Waianakarua

Daily Photo – Waianakarua Memorial Hall

A dozen kilometres before I arrived at the famed Moeraki Boulders, I came to the settlement of Waianakarua, home to “The Big Chicken”. A 6.6 metre-high chicken carved out of a macrocarpa tree, a local icon since 1978 and the 2025 New Zealand Tree of the Year. Well, right next door is the Waianakarua Hall. Like so many rural halls, it’s many things. It’s a dance floor, a meeting room, a polling booth, and a memorial. There are honour rolls with the names of sons of farmers and labourers who swapped paddocks for trenches. People who once knew the area intimately and found themselves learning the geography of Gallipoli and France instead. It was all very forgettable, in a memorable sort of way, if you get my meaning.

Waihao and the Waihao River

Daily Photo – Dirt Track near the Waihao River

I pulled over near the Waihao River on a still Canterbury afternoon. I had planned on walking for a bit along the river bank but it wasn’t completely accessible, which was a disappointment. Instead, I explored a dirt road that gave an obscured view of the river as it slipped quietly towards the sea. No dramatic gorge or thunderous rapids announcing its arrival. Just a steady current making its way through paddocks though it has all the time in the world.

The name Waihao comes from te reo Māori and is usually translated as “water of net fishing” or “water with eels”. Hao refers to the shortfin eel, once an important and reliable food source. It is a practical name, the sort that tells you what you need to know – less poetry, more instruction.

For generations the river has been significant to local iwi and hapū, including the Waitaha, Kāti Māmoe and Ngāi Tahu iwi, whose histories are connected through the landscape. Long before fences, bridges and survey lines cut the plains into neat geometry, this was mahinga kai country. Shortfin eels moved through the waters in season. Inanga flickered in the shallows. Freshwater mussels lay buried in the mud. The river was a pantry and pathway, sustaining communities while also guiding them.

Oral histories connect the area to the ancestral canoe Uruao and to explorers such as Rākaihautū and Rokohouia, who journeyed through Te Waipounamu naming lakes and rivers as they travelled. Stories of Paewhenua, a sacred adze, and of taniwha guiding travellers along the river add layers to the landscape, reminding us that waterways were understood not as scenery or resource alone, but as part of an identity.

Willowbank and the Iconic Yellow Barn

Daily Photo – The Iconic Yellow Barn

I came to a place called Willowbank, where I had the option to turn off State Highway 1 and head inland some six kilometres to Waimate. I was encouraged to do so by a large yellow barn by the side of the road which told me to “hop in for a visit,” accompanied by the silhouette of a wallaby. The irony here, of course, is that wallabies are considered an invasive pest. Millions are spent trying to control their numbers while they happily nibble their way through fence lines and pasture in the surrounding countryside. We have a man named Michael Studholme to thank for introducing them to New Zealand; a local runholder during the 1870s, he decided it would be a good idea to release them on his property as a novelty – a decision everyone has regretted ever since.

Yet, here they are, frozen mid-hop on a farm shed, inviting you in. It’s a very New Zealand contradiction: apologising for something while simultaneously putting it on the welcome sign. It’s a wee bit like Rotorua saying, “Welcome to the Sulphur City!” – we know it smells like rotten eggs, but please, come stay in our luxury hotels – or painting an aeroplane black to advertise the national rugby team, then flying it at night!

Anyway, I thought about heading into Waimate for a poke around to see if I could spot a wallaby, but the thought quickly passed, and I headed for the Waitaki River and Otago instead.

Blackett’s Lighthouse in Timaru

Daily Photo – Blackett’s Lighthouse in Timaru

The last time I stopped in Timaru I was a little hard on the dear old place. It had been a long drive and I had been stuck in a long convoy of traffic, which left me in a grumpy mood. The only park I could find was in front of a building that had seen better days. There were few coffee options in the area and the only one I found was terrible.

On this occasion I decided to give it another try and opted for a walk to Blackett’s Lighthouse, which then led down to the beach and shoreline of Caroline Bay. It was one of those warm summer days when the sky was clear, the wind had dropped and the tide drifted lazily in and out under the sparkling sun. If anything, it was altogether pleasant.

