A Warm Day by the Sea

Daily Photo – St Kilda & St Clair Beach

I spent the morning walking the various coastal paths that stretch from St Clair to St Kilda Beach, occasionally breaking away from the formed track to wander through the sand dunes and along the beach for a while, before clambering back up to rejoin the path once more.

It was a warm Dunedin day, with the temperature having already climbed into the twenties by mid-morning. By Dunedin’s standards, the mercury was fairly soaring. I didn’t have anything more pressing to do than shuffle my way along the beach and trip through the dunes until I felt I’d done enough to earn a beer at the end of it all — which, as it turned out, was right around four o’clock when I finally made it home.

One Night on The Esplanade

Daily Photo – One Night on The Esplanade

I took this one night on the Esplanade, when I set out on one of my little missions of chance – otherwise known as “wandering about hoping something interesting happens.” I do this from time to time, mostly as a personal creative challenge, or perhaps as an excuse to postpone doing anything more sensible. The light wasn’t ideal, but that’s often when the best surprises appear, if you’re patient – or slightly foolish – enough to look for them.

And before you ask, no, the lights along St Clair aren’t actually those colours. They’re the usual street lamps, those modern LED ones that bathe everything in a sort of sterile hospital glow. Once upon a time, they were sodium vapour and turned the place a cheery shade of orange, like the world’s largest baked bean. I decided to give them a bit of artistic encouragement,  a dash of colour and variation, just to see what might happen. After all, if the evening insists on being ordinary, you might as well give it a little nudge.

Déjà View: St Clair at Dawn

Daily Photo – Déjà View: St Clair at Dawn

I have absolutely no idea if I’ve posted this photo here before. I can’t for the life of me remember – which probably says something worrying about my memory. Still, if I have, consider it an encore performance. I took it one morning at St Clair when the sky looked as if someone had spilled raspberry syrup across the horizon. Hard to say whether it was the sunrise or the coffee that woke me up first.

The Esplanade

Daily Photo – The Esplanade

I had a good walk along the St Clair Esplanade and along the beach, enjoying the combination of a slow mid-morning amble and sun-splashed water, unsurprised that many had the same idea. On the way back to the car park, I passed the busy cafés and restaurants doing a brisk morning trade as people soaked up the spring sunshine outside the various buildings that line the sea front.

The newest of these establishments is a three-storey apartment and retail complex that opened earlier in the year. While the upper floors are apartments offering splendid sea views and the chance to watch the tops of people’s heads as they stroll past, the ground floor features a wine bar next door to an authentic artisan gelato shop. The whole complex gives the area a more complete, polished feel – especially since the section had sat empty since the old St Clair dairy was pulled down in 2001. The place was alive with people eating, drinking coffee, walking dogs, carrying surfboards, and generally carting every sort of thing one might take to the beach on the first day of a long holiday weekend.

Blackhead Beach

Daily Photo – Blackhead Beach

Looking up at those dark cliffs and their strange hexagonal pillars at Blackhead Beach, you get the feeling the earth here is older than time itself. And in a way, it is. The headland was born about ten million years ago, when the great Dunedin Volcano was still rumbling and lava was spilling into the sea. As it cooled, the molten rock cracked and shrank into perfect six-sided columns, nature’s own geometry lesson. The result is the striking formation known locally as the “Roman Baths,” a natural amphitheatre of basalt that looks as if it were carved by an ancient civilisation rather than made by chance.

Yet, long before geologists admired these pillars or quarry trucks began to rumble nearby, Māori knew this place by very different names Te Wai o Tinarau, “the waters of Tinarau,” and Makereatu, roughly translated as “to leave a seed.” The names alone hint at a deep connection with both sea and story. Tinarau/Tinirau, is a figure in Polynesian culture associated with the sea. To name this coastline after him suggests an understanding that went beyond simple geography, a recognition of the tides, the fish, and the life that springs from the sea.

Even the second name, Makereatu, has a poetry to it. A sense of something passed on, perhaps the way every wave that breaks here leaves behind a trace of the one before. It’s a reminder that places like Blackhead are layered not just in basalt, but in meaning. The rocks tell a tale written in lava; the names tell one spoken in generations. Both deserve to be read slowly.

