Heritage Walk 1

DCC Heritage Walk 1 – Buy 

Leaving the Dunedin Railway Station once all the passenger’s from the cruise ship had hurriedly departed back to Port Chalmers I took a moment to take in the quiet square that looked up Stuart Street to the Octagon. It was like the calm following a brief but intense storm. It was then that I noticed one of the City Council’s Heritage Walk plaques on the ground. I see these from time to time however I’ve never actually paid them much mind or contemplated doing the entire walk. I vowed this was something I was going to do before the year was out!

Dunedin Railway Station

Dunedin Railway Station – Buy 

The other day I glanced past a brief news item in the local paper without giving it much thought. Some time later, I reflected on that moment wishing I’d given it more attention. The brief article stated that the Westerdam cruise ship carrying 1916 passengers and 817 crew was due to dock in Port Chalmers at 8am before leaving again at 6.30pm. The reason these details are important is that I found myself at the Dunedin Railway Station at precisely the time that every single passenger from the ship decided to look inside the foyer of the railway station. What’s more, having my camera setup on a tripod created a great deal of excitement and interest and they all felt the need to ask me what I was doing! This I didn’t mind however it was a bit repetitive.

Vogel Street

Vogel Street – Buy 

Puddles can be a wonderful source of subject matter for photographs, the only problem is that usually you need to get down really low to catch the reflections. Typically it’s just been raining, meaning you need to be prepared to get your knees a little wet while keeping an eye out for traffic.

David Bethune & Bethunes Gully

Bethunes Gully – Buy 

It’s not always monarchs, lords and ladies and those who come from a high nobility that get places named after them. To prove this point, David Bethune is a good example. David Bethune started as a butcher in Edinburgh during the 1860’s before he emigrated to Otago with his family in 1862. Once living near Dunedin, and in between twice being declared bankrupt, he ran a timber business and slaughter yard in North East Valley. In his later years he developed a drinking problem before dying in 1903 at a boarding house in Dunedin. 

These days, his name lives on as the property where his timber yard once stood has now been turned into a 86 hectare reserve known as Bethunes Gully.

Purakanui Coast

Purakanui Coast Buy 

On a task to survey land in the South Island in the early 1840’s, it was Frederick Tuckett’s intention to travel by foot from Port Cooper (Lyttelton) to Otago Harbour. But, unable to find anyone to carry his bags he was forced to change his plans. Instead, he sailed to Moeraki where Tuckett landed. He walked down the coast to Waikouaiti, from there he set out overland to Otago Harbour, accompanied by three men from a local iwi. 

Upon arrival at Waitati, there was some debate. The men from the local iwi wanted to travel around the coast by way of Purakanui. However, Tuckett was focused on seeing the land behind the hills and so the party set off into the thick bush, hacking and slashing their way as they went. 

To the local Māori this was a foolish way to travel and implored Tuckett to stop and turn back but not to be deterred, Tuckett pushed on and until at last they reached a ridge where they caught sight of Otago Harbour. They camped and the next day pushed their way through the bush before emerging in Deborah Bay.

Ko te Tuhono

Ko te Tuhono, by Ayesha Green – Buy 

Officially, the Octagon in Dunedin was made a public reserve 168 years ago in 1854. The Octagon was part of English surveyor Charles Kettle’s 1846 plan for the new city which would feature a large Octagonal area in the centre of the city with a small octagonal reserve in the middle. 

Once construction of the new city started with dwellings of all kinds being added, the Octagon stood empty for many years before any major structure of any kind was added. The first being a monument to William Cargill who was leader of the Free Church migration to Otago which was erected in 1864. Since then, monuments have been moved, added and replaced. Star Fountains have been added and dismantled and all kinds of upgrades have taken place. 
One of the latest additions is this sculpture called Ko te Tuhono, by Ayesha Green.

Postscript: 100 in 20

Nautical Colours

Boating in Broad Bay – Buy 

When the New Zealand Company’s chief Surveyor, Captain William Mein Smith left Otago Harbour sometime in the early 1940’s, he wasn’t too impressed. 

Having been sent down from Wellington to report on the suitability of the harbour as a place for a settlement, Captain Smith spent five days taking a boat around the harbour before departing with the view that there was ‘little arable land in sight’ and not many ‘desirable places’ to build a town. 

