David Bethune & Bethunes Gully

Bethunes Gully – Buy 

It’s not always monarchs, lords and ladies and those who come from a high nobility that get places named after them. To prove this point, David Bethune is a good example. David Bethune started as a butcher in Edinburgh during the 1860’s before he emigrated to Otago with his family in 1862. Once living near Dunedin, and in between twice being declared bankrupt, he ran a timber business and slaughter yard in North East Valley. In his later years he developed a drinking problem before dying in 1903 at a boarding house in Dunedin. 

These days, his name lives on as the property where his timber yard once stood has now been turned into a 86 hectare reserve known as Bethunes Gully.

Purakanui Coast

Purakanui Coast Buy 

On a task to survey land in the South Island in the early 1840’s, it was Frederick Tuckett’s intention to travel by foot from Port Cooper (Lyttelton) to Otago Harbour. But, unable to find anyone to carry his bags he was forced to change his plans. Instead, he sailed to Moeraki where Tuckett landed. He walked down the coast to Waikouaiti, from there he set out overland to Otago Harbour, accompanied by three men from a local iwi. 

Upon arrival at Waitati, there was some debate. The men from the local iwi wanted to travel around the coast by way of Purakanui. However, Tuckett was focused on seeing the land behind the hills and so the party set off into the thick bush, hacking and slashing their way as they went. 

To the local Māori this was a foolish way to travel and implored Tuckett to stop and turn back but not to be deterred, Tuckett pushed on and until at last they reached a ridge where they caught sight of Otago Harbour. They camped and the next day pushed their way through the bush before emerging in Deborah Bay.

Ko te Tuhono

Ko te Tuhono, by Ayesha Green – Buy 

Officially, the Octagon in Dunedin was made a public reserve 168 years ago in 1854. The Octagon was part of English surveyor Charles Kettle’s 1846 plan for the new city which would feature a large Octagonal area in the centre of the city with a small octagonal reserve in the middle. 

Once construction of the new city started with dwellings of all kinds being added, the Octagon stood empty for many years before any major structure of any kind was added. The first being a monument to William Cargill who was leader of the Free Church migration to Otago which was erected in 1864. Since then, monuments have been moved, added and replaced. Star Fountains have been added and dismantled and all kinds of upgrades have taken place. 
One of the latest additions is this sculpture called Ko te Tuhono, by Ayesha Green.

Postscript: 100 in 20

Nautical Colours

Boating in Broad Bay – Buy 

When the New Zealand Company’s chief Surveyor, Captain William Mein Smith left Otago Harbour sometime in the early 1940’s, he wasn’t too impressed. 

Having been sent down from Wellington to report on the suitability of the harbour as a place for a settlement, Captain Smith spent five days taking a boat around the harbour before departing with the view that there was ‘little arable land in sight’ and not many ‘desirable places’ to build a town. 

In the years preceding Captain Smith’s visit, the Otago Harbour had become a busy place. There had been local Māori iwi living in tribes along the coast for some time but the arrival of Europeans, brought to the area to hunt Seals and Whales, meant a steady stream of boats started to grace Otago Harbour. The whaling station which was operated by the Weller Brothers from Sydney had based their operations near the harbour entrance at a place called Otakou and it had grown to be one of the biggest in the country. At its peak producing 310 tons of oil in 1834. However, by the early 1840’s the whale population had been hunted so extensively that there remained little money to be made and population numbers in the Otago Harbour significantly dwindled. 

When Captain Smith arrived a few years after the whaling industry ceased, he came to survey the region as a place for potential further colonisation. He found small pockets of both Europeans and Māori living in the area but he concluded that there were very limited suitable places to build a town. Before departing the Otago region, he did make one recommendation however, he concluded that if any region would be favourable for a town it would be the areas now known as Portobello or Broad Bay.  

Postscript: A little bit of Ōtepoti ….

Beloved

A waterfall in the Otira Gorge by Petrus van der Velden – Buy 

What a joy Art Galleries are. That is, if you like wandering in silence looking at pictures. If you don’t, then I’d imagine they would be rather dull places. I guess it would be similar to expecting everyone to enjoy going to see the All Blacks at Eden Park or Manchester United at Old Trafford. Personally, I love art galleries so one afternoon having found myself caught in a rainstorm, I ducked into the Dunedin Public Art Gallery to pass the time until the rain passed. They also let me set up my camera for a bit as it was reasonably quiet.

Postscript: A little bit of Ōtepoti ….

The Dunedin Coastline

The Dunedin Coastline Buy 

In bright sunshine on a clear afternoon I found a track that led its way along a section of the Dunedin coastline. The grass was long and overgrown yet the track was well worn and showed signs of many travellers who had passed this way. I found a spot that looked out beyond the cliffs where I might view the changing tide and shifts in wind.

