Middlemarch, Strath Taieri, Sutton, Wild Horses

Sutton Railway Station

Leave a comment

Sutton Railway Station

These days, the Sutton railway station is a sleepy relic, a station without a train, with nothing but the wind for company. Once a bustling wee hub, a place where locals from the Strath Taieri area came and went on their way to Dunedin. Step inside (or rather, peer through the old door), and you’ll find names scratched into the timber—some dating back nearly to the turn of the century. Among the scrawls left behind by idle hands are the initials of soldiers who once passed through, including one Arthur Charles Peat.

Arthur was 21 when he left Sutton in late 1914, off to do his bit for ‘The Great War.’ He enlisted with the Otago Infantry Battalion on the 13th of December and was promptly packed onto the HMS Tahiti, bound for Egypt. In early April, somewhere on the Red Sea, he wrote to his brother Jack, because that’s what one did in 1914 when one was about to do something life-altering and potentially catastrophic—one wrote home, preferably before seasickness set in. He described three days at sea before spotting the Suez Canal, the excitement of saluting passing ships, and the thrill of buying fruit from enterprising locals. Then came the train ride through the canal, followed by a jaunt into Cairo, where he had a look at the sights but only glimpsed the pyramids from a distance—an experience not unlike visiting Paris and only seeing the Eiffel Tower reflected in a puddle. He ended the letter in a hurry, promising to write more next time, presumably because the postman was already tapping his foot.

That next letter never came. Arthur and the Otago Infantry Battalion were shipped off to Gallipoli, where things quickly went from ‘unpleasant’ to ‘a complete and utter disaster.’ On the 7th of August, 1915, at Chunuk Bair, Arthur Charles Peat was killed in action. His name, along with the others who never returned, remains etched into the wood at Sutton station—a quiet reminder of lives that passed through, bound for places they would never see again.

Aotearoa, Queenstown, Queenstown-Lakes District, South Island, Travel, Wild Horses

Eichardt’s in Queenstown

Leave a comment

Eichardt’s in Queenstown

It’s Welshman William Gilbert Rees who we can thank (or, depending on your views on tourist hotspots, quietly curse) for Queentown. A sheep farmer who arrived in the South Island of New Zealand via New South Wales in Australia, he came across the present day location of Queenstown while out searching for farm land with fellow explorer Nicholas von Tunzelmann (who seems largely forgotten about). 

Rees then settled on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, established a sheep farm and happily went about life in the picturesque location. Until, gold was discovered in November 1862. One moment, Queenstown was a peaceful, sheep-filled paradise; the next, it was swarming with fortune-seekers who, judging by the speed of their arrival, had developed a sixth sense for gold. From that point onwards, all hell broke loose! The calm, tranquil shores of Queenstown became a rough shantytown that was overrun with miners. Rees, who presumably just wanted a quiet life tending his sheep, found himself in charge of an impromptu boomtown filled with dishevelled miners and questionable hygiene. To keep up with the boom, Rees converted his woolshed into a hotel, calling it the Queen’s Arms. He then went into partnership with Albert Eichardt who eventually changed the hotel’s name to Eichardt’s Queen’s Arms and then later simply Eichardt’s Private Hotel. So, when the owner’s say ‘so much of the local history has taken place in this spot’ they’re not exaggerating. Although, I wonder what Nicholas von Tunzelmann thinks of all this?

Owaka, Purakaunui Falls, Purakaunui River, The Catlins, Wild Horses

Waterfalls, Walks & The Catlins

Leave a comment

The Purakanui Falls

From Nugget Point I drove 37 kilometres southwest to Purakaunui Falls. A trip that took roughly 40 minutes and another 10 minutes of walking along a short, but well maintained bush track that terminated at the iconic falls. Located on the Purakanui River, the falls cascade over three tiers, creating a stunning, wide and spectacular waterfall that stands over 20 metres high. Adding to the charm is the surrounding lush native podocarp forest that holds its own tranquil beauty, creating a popular tourist destination for travelers exploring the wondrous natural beauty of The Catlins.

Nugget Point, The Catlins, Wild Horses

Christopher Columbus & The Round Earth Theory.

Leave a comment

Nugget Point in The Catlins

I turned off the Southern Scenic Route and headed towards Kapa Point and Molyneux Bay, eventually arriving at Nugget Point. I parked the car between two campervans (do I ever hate campervans!) and began the 20 minute walk to Nugget Point and the lighthouse. 