In the years preceding Captain Smith’s visit, the Otago Harbour had become a busy place. There had been local Māori iwi living in tribes along the coast for some time but the arrival of Europeans, brought to the area to hunt Seals and Whales, meant a steady stream of boats started to grace Otago Harbour. The whaling station which was operated by the Weller Brothers from Sydney had based their operations near the harbour entrance at a place called Otakou and it had grown to be one of the biggest in the country. At its peak producing 310 tons of oil in 1834. However, by the early 1840’s the whale population had been hunted so extensively that there remained little money to be made and population numbers in the Otago Harbour significantly dwindled. 

When Captain Smith arrived a few years after the whaling industry ceased, he came to survey the region as a place for potential further colonisation. He found small pockets of both Europeans and Māori living in the area but he concluded that there were very limited suitable places to build a town. Before departing the Otago region, he did make one recommendation however, he concluded that if any region would be favourable for a town it would be the areas now known as Portobello or Broad Bay.  

Postscript: A little bit of Ōtepoti ….

Beloved

A waterfall in the Otira Gorge by Petrus van der Velden – Buy 

What a joy Art Galleries are. That is, if you like wandering in silence looking at pictures. If you don’t, then I’d imagine they would be rather dull places. I guess it would be similar to expecting everyone to enjoy going to see the All Blacks at Eden Park or Manchester United at Old Trafford. Personally, I love art galleries so one afternoon having found myself caught in a rainstorm, I ducked into the Dunedin Public Art Gallery to pass the time until the rain passed. They also let me set up my camera for a bit as it was reasonably quiet.

Postscript: A little bit of Ōtepoti ….

The Dunedin Coastline

The Dunedin Coastline Buy 

In bright sunshine on a clear afternoon I found a track that led its way along a section of the Dunedin coastline. The grass was long and overgrown yet the track was well worn and showed signs of many travellers who had passed this way. I found a spot that looked out beyond the cliffs where I might view the changing tide and shifts in wind.

Port Chalmers

Port Chalmers – Buy 

Located 15 kilometres northeast of Dunedin city, Port Chalmers holds the unique place in history as the landing spot of the Scottish Free Church settlers in 1848, New Zealand’s first successful shipment of frozen meat departed for Britain in 1882 and the ill-fated Robert Falcon Scott expedition to the South Pole left Port Chalmers for Antarctica on 19th November 1910.

If you’re interested in a walk, you can start at one end of the main street stroll in one giant loop. There’s a charming mix of both Victorian and Art Deco buildings that make up the main street. The shops are the endearing type that sell pottery, hats, jewellery and fine art. There’s art galleries, community spaces, monuments and the traditional convenience outlets of takeaways, a dairy and chemist. The cafes and tearooms are the charming sort where you can happily spend an afternoon sharing coffee with friends. Leaving the main street, you can explore the Iona Church, the Lady Thorn Rhododendron Dell, The Port Chalmers Town Belt and The Robert Falcon Scott monument and Lookout. 

Finish by detouring up to the lookout to see the Hotere Garden Oputae. Situated on top of the Port Chalmers Flagstaff lookout, the garden was built in 2005 to mark the return of four sculptures to their home at Observation Point where they had previously displayed at the studio of Ralph Hotere. Somehow the Hotere Garden Oputae and seems to sum Port Chalmers up, a delightfully tranquil and charming place with some beautiful touches.

Outram Glen

Outram Glen – Buy 

What a delightful place Outram Glen is. It’s such a popular swimming spot as families enjoy the river which is lined with grass, shrubs and gravel beaches. The town of Outram is close by and it’s also the start of a number walking tracks. Also, as a wee side note, Outram was the first town in New Zealand to have electric street lights.

Night Moves

The Baker’s Dozen – Buy 

Earlier this year I developed a series of images called Night Moves. All the photos were taken after night fall and before sunrise. I based them all around a street here in Dunedin called Musselburgh Rise. This one was taken early in the morning after the Bakery had started for the day around 6am.

City Heritage Walks

Public Trust Offices In Moray Place – Buy 

If you like heritage and architecture, then there are a couple of good city heritage walks that you can do. Even if you don’t like buildings it is still a great way to navigate around the city. One walk takes you on a tour of the heritage buildings in Central Dunedin, another heads around North Dunedin and the University Campus while a third option is to tackle the now famous Street Art walk. This building, the former Public Trust Office building in Moray Place, while not on the list makes an interesting photo.

