The Animal Attic – Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

I awoke to rain! I stood at the window gazing out to a white mist, where a city used to be. Judging by the ground, it had been raining for some time and the lack of wind indicated that these conditions were settling in for a long stay. Watching the rain fall into large ponds that would probably start attracting wildlife, I stood somewhat dumbfounded in Dunedin’s summer weather. You would think after all these years it would be something I was used to, alas no. Every year when December rolls around I prepare myself for the best summer ever, hoping for long, hot, warm days lasting for weeks on end. However, usually by the end of January I’m resisting the temptation to light a fire, lamenting a summer that never really got started. On this occasion, I gave up all hope of seeing a beach, instead I opted for the museum. I had been wanting to photograph a lion display and this seemed like as good a time as any.

Rongo – Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

I finished my walk in bright sunshine at the Rongo Stone Memorial located on a large grass verge of road connecting the city’s harbour to the Otago Peninsula. The stone named Rongo is from Taranaki which commemorates the Māori prisoners transported to Dunedin between 1869 and 1879. 

As I read the inscriptions after visiting the nearby caves, I remember the stories I had heard as a child. Growing up my understanding was that Māori prisoners were held inside at night while building the road to the harbour during the day. This was in fact not true. The caves were used for storage while the groups of men sent down from Taranaki were prisoners who had supported an uprising against the Crown over unjust land confiscation in the 1870’s. 

The 74 prisoners were originally sentenced to death for high treason, but had their sentences commuted to imprisonment and hard labour and transported to Dunedin. Over the 25 months they spent in Dunedin, 18 men died, mostly from illness caused by the damp prison conditions and the sleeping arrangements.

Ten years later at Parihaka in the Taranaki, following another confrontation between government officials and local iwi, more arrests were made and a further 200 prisoners were sent to Dunedin, sentenced to hard labour. 

The men from Taranaki ended up making significant contributions to Dunedin’s transport network as they cut through stone and hill to make a connection between Maitland Street and Princes Street and built portions of the main road from Dunedin to Port Chalmers. In the sunshine as I reflected on some of the shameful acts in New Zealand’s history, I was glad I knew the truth.

Caves & Doors– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

When I was younger there were all sorts of myths surrounding what the blocked up caves on Portobello Road were used for. These I passed as my walk came near to an end. When the causeway was under construction in the 1870’s, they were used for storing explosives. I prefer to imagine they had some sort of shady link to the notorious Victorian Pleasure Gardens that once sat directly above it. 

Peninsula Cycleway– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

One of the truly genius ideas of recent times has been the addition of a walking and cycling path along the peninsula road. No more are long lines of traffic held up by a slow moving cyclist holding up traffic as they battle a head wind down rocketing down the harbour. Now the locals can happily slalom their way into town in cars, using the center line as nothing more than guide, leaving walkers such as myself happy and safe to enjoy the delights of the harbour. At one point I rounded a bend to meet a slight headwind, not strong enough to spoil the day but enough to make it difficult if you were on a bike. Just then, a family on bikes appeared. Watching families on outings like these is always a curious thing. In general, the Dad is always out the front having a wonderful time while the mum is left trying to encourage an unhappy child who looks ready to give up at any moment. On this occasion there was a second child desperately trying to keep up with Dad while a third trailed the mum with a look that suggested this wasn’t the ‘fun day out’ that had been promised. As they passed, I mentioned what a great day it was to get an ice cream at Mac Bay. It didn’t seem to help matters! 

Macandrew Bay Store– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

The camp track was used as an access point to get building materials from Broad Bay, up to the castle. I tried to imagine the motivation that would have been required to transport some of the stone and timber up the hill to what was then known as “The Camp.” My attention soon quickly turned to Broad Bay. Known to local māori as Whaka Oho Rahi (meaning  ‘a place of plenty’) it was once a location where food was gathered like kaimoana. After European settlement populated the area it became a popular ‘holiday resort’ and boating location. In the early 20th century Broad Bay hosted an annual New Year’s Day Regatta where crafts sailed from Dunedin to the bay. 

Leaving Broad Bay behind my walk now took me to Macandrew Bay which is another delightful peninsula community. There’s an art gallery, a playground, a boating club, a popular family beach and a dairy which happily satisfies the ice cream cravings of many youngsters. 