The lighthouse is situated at the end of a track that sits an impressive 76 metres above the sea. A desolate and windswept headland on the Catlins coast. It’s a truly spectacular view, however I don’t think I’ve ever been there when it hasn’t been at least a tad windy. On this occasion, the breeze could best be described as lively and vigorous. As I made my way to the lighthouse and accompanying viewing area, the wind pounded the point in surges. At first, the platform was surprisingly empty, gradually more people arrived and squeezed onto the tiny viewing area. This forced me to take in the scenic beauty while being uncomfortably close to complete strangers. 

On one side of me were a group of Asian tourists who, judging by all the pointing were having what appeared to be a very heated discussion about shoes! On the other was a man who was giving a history lesson to his son. He was explaining that once, everyone believed that earth was flat and when an explorer named Christopher Columbus set sail, everyone feared he would sail off the edge of the world.  I wanted to interject and state this was a factually incorrect piece of history that has been repeatedly rolled out so often over the years that people now just view it as gospel. In fact, it is completely wrong! When Christopher Columbus set sail in 1492, not only did he know the earth was round, people had done so for hundreds of years. In fact, philosophers as far back as Pythagoras and Aristotle had already proven through maths and science that the earth was indeed a sphere. So, when Christopher Columbus set sail from Spain to find an all-water route to Asia, the only thing he was endangered of, was forgetting the bread and milk on the way home!

Alexandra, Central Otago, South Island, Wild Horses

The Manuherikia River

Leave a comment

The Manuherikia River

The Shaky Bridge spans the Manuherikia River. Standing on the bridge, I looked down as the river gently flowed past. It seemed to be in a lazy mood, like it didn’t have much to do and plenty of time to do it. I scrambled down a nearby bank for a closer look. The river was low and slow, lazily winding its way past Alexandra before joining the bigger Clutha River. Looking ahead, the edges of the bank reflected in the still water. Above patches of blue peeked through the breaking clouds above. The river didn’t seem in a rush-and neither was I, though I suspected it had a better excuse.

Alexandra, Aotearoa, Central Otago, South Island, Travel, Wild Horses

The Shaky Bridge in Alexandra

Leave a comment

The Shaky Bridge in Alexandra

In the morning I awoke with a clear head, feeling refreshed and ready for a new day. This was somewhat surprising. Usually, after spending all day at a concert I would greet the new day with a hangover that could floor a rhinoceros! However, the previous day having made the very grown-up decision to remain sober while attending the Gibbston Valley Summer Concert, the morning seemed full of possibilities. What’s more, I was ok to drive! So, after breakfast, I decided to celebrate my new found maturity by visiting the historic Shaky Bridge in Alexandra.

Gibbston Valley, Queenstown, Queenstown-Lakes District, Wild Horses

Gibbston Valley Summer Concert

Leave a comment

Fans wait for Bic Runga at Gibbston Valley.

Ironically, the last Gibbston Valley Summer Concert was my first. I was looking forward to it. It had been circled on the calendar (mainly so I wouldn’t forget) for a number of months. When the tickets were purchased, it occurred to me it might be a good source of material for later writings. I could attend and make all sorts of pointed and insightful observations about New Zealand life and society in the 21st century.

I was wrong. Upon arriving and settling into my surroundings, I quickly realised I didn’t care what anyone else was doing; I found a reasonable view of the stage, I had my chair, a blanket, a miniature picnic, plenty of water, the sun was shining and I was ….. well, relaxed! All thoughts about making observations for later writing evaporated from my mind as I sat, basking in the afternoon sunshine. All around me there were people that were overdressed, underdressed, dressed-up, dressed-down, needing to redress, not knowing their address! But, I simply did care! I had sunshine and music from Everclear, Bic Runga, Icehouse and Cold Chisel for company. So, there I spent the day, nestled in a sprawling sea of sunhats and folding chairs, encircled by dramatic peaks as music weaved through the vibrant chaos around me. And to think, I was sober the entire time!

