When I started walking down the beach, I hadn’t realised just how windy it was. The beach was long, scattered with sand dunes that had taken a beating over the years as the southerly swells hit them. However I saw very little of them. I had left the car, full of optimism and excitement with a long walk along the beach but now that the wind had picked up, my face was full of sand, there was spray coming off the sea and staying upright was a battle in itself. As I looked along the coast, there was something more absorbing than before. It struck me that sometimes when the beach is at i’s most interesting, noone one is there.
I walked through the University looking for autumn in the city. I wanted to see warm yellows, mixed with oranges, reds, ochre and olive colours. I wanted textures offset with iconic images that could only be distinctively Dunedin. My wants were few as I walked past the many buildings of various ages that make up Otago University. I went over a bridge and through a gate. My eye was caught by the particularly handsome gothic style clocktower, constructed from bluestone with Oamaru stone facings and slate roofs. I crossed the square, turned and found the view I was looking for.
It was the most annoying part of my day, having to wait for a break in the traffic to get the right view I wanted. I’d been taking in the joy and wonder of walking through a city filled with autumn colour when my eye was caught by a line of green and yellow hues that ran parallel to the road. Unfortunately, at the same time a heavy and never ending line of traffic passed through at precisely that moment. Included in which was some type of a cattle truck that could be smelt before it arrived and long after it vanished from sight it left the smell of silage lingering in the air. Isn’t it a good thing photos don’t come with smells I pondered as the lights up ahead turned red.
Not long before arriving I had been at the Dunedin Gypsy Fair and having left disappointed, I needed to enliven myself with some autumn leaves. Fortunately the leaves on the trees at Dunedin’s Queens Garden had yet to completely disappear and under the watchful gaze of presbyterian minister Donald Stuart, I kicked a few leaves around in between taking photos. It is autumn after all.
I walked along the beach, unsure if the day was going to get better or suddenly turn without warning. Not being fully prepared to get soaked (although I never am), yet intrigued by the beach I decided the only course of action was to get closer to the water. This move had proven fatal many times and I wasn’t at all confident that this time would be any different.
I found my way back to the harbour where a container ship was at anchor. The day was bright and clear, the water was still and a nearby sign reflected off the water while the shadows of the dock lay in contrast. I looked at nothing much for a while before deciding to take my leave.
I emerged at the University to find long shadows stretching across the courtyards, filling most of the spaces with a cool air that comes just before the onset of winter. The sun was still warm, yet the temperature in the shadows dropped sharply. I found a set of stone steps leading up to one of the lecture theatres, watched the autumn colours on a nearby tree and enjoyed the olden day charm that comes from being around buildings that were constructed in the 1880’s and have been lovingly maintained.
The next day I found myself wondering through a very different set of architectural features. I had ventured down the peninsula past the villages of Macandrew Bay, Broad Bay and Portobello through Ōtākou and on to Taiaroa Heads. Having carefully parked my car at Harrington Point, ensuring it was almost nearly out of the way of any traffic that might pass by, I spent a captivating afternoon wandering, tripping and scrambling through an abandoned military complex. It seems the complex which was constructed on Harrington Point in the 1890s was built amid panic and fear that the Russian Empire might invade, which of course, never happened.
The next morning I headed around the harbour. Following the main road that snakes its way along the shoreline from Dunedin to Port Chalmers. Then, heading over the hill that looks down to the harbour mouth I soon found myself enjoying the vista that looks out down to Purakaunui Bay. It really is the most tranquil and peaceful place to waste away the day in the sun. The hillside surrounding the inlet is filled with homes of all shapes and sizes. Some are old, some new but all are loved for the splendid surroundings they sit in.
I’d been walking for some time. Having dodged scooters, bikes, skateboarders and runners in the afternoon sunshine, the wind was now picking up. It was the type of northwest wind that typically rockets down that Harbour and hits Portsmouth Drive at the end of the harbour with a great rate of knots. Before turning back to the car, I took in the view of the city from across the water.