Temuka’s Most Famous Resident

Daily Photo – The Royal Hotel in Temuka

So on to Temuka, whose most famous resident was Richard William Pearse. Born in 1877 at Waitohi Flat, just eight minutes from the South Canterbury township, what makes him so remarkable is that nine months before Wilbur and Orville Wright achieved the world’s first sustained and controlled flight at Kitty Hawk on December 17, 1903, Pearse made his own attempt, albeit with a little less style and grace. Where the Wright brothers stayed airborne for a controlled 12 seconds, Pearse’s effort amounted to three seconds of uncontrolled jerking and bumping before crashing into a hedge. Nevertheless, it was an extraordinary achievement for a man working in near isolation, removed from society, tinkering away in a farm shed with little more than bamboo, tricycle wheels, wire, canvas, and a hand designed and built two cylinder combustion engine.

The Ellesmere Brass Band Hall

Daily Photo – The Ellesmere Brass Band Hall

According to the internet, Leeston is a charming rural town in Canterbury, offering a quiet escape with quality schools, plenty of local dining and numerous fishing spots. It has an oversized longfin tuna sculpture and even a brass band that’s one of the oldest in the South Island. I know this because I looked it up.

What it doesn’t tell you is that some idiot, who has forgotten how to drive, will cut you off as they pull onto the high street, forcing you to stop suddenly at a pedestrian crossing while two gentlemen make their way across the road at the sort of pace that suggests this is the only thing they’ve got to do all day.

Farm Field at Little River

Daily Photo – Farm Field at Little River

I rolled into Little River around mid-morning, it was a Monday, which normally means a place like this is easing itself slowly back to life. A few empty parking spaces along the main street, someone sweeping a doorstep, and the faint sense of a weekend just finished. Today things were a little different in the town of Little River. The main street was jammed with mud splattered utes with brand names like Toyota and Kia. What’s more they were all parked at odd angles – suggesting they had been abandoned mid thought, farm dogs barking at everything and nothing, while their owners stood in loose groups along the footpath dressed in shorts and Swanndris, pointing, laughing, and slapping hands with the sort of enthusiasm usually reserved for a Saturday night. With caution, I drove through the gathering and casually gave the customary New Zealand rural wave, lifting a single finger from the steering wheel without fully letting go, offering just enough acknowledgement to be polite paired with a small knowing smile that said I understood the rules even if no one had ever explained them. Then, suddenly that was it. I was leaving the town of Little River, the noise fading behind me, mud, dogs, laughter, and the feeling that everyone else was in on something, and I would have to spend the rest of my life not knowing what it was.

The Brainchild of William Coop

Daily Photo – Abandoned Home in Cooptown

Cooptown is a place that was meant to be something, but never really became anything. A town with a name, a school, and a dairy factory, it had desire and ambition, sitting quietly in the valley waiting for a future that never arrived.

It was the brainchild of William Coop, a local settler who arrived in the area in the late 1800s on the back of the sawmilling industry that was booming at the time. He subdivided the land, named it “Cooptown” (literally meaning Coop’s town), and hoped an independent township would blossom. Unfortunately for William Coop, it never became much more than an offshoot of the nearby town of Little River, which is just five minutes down the road.

Barry’s Bay on Banks Peninsula

Daily Photo – Barry’s Bay on Banks Peninsula

On a promise, I stopped at Barry’s Bay to purchase a specific selection of cheeses from the local shop. Not being a cheese eater, I felt quite out of my depth and had no real idea what I was looking for. Knowing it was inevitable that I would need help, I approached the counter, where a very helpful lady examined my list and, within seconds, a small pile of cheeses had formed in front of me. I made my purchases, bought a coffee, and stood looking out over the bay as the sky closed in.

Fenceline at Robinsons Bay

Daily Photo – Fenceline at Robinsons Bay

I spent the next few days strolling the streets of Akaroa, rummaging through shop shelves looking for nothing in particular, visiting museums, eating at cafés, walking the surrounding hills, and exploring bays and coves, with the occasional fence line blocking my path. There’s always a fence line blocking the way. That’s the thing about walking in rural New Zealand, if you wander for long enough, eventually you’ll come across a fence that needs to be negotiated. On this occasion it was entangled with weeds and driftwood. It seemed to come from nowhere and disappear into the water. Just what its purpose was, I couldn’t imagine. It seemed to be in such an odd place. But then again, when it comes to the intricacies of rural life, my own farming knowledge begins and ends with knowing which side of the fence I’m supposed to be standing on. And sometimes not even then.