Central Otago, Ida Valley, Oturehua, Wild Horses

Hayes Engineering In Oturehua

Leave a comment

Hayes Engineering in Oturehua

The Hayes family homestead and engineering works really is an intriguing place and tribute to the term ‘No 8 wire thinking.’ The best thing about it is the fact that it hasn’t been modernised in the way that a lot of tourist attractions are these days. It’s presented in just the way it was used, as a backyard shed. In fact, an argument can be made for Ernest Hayes to be one of the original backyard Kiwi innovators (even though he was actually English!). Set amongst the rural backdrop of Oturehua in Central Otago, Hayes set-up his home and engineering workshop around 1895 where he invented all manner of agricultural tools, rabbit bait cutters, wind turbines and a patented wire strainer for applying tension to wire on farm fences. Which is still in production to this very day.

Aotearoa, Central Otago, Lake Wanaka, Wanaka, Wild Horses

That Wanaka Tree

Leave a comment

New Zealand’s most photographed tree in Lake Wanaka

That Wanaka tree is a determined wee thing. It started life growing from a fence post line that ran into the water around 1939 and has been going strong ever since. While locals remain somewhat confused about its popularity, the tree has been described as “New Zealand’s most famous tree” and “one of the most photographed trees in all New Zealand”. Unsurprisingly, it has become a tourist attraction in its own right.

Glenorchy, Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown, Queenstown-Lakes District, Wild Horses

Lake Wakatipu Towards Glenorchy

Leave a comment

Lake Wakatipu towards Glenorchy

In the past ten minutes since leaving Queenstown the wind had picked up and was now a decent gale! I was heading for the township of Glenorchy further up Lake Wakatipu and that was exactly where the dark, moody weather seemed to be heading for. Beyond Pigeon and Pig Islands which sat further up lake the distance, the peaks of Sugar Loaf, Mount Nox, Mount Chaos and both the Routeburn and Beans Burn Valley’s were disappearing under a heavy squall of wind and rain.

Middlemarch, Strath Taieri, Wild Horses

Haybales In Middlemarch

Leave a comment

Haybales in Middlemarch

As I journeyed across the open, endless plains where the wind seemed to roll with freedom, I found myself surrounded by a landscape that felt both vast and intimate. Bales of hay stood stacked high in an orderly silence, waiting patiently for the coming of winter. The grass, dry from the summer heat, whispered secrets as it rustled in the breeze, and nearby a barbed wire fence hummed softly, as if intune with the rhythm of the land. All the while, overhead a pale blue sky stretched endlessly into the beyond, a playground for the wild seeds that danced in the wind.

Aotearoa, Cromwell, Kawarau River, Queenstown, Queenstown-Lakes District, Wild Horses

Roaring Meg

Leave a comment

Roaring Meg and the Kawarau River

There are many fun and colourful stories from Otago’s gold rush past, and one of them is the name Roaring Meg. These days Roaring Meg is the name of the local Power Station, however it was once the name of the turbulent stream that connects with the Kawarau River. Just how it got its name is debated until this very day, but there are two stories that are often referred to. The first story tells of a red-headed barmaid named Maggie Brennan who kept the peace in grogshop by way of having a short-fuse and an extremely loud voice. Such was the strength of her personality that the local diggers named the stream after her. The second story tells of a high spirited, fun-loving young lady called Meg who lived in the area. After a particular festive time at a dancing saloon, Meg and her friend Annie joined a group of diggers. Upon leaving the saloon they eventually reached a large stream which the young lasses would have to be carried across. The first made such a fuss that they named the stream after her, ‘Roaring Meg’. In comparison the other was so calm and peaceful that the next stream was called ‘Gentle Annie’. I’ll let you decide which version you prefer!

Australia, Travel, Victoria, Wild Horses

Textures of East Gippsland

Leave a comment

Textures of East Gippsland

This is a very fun and creative thing to do if you have interesting subject matter in your photos, but some parts are a little boring. Adding textures is a great way to add a different dimension to a photo while engaging your inner creativity. For these textures, I went for an old torn and damaged paper effect with a little tin rust added into the layers. It reminded me of what you might find in an old box at the back

Alexandra, Aotearoa, Central Otago, Travel, Wild Horses

The Alexandra Town Bridge

Leave a comment

The Alexandra Town Bridge

As I passed through the town of Alexandra, I detoured to look at the former town bridge, a structure that is a true feat of skill and engineering. Built in 1882, the remains sit right next to the newer version that spans the Clutha River. The bridge, like the clock on the hill, is a bit of an icon.  While the newer version of the bridge is the one most people are familiar with, it’s the remains of the previous bridge that is the real monument. When it was built, it was one of the country’s most glorious structures and a true feat of engineering. These days, the surviving piers and towers are a testament to its wonderful construction, having withstood the force of the Clutha river for more than 140 years.