This photo is a revisit back to the last day of summer, it seems a while ago now. Here in New Zealand and in particular the South Island, the Autumn temperatures are certainly taking hold. While the days have been fine, overnight temperatures are dropping to single figures with Dunedin Airport reaching -0.9° a few nights ago. Better make the most of the fine days while they last.
I spent a good portion of the day exploring walking tracks near the Taieri plains and on the way back I called in at Wingatui Railway Station or Wingatui Junction as it is otherwise known. These days it is pretty much unused as most railway stations are in New Zealand, however, it’s not hard to see how it would have been a busy place in its day. The original station was opened in Wingatui on 1 September 1875 with the present building constructed in 1914 and while it is still standing, the station closed on 13 August 1983.
Wingatui was once an important part of the Otago rail network as it was the starting point for the Otago Central Railway and for many years it was the station that provided service for nearby Wingatui racecourse.
It had been ages since I had been to a fair and while they often come to town on long weekends, I always seem to miss them. I remember them as places of fun and surprise, where you didn’t expect much beyond wasting a few dollars on games where you win cheap prizes, eat food that isn’t good for you while enjoying the surprise of finding something that you never knew existed, yet having seen it, couldn’t live without.
So, when I saw the Dunedin Gypsy Fair advertised for the long Easter weekend, I found myself strangely curious to see what it was like and driving there, even a tad excited. I had even ensured I had cash to spend, a real novelty for me. I think what I was really looking forward to was wasting my money on a game that is impossible to win. After all, there’s nothing like a good swindle to remind you of the value of money!
The Dunedin Gypsy Fair was to run over three days over Easter and it seemed sensible to me to attend on the first day. So, at around midday, in glorious sunshine and without a breath of wind, I parked my car and happily strolled off towards the group of mobile homes that were parked in a circular formation in the distance.
Well, I was there for all of five minutes, three of which I wished I wasn’t and one looking for an exit. Within 1 minute my expectations had been dashed. I was too old for the bouncy castle, I wasn’t interested in a temporary tattoo or having my face painted and I could tell right away that I could live without everything on offer in the surrounding stalls. Alas, I resigned myself to the fact that I simply am not the target market for fairs anymore. So, I departed by way of manoeuvring between two campers and headed for a pile of leaves somewhere, or maybe even a stream with a nice little waterfall.
I’ve recently been curating a few collections which has taken me across images from multiple years of work. Some of the images have recently been published, others have not. As I came across images I’d forgotten about, I decided they deserved a repost and some extra air time.
Here’s a photo I took a few weeks ago while I was out and about on Otago Peninsula. One of the many carved posts that sit at the entrance to Ōtākou Marae.
I’ve recently been curating a few collections which has taken me across images from multiple years of work. Some of the images have recently been published, others have not. As I came across images I’d forgotten about, I decided they deserved a repost and some extra air time.
What sums up driving in New Zealand more than the good old yellow and black winding road sign. It’s such the kiwi way, to link one narrow and winding road to another narrow and winding road with a steep, narrow and winding road.
I’ve recently been curating a few collections which has taken me across images from multiple years of work. Some of the images have recently been published, others have not. As I came across images I’d forgotten about, I decided they deserved a repost and some extra air time.
The wonderful view from Mount Cargill across to the Otago Peninsula.
Here’s a photo I took while walking the Karetai track on the Otago Peninsula. The clouds had just started rolling up the coast covering Blackhead and St Clair. Within an hour, half the city was below low cloud. It’s one of the joys of living on the coast, you get to see the changes in weather patterns.
Also, yesterday you might have noticed some changes happening with the layout here at … from a Small City, that’s because I was making preparations for a few changes in the coming weeks. Stay tuned!
I’ve recently been curating a few collections which has taken me across images from multiple years of work. Some of the images have recently been published, others have not. As I came across images I’d forgotten about, I decided they deserved a repost and some extra air time.
The Dunedinsummer isn’t a fictitious phenomenon and here’s the evidence to prove it. Although like Hobbits, it can be fairly elusive.
With a bit of time to spare I ventured off the path to get a different view. The day was crsip, clear and warm so pushing my way through the long grass was actually kinda fun. After a short time I stop to look around and found I was surrounded by what I later discovered was Purple Toadflax.
