Aotearoa, Creativity, Dunedin, Ōtepoti, Wild Horses

Corner of Rattray and Princess Street

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Corner of Rattray and Princess Street in Dunedin

The city streets had an unhurried feel about them in the early morning air. I made my way past buildings of various sizes, the smell of coffee and bacon drifting from an establishment across the road on the gentle morning breeze. As I got closer to the source of the alluring morning aroma, I could see a nearby cafe bustling with people. Clearly it had already been open for some time as it was filled with a varying degree of customers waiting for their morning fix. Moving on, the city itself was surprisingly warm for pre-7am in winter, the crisp morning air and the clear skies gaving an indication that the day was going to be what locals called a stunning winter’s day.

Aotearoa, East Otago, Waitati, Wild Horses

Morning Vibes In Waitati

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Blueskin Bay in Waitati

Arriving at Blueskin Bay, just outside the little village of Waitati near Dunedin, the morning surrounds offered one of those sunrises that could make even the most hardened cynic stop and stare. Expecting to find a peaceful bay in the throes of morning, perhaps a few seabirds, the odd hitchhiker on the side of the road, but what I encountered was something altogether more spectacular.

As the morning awoke, the sky put on a performance that would have put an artist to shame. It began subtly enough, with the sky changing to a vibrant blue hue across the landscape. But soon, as if on cue, the sky exploded into a riot of colours so vibrant that it was almost surreal. Deep blues and purples mixed with fiery oranges and pinks, streaking across the dawn sky.

In that fleeting moment, Blueskin Bay wasn’t just a picturesque spot near Dunedin; it was a testament to the raw, breathtaking beauty of New Zealand’s southern coast— if only for a wondrous moment.

Aotearoa, Dunedin, Orokonui, Ōtepoti, Wild Horses

Orokonui Lagoon

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Orokanui Lagoon

As I strolled along the wooden path, which had been thoughtfully placed to guide visitors through this natural haven, I couldn’t help but marvel at the surroundings. The boardwalk itself, weathered yet sturdy, meandered gracefully through a landscape that could best be described as a symphony of greens. The air filled with the earthy scent of damp grass, mingling with the faint, sweet perfume from flowers that seemed to peek shyly from beneath the undergrowth.

On either side of the path, tall grasses swayed lazily in the gentle breeze, casting playful shadows across the weathered wood. The sunlight filtered through the trees, dappling the ground in a pattern so enchanting it looked as if nature itself had taken up painting as a hobby. When the canopy above parted, the hills in the distance came into view as though beckoning me to explore further.

The lagoon made its presence known through the occasional appearance of bird life. It was a place where time seemed to slow down, allowing you to drink in the quiet beauty of the world around you. In that moment, surrounded by the gentle hum of nature, I felt an overwhelming sense of peace, as if I had stumbled upon a secret that only the lucky few would ever discover.

Aotearoa, Creativity, Oamaru, Processing Photos, Wild Horses

Bank of Otago (Former) in Oamaru

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Bank of Otago (Former) in Oamaru

For this photo I seriously considered editing it to take out the large ANZ sign on the left. It’s rather ugly and when I first looked at the photo, it completely took away from the rest of the building. However, upon closer inspection I decided to hide it instead. After editing the photo in Lightroom and adding a preset I made called ‘lift off for AJ’, I opened it in photoshop. From there, I added a vignette to darken the surrounds and draw the eye into the centre of the photo. The fact that the building is made of Oamaru stone means it looks awesome with filters that highlight the texture, tones and colours of the bank which was built in 1870.