Evening Walk At The Beach

The Beach Locals – Buy 

I took an evening stroll at the beach as the light was fading from sight. The day had been warm and long and the thought of spending a few minutes walking with the sand between my toes seemed very delightful. Given it was midweek and the surf was better than average, I expected there to be more people hanging around than there were. Apart from the occasional couple casualing strolling to one of the nearby restaurants, there was hardly a soul around.

The Indigo Room & Pequeno

The Indigo Room and Pequeno Buy 

By day it is a mostly empty alleyway with a few cars, odd dimensions and some interesting pieces of street art that attract city walkers. In the early evening and into the night it’s a popular spot with unique bars like the Indigo Room and Pequeno Wine & Cocktail Bar which offer a nice relaxed ambience, a great range of cocktails and a wonderful vibe. If you’re looking for a spot to grab a few drinks after dinner or before heading out, these are some great options.

Lady Thorn Rhododendron Dell

The Lady Thorn DellBuy 

Sir John Thorn was born in Dunedin in 1911 and by the time he reached his late teens he had moved to the suburb of Port Chalmers to begin a plumbing apprenticeship. Living in the area, he went on to own a number of businesses that included a plumbing firm, a betting agency (TAB) and a bookshop. He married his wife Constance in 1936 and became Mayor of Port Chalmers in 1956. This was a position he went on to hold for 33 years until the borough of Port Chalmers and the surrounding district was amalgamated into the enlarged City of Dunedin in 1989. In total, he and his wife served the Port Chalmers community for nearly half a century, something he was knighted for in 1984. While his wife Lady Constance Thorn passed away in 1997, Sir John Thorn lived to the age of 97 until his death in 2008. 

When Lady Thorn passed away, the community wanted to do something to recognise her commitment and service to the Port Chalmers District. Nearby at the Port, there stood a disused quarry site that was used to supply bluish-grey stone to public works projects in the Port and around Dunedin city. It was this site that was chosen to develop into a Rhododendron Dell in honour of the Late Lady Thorn. 

Nowadays, the Dell features a numerous array of plants, bushes and flowers that have transformed the former quarry into something rather beautiful. It also features an elevated lookout that provides panoramic views of the harbour and Port Chalmers area. 

Having never been to the Lady Thorn Dell, upon my return from a trip out to Aramoana, I stopped and spent a lovely half an hour taking in every inch of the garden which really is a hidden gem.

Mellor Laboratories

Mellor LaboratoriesBuy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

With a mind to having a stroll through North Dunedin, I set off on a warmish kind of day that looked like it might break into both glorious sunshine and also rain, both at the same time! After a while, on my return journey I detoured through the University of Otago where among other things the entrance to Mellor Laboratories caught my eye. I admired the entrance structure which is a cross between mathematics, science and sculpture. While I was doing this, I recalled reading somewhere that the building was renamed after Joseph Mellor. Now, I’m not sure who Joseph Mellor is, but assuming he is no longer with us, I’m sure he’d be mighty impressed to have a building named after him.

Picton to Dunedin

South Island Sunset Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

The ferry docked in Picton on a stunning day. All the little bays and inlets that made up the Marlborough Sounds near Picton looked ideal for swimming and soaking up the sun. Driving off the ferry, it was the type of day that made me realise why so many people decide to spend an extra day or two in the area. 

Once off the ferry I stopped to refuel both the car and myself before starting the 692km journey home. Leaving Picton, I passed by Mount Pleasant, Koromiko and Spring Creek before taking the wrong exit at a roundabout in Blenheim, eventually finding the correct road that took me through the Weld Pass and on to Kaikoura.

It was somewhere along the Kaikoura coast, near the famous food truck Nin’s Bin that I started randomly pondering about the sights that I was passing. This led me to the conclusion that it’s amazing what you remember that you forget when you’re looking out a window. It also led me to several observations about driving in New Zealand:

Keeping left unless overtaking in a passing lane is apparently quite hard. 

Fields of Rapeseed are very pretty but have such an unfortunate name. 

The three waters bill doesn’t appear to be very popular.

You can always tell buildings that were once a petrol station. 

Fonterra trucks turn often.

There are plenty of places to buy bales of hay and horse poo.

If we are living in the digital age, how come there are parts of State Highway 1 where I can’t get coverage? 

State Highway 1 is no place for a restored steam tractor to be towing a caravan and a car, no matter how lovely and old it is. 

Snow capped peaks and high mountain ranges that sit on the edge of the horizon alway look lonely yet strangely enticing. 

I love the sight of Dunedin from the Northern Motorway when you’re travelling south.