I’ve recently been curating a few collections which has taken me across images from multiple years of work. Some of the images have recently been published, others have not. As I came across images I’d forgotten about, I decided they deserved a repost and some extra air time.
Here’s a photo from St Kilda beach that I really love. It’s got all the colours of a traditional summer palette. There’s blues and greens that are close to nature and contrasted with soft pinks and yellows. It’s cool and elegant in an understated way. So much much to love.
I’ve recently been curating a few collections which has taken me across images from multiple years of work. Some of the images have recently been published, others have not. As I came across images I’d forgotten about, I decided they deserved a repost and some extra air time.
Earlier in the week I mentioned colour palettes and how the traditional summer colours are cool. In summer, orange is a very hot, warm colour and it can also be very striking and distinctive. Here, the evening sky lights up bright orange as dusk approaches in dunners.
I’ve recently been curating a few collections which has taken me across images from multiple years of work. Some of the images have recently been published, others have not. As I came across images I’d forgotten about, I decided they deserved a repost and some extra air time.
Here are those cool summer colours once again. I went exploring around the Otago Peninsula for signs of summer. The one theme I kept comin back to was boats. What says summer more than fine weather, the beach and a boat.
I’ve recently been curating a few collections which has taken me across images from multiple years of work. Some of the images have recently been published, others have not. As I came across images I’d forgotten about, I decided they deserved a repost and some extra air time.
This was a quick city study one winter’s night here in Dunedin focusing on capturing the street lights and car lights on a chilly evening.
I’ve recently been curating a few collections which has taken me across images from multiple years of work. Some of the images have recently been published, others have not. As I came across images I’d forgotten about, I decided they deserved a repost and some extra air time.
On a still, clear evening with lights from the bars and restaurants taking over and a touch of colour in the sky, it’s hard not to like The Esplanade.
I’ve recently been curating a few collections which has taken me across images from multiple years of work. Some of the images have recently been published, others have not. As I came across images I’d forgotten about, I decided they deserved a repost and some extra air time.
Larnach’s Castle
New Zealand’s only castle continues to remain one of Dunedin’s highest ranked tourist attractions. The extensive and expansive property holds a commanding position on the peninsula and as impressive as it is during the day, it is equally as spooky at night. Here are some facts to get you thinking:
Land was purchased in 1870 and construction started in 1871.
Originally the Castle was completed in 1874 with additions continuing until 1887.
It took more than 200 workmen over three years to build the outer shell of Larnach’s Castle.
It took master craftsmen from Europe 12 years to complete the interior of the castle.
Building materials for the Castle were shipped to Broad Bay and then transported up to the Castle. The Castle became known as ‘The Camp’ and the track heading up the hill from Broad Bay was known as ‘The Camp Track.’
Materials used to build the castle include marble from Italy, slate from Wales, glass from Venice and native wood from around New Zealand including kauri, rimu and honeysuckle.
When finished the Castle had 43 rooms and required a staff of 46 servants.
The Ballroom built in 1885 is 3,000 square foot.
It was used as a hospital for mental patients (an overflow of patients from Seacliff Lunatic Asylum) and shell-shocked soldiers when purchased in 1906.
The Baker family (current owners) have owned the Castle since 1962.
There have been numerous reports of ghosts over the years including an incident that took place in 1994 when Castle of Lies, a play on the Larnach family, premiered in the grand ballroom.
The original cost of construction was estimated as being between £100,000 – £150,000 which converted into today’s money is somewhere between $600 -$900 million. #lovindunners#fromasmallcity
I’ve recently been curating a few collections which has taken me across images from multiple years of work. Some of the images have recently been published, others have not. As I came across images I’d forgotten about, I decided they deserved a repost and some extra air time.
Nothing is more comfortable than sleeping in your own bed. After being away for a few nights, I awoke feeling refreshed. I’d survived my Walk In The Snow, my Walk In The Badlands and A Walk In The Bush. Now, I had the day free to myself. With no plans and not having to be relatively useful to anyone, I decided a walk in town would be just the ticket. Besides, there was a Colin McCahon Exhibition showing at the Art Gallery which I very much wanted to see. With the day still young, I headed for Dunedin’s Lower Stuart Street.