The Wreck of the Cutter The Brothers

Daily Photo – Akaroa Lighhouse

When the small cutter The Brothers entered Akaroa Harbour on 10 November 1842, it was the end of a long and important trip. Captained by a man named James Bruce, the ship had been at sea for eight weeks, navigating uncharted, rocky coastlines and battling subantarctic conditions beyond Stewart Island and Foveaux Strait – mapping harbours, landmarks and whaling stations around the South Island. As the trip came to an end, the final leg of the journey was scheduled to sail to Wellington, after calling in at Akaroa Harbour. As had happened on so many occasions, the cutter was due to drop anchor so some of the eleven passengers could disembark and supplies could be collected before the final run to Wellington began. With charts, maps, field books, instruments and survey records on board, the trip had been a success and had gathered a wide range of information that was going to be used to map future settlements for the New Zealand Company, who were promoting colonisation at the time.

Entering Akaroa Harbour, the vessel was suddenly hit by a squall blowing off the hills, capsizing the ship, turning her keel up and, in the process, destroying all the records, maps and plans that had been meticulously collected on the two month voyage. Upon sinking, most of the people on board were able to scramble into the small lifeboat, but a woman and two children, caught below deck when the cutter rolled, were not so fortunate.

Akaroa in Afternoon Sunshine

Daily Photo – Akaroa in Afternoon Sunshine

By the time I’d made my way down through the hills of Banks Peninsula back to Akaroa township, the weather was starting to clear. Eventually, the misty, heavy cloud cover gave way to bright sunshine. The bays sparkled as the entire area seemingly came to life in the warm afternoon light.

I strolled through bays with names like Children’s, French, and finally, Glen. Filled with boats and wharfs, the harbor was a hive of quiet activity; tourist cruises came and went, and sightseeing tours disappeared around the point at the far end of Glen Bay, the gateway to the wider harbour and, eventually, the Pacific Ocean. I strolled and strolled, my pace matching the slow-natured feeling of the afternoon. Near the Akaroa Lighthouse, I found a weathered wooden bench overlooking the calm, blue water. I watched the town’s colonial charm sharpen under the clarity of the light. The white timber cottages, with their bright trim, looked like something out of a storybook set against the dramatic, emerald-green backdrop of the surrounding hills.

Wrights Lookout on Banks Peninsula

Daily Photo – Wrights Lookout on Banks Peninsula

The next morning I started the day by heading into the hills high above Akaroa on Banks Peninsula. On the map, I spotted a place called ‘Wrights Lookout.’ It’s one of those spots where the road feels like it’s deciding whether to keep going or give up. The harbour appears suddenly, far below, as if you’ve stumbled into an aerial photograph.

My guess is that it’s named after a family with the surname ‘Wright,’ who were likely early farmers or landowners in the area. On Banks Peninsula, this was the standard way places were named; features often took the surname of whoever farmed, owned, or lived on the surrounding run. In the early years of the settlement, I’m sure the family spent many an hour leaning on a fence post, watching the sheep, wind, and weather, doing what farmers do, probably never thinking they were creating a landmark.

Jetty at Akaroa

Daily Photo – Jetty at Akaroa

The pace of the journey dropped to a crawl. After the slow grind over the hills, I’d imagined myself arriving in the early evening to bright sunshine. I pictured it settling into a long, warm evening where the last of the tranquil summer light would linger before fading as night crept in. My plan was simple: sit in a warm garden bar, eat well, enjoy a few beers, and stumble to bed – tired but content.

Instead, what sunshine there was, had disappeared for the day, replaced by a brisk wind and heavy overhead clouds that threatened rain. It had been a long day, and I arrived in Akaroa feeling slightly disappointed with the weather. I dumped my bags in my hotel room, ate in a nearby restaurant, and retired to bed, still looking forward to exploring the town in what would surely be a sunny summer’s day.

Hilltop on Banks Peninsula

Daily Photo – Hilltop on Banks Peninsula

I headed northeast along State Highway 75 through the small settlements of Little River, Cooptown, and Puaha. I was aiming for Akaroa, tucked in a small bay on the eastern side of Banks Peninsula. The road wound its way, almost painfully slowly, over the rugged hills that separate the hundreds of tiny bays on the peninsula from the flat plains of the wider Canterbury region.