Port Chalmers

Port Chalmers – Buy 

Located 15 kilometres northeast of Dunedin city, Port Chalmers holds the unique place in history as the landing spot of the Scottish Free Church settlers in 1848, New Zealand’s first successful shipment of frozen meat departed for Britain in 1882 and the ill-fated Robert Falcon Scott expedition to the South Pole left Port Chalmers for Antarctica on 19th November 1910.

If you’re interested in a walk, you can start at one end of the main street stroll in one giant loop. There’s a charming mix of both Victorian and Art Deco buildings that make up the main street. The shops are the endearing type that sell pottery, hats, jewellery and fine art. There’s art galleries, community spaces, monuments and the traditional convenience outlets of takeaways, a dairy and chemist. The cafes and tearooms are the charming sort where you can happily spend an afternoon sharing coffee with friends. Leaving the main street, you can explore the Iona Church, the Lady Thorn Rhododendron Dell, The Port Chalmers Town Belt and The Robert Falcon Scott monument and Lookout. 

Finish by detouring up to the lookout to see the Hotere Garden Oputae. Situated on top of the Port Chalmers Flagstaff lookout, the garden was built in 2005 to mark the return of four sculptures to their home at Observation Point where they had previously displayed at the studio of Ralph Hotere. Somehow the Hotere Garden Oputae and seems to sum Port Chalmers up, a delightfully tranquil and charming place with some beautiful touches.

Outram Glen

Outram Glen – Buy 

What a delightful place Outram Glen is. It’s such a popular swimming spot as families enjoy the river which is lined with grass, shrubs and gravel beaches. The town of Outram is close by and it’s also the start of a number walking tracks. Also, as a wee side note, Outram was the first town in New Zealand to have electric street lights.

Night Moves

The Baker’s Dozen – Buy 

Earlier this year I developed a series of images called Night Moves. All the photos were taken after night fall and before sunrise. I based them all around a street here in Dunedin called Musselburgh Rise. This one was taken early in the morning after the Bakery had started for the day around 6am.

City Heritage Walks

Public Trust Offices In Moray Place – Buy 

If you like heritage and architecture, then there are a couple of good city heritage walks that you can do. Even if you don’t like buildings it is still a great way to navigate around the city. One walk takes you on a tour of the heritage buildings in Central Dunedin, another heads around North Dunedin and the University Campus while a third option is to tackle the now famous Street Art walk. This building, the former Public Trust Office building in Moray Place, while not on the list makes an interesting photo.

Evening Walk At The Beach

The Beach Locals – Buy 

I took an evening stroll at the beach as the light was fading from sight. The day had been warm and long and the thought of spending a few minutes walking with the sand between my toes seemed very delightful. Given it was midweek and the surf was better than average, I expected there to be more people hanging around than there were. Apart from the occasional couple casualing strolling to one of the nearby restaurants, there was hardly a soul around.

The Indigo Room & Pequeno

The Indigo Room and Pequeno Buy 

By day it is a mostly empty alleyway with a few cars, odd dimensions and some interesting pieces of street art that attract city walkers. In the early evening and into the night it’s a popular spot with unique bars like the Indigo Room and Pequeno Wine & Cocktail Bar which offer a nice relaxed ambience, a great range of cocktails and a wonderful vibe. If you’re looking for a spot to grab a few drinks after dinner or before heading out, these are some great options.

Lady Thorn Rhododendron Dell

The Lady Thorn DellBuy 

Sir John Thorn was born in Dunedin in 1911 and by the time he reached his late teens he had moved to the suburb of Port Chalmers to begin a plumbing apprenticeship. Living in the area, he went on to own a number of businesses that included a plumbing firm, a betting agency (TAB) and a bookshop. He married his wife Constance in 1936 and became Mayor of Port Chalmers in 1956. This was a position he went on to hold for 33 years until the borough of Port Chalmers and the surrounding district was amalgamated into the enlarged City of Dunedin in 1989. In total, he and his wife served the Port Chalmers community for nearly half a century, something he was knighted for in 1984. While his wife Lady Constance Thorn passed away in 1997, Sir John Thorn lived to the age of 97 until his death in 2008. 

When Lady Thorn passed away, the community wanted to do something to recognise her commitment and service to the Port Chalmers District. Nearby at the Port, there stood a disused quarry site that was used to supply bluish-grey stone to public works projects in the Port and around Dunedin city. It was this site that was chosen to develop into a Rhododendron Dell in honour of the Late Lady Thorn. 

Nowadays, the Dell features a numerous array of plants, bushes and flowers that have transformed the former quarry into something rather beautiful. It also features an elevated lookout that provides panoramic views of the harbour and Port Chalmers area. 

