The Town That Vanished: On the Trail of Gold in Hindon

Daily Photo – Hindon & The Silverpeaks

I spent a good few hours of the afternoon in Hindon for two reasons. Firstly, I couldn’t remember the last time I’d visited the place, and a strenuous adventure along unpaved, steep, narrow, and winding roads that featured a shared road-and-rail bridge with sharp bends and steep drop-offs  seemed just the thing.

My second, and more compelling, reason for going was that I wanted to see the settlement where nearly 1,200 miners once swarmed the gullies and terraces in the hope of striking it rich. After Gabriel Reid discovered gold in a small gully near the Otago town of Lawrence in 1861, everyone went absolutely bonkers. Within weeks, the population of Dunedin skyrocketed as news of his discovery spread and hopeful prospectors poured into the newly found goldfields. One of the settlements that sprang up almost overnight was a small township in the Silverpeaks range near Dunedin, called Hindon. However, as with most gold rushes, once the gold ran out, the miners quickly moved on to new fields, while the real fortunes were made by the merchants selling shovels, the innkeepers charging exorbitant fees for a night’s rest, and those who realised that gold is often easier to extract from the desperate than from the earth itself.

Hindon

Daily Photo – Hindon

The drive to Hindon can’t be described as a sedately, peaceful trip through the wide spread scrub of the Silverpeaks Range. It’s more like a strenuous ordeal that’s an adventure in itself. The road is unpaved, steep, narrow and winding that includes passing over a shared road/rail bridge with sections that have sharp bends and steep drop-offs. In a sense, it’s scenic but challenging.  Fortunately, I’m a wonderful driver and was able to expertly navigate my way through to Hindon. In fact, I was navigating the road so well, a local who was tending his garden took the time to yell, scream and wave at me in the most dramatic fashion. I acknowledged his friendly one arm jester with a wave, and returned to the spectacular scenery that provided views of the Taieri River, dramatic rock formations that disappeared into the distance, and the tracks of the Taieri Gorge Railway far below. 

To be fair, there isn’t actually a lot to do at Hindon apart from look at the scenery, read an information board, sit by the river or throw stones off the Hindon Road and Rail Bridge. Sitting by the river is fine if you want an afternoon of serenity in the summer sun, but this was the middle of winter and there was rain in the air. So, before I went to find a few good stones to hurl off the bridge into the river far below, I took the time to read the information board – something I always feel compelled to do. Later, having propelled some mighty fine stones off the bridge that landed in the river with a satisfying crash, I also discovered that the Hindon Railway Station not only served as a passenger stop, but it was a refreshment stop, a post office, and a school – quite the CV for a tiny building in the middle of nowhere. 

With that, my duties in Hindon complete, I returned to the car and began the steep ascent back to paved roads where there’s at least room for two, and no need for nervous prayers.

The Gullies and Terraces of Hindon

Hindon car and railway bridge

When Gabriel Reid discovered gold in a small gully near the Otago town of Lawrence in 1861, everyone went absolutely bonkers! Within weeks, the population of Dunedin skyrocketed as news of his announcement spread and everyone headed for the newly discovered gold fields in the hopes of getting rich. Following Gabriel’s initial find, small towns sprang up all over Otago as people with very little knowledge or experience in how to mine for gold arrived, and everyone went crazy with gold fever. One of those places was a small settlement in the Silverpeaks Mountain range near Dunedin, called Hindon.

At the time of the gold rush, nearly 1200 miners swarmed the gullies and terraces of Hindon hoping to strike it rich with an easy find. However, given the nature of gold rushes, once the gold ran out, miners quickly moved on to new goldfields while the real fortunes were made by the merchants selling shovels, the innkeepers charging exorbitant fees for a night’s rest, and the people who figured out that gold is easier to extract from the desperate than from the earth itself.