I drove and drove, the road twisting upward as the pace of the journey dropped to a crawl. At one point, the traffic was moving so slowly, thanks to an annoyance of campervans, that I pulled over to take in the views, which were quite magnificent. Before cresting the hill, the landscape undulates with rugged farmland that stretches over the peaks before giving way to hillsides that tumble through green pastures to the water’s edge. Then, suddenly, you’re faced with a quiet, dreamy landscape filled with bays and inlets that seem oblivious to the outside world, operating on a different timescale.

Annetta Maccioni & the Death of Frederick Butler

Daily Photo – Lake Forsyth on Banks Peninsula

If you stand on the shore of Lake Forsyth today and look up into the hills of Banks Peninsula, you’ll see the green slopes of Kinloch. Looking at those hills now, it’s hard to imagine that in the 1880s, this was thirteen thousand acres of curated Scottish hope.

Hugh Buchanan, a Scotsman with a memory for the Highlands, wasn’t just farming this area, he was recreating a lost home. But Kinloch didn’t end up in the history books for its merinos or its sixty-five miles of wire fencing, it became the site of a tragedy of historic proportions.

Annetta Maccioni was only nineteen, a daughter of Italian immigrants working as a housemaid at the Buchanan homestead. In those days, a job at Kinloch was a prestigious position which really meant heavy expectations and very little room for error. On April 27th, while dusting behind a heavy dressing-table mirror in the master bedroom, Annetta found a six-chambered revolver that belonged to Hugh Buchanan.  As Annetta handled the gun, Buchanan’s six-year-old son, Frederick, was playing nearby. In the space of a single click and a flash, everything changed. The gun fired and young Frederick was gone instantly.

The aftermath was a mess in many different ways. The local pub was turned into a makeshift courtroom, which feels strangely New Zealand, men drinking at the bar one minute and deciding a woman’s fate the next. While the jury ultimately saw it for what it was, a devastating accident returning a verdict of excusable homicide, the court of public opinion wasn’t so kind.

Frederick’s parents didn’t just grieve; they turned their pain into a weapon. They painted Annetta as a “darker” character, an outsider with a vindictive streak. The whispers in the surrounding settlements near Lake Forsyth were more like shouts, gossip that traveled faster than official news. Despite no evidence, she became a social pariah.

Left with little option, Annetta eventually vanished from the area, never seen near Lake Forsyth again.

Farm Field on the Outskirts of Tai Tapu

Daily Photo – Farm Field on the Outskirts of Tai Tapu

In Tai Tapu I called into a place called The Store, as I needed to use a bathroom. All the promotional advertisements outside promised a wonderful dining, coffee and shopping experience, so I assumed a place such as this would have the bathroom facilities I desired. Suddenly feeling an immense pressure in my bladder, ready to explode like the Clyde Dam spillway, I casually walked inside and immediately scanned the room for a sign indicating a bathroom.

As I quickly surveyed the room, not instantly seeing anything that resembled a bathroom sign, I became aware that about two dozen people all seemed to be staring at me, while a guy on an electric piano played New York State of Mind by Billy Joel. Clearly, I had walked into an afternoon music session, and the guest performer had been placed right on the edge of the dining room, within two or three metres of the front door. This meant that anyone entering the establishment like myself at this very minute immediately found themselves sharing centre stage with the afternoon’s entertainment. Feeling startled, and aware that everyone was now looking at me and not the talented guy on the piano, I did my best to casually stroll to the far side of the room, all the while trying not to knock anything over, ignore the steadily building pressure in my bladder, and desperately locate something that might resemble a bathroom. By sheer luck, I made it to the service counter, where a kind lady gave me a sympathetic smile and pointed towards an alcove at the far end of the room beside a patio. Above it was the word “Bathroom”, the doorway partially blocked by a family who were happily seated, swaying with their eyes closed in an impressive display of rhythmic timing.

Faced with an obstacle course between myself and relief, I spent the next few nanoseconds apologising as people shuffled their chairs to make way. At last, just as Moses parted the Red Sea, all the chairs suddenly moved aside and I had an unobstructed avenue to the bathroom. I was inside within seconds, and a very nice bathroom it was too. I was impressed, to say the least.

