I ended up standing on an Italianate terrace in the Mediterranean Garden at the Dunedin Botanical Gardens. Looking beyond the water feature out towards Leith Valley the wind began to pick up and the clouds threatened rain. Maybe it was the weather, however feeling a bit uninspired by everything and unsure what I wanted to see next, I decided to leave the gardens for another day.
I ended with one last look at the spiral of First Church that was reaching into the sky and could be seen through the gaps in the trees. Then, since it was late afternoon and feeling I had done enough walking for one day, I went in search of beer and a bite to eat.
Leaving Burlington Street, I headed along Moray Place before turning left into Princes Street and shortly thereafter I came to Dowling Street. To my left, the street quickly headed down hill to more or less where I had just come from, whereas on my right, I found the Dowling Street steps which gave access to the streets on the hill above. This was to be my next stop on my unplanned, self guided tour of the inner city.
I remember once reading a description of the Dowling Street steps that said ‘the area can attract less desirable attention at night.’ This is code for; if you want to get wasted on cheap liquor in the chilly Dunedin night air, this is the place to be. During the day, it’s a wonderful spot to look into the backyards of buildings along Princes Street. It also provides a view of the tops of people’s heads as they stroll purposefully to meetings, appointments and other places of importance.
My main reason for waiting to visit these steps was to see the spot where a disarmed World War 1 field gun once stood. It was placed there after the steps were built in 1927 and stayed in place until World War II. Then, people started to fear that the gun might attract the attention of the Japanese Military on a bombing raid so it was taken down in 1943.
Back in 1927 when the original steps were built to provide a pedestrian thoroughfare, they were also used as an outdoor arena for public addresses. After all, there really is nothing better when you’re giving a rousing public speech than having a WW1 German field gun as a visual aid!
My unscheduled and unplanned tiki-tour of Dunedin buildings led me up Burlington Street which I ascended now. I recently read that Burlington Street is listed in the New Zealand Historical Places list due to its historical significance. At the top of Burlington Street I came across Burns Hall, an impressive multi-story community building that is available for hire. I looked it up and found that among the features listed are trestle tables and cushioned bench seats which would certainly seal the deal for me if I was in the market to hire a community hall.
I took a detour along the Otago Peninsula. The wind was fairly gusting its way across the harbour and a large bank of dark, ominous clouds hung overhead. However, to my astonishment it didn’t rain, it just threatened to rain all afternoon. The other thought I found somewhat bewildering was the wonderful blue colour of the harbour.
Here’s an interesting comparison for you. New Zealand has a population of 5.1 million and has a total of 6 casinos whereas Las Vegas has a population of 653 533 and a massive 60 casinos for visitors to enjoy. The first casino opened in Las Vegas opened in 1906 compared to New Zealand’s first casino which opened in Christchurch in 1994. However, if you really want to go back in time, the oldest casino in the world is the Casino di Venezia that sits on the Grand Canal in Venice which opened in 1638. Originally a theatre called the Theatre Saint Moses, it contained a wing for gambling during the intermissions of plays.
How I like the building that is right next door to the former New Zealand Insurance Co building in Queens Garden called Phoenix House. Although, it was originally called the Equitable Insurance Association Building when it was originally constructed back in 1885. Of all the buildings in the warehouse precinct that have yet to be restored, this one’s my favourite. Yet I have know idea why!
Not more than a stone’s throw away from the Imperial Building, and just across the square is another impressive building, Queens Garden Court. However, to be fair, there are many impressive buildings around this part of the city. A vast majority of them are being brought back to life with a fresh coat of paint and some TLC. One that has recently had the scaffolding taken down to reveal its new facade is the building that I now found myself standing in front of, The New Zealand Insurance Co building which started life in 1888 thanks to the designs of Nathaniel Wales from architects Mason & Wales.
A few blocks from Fable/Wains Hotel on the corner of Dowling Street and Lower High Street is the Imperial Building. The building was originally built for brothers James and Henry Stokes in 1906 who operated a local tailoring business. It’s easy to spot. It’s shaped like a wedge and is constructed of red brick and concrete. Apparently it’s also an outstanding example of Queen Ann Revival design, whatever that is!
