Further on, having crossed the Otago Peninsula we started to track the coastline back towards Macandrew Bay. The whole place looked stunningly pretty with long views down to the blue sea, bordered with majestic shades of green, separated only by a road that snaked its way along the base of the land by the sea shore. Perhaps it was the time of day, the weather or the sense of experiencing the world from a different view but it seemed perfect. The land rolling down to the water in splendid hues of colour. I could have looked at it for hours.
Finding myself looking over the Otago Peninsula and back up Otago Harbour I was astounded by the length and shape of the Harbour, but then again, I always am. Many years ago when I had returned to Dunedin after living overseas, one of the most enjoyable parts of my day was being able to drive around the harbour and the peninsula. I remember reading somewhere that it’s’ like a beckoning finger lying between the Pacific Ocean and the harbour. I prefer to think of Robbie Burns’ ‘My heart’s in the Highlands, wherever I go.’
Among the many hundreds of things that have come a long way in Dunedin since my arrival to the city in November 1978, unfortunately my golf game isn’t one of them. If we could drain the ocean around Lawyers Head, (particularly on the left hand side from the ninth tee) I’m sure most of the golf balls found would in fact be mine!
By the time we reached the Hot Salt Water Pool, a public facility perched on the end of a rocky point sitting below a line of cliffs, I was quite amazed. There were all sorts of patterns and textures, shapes and colours, some natural features and some made by man. Some of the features showed the wear and tear of time while other features like the seaweed growing off the rocks and the contrasting blues of the water made the whole area sparkle in a rugged, less than perfect kind of way.
And so on to St Clair we flew. We arrived at around nine thirty in the morning in beautiful sunshine. The day had broken fine and the streets were quiet, the occasional car leisurely making its way through the placid suburban streets that backed onto the beach. I’d spent most of my life living in Dunedin and thought I knew it reasonably well, but a city can take on a whole new complexion when viewed from the air.
Late last month before autumn officially ended and winter began, I went on one last search for some autumn colour. There’s still some last pockets around the city however in general the trees are pretty well bare now. Fortunately around Queens Garden in Dunedin I found a few trees the still maintained a hint of the autumn colour palette. #lovindunners#majesticdunedin#johncaswellnz
Is Tyler Stent a local Dunedin artist? I always assumed he was however it recently occurred to me that this is a piece of information I should know for certain. I know he has had art on show at the The Artists Room on Dowling Street and you can find more of his work on Carroll Street (Ralph Hotere mural) and at the cafe the Morning Magpie on Stuart Street. Which is your favourite?
Any guesses what year the Jetty St overbridge was built? When it was opened it replaced the old Jetty to Vogel Street overbridge that spanned the train yards here in Dunedin. The original bridge was made of Port Chalmers bluestone and was built between 1883 and 1886 for horses and carts then later vehicles like cars and tracks. It was eventually demolished after the new Jetty St bridge was built. So, what year was that ….. > > > ….. the year was 1977, #lovindunners#majesticdunedin#johncaswellnz
@johncaswellnz – Eternity in ripples of reflection. Wandering finding curious and creative views as I amble down each charter’d street. #lovindunners#majesticdunedin#johncaswellnz
This image is all about the ripples and the reflections in the water. What I really liked was the way the wharf and boat were reflected in the water in such a a peaceful way.
@johncaswellnz – And thus I asked the former. Wandering finding curious and creative views as I amble down each charter’d street. #lovindunners#majesticdunedin#johncaswellnz
This is another of Dunedin’s lovely older buildings. Does anyone know it’s history?
@johncaswellnz – As does drop and shadows remain Wandering finding curious and creative views as I amble down each charter’d street.
I was chasing shadows across the Octagon earlier today as the sun dropped from sight. I originally started on lower Stuart Street and tracked the light and shadows as they shifted before ending with this wee scene. #lovindunners#majesticdunedin#johncaswellnz
@johncaswellnz – Because It’s So Wandering finding curious and creative views as I amble down each charter’d street.
Did you know that this building at the time of construction was the tallest in the southern hemisphere. Who would have thought in Dunedin’s quiet little Bond Street. It’s recently had beautiful golden foliage outside it throughout autumn.
@johncaswellnz – In the autumn, through the leaves. Wandering finding curious and creative views as I amble down each charter’d street.
This is a visit to my autumn colour palette. It’s based on warm yellow undertones mixed with oranges, reds, ochre and olive colours. It also discovered mixes wonderfully well with textures.