I emerged with a spring in my step and quietly exited via a side door I had not noticed. It opened onto the patio and into the car park. Feeling relaxed and once again at ease with the world, I climbed into my car and noticed a chalkboard sign that, due to my impressive display of angle parking, I had missed on arrival. It read, “Concert in progress. Please enter via the patio.” I left Tai Tapu in a sheepish frame of mind.

Moody Skies in Springston

Daily Photo – Moody Skies in Springston

I left State Highway 1 and headed for the small agricultural Canterbury towns of Springston and then Lincoln. The heavy, dark skies overhead were starting to close in and threaten rain. The day had been reasonably fine until this point, but the clouds above were dark and moody, giving the surrounding farm fields a gloomy feel. At one point I had it in mind to stop and go for a stroll, but I couldn’t find anything that looked appealing, so I simply pushed on to Tai Tapu.

Orari, The Canterbury Plains & The Southern Alps

Daily Photo – Orari, The Canterbury Plains & The Southern Alps

After Rakaia the scenery changed to vast areas of agricultural land, made up of an expansive network of patchwork fields, intensive dairy and sheep farming, and dramatic views of the Southern Alps. I was entering the Canterbury Plains, famous for the prevailing north-westerly winds that have slowly shaped trees and structures over decades. Everywhere I looked I was surrounded by flat pastures stretching towards distant tree lines under a heavy, overcast sky. I was separated from the busy highway by a simple wooden fence running along the edge of the grassy roadside.

Just when I thought the landscape was about to change, there were more expansive, flat farm fields bordered by wire fences. In the distance, farm buildings, lines of tall trees, more farm buildings and various other structures were dotted along the horizon. Every so often a dense line of tall trees, planted to act as windbreakers, bordered the fields, standing out against the thick layer of grey cloud hanging overhead.

Running parallel to this patchwork network of farmland was the Main South Line, keeping me company out of the passenger window and separating the agricultural plains from the Southern Alps, which sat silent and ominous on the edge of the horizon.

The Rakaia Graffiti Barn

Daily Photo – The Famous Rakaia Graffiti Barn

One of the great New Zealand traditions is that of the shed. It’s something that is deeply rooted in the culture of the country and is a place where some of the greatest technological advancements have taken place. It’s a space for innovation, relaxation, hobbies, projects, and tinkering and links directly to our “number eight wire” mentality. Generally speaking, the rule with a shed is that every property must have one and if you’re in a rural area, at some point you must abandon it and let the elements deal with it as it may. Then, after an appropriate timeframe, taggers will come along and use it as their personal canvas to write unintelligible things on it in bright neon-colours. 

On the way to Akaroa I passed a particularly popular shed on the main stretch of State Highway 1, a place where the graffiti changes so often it’s difficult to know whether you are looking at vandalism or a very aggressive exhibition schedule. It functions as an unofficial gallery for street artists, a sort of living canvas with no opening hours and no curator. The thing about graffiti, of course, is that it’s illegal and surprisingly difficult to deny responsibility once your work has been identified. In late 2025, a 23-year-old North Canterbury man was arrested in connection with more than 500 tags across Canterbury and Otago, a body of work that included public bridges, toilets, walls, rubbish bins, walkways, light posts, former gun emplacements, train tracks, water tanks, and drainage pipes. Proving himself to be, if nothing else, committed to his art.

The Amazing Colours of Pareora Beach

Daily Photo – The Amazing Colours of Pareora Beach

There is a specific kind of magic in the “in-between” places on New Zealand’s State Highway 1. Before reaching Oamaru, I decided not to join the busloads of people at the Moeraki Boulders and in Oamaru I detoured away from the white stone streets of the town. Just before Timaru, though, I saw a sign that read ‘Pareora’, a place about which I knew nothing and had never even heard of. No wonder. It is a tiny community tucked beside the Pacific Ocean, with a coastal landscape stripped back to its purest elements: a vast sky, a turquoise sea, and a shore of smooth, charcoal-grey stones.

What struck me first was the palette. I often think of beaches as golden, but here there was something deeply healing and magical about the cool tones of the stony shore. The dark pebbles made the Pacific Ocean look almost neon, a glacial blue that felt as though it belonged in a painting.