The Camp Track– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

Pleased with my decision to walk down hill instead of up, it wasn’t long before I reached the beginning of the camp track. Like most tracks on the peninsula it crosses private land, something I wasn’t entirely sure would happen in other countries. I couldn’t help but reflect how fortunate I am to live in a society where landowners are happy to freely let people walk on tracks over their land, as long as the gate is kept shut. I always think it’s one of the most joyous signs to see in New Zealand, old faded signs that are partially covered in long grass that say “please shut the gate.” The next while was spent enjoying the splendid views from the Camp track that took me down to Broad Bay.

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Harbour Cone looking out to Taiaroa Head– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

When Larnach’s Castle was being built in 1871 it was named “The Camp.” Today the name lives on in not only the road leading up to the castle, but the track that leads up from Broad Bay to the Castle. After leaving the castle, I continued along the road that went around the side of the expansive property and headed down hill to where the track started. Along the way I couldn’t help but stop and admire the view that took in the sweeping surrounds of Harbour Cone and out to Taiaroa Head. It truly is a majestic sight.

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Larnarch’s Castle– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

Next, I decided to return to the peninsula as there were many places that I wanted to revisit while the weather was good and I had the time. Having already ventured around the Soldiers Monument, I now decided to continue along Highcliff Road to Pukehiki where I would turn onto Camp Road, heading around Larnach’s Castle before meeting up with the camp track which would take me down to Broad Bay. From there I’d walk along Portobello Road to Andersons Bay Inlet. This was a distance of some 18 kilometers and with the sun shining it seemed a perfect day for an adventure.

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Bethunes Gully Light– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

I had a look around Bethunes Gully which is a wonderfully charming area at the north end of Dunedin. I spent an afternoon wandering along tracks, dodging mountain bikes, walking over bridges, splashing in streams, watching the light shift in the trees and listening to birdlife. How pleasant and agreeable Dunedin is. 

Cobb & Co Coach– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

In 1872, English author Anthony Trollope landed in Bluff from Melbourne and looked over a somewhat raw port town to begin his two month trip around the colony. While there were many memorable moments in his journey, it was his coach ride from Queenstown to Dunedin that lasted long in his memory. 

The journey from Queenstown to Dunedin usually took three days via coach, and while it wasn’t the most comfortable of trips, it certainly was better than walking. Trollope’s party setout from Queenstown but due to the winter weather, their progress was slow. It took several days to travel as far as Roxburgh where they stopped for the night. The next day, not long after departing at 6am, they encountered a furious snowstorm that slowed their progress even further, forcing them to call in at the small town of Beaumont for the evening. After resting for the night, Trollope’s party and their heavy load proceeded to Lawrence. Unfortunately the heavy snow was too much for the horses who were left to pull the coach while all the passengers walked for five hours through snow and mud until they reached their lodgings in Lawrence. The following day, they continued their travels to Milton which included Trollope having to get out twice to dig first the coach and then the horses out of the snow. 

Once arriving in Milton, their journey was made easier by way of a made road through to Dunedin. So it was that at 8:00pm – fourteen hours after leaving Lawrence, Trollope’s weary party arrived in Dunedin, which he described as “a remarkably handsome town.”

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St Clair Summer Change– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

Having left the village of Taieri Mouth and returning to Dunedin, I found the next day reasonably calm and clear. A cold front was meant to roll up the coast however since the sun was out, it seemed a perfect chance to find an out of the way path to stroll along. I soon found a walking track along the St Clair coastline that seemed ideal. The only problem was that at this precise time the fine summer spell of calm, hot days was broken and out of nowhere a south westerly change brought wind, and rain. At that moment summer seemed to change.

Moturata Island– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

I always liked the idea of walking to Moturata Island. I’ve read on more than one occasion that you can do so when the tide is low. The only trouble with this plan is that I’m not completely confident I would make it back in time. Māori tribes called the island Rata Island due to the dense forest of giant rata that covered the island from crown to sea shore. Traveling tribes use to stop at the island as they sailed up and down the coast in waka. Then, from 1839 to 1841 Edward and George Weller operated the Taieri Whaling Station from the Island. Johnny Jones temporarily revived the station in 1844, employing more than twenty men. Later, from 1862 to 1864 pilots on the island flew signals concerning the state of the river mouth to warn vessels proceeding up the river with passengers and goods for the goldfields. These days the island is a native reserve and is home to many protected seabirds, notably yellow-eyed penguins. Even migrating whales are making a comeback, occasionally being seen in the area.