Dunedin’s Quiet Moments: Dusk at the Beach

Dusk at Blackhead Beach

Now, I know I might be completely biased here, but New Zealand has some wonderful beaches—and Dunedin’s are some of the best. They’re long, unspoilt, full of wildlife, as moody as they are imperfect—and I won’t hear a word against them!

On this occasion, I spent the evening watching the waves at Blackhead Beach roll in a steady rhythm, catching the last colours of dusk as they swept over the rocks as if in time with a Mozart symphony. Offshore, Green Island sat quietly beneath a lavender sky, as if it too were patiently waiting for night to return. I lingered for a few moments, watching the colours of the sky fade as evening took hold.

Aramoana Waves

Breaking wave at Aramoana

I’d parked at the informal carapark off Heyward Point Road, on Dunedin’s northern coast. From there, I followed the well-trodden track that led me through open farmland, a gentle incline that soon delivered me to the edge of the cliffs. It was an easy, steady walk and before long, I’d reached a vantage point that was quite splendid. 

The view opened up dramatically, revealing the Pacific Ocean in full splendour, with Aramoana laid out far below. I stood for a while, watching the waves roll in and out along the curve of the beach. Further out, ‘The Mole’ cut a line into the sea, stretching 1200 metres into open water. Behind it, Taiaroa Head and the entrance to Otago Harbour framed the horizon, rugged and timeless.

St Clair Esplanade at Daybreak 

St Clair Esplanade at daybreak 

I began the day with a walk along the Esplanade at St Clair. It’d been my intention to walk along the beach, however I completely misread the tide times. Instead of finding the beach at low tide which would have allowed me to walk out a distance and see the streetlights from a different perspective, I discovered it just after high tide. This is something I wasn’t expecting.

So, instead of a leisurely morning stroll on the beach, I settled for walking the nearby streets looking for interesting views and vantage points.

The Devine Beach

Lawyers Head, St Kilda and St Clair Beach

It was one of those stunning summer days where the sun was shining, it was hot and the sky was clear without a breath of wind. I had spent the morning completing a few errands in town, and having finished all my tasks, I rewarded myself with a walk to the beach. I made my way through suburbs with neatly manicured lawns and streets lined with vehicles of all shapes and sizes. Eventually the coast came into view and the familiar smell of sand and saltwater filled the air. I made my way to the top of a line of sand dunes that looked out over the beach and stretched far into the distance. I was so impressed, I instantly gave it my International Beach of the Year Award before heading off to explore the nearby rock pools while getting dive bombed by contemptuous sea-gulls.

Summer Change At Lawyers Head

Summer change at Lawyers Head

The warmth of the afternoon that had seemingly lingered forever, finally gave way late in the day. The clear blue skies had been engulfed by a dark, mood bank of cloud that had rolled in, bringing with it intense wind gusts that seemed intent on battering everything in its path. The once calm and peaceful blue ocean had been transformed into a brooding, angry mass that was beginning to churn and swell into the rocky shoreline of Lawyers Head and beyond to St Kilda beach. Far off in the distance the gathering clouds gave an ominous prediction of heavy rain. The once lovely summer’s day had suddenly changed, almost as if by the flick of a switch. 

Dusk In The Dunes

Dusk in sand dunes at St Kilda beach

The evening light set the ocean alight with warm hues of orange, yellow and blue as I walked through the dunes. Nearby the gentle swell rolling toward the shore. It was early summer, and the air, filled with salt, carried the last traces of the day’s warmth. Silhouetted hills loomed in the distance while sea grasses swayed lazily on the dunes. The quiet beauty of the sunset fading as the light dipped.

Dunedin Evening Light

Sunset beyond St Clair

The ocean, alive and golden, shimmered like glass as the sun sank behind the hills above St Clair. I floated, suspended in water that glowed with the kind of warmth only early summer knows. Waves rolled gently to the shore, while clouds blushed a deep, contented orange. The world, caught between day and night and for a fleeting moment as the last of the daylight  shimmered on the horizon.

Sunset On St Kilda Beach.

Sunset on St Kilda beach.