Having never been to the Lady Thorn Dell, upon my return from a trip out to Aramoana, I stopped and spent a lovely half an hour taking in every inch of the garden which really is a hidden gem.

Mellor Laboratories

Mellor LaboratoriesBuy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

With a mind to having a stroll through North Dunedin, I set off on a warmish kind of day that looked like it might break into both glorious sunshine and also rain, both at the same time! After a while, on my return journey I detoured through the University of Otago where among other things the entrance to Mellor Laboratories caught my eye. I admired the entrance structure which is a cross between mathematics, science and sculpture. While I was doing this, I recalled reading somewhere that the building was renamed after Joseph Mellor. Now, I’m not sure who Joseph Mellor is, but assuming he is no longer with us, I’m sure he’d be mighty impressed to have a building named after him.

Picton to Dunedin

South Island Sunset Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

The ferry docked in Picton on a stunning day. All the little bays and inlets that made up the Marlborough Sounds near Picton looked ideal for swimming and soaking up the sun. Driving off the ferry, it was the type of day that made me realise why so many people decide to spend an extra day or two in the area. 

Once off the ferry I stopped to refuel both the car and myself before starting the 692km journey home. Leaving Picton, I passed by Mount Pleasant, Koromiko and Spring Creek before taking the wrong exit at a roundabout in Blenheim, eventually finding the correct road that took me through the Weld Pass and on to Kaikoura.

It was somewhere along the Kaikoura coast, near the famous food truck Nin’s Bin that I started randomly pondering about the sights that I was passing. This led me to the conclusion that it’s amazing what you remember that you forget when you’re looking out a window. It also led me to several observations about driving in New Zealand:

Keeping left unless overtaking in a passing lane is apparently quite hard. 

Fields of Rapeseed are very pretty but have such an unfortunate name. 

The three waters bill doesn’t appear to be very popular.

You can always tell buildings that were once a petrol station. 

Fonterra trucks turn often.

There are plenty of places to buy bales of hay and horse poo.

If we are living in the digital age, how come there are parts of State Highway 1 where I can’t get coverage? 

State Highway 1 is no place for a restored steam tractor to be towing a caravan and a car, no matter how lovely and old it is. 

Snow capped peaks and high mountain ranges that sit on the edge of the horizon alway look lonely yet strangely enticing. 

I love the sight of Dunedin from the Northern Motorway when you’re travelling south.

A Walk On Smails Beach

Rock with seaweed Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

There are so many elements to explore right along at Smails Beach, even the rocks seem interesting and let’s not forget it has a cave to top it off. This was taken towards the Tomahawk end of the beach and is a very long exposure. I can’t remember the exact timing however I exposed it long enough to blow out all the elements in the surrounding sand.

Paekākāriki Hill Lookout

Paekākāriki Hill Lookout Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

A quick internet search revealed that the No 1 thing to do in Paekākāriki is to visit the Paekākāriki Hill Lookout, so that’s just the spot I arrived at now. Although upon arrival in the fading light I discovered while the view was quite something, a howling gale was making it extremely difficult to stand. After a quick survey of the gathered cars I also discovered that everyone else had opted to stay in their vehicles and my attempts to stay standing were causing great amusement to all concerned.

Late Autumn At Lake Hayes

Late Autumn At Lake Hayes Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

If you find yourself travelling on State Highway 6 through the Kawarau Gorge and on past the Gibbston Valley, passing by the insanely wonderful Bungy Jumping site at the Kawarau suspension bridge and avoid the lure of heading over the Crown Range, you’ll come across Lake Hayes. 
A popular spot for swimming and kayaking, the lake is one of New Zealand’s most photographed lakes with the surrounding mountains reflecting on the water’s surface all year round. For those that like data, the lake has a depth of 33 metres and a surface area of 2.76 kilometres meaning as far as lakes go, it is relatively small yet extremely splendid and altogether charming.

Ferns At The Treaty Grounds

Ferns at the Treaty GroundBuy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

Usually I’m pretty good at remembering the locations of the photos I’ve taken however this one had me stumped. I’ve got a vague memory of taking it, a stronger memory of editing it but I couldn’t for the life of me remember where I took it. To solve this, I went into the metadata details and discovered that I took it on Saturday, 9th January. Upon further investigation, I found out that was the day I travelled from Russell to Paihia on the Bay of Islands ferry before walking to the Treaty Grounds at Waitangi. This meant it was taken somewhere in the Treaty Grounds, most likely on the bush walk that greets visitors at the entrance which leads on to the Treaty House, Flagstaff and the Te Whare Rūnanga. Which is a ‘must do’ by the way.

Shops On George Street

Shops On George Street Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

Leaving my car expertly parked, the first thing I noticed was the newly installed pathing stones.
“they do look rather nice” I thought to myself as I joined the various Sunday shoppers that filled the streets. 