There are no cafés, no crowds, and no noise other than the rhythmic crunch, crunch, crunch of stones being dragged by the tide. I stood for a while, feeling the sun-warmed stones in my hand and breathing in the salt air.

New Zealand is famous for its grand mountains and deep fjords, but sometimes it is the minimal horizons that linger longest in the mind, and this was one of them. It was quite marvelous. It felt like standing at the edge of the world, where the only thing left to do is breathe.

Otaio Farm Field

Daily Photo – Farm Field on Otaio Cemetry Road

Usually I pass through Otaio and do not give the place much thought, apart from noticing the cemetery sign and wondering what it is like. On this occasion I decided to have a look. It was small, not far from the coast, and tucked between two farm fields. I strolled around for a bit, admiring the view, and read the inscriptions on the headstones, many of which were for those who never returned from World War I or World War II.

New Zealand’s contribution to the Allied war effort in World War I was massive. For a country with a population of less than one million, close to 20 percent of those eligible were recruited to serve, a higher proportion than any country except Britain. Around 100,000 New Zealand soldiers were sent to the battlefields, 17,000 of whom were killed and more than 41,000 wounded. There was barely a town or community in the entire country that was not affected. In cities, towns, and villages across New Zealand, war memorials were erected to honour the fallen. Hardly a surname was not represented, and some families lost all of their sons to the war.

George and Helen Lyall of South Canterbury had four sons who served in World War I: Gordon, William, Angus, and Hugh. Of the four who went to the battlefields, only Angus and Hugh came home. Gordon was killed in Belgium in 1917, and a year later his younger brother William lost his life in France. For the Lyalls, it was a huge family sacrifice. Four sons went overseas to serve, two were killed in action, and two returned. It was a heavy toll on one family, and one that was typical of many New Zealand households during the Great War.

Oamaru

Daily Photo – Oamaru Heritage

The only reason I headed to the heritage precinct in Oamaru was to have a look around the shops. The last time I was there, all the shops were shut, but this time they were open, so I was able to stroll in and out of the buildings and generally rummage through the shelves. But it was not anything I had not seen before, apart from the decorative bunting that hung across the street. Besides, it was a lovely warm, bright, sunny day, perfect for sitting on a nice patch of grass, having a bite to eat with a cup of coffee, and quietly deciding where to head next. And that is just what I did!

Totara Estate

Daily Photo – Domestic Sanity at Totara Estate

I came to the Totara Estate, an historic farm site managed by Heritage New Zealand and famous as the birthplace of the New Zealand frozen meat industry in the 1880s. It also kicked the country’s export industry into full gear. Before 4,460 frozen mutton and 449 frozen lamb carcasses departed Port Chalmers in Dunedin by ship in February 1882, New Zealand’s export commodities consisted largely of wool and grain. This technological breakthrough gave the country a major new export, at the same time making the world a much smaller place. And the 15,000-acre farm in North Otago known as Totara Estate sat at the very centre of this history-making achievement.

Sitting approximately eight to ten kilometres south of Oamaru, the property features wonderfully preserved 19th-century farm buildings, including a stable, cookhouse and meat-hanging sheds. The farm was a busy place, with up to 50 workers based on the estate, slaughtering between 300 and 400 sheep a day before they were cooled, sent by rail to Dunedin, frozen, and exported to London. The man behind it all was a Scot named Thomas Brydone. In short, Brydone was the practical force behind early refrigerated meat exports, the person who turned a risky idea that many did not believe was possible, into something that operated on a massive scale. In doing so, it connected New Zealand with the rest of the world and opened the door for butter and cheese to be sent to foreign shores.

The farm itself is wonderful to walk around. Even the domestic quarters have their own intrigue, with stone floors partly hollowed out by the boots of farmhands, deep knife grooves worn into old wooden tables, a kerosene lamp to read by, a tobacco jar, a hand-carved pipe, and a small washbasin. These early domestic objects offered small moments of comfort and sanity in a place that, let’s be frank, must have absolutely stank.