Here in Dunedin it’s getting to that lovely time of year when the sun rises early, the days are warm and the light lasts long into the evening. At this time instead of the sun setting behind the hills, it dips below the horizon far down the coast. Meaning from beaches like St Kilda, you can sit on the beach deep into evening and watch it fade from sight with the hypnotic rhythms of breaking waves acting as a backdrop.

To Breathe The Salt Air

Evening surfer at St Clair

It’s the simplicity I like about this image, two colours and surfer – that’s it! A bright orange sky lighting up the horizon, late in the evening after sunset while the ocean rolls in a deep hue of blue. There are different tones within both of these colours while a surfer patiently waits, looking off into the distance. It’s so very uncomplicated yet full of complexity, both at the same time. 

Dunnerstunner

St Clair from St Kilda Beach, Dunedin.

The day was fine and clear, the wind had dropped away and with summer only a few weeks away, the daylight was going to run deep into the evening. It was what locals call a stunner of a day with the temperature sitting at a warm 16 degrees. Throughout the day, the beach had been a popular place and as late afternoon started to turn to early evening, a peaceful calm had settled along the coast.

The Edge of the World

Blackhead Beach

It was like I was standing on the edge of the world, staring out over a restless sea as dark, brooding clouds gathered overhead. The water was an intense shade of turquoise, calm at the shore but stirring further out. Small waves, gentle yet insistent, rolled toward the beach, their white crests gleaming under the dimming light. There was a weight in the air, a tension, as if the ocean itself was holding its breath, waiting.

The Metropole

The Metropole building in St Clair, Dunedin

I’d spent the afternoon wandering along St Kilda then St Clair beaches. From there, I ventured up along the Esplanade and along to the end of Second Beach. Arriving at the end of the coastal path with nowhere left to go, I turned and retraced my steps until I once more arrived at the Esplanade. It was at that point that I realised that having spent all afternoon on foot, I decided to reward myself with a beer at a nearby bar and restaurant called Salt. Not having any particular place to be in the next short while, I spent the next few hours happily drinking a few pints, eating food and reading a book. Suddenly noticing it was getting dark outside, I gathered my belongings that now seemed to be scattered across the table and headed for home. 

The Hydro On The Esplanade.

The Hydro on the esplanade.

It was early evening and I had been wandering for some time. Eventually, I came to the Esplanade and strolled along the seafront, the buildings bathed in the soft glow of street lights, their warm light spreading halos across the deepening blue sky. The shark bell stood slightly imposing, sentinel over the promenade, a poignant reminder of a time when shark attacks seemed an altogether common occurrence in a bygone time. Nestled into the hillside beyond, the suburb of St Clair sparkled faintly in the background, adding a cozy touch to the urban serenity. It was one of those evenings where time seemed to slow in a silent sort of way.

Sunrise Over Tomahawk Beach

Sunrise over Tomahawk Beach

Recently, there have been some extremely lovely sunrises here in Dunedin. While I don’t know the exact science behind what causes a colourful sunrise, I believe it’s all to do with light beams coming into the earth’s atmosphere and hitting molecules. Then, something happens with blue lightwaves becoming shorter while red, orange and yellow lightwaves become longer while moving through the atmosphere. Of course, I could always be completely wrong!

One Thousand

First light over Tomahawk Beack in Dunedin

Today marks a significant milestone for my daily photoblog from a Small City which I’m delighted to share with you. This is my one thousandths consecutive daily post. That’s one thousand days without missing a single day. One thousand days where at 6am (mostly) a different photo has been posted. When people ask what my blog from a Small City is about, my response is that it’s a photoblog about discovering small towns, forgotten points of interest and the curiosities of my island home. It’s about interesting and amusing stories told through words and images about life in Aotearoa

In fact, when I started my purpose was to improve my photography through becoming a better writer. After all, it’s one thing to be able to take a photograph, it’s a completely different skill to be able to use words to create an ongoing narrative. I actually did a very rough calculation along with 1000 unique photos, I’ve written over 150,000 words! 

So, to those people who keep coming back, thank you very much for sharing my creative joy and please share it among your friends. I sincerely hope you keep returning because I very much enjoy the creative challenge. It’s kind of like having 5 minutes of escapism every single day. Or to put it another way, 300 seconds escaping from reality or everyday matters.