I did all the things you do when you’re casually strolling inner city streets looking at nothing in particular. I read signs, looked in windows, guessed the price of items I didn’t need or want and admired new stores that had probably been around for ages. I was amazed at how many I hadn’t been into and how many I had no desire to visit at all. I looked in one shop and try as I might, I simply could think of a single reason to enter. It was about this time that I happened to pass a series of cafes and eateries that were reasonably busy, one of which was called Kiki Beware. It was doing a brisker trade than most and a line was forming out the door. It was filled with young female students who were all squealing and hugging each other until the excitement eventually dissipated. Then a new arrival would join the group and the squealing and hugging would start all over again. This carried on for some time as long after I had passed, their shrieking could be heard echoing down the street.

Dunedin’s Parking Conundrum

George Street Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

Leaving the pier feeling a little damp, I pointed my car in the direction of town and proceeded to join light traffic that was heading in the same direction. On my way I noticed that overnight some creative individual had put googly eyes on all the faces of the local body election advertising billboards. An idea that I must admit was very amusing. It’s very hard to take a mayoral candidate seriously when they’re wearing a set of googly eyes! 

The drive into town was slow and tedious. The streets were filled with an usual amount of student drivers, all of whom clutched at the steering wheel looking terrified and not too stable. Oddly enough, in every vehicle (and there were at least five of them), in the passenger seat sat an adult looking equally terrified, and in one case so petrified that I swear he was about to eject himself from the vehicle at any moment. 

When at last I arrived in town,I am sorry that things didn’t go as smoothly. Or, to put it another way, I remembered why I’d stopped visiting the city centre. You see, it comes down to parking! Where in god’s name do people park in the city centre, there simply isn’t anywhere to park! In Dunedin’s attempt to spruce up the main street while at the same time replacing old water, wastewater and stormwater pipes in the central city — some dating back to the late 1800s, some upgrades are happening. This means that multiple blocks have been closed while the construction takes place. The unfortunate thing is that Dunedin’s city centre just isn’t big enough for it to go unnoticed or to not affect the vast majority of visitors. This situation isn’t helped by Dunedin currently suffering from a lack of bus drivers meaning that the darn things don’t turn up from time to time. Not something that is very helpful when the city centre is suffering from a lack of visitors or parking spaces. 

So it was that I joined a long line of cars circling a section of the city, ready to pounce the moment a space became free. Doing this, I managed to listen to half a Green Day album before I spotted a vehicle about to leave. Leaping into action I did what I hate other drivers doing, I waited! A car behind me showed his annoyance by tooting however on this occasion I simply didn’t care! My knuckles were white, my jaw was jaw clenched and my resolve was firm. I didn’t care how much traffic I held up, I was getting the parking spot. Something I celebrated with a friendly wave to the passing queue that said, so long suckers! 

Otago Harbour Pier

Otago Harbour Pier Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery

It was ten minutes to 10:00 in the morning and it was misty and cold. The previous night I had continued my research into the effects on my health and well being by watching rugby and drinking beer. Then, sometime before bed, since daylight savings time was due to begin at 2:00am, I had decided to put the clocks forward so that when I awoke, I would at least be on the right time. Now in the clear, sobering light of morning it appeared that I had only half finished the job and was left with the confusing calculation of not only finding out what the right time was, but having to ensure all the clocks were correct. A task that took longer than it really should have. Sometime later after awakening the senses with coffee, bacon, eggs and a few sausages, and waiting a suitable length of time before it would be safe to drive, I set off into the day. 

Reversing my car out into the street, I decided that a visit into town would be the order of the day. It had been some time since I’d passed the time, casually strolling the inner city streets looking at nothing in particular. I manoeuvred my car into the world and disappeared into a murky, haze of cloud and fog. A drizzly rain hung in the air and it seemed to have settled in. Navigating my way through familiar streets that faded into a vast void of nothingness, occasionally a walker, jogger or cyclist would appear before mysteriously vanishing behind me. It was almost as if the Bermuda Triangle had come and settled over this very specific part of the city. I made my way down to the harbour shore line where thankfully the misty haze was just as thick. Before venturing into the city I had an idea for a photograph that I had been wanting to try and the conditions seemed ideal. 

The visibility on the harbour was just as bleak as it had been in the hills. I placed myself in front of what used to be an old boat pier. Sometime back it had been deemed unsafe and dismantled and to really emphasise the point, a large sign had been put on it that read “Danger, do not use!” Not that there was much of it left to use, but that was clearly beside the point. As I began to set-up my camera, suddenly out of the mist and drizzle a windsurfer appeared before vanishing into the white veil. When I had set off that morning, photographing the old pier had seemed like a good plan, but now standing in the rain with the waves getting higher it seemed like a serious mistake.