Aotearoa, Owaka, The Catlins, Travel, Wild Horses

Tunnel Hill Near Owaka

Leave a comment

Tunnel Hill railway at McDonald’s Saddle

I had spent the day walking the Catlins River Track near Tawanui in the Owaka Valley and by the time I arrived back at my car, it was mid afternoon. Leaving Tawanui, I arrived in Owaka where I stopped for a bite to eat before continuing on to Tunnel Hill, the location of a disused 250 m long railway tunnel. Built between 1879 and 1915, the Catlins River Branch railway formed part of New Zealand’s national rail network which was constructed to provide access to the local timber industries. The tunnel was finished in 1896.

Aotearoa, Tawanui, The Catlins, The Catlins River, Travel, Wild Horses

The Catlins River Near Tawanui

Leave a comment

The Catlins River near Tawanui

After arriving in Owaka, I continued south on the Southern Scenic Route, State Highway 92. I turned right onto Catlins Valley Road, right onto Morris Saddle Road, then left which eventually brought me to the Tawanui Camping in the Owaka Valley. From there, I found the beginning of a walk along The Catlins River. Like everywhere in The Catlins, it’s an amazing place that’s incredibly peaceful and serene. All spots in The Catlins seem that way, they hold a majestic quality that’s hard to describe. While walking along The Catlins River, I passed through an exotic forest that’s filled with all sorts of amazing ferns and silver beech trees right beside the wonderful river.

australasia, Australia, Melbourne, Travel, Wild Horses

Fun At The NGV In Melbourne

Leave a comment

The NGV in Melbourne

Whoever designed the National Gallery of Victorian (NGV) in Melbourne sure had a lot of fun. It has, what is quite possibly the most outstanding floor I’ve ever seen, a stain-glass ceiling in the Great Hall (which I didn’t get to see due to not being invited to the Christian Dior event that was on, how rude!) and a wall that contains a waterfall at the entrance. How crazy is that! I had such a blast photographing inside the building, it was so cool. The place was so busy that no-one minded that I sat on the floor and photographed people walking past. I still want to return to photograph the stain-glass ceiling, one day I will!

Dublin, Howth, Ireland, Travel, Wild Horses

Howth & The Baily Lighthouse

Leave a comment

Howth Peninsula and the Baily Lighthouse

In Ireland, while making my way around various points, I stopped off at Howth Head. Located northeast of Dublin, Howth sits on a peninsula and has some wonderful coastal walking trails. One of which takes you past The Baily Lighthouse which has had a signal light shining from it in some way shape or form for over three hundred and fifty years. Just think about that for a second – three hundred and fifty years, that’s an awfully long time! In fact, the first light signal was built on the point near Howth in 1667 and was replaced by the Baily Lighthouse 1814. With multiple tracks to choose from, I spent a few hours strolling some of the various coastal paths which certainly have impressive views. I only wish I had more time to explore them. However, as the afternoon ran on and I became short of time, I realised I hadn’t allowed myself enough time to actually make it to the lighthouse, so I returned to Howth in search of a pint of Guinness to imagine what it might look like.

australasia, Australia, Melbourne, Travel, Wild Horses

The Melbourne Skyline

Leave a comment

The Melbourne Skyline

The wonderful thing about Melbourne is how walkable the city is alongside the river. Much like Brisbane which has the Brisbane River running through it with South Bank looking across to the CBD, Melbourne has the Yarra River. If you’re into walking and cityscapes, then you can have a great time walking along the River Esplanade beside the Yarra River getting all sorts of photo opportunities of Melbourne’s skyline. One day I’ll return and photograph it at night, which will present a completely different set of challenges.

Asia, China, Hong Kong, Travel, Wild Horses

Hong Kong’s Jumbo Floating Restaurant Sinks

Leave a comment

Hong Kong’s Jumbo restaurant in Aberdeen harbour

It’s always interesting to read news articles about places you’ve been to. So it was with interest that I recently read about the sinking of Hong Kong’s famous Jumbo restaurant back in 2022. 