Day 5 – I’d spent the previous night enjoying the sights and sounds of Courtney Place. Earlier in the day I had enjoyed a delicious and wonderful lunch at Mr Go’s. Having been to Mr Go’s on previous trips, and with less than 24 hours left in the city, I simply had to enjoy the Asian Fusion Restaurant before I left. My taste buds had drawn me to the mouth wateringly good Pork Belly Bao Bun and Pork Dumplings. Now, many hours later I found myself sitting in a bar called the Welsh Dragon with my stomach hungry for food. Approaching the Welsh Dragon, I had initially thought it was a deserted building in the middle of a median strip. But, it turned out to be an old historic public toilet that has been converted into possibly the most laid back and down to earth pub in the whole CBD. There were no fancy flashing lights, drums hanging from the ceiling or large neon lights that were accompanied with extremely loud music. It was a friendly, hospitable pub, no more than that. I felt at home instantly.
Day 4 – It’s interesting in Aotearoa that so much of our national history seems to start with European Explorers. For example, Able Tasman is credited with the discovery of New Zealand in 1642. The story goes that the good Mr Tasman, having sailed for nearly 140 days, and upon sighting the West Coast of the South Island, he decided he couldn’t really be bothered stopping and kept sailing. Our history books then jump to Captain Cook’s navigation of New Zealand in 1769. From there, we’re told about European encounters with Māori until the lead-up to the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840.
Until more recent times, it appears that everyone forgot that Polynesian migration and settlement in Aotearoa occurred between 1250 – 1300. A good 350 years before Able Tasman decided he was feeling adventurous and set sail and around 450 years before Captain Cook landed in Poverty Bay. Having spent the previous day wandering around Matiu Island, I decided some further personal education of Māori settlement was in order.
Day 3 – Matiu/Somes Island’s claim to fame is wide and varied. Lying in Wellington Harbour it’s history dates back to the early Polynesian Explorer Kupe, and since then it has been a Maori Pa site, a quarantine station, an internment camp, a military defensive position and is now a wildlife reserve and sanctuary looked after by the Department of Conservation.
My plan for the day was to ferry across the harbour to Days Bay and an area called Eastbourne. I had purchased my ticket from a young lady who was without a doubt one of the most friendly, helpful and polite receptionist I’ve ever met. Upon my inquiry for a return ticket across the harbour she politely informed me that the next ferry was actually stopping at Matiu/Somes Island which apparently wasn’t very big ‘but definitely worth a visit’. ‘Well, why not I said’. So, after a short but enjoyable board ride I found myself standing on an island in the middle of Wellington Harbour.
Day 2 – I awoke in the morning feeling refreshed and very well rested. The previous day I’d spent 90 minutes flying and 480 minutes at Christchurch Airport so now I was more than ready for a walk and something to eat.
I ate breakfast at a very retro place called Midnight Espresso. After ordering, I sat in the window watching rain fall and Cuba Street slowly come to life, passing the time marveling at how maple syrup instantly improves bacon and banana pancakes. When finally my stomach was full, and my plate empty, I set off into the sleepy Wellington streets.
Day 1 continued – It all started with a noise that didn’t sound quite right. Clearly this is not something you want to be thinking having just taken off on an A320 Airbus heading to 30,000 feet. The next thing that happen was the captain and cabin crew informed us that there was a problem with the landing gear and our flight to Wellington would be making an unscheduled stop in Christchurch. As I sat there watching the coast and listening to a plane that seemed to be rattling more than a car I once owned, two thoughts crossed my mind. Firstly, it was moments like this that you wish Harrison Ford or Bruce Willis are on the plane. Secondly, having watched Mayday, I was confident I knew what to do.
Day 1 – I like Wellington, I think it’s the waterfront that grabs me the most. Whenever I’m in there I always make a point of having at least one wander along and around the harbour area. You see, I always find myself feeling a little bit jealous that Dunedin hasn’t made the most of its own harbour area. They say you can’t beat Wellington on a good day, and this certainly is true. When the weather is fine, and the wind is calm it’s one of my favourite places to amble. There’s always a pop-up store or two to enjoy, various markets and a wide variety of funky art installations to capture the imagination. Of all the art installations, my personal favorite is Max Patte’s statute ‘Solace In The Wind’.
I’ve photographed the Steeples Of First Church before. Usually it’s in the early morning or late in the evening. However, I’ve been meaning to taken a day time image of First Church for a while. It’s one of those land mark locations here in Dunedin that’s an important part of the city. It’s primary congregation was the Scottish Free Church settlers who first landed in Dunedin in the 1840’s. Plus, it’s got an awesome gothic feel to it. There’s little wonder it’s is regarded as one of the most impressive nineteenth-century churches in New Zealand.
In yesterday’s blog post Autumn In The Inner City I mentioned that after identifying an Autumn colour palette, I then went out in search of Autumn in the inner city. My goal was to find Autumn scene’s that also showed parts of the city. This is an image I found at Otago University with the old University clocktower reflecting in the windows of the Centre of Innovation with a Japanese Cherry tree sits in front.
