding, arrived in Palmerston North, checked into a hotel, and went for a walk. Having spent half an hour discovering a Plaza, I ended up strolling around the town square before asking myself, now what? Earlier, while calling into a cafe for lunch, I had read that Palmerston North had a bustling town centre just waiting to be explored. Now, a few hours late, so far I had discovered that the town centre certainly wasn’t bustling and I wasn’t sure what was left to be explored.
Hawkdun Runs Road
Hawkdun Runs Road – Buy
Leaving Oturehua in the Ida Valley, I drove towards St Bathans. All day long I had been wondering, intermittently, just what exactly I would find on one of the backroads called Hawkdun Runs Road.
Burkes Pass
Burkes Pass – Buy
I was heading for Lake Pukaki, a large alpine lake on the northern edge of the MacKenzie Basin near the township of Tekapo. On the way, I passed through Burkes Pass, named after Dublin University graduate Michael John Burke who drove a team of bullocks through the passageway which leads up into the Mackenzie Country in 1855.
Butchers Dam
Butchers Dam – Buy
It was while admiring the lovely sights of Butcher’s Dam that I decided it’s a shame it’s there at all. I’m not opposed to the dam, and the area is very nice. Not only is there a dam and lake to enjoy, but it also contains a historic hut, a multitude of tracks to walk and even a conservation area above it at a place called Flat Top Hill.
However, before the dam was built between 1935 and 1937 during the great depression, the area was filled with all sorts of buildings and structures from the gold mining years of the 1860’s. Once gold was discovered there in 1862, miners from everywhere flocked to the area and a town quickly sprung up. The town included a Hotel, a store, butchers shop and market gardens that were owned by Chinese prospectors.
As I walked along the dam I imagined how wonderful it would be to see the remains of the historic town that would have stretched through the valley and what a shame it is that those remains are lost forever. Still, the lake is very nice!
Wellington In Fog
Wellington In Fog – Buy
It was early, the day hadn’t really started and Wellington had disappeared over night under a blanket fog. Clutching a delicious cup of coffee I sat for a while and watched as people came and went into the nothingness.
The Cardrona Hotel
The Cardrona Hotel – Buy
Leaving Queenstown I headed up the Crown Range, intending to pass through the Cardrona Valley, eventually aiming to end up in Wanaka. Having passed over the Crown Range, I drove along the Cardrona Valley Road, following the river before coming to the iconic Cardrona Hotel. Not being able to resist photographing the legendary Inn, I pulled into the carpark opposite the hotel, only to discover that a large group of cyclists had gathered directly in front of the building.
The average age of the group must have been in the mid 70’s, and clearly this outing was serious business. They were doing all manner of stretching exercises that were intermixed with lots of pointing and nodding of heads. At one point they all gathered around a bike and looked fascinatingly at the back wheel. Clearly they had just discovered it was round!
They were also heavily dressed in lycra, which was not something the rest of the world wanted to see. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not opposed to lycra, it’s just that it shouldn’t be worn in public by certain members of the human race, and this group were most definitely not the right type of people.
All of this fussing over bikes and lycra went on for a good deal of time before the peloton eventually moved off in the direction of the Crown Range Summit and I was left to photograph the old hotel in peace and quiet.
Dawn In The Hakataramea Valley
Dawn On Milne Road – Buy
The reason I was there, well I wasn’t too sure. However, I spent the hours pre and post sunrise chasing interesting spots in the Hakataramea Valley . Tucked away in the Waimate District, the Hakataramea Valley sits at the foot Kirkliston range in the South Island of New Zealand and is a wonderful spot.
Kapiti Island Shoreline
Kapiti Island Shoreline – Buy
Some years ago, I had the pleasure to spend a day on Kapiti Island. Being a nature reserve, it lies 5 kilometers off the West Coast of the North Island, at Paraparaumu. Often visited by Maori, before europeans sailors arrived, at one point it was a busy whaling and sheep station that was then turned over to the government and made into a predator-free, bird sanctuary. For over 100 years it has been managed by the New Zealand Government in order to protect its flora and fauna.
Shed At Waipiata
Shed at Waipiata– Buy
It wasn’t long after I arrived in Waipiata that I found the disused goods-shed that once belonged to the railway. In fact, I saw it immediately after turning into the town! Waipata’s claim to fame is that there was once both a rabbit processing plant and a tuberculosis sanatorium operating near the town in the early 1900’s. While the processed rabbits were transported to Dunedin via train, people were transported from Dunedin to the sanatorium.
The Martinborough
The Martinborough Hotel – Buy
When John Martin was born at Moneymore, County Londonderry, Ireland, in November 1822, I wonder if it occurred to him that he would end up having a town named after him? John Martin first came to New Zealand on the ship the Lady Nugent in 1841 at the age of 19. After spending most of his years in the North Island (along with a few sea voyagers), he eventually purchased 33,346-acres of land in the Wairarapa for a reported £85,000 in 1879. Martin then split the run into 334 small farms and the township of Waihenga was subdivided into 593 sections and renamed Martinborough.
Diamond Lake At Paradise
Diamond Lake – Buy
At the head of Lake Wakatipu, I left the township of Glenorchy before crossing the Rees River and passing through an area called Earnslaw. This, then led to a place called Paradise and later the Dart River. On the way, I came across a camping and walking area called Diamond Lake.
Te Whare Rūnanga
Pōwhiri at Te Whare Rūnanga – Buy
The tour group I was part of moved through the treaty grounds until we came to a traditional Maori meeting house called, Te Whare Rūnanga. There, we were part of a pōwhiri (welcome) that began in front of the whare before we moved inside. This was followed by waiata (songs), poi and a traditional haka (war dance).