Having been an icon and major tourist attraction of Hong Kong’s Aberdeen harbour since it opened in 1976, the famous floating restaurant has entertained Kings, Queens, Presidents and been the location for many major movies. Sitting at nearly 80 metres in length and with a  capacity of more than 2,000 the restaurant was the main feature of the Jumbo Kingdom which also featured the Tai Pak Floating Restaurant and the Sea Place. Styled in the form of an ancient Chinese imperial palace, the Jumbo restaurant sat in Aberdeen harbour for 44 years. However, despite its place in Hong Kong’s culinary history, the floating restaurant had been unprofitable since 2013. Then, when Covid hit the region in early 2020, the restaurant was forced to close and by 2022 it had accumulated losses exceeding HK$100 million. As the future of Jumbo’s looked bleak, several proposals were put forward to save the famous restaurant, all of which came to nothing as potential investors were deterred by the high maintenance cost and a potential government bailout also failed. So, it was announced in May of 2022 that the  restaurant would move away from Hong Kong for repairs and storage in an unspecified destination until a new owner took possession of the vessel. In June of that year, the Jumbo floating restaurant was towed out of Hong Kong where some time after it hit rough weather in the South China Sea, started taking on water, eventually sinking near the Paracel Islands to a depth of over 1,000 metres [3,300 feet]. 

The oddest thing about discovering that the famous Jumbo restaurant had sunk was realising I had photographed it only two months before it closed in March of 2020. What a curious thing it is to know that only two months after taking this photo it was closed to the public and then two years later it would be at the button of the South China Sea. 

Asia, China, Hong Kong, Travel, Wild Horses

Saigon Street, Hong Kong

Leave a comment

Saigon Street in Hong Kong

Hong Kong really is an interesting place, particularly if you’ve never been there before. Just wandering the streets can be an overload for the senses with all the sights and sounds that greet you from being in the world’s fourth most densely populated region in the world with over 7.4 million residents. Once you’ve spent the day ambling the city streets or visited the wonderful contrast between old and new in the Aberdeen Floating Village you can head into the numerous night markets that awaken after dark and become a hive of people. Of course, then there’s also the Symphony of Lights show that luminates Victoria Harbour each evening. But, then again just navigating the airport can be an interesting experience in itself.

Asia, China, Hong Kong, Travel, Wild Horses

The Sampan Boats of Hong Kong

Leave a comment

The Sampan boats of Aberdeen in Hong Kong

While I was in Hong Kong I visited Aberdeen Harbour which is famous to both locals and tourists. The area is incredibly well known for its floating village and seafood restaurants that are located within the harbour. It’s also home to the Tanka people, who used to live on boats in the harbour and are closely linked to the fishing industry. During my time there, we travelled around on a traditional sampan, which is a flat bottomed fishing boat that originated from China. The Tanka people lived on them and while they were used on the rivers and coasts to transport people during the day, they also doubled as shelter at night. Nowadays, most are used to ferrying curious tourists on tours like myself. Although I passed on the seafood restaurants.

Alexandra, Central Otago, Travel, Wild Horses

Alexandra

Leave a comment

Alexandra in winter

I was heading to the Lindis Pass via Tarras. However, as I wanted to capture the early morning light through the pass, I decided to spend the night in Alexandra as this would allow me to get there in the morning light. Rising early, I ventured up to the Alexandra lookout that sits on the hill overlooking the town. It was a typical winter’s morning with the temperature sitting below zero and smoke from early morning fire’s drifting across the valley. In the distance, the first rays of sunlight took hold of the surrounding hillside. I spent a few moments taking in the silence before heading in the direction of Bendigo and later on the Lindis Pass.

Central Otago, Ida Valley, The Art of John Caswell, Wild Horses

Morning On Poolburn Road

Leave a comment

Morning on Poolburn Road

Occasionally I find a subject by simple chance. Driving through the Ida Valley on Poolburn Road one day I found this small, isolated house constructed from stone and schist. Thinking it would make an interesting subject for a photo and assuming it was abandoned, I decided to call past it early the next morning on my way to Poolburn. Such unexpected and serendipitous moments appeal to my curious nature. They also require an openness to be guided by what the subject demands. In this instance I was drawn to the moodiness of the sky and the half light of morning which created questions for the observer to answer. Much like the house itself.