I strolled further along Princes Street which was surprisingly busier than I’d expected. Presently, ‘The Exchange’ came into view and the buildings that lined the street grew into increasingly noble and opulent pre1900 examples of the building industry.
Once this section of road was one of the grandest in the country, and standing along the busy street was (and still is) the elegant Wains Hotel. The hotel began life not as one building but several that were eventually all purchased by Englishmen John Wain. Then, in 1878 he contracted to have a new building constructed on the Princes Street site at the cost of £14,000. For good measure he even named it after himself, put his name on the front of the building and had a golden, wing-spread eagle placed above the front door.
I continued around the corner to Princes Street which was developed during the 1860’s in the time of the Central Otago gold rush. Dunedin had climbed to be the largest and wealthiest cities in the country thanks to the economic boom created by the thousands of miners who flocked to the city before heading off in search of gold. Consequently that makes Princes Street one of New Zealand’s most historic streets. Although there are many fine, historic buildings along the stretch of road, I took the opportunity to stroll past a few of the less than picturesque buildings.
I emerged from the museum to find the rain had ceased. I can’t say the sky had cleared at all as it remained grey, overcast and gloomy yet brighter at the same time. I decided to venture through town and take a wander around the Warehouse Precinct. Before long I came across No Name Alley which features a splash of street art on the wall, a restored building and a new working brewery that serves both pizza and beer which is always a winning combination.
While I was in the Animal Attic at the Otago Museum it also gave me the opportunity to view the single greatest exhibit on display in the building. The Museum has many fascinating sights including the skeleton of a 17 metre long fin whale which has been hanging from specially designed and built iron girders since 1883. Before going on display, the whale was owned by Captain William Barry, an ex-whaler who made a living from lecturing throughout New Zealand. After exhibiting the skeleton at a store in Nelson, he toured the country with the whale and at one point held a dinner party in its jaws. However, as impressive as the fin whale is, it doesn’t beat ‘The Rat King.’
A Rat King is formed when the tails of a group of rats become tied together in a way that they cannot escape. Usually the tails are knotted and entangled with straw, hay, hair or other material found close to their nests. Whenever I’m at the Otago Museum, I make a point of visiting the Rat King. It consists of eight Black rats whose tails are tangled together with horse hair. The rats had fallen from a nest that was located in a local shipping company shed in the 1930’s. I’d like to own it. I’d put it on display on the mantelpiece in our living room. I think it would really tie the room together however my wife disagrees.
My next stop was the Otago Museum. I didn’t have a particular reason to be there beyond it was indoors and they would let me take photos. On the top floor in the Animal Attic I found a special exhibition of life-sized sculptured animal skeletons by artist Michele Beevors, all of which feature knitted anatomy. It was very interesting in a sorrowful kind of way.
After being in the rain for some time, I decided I needed an indoor location to photograph and dry off. Somewhere I could happily wander around and leave wet footprints as a sign that I had been there. For a while I’d been meaning to visit the grand, stately home of Olveston which is located in an inner city suburb and this appeared to be the perfect time for a casual wander around the place.
Further down the hill the fog had grown thick. The rain hadn’t eased at all, if anything it became more intense. It had turned into a heavy mist that managed to settle on every surface imaginable. Cars appeared out of the gloom from Three Mile Hill and disappeared just as quickly. It was like a great nothingness had settled over the city. It was then I decided that I was wet enough for one afternoon. I made up my mind to find an indoor location to wander around and photograph for an hour or so.
Making my way back to my car, I decided to take a scenic route through the bush. Water fell from the trees in a steady flow. I walked through a thick bed of leaves and fallen branches before coming across a stream at the bottom of a bank. This I followed for a few minutes, scrambling over rocks and logs until I came across a closed access road. Emerging from the bush and stream, I located my car where I’d left it and discovered I seemed to be considerably damper than I had first thought.