I was lucky to get there at all! At the very moment I was going to execute a textbook left turn into a street car park, some moron driving a Kia Sportage decided that this nanosecond would be a good time to have a brain explosion and forget how to drive! I showed my admiration at his lack of driving skills with a loud blast of the horn. This, he clearly appreciated as he cheerfully thanked me with a wave of one finger. Abandoning my car, I quickly tracked down the nearest coffee establishment.
I had heard the Cafe Morning Magpie had ridiculously good coffee and that they were a must for those that love a good cup of joe. This was clearly going to be the place I needed to start my day.
I instantly adored the place. It’s hard to not love a cafe that has upside down lampshades and ladders hanging from the ceiling, a deer’s head on the wall and kitchen staff that happily sing Daft Punk. I finished my coffee while taking in the art work of Josh Tyler Stent and Josh Kennedy on the walls before continuing up Lower Stuart Street.
With 20 minutes to kill before the Art Gallery opened, I decided to wander past the Street Art of Bath Street and Moray Place before taking in Historic First Church. I’ve visited Dunedin’s First Church many times. I think it’s the links to Dunedin’s founding Scottish settlers I enjoy the most. I explored and admired the Gothic architecture, the stained glass windows and the tapestry for a while. It was then that I discovered that the Heritage Centre was closed. Slightly disappointed, I wandered around the grounds, suddenly noticing that the Art Gallery would be open.
Taking one last look from the corner of the grounds, it’s hard to believe that the hill was lowered by nearly 12 metres with a pick and shovel to create a raised platform with cliff faces on three sides for the church to sit on. Whoever convinced the newly settled citizens of Dùn Èideann (Dunedin) that such manual labour was a necessity must have been a hell of a motivator. With that thought, I left as it was time for Colin McCahon. #lovindunners#fromasmallcity
I can’t really explain why I went to Sandfly Bay, I think mainly because I hadn’t been there in a while and I felt like looking at Sea Lions. The thing is, we Dunedinites really don’t know how lucky we are with our wildlife. Seeing Seals and Sea Lions on Dunedin beaches is becoming as common as a political party leadership change, only with less surprise.
I spent a few more hours exploring the city looking for autumn colour. I walked through alleyways and side streets, looking for places I hadn’t visited recently. Every so often I would come across unexpected shadows created by light from strange angles. I then found myself overlooking what used to be part of Bell Hill before it was excavated with picks and shovels, sometime around the 1860’s. It was here that I found an autumn view of the Cenotaph in Queens Garden. The surrounding trees were a mixture of yellow and green in front of a blue sky. Another autumn surprise from a small city.
Wandering through a city in autumn is like constantly putting your hand into a lucky dip box. There are all sorts of surprises that pop up as the autumn leaves change. I wandered along George Street in the afternoon as the clouds changed overhead. Every so often I came across evidence of a recent student party or preparations for a new gathering about to begin. It was then that I came across pockets of colour that I couldn’t help but enjoy.
After leaving Baldwin Street and a family recreating their own Jaffa Race, I headed to a place called Chingford Park. I was a tad wary of this due to the strange encounter I had last time I was there. A man had been walking his dog when he informed me (in a voice that was sharpish and bossy) that the plastic frisbees used for the frisbee golf course are destroying the trees . Also, the city council has secret hidden cameras all over the place!
This was the first time I had returned to the park since that enlightening encounter and fortunately all was quiet. I then proceed to spend my time wandering amongst the trees, enjoying the shifts of light in between the shadows with a nearby stream adding musical backdrop.
Upon leaving I thought to myself, ‘I wonder how long it would take to cut down a tree with a plastic frisbee?’ I then gave a friendly wave to no one and nothing in particular. After all, you never know who’s watching!
… from a Small City. My daily musings from Ōtepoti to get you inspired. Read the blog, view the photos, embrace the creativity.
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