Aotearoa, Picton, Travel, Wellington, Wild Horses

Of Boats & Roads

Leave a comment

The Bluebridge’s Straitsman Ferry.

Back in June while scrolling through the latest news bulletins, I came across a rather perplexing story that captured my attention for several minutes. That’s fairly hard to do these days, but occasionally there are headlines that make you intrigued to find out the backstory. After all, it’s not every day you read the headline ‘Interislander ferry runs aground.’ Succumbing to click bait and curious to discover what caused the ship to park in Titoki Bay in the Marlborough Sounds instead of Wellington wharf, I began following the story. I later went on to read that the ferry Aratere ran aground after a crew member pressed the wrong button and engaged the autopilot, sending the ship off course. Eventually, with the lifespan of news not being more than several days, I forgot about the wrong turn taken by the Aratere and moved on. As did the rest of the country.

So, recently when I awoke to news that a Bluebridge ferry lost power and was adrift in Cook Strait I wasn’t really surprised. On this occasion the lights went out on the Connemara having departed Wellington for Picton at 9.38pm. Making it as far as Ōwhiro Bay on Wellington’s south coast, it then lost power shortly before 10.30pm and only by sheer luck, the wind pushed it in a southwest direction away from land. It was then picked up by tug ships shortly before 1am Friday morning and taken back to port. Now, is it just me or are problems with Cook Strait ferries seeming to become an all too regular feature in the daily news cycle. A quick look back over the breakdowns of the Cook Strait ferries over the past two years makes for shocking reading.

In January 2023, while sailing in large swells and high winds the Interislander Ferry Kaitaki lost power off Wellington’s south coast. The next month the sailing of the Interislander Ferry Kaiarahi was cancelled due to engineering issues as was a crossing of Bluebridge’s Connemara for the same reasons. Then, in March the Interislander Ferry Kaitaki was taken out of service due to engineering faults which was followed in April with the cancellation of several crossings by Bluebridge’s Strait Feronia. A few months later in August, the Interislander Ferry Kaitaki suffered steering issues and anchored in Wellington Harbour overnight while in November both Bluebridge’s Connemara and the Interislander’s Kaiarahi were damaged after hitting Wellington Wharf. Moving to this year and back in March all sailings of the Interislander Ferry Kaiarahi were cancelled for several days due to mechanical faults. In May, Bluebridge’s Strait Feronia lost power coming into Wellington Harbour and in June as previously mentioned, the Interislander Ferry Aratere ran aground in Titoki Bay in the Marlborough Sounds. 

Intrigued by the rather appalling recent record of ferries crossing the Cook Strait, I decided to conduct a little investigation where I found that the maritime history of the Cook Strait is littered with ship and boating accidents. As far back as 1836, a barque called Maria sank near Wellington’s Cape Terawhiti. The ship City of Dunedin was also wrecked near Cape Terawhiti in 1865 while the SS Penguin sank off the southwest coast of Wellington 1909. In 1952 when the TSS Arahura was decommissioned it was used for target practice in the waters of the Cook Strait, as was the HMNZS Wellington in 2005. The MS Mikhail Lermontov collided with rocks near Port Gore in the Marlborough Sounds and sank in 1972. Then of course there’s the famous Wahine disaster of 1968. 

While not wanting to start widespread panic, I would like to start a completely fictitious rumour based on nothing more than complete speculation and my own vivid imagination that the Cook Strait is cursed. After all, if we can have wild conspiracy theories about JFK’s assassination, the moon landing or that Elvis Preseley is alive and well, living in Cherry Springs State Park in Pennsylvania, then why not one about the Cook Strait ferry service. 

Consider the first Interisland ferry operated by New Zealand Railway between Wellington and Picton called the Aramoana. In 1962, while going into berth at Picton it was caught by strong winds, became tangled with a spectator boat and hit the wharf. Hurried repairs were made, just in time for its first commercial sailing on the 13th August 1962.  