The Esplanade Restaurant

The Esplanade Restaurant

For something different I set myself a challenge. So, I went down to the Esplanade at St Clair, picked a spot and let the world pass me by. The challenge was to see what photos I could create while staying as close as possible to a single spot. This is the entrance to the well known local Italian beachfront Pizza Restaurant & Bar ‘The Esplanade.’ It advertises itself as a piece of Italy perched on the New Zealand beachfront in St Clair, Dunedin.

St Kilda Beach

Sunset on St Kilda Beach

The next day there was wind in the forecast and they were right! I was meant to be heading for a walking track on the Otago Peninsula, this time heading south-east instead of the north-easterly direction I began with the previous day. However, as my intended path passed by several cliffs, I decided it would be prudent to wait until the wind was scheduled to ease in the afternoon. 

So it was that I found myself on the Otago Peninsula heading for the well known Karetai walking track and beyond to Smaills and Tomahawk Beaches late in the afternoon. By the time I reached the end of Tomahawk Beach, a distance of some 6 kilometres, I had the inclination to head over the hill to St Kilda Beach where if I was lucky, the sun might be setting and I could be in time to capture the sunset from the rocks at Lawyers Head. Several minutes later, having passed over a golf course, I arrived to find that the wind from earlier in the day had dropped to a gentle breeze carrying with it the scent of salt-air and seaweed. I stood and observed the varying swells that moved between the rock pools for a few minutes as the tide flowed back and forth. All the while, as I predicted, the sun was setting over the Dunedin hills. Setting my gear down, and having enjoyed my previous few days walking in the evenings, I set upon a decision. With nothing scheduled for the next several days at least, where possible I would headout to photograph the early evening sky.

St Clair Salt Water Pool

St Clair Salt Water Pool

The thing about winter is that the daylight hours are shorter. Cold weather I can handle, however what I find difficult to accept is the lack of daylight. Every winter, there is always a point when I realise I’ve become something akin to mole. For me, it’s just been and so when Saturday arrived, I was delighted with the fact that it was daylight and I wasn’t at work! In celebration, I spent the first few hours familiarising myself with what the house looked like in natural light before heading out into the garden. Later, with the day sunny and still with all my holdhouse chores taken care of, I made up my mind to venture down to the beach. So, with my camera in hand, I headed out the door into a warm Saturday afternoon.

The Evening Tide at St Clair

The Evening Tide

I watched the incoming tide for a few minutes, turned and headed for the far opposite end of the Esplanade. The whole area was quiet in the fading light as the street lights started to take hold. Reaching the end of the Esplanade by the Salt Water Pool, I paused beside a cafe that must have closed several hours ago. Once again I stood and watched the tide roll in, breaking against the rocks before receding out into the backwash. Every so often patches of sand became exposed, revealing leftover seaweed and driftwood that would shift and move with the tide. I took a moment to look out across the ocean. As the light had continued to fade, the sea had taken on a moody grey-blue complexion. Suddenly to my left the lights of the Hotel St Clair came on and drew my attention back to the Esplanade. In the blue hour of evening, I walked in the salty sea air as darkness took hold.

A Glimpse of Spring

St Kilda beach at dusk

The other week, while the weather was calm and pleasant I spent a few evenings exploring the beach. On this occasion, the evening was warm as dusk took hold and colours from the setting sun lingered in the sky before disappearing from sight. In fact, the weather was so warm and settled that blossoms started appearing on trees around Dunedin and the MetService had to remind locals that ‘We’re not out of winter just yet.’ A few days later, snow appeared in the forecast!

St Clair Beach At Sunrise

St Clair Beach at Sunrise

The beach was still and calm as I looked out over the ocean. The sky was an exquisite blend of deep blues and purples, with streaks of orange and yellow near the horizon where the sun was first appearing. The reflections of the colourful sky on the wet sand created a mesmerising effect. To my left were stairs that led up to the Esplanade, illuminated by the warm glow of the morning light. In the distance, lights started to appear as people awoke, adding to the tranquil and picturesque scene.