Te Rau Aroha
Whare Maumahara – Buy
In the Treaty grounds at Waitangi, I found the Te Rau Aroha Museum. Officially opened on the 5th February, 2020 the Museum aims to foster the understanding and struggle by Māori Battalion soldiers for equality as citizens in their own country. Now, there aren’t many places that I would call humbling, however the Te Rau Aroha Museum is one of them. During World War II the name Te Rau Aroha was given to a mobile canteen truck, which was sent from New Zealand to Māori Battalion soldiers who served on the battlefields overseas. Once near the front, the canteen became a place for soldiers to gather and hear the latest news broadcasts, while enjoying sweet treats from home. When a name had to be chosen for the new museum in the Treaty Grounds, naming it after the treasured Te Rau Aroha canteen truck seemed a logical choice.
Among the galleries inside the Museum, one is a Whare Maumahara or Memorial Gallery which is designed for visitors, descendants and whānau. The feature within the Memorial is a massive and extremely impressive large-scale wooden artform made up of thousands of pieces of beech kauri that fills the room. Surrounding this on all four walls are thousands of names of men who served in the Māori Pioneer Battalion and the 28 Māori Battalion from both World Wars. Feeling humbled, I left the museum and headed for an extremely large waka.
Mark The Clock With Seven Chimes
Peninsula Glow – Buy
As I wander thro’ each charter’d street, near where the Toitu quietly does flow.
And mark the clock with seven chimes, The day-light peeks, the day-light grows.
(Words adapted from William Blake’s poem London)
NZ Loan and Mercantile Agency Co Ltd – Buy
Reed’s Building – Buy
Speight’s Brewery – Buy
The Hocken Building – Buy
Tapeka Point Track
Tapeka Point Towards Oneroa Bay – Buy
While In Russell, I decided some exercise was in order so I headed for the historic Tapeka Point. The point was once home to the Tapeka Pa and is now classified as a historic reserve due to its links to Maori ancestors and key events in the Bay of Islands history. Leaving the tranquility of Tapeka Beach, I followed a narrow grassy track that led me into what was once the heart of the Pa itself. Following the path and navigating what were once defensive ditches, I continued to the end of the Tapeka Peninsula and the top-most part of Pa itself. Once there, I found myself with almost overwhelming views out into the surrounding bays and beyond.
Blackstone Hill School
Schoolhouse at Blackstone Hill – Buy
I was on my way to Oturehua in the Ida Valley. Having spent the afternoon exploring back-country roads, trying to get lost and generally avoiding inconvenient accidents like getting a flat-tyre, I stopped at Blackstone Hill Cemetery. While I was there admiring a rather large storm cloud approaching in the distance, I spotted an isolated building on the hill side. Investigating, I discovered it was the former Blackstone Hill (Hills Creek) school house, built around 1890. At one time, Blackstone Hill was a busy place that included 13 hotels in the town. Today, all that remains are a stone cottage, a cemetery and this school building.
Dusk In The Mountains
Dusk In The Mountains – Buy
After walking all day in the snow to a distant lake, then having made it back feeling tired and sunburnt, I took a well deserved rest. Later, with the sun setting and the light changing in the mountains I summoned the energy to walk around Mount Cook’s alpine village in the fading dusk.
That Wanaka Tree
That Wanaka Tree – Buy
I had three days in Wanaka and on one particular evening I decided to join a very large group of people who, like myself, clearly had nothing better to do than to look at a tree growing in water! After getting a compulsory photo, I then decided it was more interesting to watch the people, watching the tree. Some of whom, were extremely excited and animated. By what? Well, I just can’t say!
Paraparaumu Beach & Kapiti Island
Paraparaumu Beach and Kapiti Island – Buy
Looking out from Paraparaumu Beach, across to Kapiti Island and the setting sun, I recalled recently reading that back in the 1830’s, whales migrated with their young through the channel between the Island and the shore. It would have been marvellous to see. I also recall reading that the channel provided a sheltered anchorage for ships and several shore-based whaling stations operated near-by, which explains why you don’t see whales in the area any more!
Lunch In Arrowtown
Arrowtown – Buy
I had lunch just as the day in Arrowtown was starting to collect itself. The morning had started with subzero temperatures creating a thick layer of frost over the town and virtually everything in it. Now, several hours later with the sky a clear and brilliant blue and the sun being a welcome source of warmth, I found myself in a delightful cafe having brunch. Actually, I wasn’t as much in the cafe as I was outside in the garden, which was equally as delightful and rather splendid as the sun took hold.
Earlier that morning having been for a walk in the cool morning air, I decided to see what Trip Advisor was advising regarding the local eating establishments while the town defrosted. So, after some toing and froing and a rather lengthy period of indecisiveness, I decided to make my way to a place called Provisions of Arrowtown. There, I found my way to a table in the lovely garden and enjoyed a splendid brunch surrounded by a wonderfully restored cottage that dated back to the 1870’s and the Arrowtown goldrush era.
Having no immediate plans for the rest of the day, apart from vacating my table which was clearly wanted by a number of hungry visitors, I decided to ponder what to do next as I walked the town streets
Dwan In Glenorchy
Glenorchy Mountain Peaks – Buy
A few years back, I stayed a few nights in the tiny South Island town of Glenorchy. One morning, waking up early I snuck out for a walk as dawn was starting to break. I made my way down to the pier at the lakefront and savoured the splendor of the colours that surrounded me. If there’s one thing that is guaranteed to make you feel insignificant, it’s watching the earth wake-up while being encircled in mountain peaks. Only gradually did dawn on me that I was the only one around.