Once, some years ago needing to travel from the South Island to the North Island, for something different I decided to drive. Just for a change. It had been a few years since I’d ventured onto a Cook Strait ferry so like an eager child who can’t wait for Christmas I happily booked myself and my vehicle and on a crossing. When the day of my voyage came, the weather appeared fine, a little windy and cloudy, but otherwise pleasant. Once aboard I found a seat near a window towards the rear of the ship and comfortably settled in. It wasn’t long before we were slipping out of Picton for a leisurely 3 hour trip to Wellington. That was as serene as the trip got because from that point on the voyage can best be described as hell! First we were informed that due to the extreme weather conditions ours would be the last crossing of the day. Next they advised anyone who suffers from seasickness to sit at the stern of the ship. Finally, they started dispensing sick bags. Now I don’t know about you, but when you’re on board a ship and they start handing out sick bags and you’ve only just left the port, you know it’s going to be rough. It’s like getting on a plane and being told to put your life jacket on while taking off! Our leisurely 3 hour trip to Wellington turned into over 7 hours of suffering and torment on the mountainous seas of the Cook strait. Upon arrival in Wellington, I was green, nauseous and couldn’t get off the boat fast enough! 

All of this leads me to the very clear and inarguably conclusion that not only is the Cook Strait cursed, but we must find a better way to cross the strait. I have a friend who is in favour of a bridge running between Picton and Wellington that could rise in the middle to let passing ships through. I however am a believer in the idea of having a tunnel to connect Picton to Wellington. It could have conveniently placed petrol stations and outlet stores along the way for weary travellers who need to rest. Also, needing to be in excess of 100km in length, it would have the added benefit of being the longest road tunnel in the world, thus being a major tourist attraction. 

Back in the 1990’s the Interislander ferry service ran an ad campaign with the slogan, ‘what a way to start holiday!’ Maybe they should bring it back, after all it’s a statement no-one can argue with.

Aotearoa, Dunedin, Ōtepoti, South Island, Travel, Wild Horses

George Street In Dunedin

Leave a comment

George Street and Wall Street in Dunedin

I turned onto Dunedin’s main street which has recently been upgraded at a cost of over $100 million with the aim of creating a people-friendly space in the city centre by way of adding new paving, street furniture, lighting, public art and a playground. Realising that I hadn’t actually done the area justice by way of a proper look, on my way home one day I decided to park several blocks away and walk to the main street for a closer inspection.

I walked along this newly developed section of street now which was rather charming and inviting. The redesign had created an atmosphere that encouraged ambling and strolling instead of traffic dodging. I passed familiar shops and buildings  that had received a fresh coat of paint, American style hamburger and pizza joints, restaurants featuring Asian cuisine along with cafes, clothing shops and all other manner of business you’d expect to see on the main street of a small city. As I strolled, I passed a series of malls, more clothing stores and eating establishments to name a few. Places I’d forgotten even existed. It was about this time that I crossed the road and started making my way back from where I came as music came thumping from a speaker, somewhere in the distance. While the foot traffic could best be described as light, I couldn’t help but notice not many people seemed to be carrying purchases. 

I began to wonder how these businesses even survived when I couldn’t help noticing a man sitting not far from me, in the very direction I was heading. He was short in stature with toothbrush style moustache wearing a brown suede leather jacket with the lettering WA studded into the back. Completing the ensemble, and the reason why I spotted him was of the round, black bowler hat that sat snuggly on top of his head. I had to admit, it looked quite stylish and rather fetching. Feeling annoyed that I hadn’t thought to wear my on top hat, I continued past the traditional outlets like Starbucks and McDonald’s, when suddenly a Subaru Legacy sped past in a blur of noise and speed in what  I could only assume it was an attempt at setting a land speed record down the main street of Dunedin. Next, a Toyota Ute came barreling past and judging by the good natured obscenities that were being exchanged between the two vehicles, I deduced the ute must have been the support vehicle in the attempt.

As calm settled to the shopping district once again, I noticed that not only had some vehicles forgotten about the 10 km speed limit but a lot of the University students seemed to have forgotten their clothing and while it was an unseasonably warm Saturday afternoon, there seemed to be an awful lot of midriffs, arms, legs and spray tans on show from both genders. I continued to walk feeling a little overdressed when it occurred to me that the music coming from the far end of the street seemed to be getting louder. I could see that it was being controlled by a man with a large afro and a black leather jacket, who was rolling a cigarette next to a trolley which I assumed was his. As I got closer and the ending notes of Dire Straits ‘Sultans of Swing’ made their way down the street, he started fiddling with an ipad which was connected to one of the largest speakers outside of a concert venue I had ever seen. What was even more impressive was his ability to stack and balance items on top of each other. In no particular order on his trolley was the very large speaker and ipad but also a tarpaulin, blanket, microphone, roll-up foam mattress, sleeping bag and what looked to me to be a blender! As I moved away and started to turn the corner I left him happily puffing away on a cigarette as the opening riff of Britney Spears ‘Baby One More Time’ came blasting out of the speakers. He seemed very happy I thought to myself as I turned the corner.