The city had disappeared under a low cloud of fog and mist that had brought with it the type of gentle rain that never seems to get any harder nor go anywhere. My morning had been spent nearly buried under a pile of paperwork while at the same time spending many hours in front of a computer screen. As the clock past 1pm, I decided it was time for a change of scenery. Since the city was hidden by a white veil, it seemed only logical to head up into the hills where the roads snaked its way through the trees to the flat plains beyond.
The track which had obviously been recently maintained quickly narrowed into a gorge or ravine valley type area. Two minutes later I reached another fence line with a sign that said “Wild animal control operations using firearms are currently being undertaken in this area.” This brought an obvious question to mind. Should I be more worried about the wild animals or the firearms being used to control them?” More nervous than ever, I pushed on.
As the track continued, a thought suddenly crossed my mind. Maybe the reason I’ve never heard of this place is because no one ever ventures out alive? Such are the dangers of the New Zealand bush or walking tracks for that matter. You not only have to survive the maniacs on the road just to get there, but when you do, there’s numerous water obstacles, hunters and wild animals to elude. What a glorious country this is!
The Otago University is a grand place in spring. There’s lots of old buildings made of stone that have been lovingly carved and maintained over the years. Then, there’s new buildings that have been constructed giving a wonderful blend of old and new around the campus. In spring, it’s all linked together with colourful blossoms.
It seems that statues of Scottish poet Robbie Burns are rather popular. As far as statues go, there are over sixty known memorials, statues, busts and fountains of the famous Scottish poet around the world with at least twenty throughout Scotland. In fact, there are at least three in Dumfries where he died aged 37 in 1796. That puts the famous bard third in line after Christopher Columbus and Queen Victoria in statues dedicated to non-religious figures worldwide.
If you try to imagine all of this area being water with the shoreline somewhere in the distance along the line of the buildings, it’s quite a change. Once where ships used to rest, a state highway now runs carrying all sorts of motorised vehicles. Some of which actually know what a red light means!
It wasn’t long before I arrived in the Octagon. Only being a short walk on foot from the railway station and with it being a still and pleasant afternoon it seemed a lovely idea to enjoy the sunshine while admiring some of the older buildings in the city centre.
Leaving the Dunedin Railway Station once all the passenger’s from the cruise ship had hurriedly departed back to Port Chalmers I took a moment to take in the quiet square that looked up Stuart Street to the Octagon. It was like the calm following a brief but intense storm. It was then that I noticed one of the City Council’s Heritage Walk plaques on the ground. I see these from time to time however I’ve never actually paid them much mind or contemplated doing the entire walk. I vowed this was something I was going to do before the year was out!
The other day I glanced past a brief news item in the local paper without giving it much thought. Some time later, I reflected on that moment wishing I’d given it more attention. The brief article stated that the Westerdam cruise ship carrying 1916 passengers and 817 crew was due to dock in Port Chalmers at 8am before leaving again at 6.30pm. The reason these details are important is that I found myself at the Dunedin Railway Station at precisely the time that every single passenger from the ship decided to look inside the foyer of the railway station. What’s more, having my camera setup on a tripod created a great deal of excitement and interest and they all felt the need to ask me what I was doing! This I didn’t mind however it was a bit repetitive.
Finding myself with a few minutes to spare and not having any particular plans, I headed out to a nearby beach as the last light was starting to fade from sight. It was one of those still, moody evenings where a touch of colour lingered in the sky for a moment before slipping from sight.
I do like using textures in a photo, they’re a lot of fun and it’s easy to let your imagination go wide. This was an older photo I took one morning while travelling through Merton in East Otago. It was looking a bit bland so I got creative with a number of layers of textures.
Puddles can be a wonderful source of subject matter for photographs, the only problem is that usually you need to get down really low to catch the reflections. Typically it’s just been raining, meaning you need to be prepared to get your knees a little wet while keeping an eye out for traffic.
Beaches are amazing places at sunrise during summer. In the early hours when the day is still silent, the air is warm and the colours of the sky reflect in the surrounding windows it becomes a place of magic.
… from a Small City. My daily musings from Ōtepoti to get you inspired. Read the blog, view the photos, embrace the creativity.
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