I was watching a home decorating show the other day. Just why I was doing such a thing I can’t recall however it was one of those shows where a designer is given a hopelessly inadequate budget in which to update a mammoth amount of rooms in the space of only a few weeks. The project, from memory, was started in November and of course the family wanted it to be finished in time for Christmas. When they presented the designer with this timeline and budget, after much rolling around on the floor laughing, she politely told them they were being a tad hopeful and optimistic. This I discovered was interior designer code for not standing a snowball’s chance in hell of getting it done.
To sum things up and skipping to the end of the show, they went massively over budget and apparently two years later the job is still not finished. However, I did learn a few things from this programme. Firstly, I have no understanding how to place furniture in a room. If furnitureplacementdyslexia was a thing, then I’d have it! Secondly, I wanted to start thinking in terms of colour palettes.
It turns out that in home decorating, colour palettes are extremely important and while I wasn’t too fussed about home decorating with delicately placed objects or cushions, transferring a seasonal colour palette into art form seemed a very interesting idea. I thus set myself a mission. To identify a autumn seasonal colour palette and then use it in a photo.
A few days later after much reading I identified my autumn colour palette as based on warm yellow undertones mixed with oranges, reds, ochre and olive colours. It is also offset with earthly brown’s taken from the natural world such as rusts. I also discovered that this colour palette mixes wonderfully well with textures. And so, with my palette identified, I went out in search of autumn in the inner city.
I’ve been out hunting the Autumn vibes around Dunedin recently. Usually I head out into the bush and take in a few walking tracks while listening to bird life. This year however I’ve been more focused on finding signs of Autumn in the inner city and seeing how I can combine the two elements.
Taking photos in the city always feels rushed for some reason, no matter how much time I take. I think it’s the constant flows of traffic and people. For a change of pace I headed up to Ross Creek to watch and listen to the bush. After sometime I found part of a stream where the Autumn leaves kept getting trapped in the rocks before getting swept away. I wander where they end up?
I spent a pleasant morning casually wandering around various buildings that made up the city centre. I’m not sure when, but at some stage I headed through a mall that seemed to have a very interesting structure to it. In it I found this very funky ceiling. It’s outside the vegetarian and vegan deli Let Them Eat Vegan. It’s a very popular locally owned vegan deli here in Dunedin with lots of yummy homemade meats, cheeses, mayos, sandwiches and baked goods. If you wanted to call in and see them here are the details: What’s Good? The Baguettes are outstanding! The great thing is their menu changes everyday so you knows it’s fresh and never boring. Address: Albion Lane, Dunedin, New Zealand 9016 Open: Tuesday to Friday 11;00am – 8:00pm, Saturday 9:00 – 3:00pm
I wandered past the various eating establishments that had an abundance of offers for foot traffic like myself. They all seemed very enticing but considering I hadn’t actually done anything that morning beyond get up, they all seemed a bit lavish. In the end, after wandering in the delicious warmth that can only be provided from the sun on a public holiday I settled for a coffee from a local cafe called Star Fish. Happy and content I went on way.
I went for a walk at dawn the other day. Here in Dunedin there’s been a few good sunrises recently so I thought I should capture at least one of them. The great thing about being surrounded by so many hills is that there’s always lots of good options to view them from. Personally, I enjoy the beaches at St Kilda and St Clair. I took this looking over the Long Dog Cafe and Salt Water Pool on the Esplanade as people were coming and going for their early morning dips. It’s not a bad spot to have a coffee and read the paper on a Monday morning.
Yesterday I mentioned how wonderful the Otago Harbour is and a few of the things that make it simply splendid. Well, the Otago Peninsula is just as good. There’s all sorts of tracks and paths to adventure along, old buildings to explore and sights to be seen. If you’re after wildlife, a little bit of preplanning is the way to go but as long as you have good walking shoes there’s heaps to see and do. Even on days like the one above when the low cloud, mist and drizzle take hold it’s a unique experience. It’s little wonder so many artists have used it as inspiration.
One of the best things about Dunedin is the Harbour. It’s simply splendid in so many ways. It may not be the big, grand showpiece that is Sydney Harbour, however there’s something close, personal and intimate about Dunedin’s Harbour. In one day you can see Albatrosses, Seals, Sea Lions, Penguins, go for a ferry ride, go fishing, visit art galleries, undertake any number of water sports, enjoy the many picnic areas, walk, run, cycle and of course enjoy any one of the many cafes, bars and restaurants that can be found at various locations.
Also, if you get up early in August you can have a view like this from the Ravensbourne over bridge as the sun comes up.
This week I’m having a change of pace. No words (well, no more than 26) or travel story/writing. Just some of my favourite creative images involving textures.
Portobello Road – Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery