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They Never Returned– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

As I wandered around the small village of Taieri Mouth, again I found myself taking in a monument to soldiers who lost their lives in war. This one was decoratively made out of stone, stood about waist high, featuring a compass and included the words ‘for those who left and never returned.’ As I read and took in my surroundings, I let my thoughts drift, not settling on anything in particular until my attention was drawn to Moturata Island.

Taieri Mouth Fishing Boats– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

I like wandering around fishing boats, they seem to hold a noble calling that dates back to the romantic age when everyone traveled by sea. This is something I like more in theory than practice as I certainly don’t have sea legs, nor do I have a stomach for fresh fish, so spending any time on a fishing boat holds no appeal at all. However, I can see why others might like it. I guess it’s the aged look fishing boats have that I find interesting, and what stories they could tell.

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Taieri River Hues– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

When I was younger, we often went to the beach at Taieri Mouth. I remember always asking if we could stop for an ice cream at the shop on the way home. Usually we did, this was then followed by attempts to stop it dripping all over the back seat of the car until we reached Dunedin or a towel was needed. It had been a considerable time since I had last been to the small finishing village and I was keen to see it once more. I remembered there being bush walks to do, a long beach to explore, old fishing boats to gaze at and all the charms that small villages by the sea hold.

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Buttercup Field– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

Continuing on, following the stone wall, a field of yellow then came into few on my right. Now here was something altogether unexpected. Who would have guessed that amongst the stone walls, old fence lines, cow and sheep poo, gorse bushes,  potholes and undulations I would find a field full of buttercups.

41 Peg Track View– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

My next task was to venture along a track to Tomahawk Lagoon. Being all down hill, I assumed this would be an enjoyably easy stroll over farm fields with delightful views of the Pacific Ocean. I had read that it was ‘well signposted’ to the picnic area at Tomahawk Lagoon and was also labeled “Advanced Tramping Track.” I assumed this was more of a rough guide than anything else! It wasn’t long before I discovered that my delightfully easy stroll was anything but. The grass was long and head height in places, perfect for concealing all sorts of objects like track marks, rocks and other objects that are good for tripping over. Adding to this fact was that it had recently rained. I can tell you that long grass holds a lot of water and for a surprisingly long time! However, it wasn’t long before I emerged drenched from the waist down, covered in all sorts of cuts and scrapes. Fortunately I came out on a field at one of those stone walls that seem to be able to last forever. The view I had been expecting opened up in front of me.

Harbour Panorama– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

Arriving at the last section of path, I pushed my way up over a weather beaten track and successfully climbed the last uphill section arriving at my destination. The war monument itself stands high above anything else around it and displays the names of 53 people from the Peninsula who lost their lives in the Great War. It really is an astonishing place. There was a brisk wind at my back, rain showers appearing and a panoramic 360 degree view of Dunedin around me.

Soldiers Monument Lookout – Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

The following morning Dunedin’s one-day heat wave ended and under heavy cloud cover I set off with an aim to reach the Soldiers Monument Lookout on the Otago Peninsula. From there, I would continue along one of the tracks that lead down to Tomahawk Lagoon and the beach. The thing about seeing Dunedin by foot is that there really aren’t many places you can walk without encountering a hill of some kind. On this occasion, I made my way up through the streets of Waverley before emerging on Highcliff Road where I followed a narrow path that offered wonderful views looking straight down the Harbour. When I had at last reached a viewing point that had been constructed for vehicles and people such as myself, I stopped to take in the scene before me. I stood for a while, marveling at the careful planning and ingenious thinking to place double power poles in a location to obstruct what would otherwise be an astonishing scene. After a few moments contemplating other possible features that could be erected to block the view, I headed off through the long grass.

Dunnerstunner– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

The next day, by 9am the temperature had already reached a staggering 15 degrees with the forecast predicting a whopping high of 27. By local standards, it was going to be sweltering. It always surprises me how early people in Dunedin get up when the temperature is predicted to reach such dizzying heights. This is probably more a case of not knowing when it might be like this again. It’s almost as if the local council has sent out an emergency text message warning people of extreme heat! On days like these, the people of Dunedin tend to get all the ‘must-do’ jobs done early, wear as little as possible and head for the beach. So, like everyone else who was determined to make the most of the day, I headed out the door, my lily white legs proudly on show for all to see.

James Macandrew– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

My walk finished by taking me past the Otago Settlers Museum, or Toitū which it is otherwise known as. Outside this museum, is a bust of a very grim and stern looking fellow called James Macandrew, which I now detoured past to see. 

James Macandrew was born in Scotland and was an early Otago pioneer. He had a distinguished political career, several places are named after him and of all the prison stories I know, the tale of James Macandrew is one of my favorites. Around the time of the 1860s when Otago was experiencing an economic boom that local’s misguidedly thought would last forever, James Macandrew was the Otago superintendent. A role that is a bit like a modern day mayor. However, after reaching the esteemed post, he was found guilty of fraud. Not keen on spending any time in jail, he declared his home a prison where he astonishingly continued to govern the province from. Three months later he was removed from his post, his declaration of his home being a jail was overturned and he was sent back to prison. 

Summer Colours– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

I had a look around Dunedin’s warehouse precinct which is filled with all sorts of old buildings and for a while enjoyed seeing all the summer colours that were reflecting in windows of the surrounding businesses.

Southern Rātā – Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

I strode past a line of Southern Rātā trees or Metrosideros umbellata as it’s known in the scientific community. The tree is a kind of a local Christmas tree as they flower into brilliant reds each year in summer. They also remind me of the Southland Rugby Team when it wins. I know it’s going to happen each year, yet I’m constantly surprised when it does.

Steamer Basin and Wharf– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

The next day I decided that my stroll around the wharf wasn’t nearly as extensive as I’d have liked, so I set off once again for the wharf without delay for another look around. My route soon took me along Portsmouth Drive where I found a strong north easterly wind rocketing through. Doing my best to navigate my way in the breeze, I eventually found myself once again at Steamer Basin. Apart from the wind, the day was fine and clear and all around the wharf there were little pockets of people happily getting covered in sea spray as they watched their lines bob up and down. I stood for a moment wondering how much fish they actually caught before a heavy gust of wind separated me from my hat. It was my cue to leave.

Street Art by Sickum– view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

I spent the afternoon strolling through the streets that surround Dunedin’s wharf with no real purpose. It had turned into one of those typical summer days in Dunedin where the light misty rain and 12 degree temperature was occasionally spoiled with patches of blue sky and a general feeling of warmth. I do like walking around Dunedin very much, I think it’s because I do it so little that I’m always surprised with what I find. On this occasion as I turned a corner I came across a piece of street art by someone called Stickum. It was a bright and lovely mural that highlighted all the different cultures and people which settled in the area. That, or the artist wanted to paint a massive Octopus and needed to find some other ways to make it relevant. As I stood taking it in, a Holden Colorado 4WD came around the corner and gave me half a dozen friendly blasts of his horn to remind me that standing in the road wasn’t a good idea. In response, I was tempted to point out that I was only taking up a meter or two of space and that we in actual fact drive on the left hand side of the road in Aotearoa with a speed limit of less than 80km in the inner city, however as I wasn’t feeling particularly brave, I withheld a friendly and I poilently moved. That’ll show ‘em!

The Octagon– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

Once you’ve lived in Dunedin for a while, there are certain assumptions about the place that you just come to accept. One is that it’s cold and raining all the time with absolutely no distinction between winter and summer. Another is that there really isn’t much to do and yet another is that the students are always drunk and if you leave a couch unattended on Castle Street and it magically transforms into a smoldering pile of ash, you’ve got no-one to blame but yourself. 

If you mention to anyone north of the Waitaki River that you plan on spending some time in Dunedin, you’ll inevitably find yourself in a conversation that includes the words drab, cold and ordinary. You’ll find yourself being advised to pack a rain jacket, an extra layer of clothing and maybe spend some time visiting Central Otago. 

Personally, I take a different view. I find it a place of wonder, curiosity and energy. Yes, it can be cold at times but you don’t live in Dunedin for the weather. There’s a warmth to the city that is all together pleasant with an unwritten charm. Or, as the city’s Scottish founders might say, ‘it’s a bonnie wee place.’ It’s a place that celebrates the Bagpipes, Kilts, Haggis and Oatcakes. There are traditional Scottish Whisky Bars, an annual celebration to poet Robbie Burns and plenty of street names that have been taken from the Scottish Capital City. It even has its own tartan! And if that isn’t worth celebrating, I don’t know what is! 