Aotearoa, East Otago, Waitati, Wild Horses

Morning Vibes In Waitati

Leave a comment

Blueskin Bay in Waitati

Arriving at Blueskin Bay, just outside the little village of Waitati near Dunedin, the morning surrounds offered one of those sunrises that could make even the most hardened cynic stop and stare. Expecting to find a peaceful bay in the throes of morning, perhaps a few seabirds, the odd hitchhiker on the side of the road, but what I encountered was something altogether more spectacular.

As the morning awoke, the sky put on a performance that would have put an artist to shame. It began subtly enough, with the sky changing to a vibrant blue hue across the landscape. But soon, as if on cue, the sky exploded into a riot of colours so vibrant that it was almost surreal. Deep blues and purples mixed with fiery oranges and pinks, streaking across the dawn sky.

In that fleeting moment, Blueskin Bay wasn’t just a picturesque spot near Dunedin; it was a testament to the raw, breathtaking beauty of New Zealand’s southern coast— if only for a wondrous moment.

Australia, Melbourne, Travel, Wild Horses

Southern Cross Station in Melbourne

Leave a comment

Velluto Coffee at Southern Cross Station in Melbourne

Thirsty and hungry, I wearily I trudged through Southern Cross Station in Melbourne, that marvel of modern transportation architecture, presented itself in a manner that was nothing short of exhilarating. I was hot and tired, yet bathed in the golden glow of late afternoon light, the station seemed less like a hub of trains and more like a grand cathedral of travel. There, nestled comfortably under the sprawling, undulating roof—a roof that appeared to have been designed by a collaboration of science-fiction enthusiasts and overly enthusiastic origami experts—was a modest coffee stand by the name of Velluto.

The kiosk, with its clean, curved lines and warmly lit sign, was a beacon for the weary traveller in need of caffeine sustenance. It had a kind of quiet charm, as though it were saying, “Yes, you’re in a rush, but there’s always time for a good coffee.” The wooden panels along its top gave it a slightly rustic appeal, which was wonderfully at odds with the sleek, modern design of the station around it. The glow from the overhead lights cast a soft, inviting sheen on the counter, where an amiable barista attended to a customer who appeared to be contemplating the menu with the seriousness one usually reserves for selecting a life partner.

Behind the counter, the machinery of coffee creation hummed and whirred, promising the robust aroma and the soothing warmth of a perfectly brewed cup in that fleeting moment, Velluto was more than just a coffee stand. It was a small sanctuary in the bustling, architecturally impressive style of Southern Cross Station, offering a brief respite from the relentless march of time and travel.

Aotearoa, Central Otago, Hills Creek, St Bathans, Travel, Wild Horses

Central Otago

Leave a comment

The Hawkdun Range near St Bathans

When it comes to naming places, it pays to be first or to know the right person. Take British surveyor John Turnbull Thompson for example. He spent fifteen years in Singapore and has a long list of walks, views, roads, rivers, regions, parks and even a medical centre named after him due to his work in the region. Then, upon arrival in New Zealand, he set about surveying and exploring large sections of the South Island. As did so, he named many areas after places in Northern England and south-east Scotland where he and his family were from. Take the area formerly known as Dunstan Creek, when John Turnbull Thompson arrived to survey the area, he decided to rename the place. So, he chose the birthplace of his maternal grandfather, Abbey St Bathans in Scotland. Now the area is simply known as St Bathans

Australia, Brisbane, Queensland, Travel, Wild Horses

Eat Street Northshore in Brisbane

Leave a comment

Eat Street Markets in Brisbane

When I was in Brisbane, one of the recommendations I was given was to check out the Eat Street Markets on Brisbane’s Northshore. Having been located on its present site since 2013, the owners took over an old abandoned docking site and transformed it into one of the hottest locations in Brisbane for food and entertainment every weekend. What makes it more intriguing is that the concept is really rather simple, with more than 50 shipping containers having been converted into food stalls. Located 10 minutes from the city, it’s one of Brisbane’s must do attractions to satisfy the taste buds!