Hampden to Maheno

Daily Photo – Abandoned Farm House at Maheno

I pushed on through the East Otago countryside until I crossed over into the North Otago region. Here, the road continued to follow the coastline for a while before veering inland slightly, as the pastures gave way to a series of forestry plantations. Soon, the farm fields appeared once more, this time with a patchwork, checkerboard feel. On one side of the road, the paddocks would yield to classic coastline features like beaches and headlands; on the other, rolling hills connected with higher peaks that formed a natural barrier to the inland plains of Central Otago.

I passed through small settlements like Waianakarua and Herbert – both with their own unique, small-town New Zealand character. Waianakarua is particularly famous for the “Chook Tree,” or “The Big Chicken.” It is exactly what it sounds like: a chicken-shaped macrocarpa tree standing an impressive 6.6 metres high, complete with a head, body, and a Moeraki boulder for an egg. It has been a local icon since 1978 and was even awarded the 2025 New Zealand Tree of the Year – I didn’t even know such an award existed!

At one point, while passing through the community of Maheno, I stopped at Clarks Mill for a look around. It had been closed the last time I passed by, and I hoped that on this occasion it might be open, but it wasn’t. Instead, I turned my attention to an old dwelling in a nearby paddock. I imagined two old men in checked shirts sitting on the front porch, swapping tall tales and sipping whiskey long into the evening while the mill slowly went about its work.

Hampden

Daily Photo – The Hampden Soldiers’ Memorial

Hampden is one of those places most people only ever experience at 100 kilometres an hour. It slips past in the rear-view mirror as a blur of highway noise, a brief glimpse of the chippy announcing itself in a puff of steam, or people walking from the local shop with ice creams the size of their head, and then it’s gone. 

Two of the town’s more important historical events occurred within a few years of each other. The first was a visit by the newly appointed Bishop Richards, whose official arrival in February 1920 was celebrated with a special service followed by a garden party reception. The second was the unveiling of the Hampden Soldiers’ Memorial in 1922, erected on a local reserve. What made the Bishop’s visit particularly memorable was that it coincided with a sugar shortage, which had become quite the topic of conversation among local residents.

It seems Bishop Richards arrived in Hampden to find a town performing a delicate balancing act. The Bishop’s visit featured a special service followed by an elaborate afternoon tea featuring all sorts of sweet-treats, homemade of course, and requiring sugar. In the vicarage garden, parishioners maintained the polished rituals of an Anglican welcome, likely pooling their last cups of sugar to sweeten the Bishop’s tea, even as the so-called sugar famine threatened a basic commodity they relied on.

The scandal arose because one of Hampden’s two general stores had recently closed. At the time, sugar was distributed based on a store’s previous year’s turnover, meaning the remaining shop was unlikely to have been allocated the additional quota needed to serve customers from the now-closed store. The result was a town left with only half the sugar required to feed its population. A topic that was “quite the talking point” at the garden party.

The irony, of course, was that the visit from the newly appointed Bishop also brought with it a major social occasion, featuring an elaborate afternoon tea of scones, sponges, and jam tarts. Thus creating a quietly strange small-town tension between the demands of Victorian politeness and the very real anxiety of empty pantries. 

Shag Point

Daily Photo – Shag Point Reserve

Shortly after leaving Palmerston, having only just rejoined State Highway 1, I left it again and detoured through the small coastal settlement of Shag Point, a name that conjures up all sorts of wonderings about how it came to be, which I would guess is not nearly as salacious as one might think or hope. It’s a stunning coastline. In fact, at the risk of sounding controversial, I would like to suggest that the Shag Point coastline and the adjoining Katiki Beach Cove form one of the most underrated stretches of scenic coastline in the country.

Beyond the rocky promontory of Shag Point, a long sandy beach stretches for at least six kilometres, dotted with scattered volcanic boulders and with the sea sparkling in the sunlight. At the northernmost point stands a lighthouse dating back to 1878, while the southern end was occupied by Māori as far back as the fifteenth century. In the wider region, evidence from some of the earliest Polynesian settlements is thought to date back at least one thousand years. This was because the area was a popular food-gathering site for iwi, thanks to its plentiful marine life. This was where I now found myself, among an abundance of wildlife, so much so that if you are not careful you can quite literally trip over sea lions as you walk the paths that cover the headland. Something that is not quite as fun as it might sound, particularly if you have neglected to bring a spare change of underwear.