I recently had arrived home from my summer holidays, and now considering myself a local tourist, I set about planning how on earth I was going to post a new photo every day on my blog for an entire year in an effort to rediscover what it is I love so much about Dunedin. I had camera gear to check, Spotify playlists to adjust and just enough time left in the day to walk to the Dunedin wharf and Steamer Basin.

Otago Coast– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

I like Dunedin, it’s one of the few cities in the world where you can walk down the main street in your pajamas and be slightly overdressed. 

I’d spent the last wee while in Wellington, where amongst other things I’d poked myself in the eye taking off my mask, accidentally ordered a vegetarian breakfast and nearly knocked over an entire row of bookshelves in Whitcoulls during a momentary loss of equilibrium. However, now it was time to return home and so it was that I found myself re-entering Dunedin on an Air New Zealand Flight on a fine and settled Saturday afternoon. 
It seemed quite prophetic to be returning to Dunedin, I had set myself the goal of publishing a new photo every day on my blog for a year and now as the reality of the task settled upon me, I wasn’t even sure I had time for it. Yet, I arrived at Dunedin Airport, eager to reconnect with what it is I love so much about this place I call home

St Paul’s Cathedral and Municipal Chambers – Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

It was a cold and windy Sunday afternoon in early November, 1978 when I arrived in Dunedin. It was Guy Fawkes and soon the air was to be filled with all sorts of lights and noises that would make it hard to get a 2 year old to sleep. 

That year across the world John Travolta and the Bee Gees had set dances floors alight with the disco hit Saturday Fever; the Sex Pistols had decided that after making one album playing together wasn’t fun anymore and split up, while across Europe at the Vatican, Pope Paul VI passed away after spending 15 years at the head of the Catholic Chuch.

In New Zealand the population had decreased to 3.1 million with the Prime Minister at the time being Robert Muldoon (this of course was years before he got drunk in parliament and called a snap election, which he lost!). Across the country people had been delighted with the national medal haul of 20 at the Commonwealth Games held in Edmonton – Canada, the band Hello Sailor produced the album of the year and Kawerau crooner John Rowles had been named vocalist of the year. The AM broadcast band had moved from 10 kHz to 9 kHz, a programme called Fair Go was the best information show on TV and the 85th National Chess Championships were held in Tauranga. 

So, while Wellingtonian Craig Laird was winning the crowning glory of the New Zealand Chess world, a Dunedin man called Cliff Skeggs was starting his second year as Mayor of the southern city. That year the spring temperatures in Dunedin had fluctuated between extremes, this was something I was to find out much later was actually quite normal. Heading towards the end of spring that year, Dunedin had been cool and wet, however, the local trolley buses continued to rattle with prams precariously perched on the front and at the local supermarket you could purchase a kilogram of Ham Steaks for $4.50, three 750ml bottles of Coke for $1 and a head of lettuce for 35c. That November in town Hallensteins had a sale on men’s stubbies that featured a half elastic back, 1 hip pocket and came in colours of white, green and brown or fawn for only $5.99. The once popular Tuck-Inn Burger on Princess Street went into receivership. That year it would hail on Christmas Eve and snow on Good Friday in 1979.

All of this, I wasn’t aware of as being only 22 months old, mastering the art of walking and talking were much more pressing issues in my life up to that present point in time.  The move my family made from Auckland that November day I was quite oblivious too and while I didn’t know it at the time, it would affect my life most wonderfully in the years to come. 

I mention all of this because I recently found myself once again experiencing the same sense of wonderment as if I was taking Dunedin in for the first time. You see, back in March 2020, due to the Covid-19 pandemic, New Zealand shut its international borders to anyone who wasn’t a New Zealand citizen or permanent resident. Since then they have rarely been open and we have all been forced to take our holidays locally. Even the Prime Minister urged us all to ‘see our own backyard.’ 

I assumed she meant this figuratively and not literally. The possibilities started to spark in my mind. I could explore and experience Dunedin, reconnecting with its identity with all the fascination of a tourist while feeling all the comforts and insider knowledge of a local. I could write and photograph about my own backyard. After all, the Prime Minister had told me to do so and it didn’t seem right to argue with her. I would call it Jacinda’s Law.  I particularly liked the idea of rediscovering all the nooks and crannies of Dunedin that I had forgotten about. I would set myself  the challenge of posting a new photo every day on my blog from my beloved home. I also liked the thought of being able to answer people when they asked me why I was doing it. I would adjust my gaze over the horizon and say with a look of thoughtful confusion ‘because Jacinda told me too’.