Treeline In Snow Near Kokonga

Daily Photo – Treeline in snow near Kokonga

Continuing past Kokonga, the landscape softened into a quieter, almost forgotten stillness. Just past a bridge, along the edge of a snow-covered paddock, a line of bare trees stood beside a river, a fenceline and a simple farm gate, the human touches cutting through the white blanket. Looking past the gate, a track led further into the field and through the trees, entirely untouched, smoothed over by a fresh layer of snow, ice and frost that has a way of turning the ordinary into something remarkably serene.

There is an understated charm to these quiet corners of the Maniototo, where a wooden fence and a cluster of wintering trees can hold as much presence as the grandest mountain range. The mist hung low over the distant fields, blurring the boundary between earth and sky, while the farm gate stood slightly agape, as if quietly inviting you to stop and take in the slow, unhurried rhythm of backcountry winter.

Chasing Snow On State Highway 87

Daily Photo – State Highway 87 in Kokonga

On occasions, there are moments that give you a real understanding of just what elevation can mean, and my arrival in Kokonga, in the Maniototo Basin, was one of them. I’d been travelling for some time through the Strath Taieri and, thanks to a recent snowfall, the surrounding hills were covered in crisp, white snow. However, with the area mostly sitting in a broad, flat valley framed by the Rock and Pillar Range, the snowline could be clearly seen on the surrounding hills, leaving the valley itself clear and cool on a typical winter’s day.

Kokonga, on the other hand, sits on the edge of the Maniototo and Strath Taieri basins, and thanks to a short climb in elevation, the transformation was quite remarkable. The clear roads and surrounding farmland had been replaced by a patchwork of white, disappearing into the mist beyond.

Kokonga

Daily Photo – Kokonga

Of course, when I arrived in Kyeburn, the only thing I found was a hard frost. Having settled overnight, it stretched across the fields as far as the eye could see, and by the time I reached Kokonga, it seemed even more bitter.

A few kilometres before the small settlement, I had passed through the Maniototo in the early morning. The hills lay flat and peaceful, like sleeping animals. Scattered farms stood distant and isolated; fields climbed up to the rolling hillsides, giving the valley a far-flung feel. The sun had yet to take hold of the day and, for the meantime, remained tucked away behind dark, puffy clouds. On a short stretch of road beside a frozen field, I passed a sign that read “Railway Road – No Exit”, the track itself running only a short distance up into the hills. I pulled over beside an old, forgotten fenceline and got out to look around. There was no one about. Presumably, the people of Kokonga were still sensibly tucked up in bed, warm and cosy.

I wandered past a house with a neatly kept garden – no sign of life – and then along the former railway line, now part of the Central Otago Rail Trail. I stopped where the view opened over a scattering of caravans and huts that sat in the frost-stiffened grass, paint peeling, windows squinting out at the day as if half-asleep. Behind them, the hills rolled away into the distance, capped with snow and looking noble and grand, as mountains often do. The whole scene lay under a pale winter sky, stark, cold, beautiful in a way that makes you wonder if the people living here are brave, mad, or a little of both. I pondered that notion for a bit, not reaching a conclusion as my feet crunched their way back to the warmth of my car.

Kokonga Road In The Maniototo

Kokonga Road – Buy 

That morning I had set off with the idea of heading towards Middlemarch and maybe continuing on to Kyeburn in the Maniototo. However, beyond that I really wasn’t sure what I was going to do. I’m not sure when, but at some point I decided to detour into Waipiata via Kokonga and Kokonga Road.