Palmerston

Daily Photo – Puketapu and the Sir John McKenzie Memorial

I was heading for Palmerston and the Sir John McKenzie Memorial, which sits on top of a prominent hill overlooking the town, near where he spent many years of his life. Given the fact that the memorial is a cairn on top of a hill that is over 300 metres high, Sir John must have been a person of some importance, which he was.

Hailing from the Ross-shire region of Scotland, he emigrated to Otago in 1860, eventually settling on a farm he named in the Shag Valley, near Palmerston. At the time, much of the land was owned by wealthy landlords who hoarded the best properties. Over time, he grew tired of this and spent years working his way up through local councils, proving that he actually knew his stuff about soil and sheep, before eventually moving to the “big leagues” in Parliament. There, he teamed up with a group called the Liberals and, when they won a massive election in 1890, he became Minister of Lands. He introduced the 999-year lease, allowing settlers with very little capital to get onto the land without having to buy it outright. He also passed the Land for Settlements Act 1894, which gave the government the power to compulsorily acquire large, under-utilised pastoral estates and subdivide them for small-scale family farming, and he established the Department of Agriculture to provide farmers with scientific advice, export grading standards, and pest control. What all this meant was that by the time soldiers returned from World War 1 they were able to purchase small parcels of land around the country and essentially start to rebuild their lives, which in turn gave birth to the Royal New Zealand Returned and Services’ Association (RSA), a fixture in every small-town across the country. Like I say, an important figure in the grand scheme of agricultural New Zealand.

When I set out, my plan had been to swing-by the monument (and tackle the arduous climb to the stop) and take in the great views that expand out in all directions and before leaving adjust my gaze over the horizon, let the wind blow through my hair and embrace the serenity. Alas, it was not to be. By the time I arrived in Palmerston, I had already spent a large portion of the morning walking boardwalks, strolling near streams, and detouring along dirt roads, leaving no time at all for my planned amble up the side of a steep hill. So, instead I settled for a view of the Sir John McKenzie Memorial from street level before returning to my vehicle and rejoining State Highway 1

Waikouaiti 

Daily Photo – Matanaka Farm in Waikouaiti 

A short drive north from Waitati of around 40 kilometres (25 miles) brings you to the community of Waikouaiti. It is a semi-rural township, with pockets of built-up housing that give way to farmland which almost entirely surrounds the town. To the east is a broad, sweeping bay with a long white sandy beach that stretches far to the south, while to the north the coastline becomes more rugged, with sharp cliffs and rolling hills.

Like so many towns around New Zealand, State Highway 1 rolls straight through it, first slowing to 70 km/h, then 50 km/h as you approach the heart of town. There is the usual collection of essentials: a dairy, pub, town hall, school, race course, museum, bakery, school and hardware store. Its origins trace back to early European arrivals, drawn by sealing and whaling before setting down more permanent roots, while the history of the local Ngāi Tahu iwi stretches back centuries before that.

And then, just like that, you are rolling out of town again into open farmland as the speed limit increases, first to 70 km/h and then to 100 km/h, past a scenic lookout and onto a winding ribbon of chip seal that carries you towards the next small town.

Waitati

Daily Photo – The Local Swimming Hole

One of the best things about reconnecting with small towns in New Zealand is the sheer, quintessential Kiwiness of the things you find. Drive through any New Zealand town and you’re liable to find oversized pieces of fruit doubling as both local art and a nod to the agricultural richness of the region, while also providing a mandatory photo-stop for tourists who pretend to be holding it in one hand. You might call in at the local dairy that has a heavily faded Tip Top sign outside, where you can buy a “single scoop” ice cream that’s the size of your head for a mere $2. You can read the community bulletin board, with handwritten notes for “Free firewood, delivery $5,” or “Missing ginger cat, last seen August 1982,” call in at public toilets that double as the town’s architectural masterpiece, or pass by fences made out of boots, bras or bicycles that have long since become national icons.

There is always a bridge with a river running underneath and a sign saying “No bungy jumping allowed,” or walk a well-worn path to the local swimming hole where the river is wider and deeper, with a rope swing precariously dangling from a leaning tree on the riverbank. It’s DIY entertainment. Shoes are optional, wearing anything more than a T-shirt and shorts is overdressed, and if the river is high, you’re more than welcome to join in and have a go, as long as you remember the local, unwritten code of ethics when lining up: no invites and no cuts allowed.