Aotearoa, Central Otago, Hills Creek, St Bathans, Travel, Wild Horses

Central Otago

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The Hawkdun Range near St Bathans

When it comes to naming places, it pays to be first or to know the right person. Take British surveyor John Turnbull Thompson for example. He spent fifteen years in Singapore and has a long list of walks, views, roads, rivers, regions, parks and even a medical centre named after him due to his work in the region. Then, upon arrival in New Zealand, he set about surveying and exploring large sections of the South Island. As did so, he named many areas after places in Northern England and south-east Scotland where he and his family were from. Take the area formerly known as Dunstan Creek, when John Turnbull Thompson arrived to survey the area, he decided to rename the place. So, he chose the birthplace of his maternal grandfather, Abbey St Bathans in Scotland. Now the area is simply known as St Bathans

Aotearoa, Christchurch, Christchurch CBD, Wild Horses

Robert Falcon Scott & Tom Crean

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Robert Falcon Scott Statue in Christchurch

One of the things that I didn’t do in Ireland, that is now on my ‘next time I’m there list’, is visiting the Dingle Peninsula. I’d heard it’s nothing short of stunning and gorgeous, with thousands of years worth of history. It’s also the place that Irish explorer Tom Crean called home. 

From the small village of Annascaul on the Dingle Peninsula, Tom Crean joined the Royal Navy at the age of 16. By the time he was 24, he found himself on British explorer Robert Falcon Scott’s ship Discovery in his failed attempt to reach the South Pole in 1901. When Scott returned to Antarctica for another attempt at the pole in 1910, Tom Crean once again invited along. In fact, Scott was so impressed with Crean on his initial attempt at the pole, he was one of the first people recruited for the return mission. So, when Scott’s party finally began their march towards the pole in Antarctica in November 1911, Crean was an important part of the polar team. As they marched south with a mix of tractors, dogs and horses, the party grew smaller and smaller as machines broke down, horses and dogs were shot and men were sent back to base camp. Eventually, when the final pole party of 5 was announced and Tom Crean wasn’t included, Scott wrote in his diary that Crean wept with disappointment at the prospect of having to turn back. 

As Crean headed back to the Ross Island base, Scott and his companions pushed to the pole. They arrived on 17 January 1912, only to find that Norwegian Roald Amundsen had beaten them by nearly a month. Utterly devastated, Scott and his party started their long march home in a terrible state. Weak, hungry, low on rations and suffering from frostbite, the five men in Scott’s pole party desperately pushed on for home. The first to die was Edgar Evans followed by Lawrence Oats. On the 19th March the three remaining men of Henry Bowers, Edward Wilson and Robert Scott pitched a tent just 11 miles from the large One Ton Depot. Trapped by a blizzard with little food and even less fuel, the three men sat out the blizzard, they wouldn’t survive. When the tent was finally discovered eight months later, the positions of the bodies suggest Scott was the last to die. His final words written in his journal: For God’s sake look after our people.Tom Crean returned to the Antarctic a third time with Ernest Shackleton’s ill-fated Endurance Expedition in 1914. The Endurance became trapped in ice and the mission became one of survival. They hauled their gear (boat’s included) until the pack ice broke up, sailed to Elephant Island and then four men (including Shackleton and Crean) sailed on to South Georgia Island before trekking across the mountainous landscape to the whaling station at Stromness.

Years later, Crean returned to the Navy until he retired in 1920. In 1938, he became ill with a burst appendix which eventually took his life in July 1938. Today a statue of Tom Crean stands in his hometown of Annascaul, while Robert Falcon Scott is recognised and celebrated all over the world.

Aotearoa, Beach, Beach Life, Dunedin, Ōtepoti, Wild Horses

St Clair Salt Water Pool

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St Clair Salt Water Pool

The thing about winter is that the daylight hours are shorter. Cold weather I can handle, however what I find difficult to accept is the lack of daylight. Every winter, there is always a point when I realise I’ve become something akin to mole. For me, it’s just been and so when Saturday arrived, I was delighted with the fact that it was daylight and I wasn’t at work! In celebration, I spent the first few hours familiarising myself with what the house looked like in natural light before heading out into the garden. Later, with the day sunny and still with all my holdhouse chores taken care of, I made up my mind to venture down to the beach. So, with my camera in hand, I headed out the door into a warm Saturday afternoon.

Aotearoa, Dunedin, Ōtepoti, Travel, Wild Horses

Lan Yuan, Dunedin Chinese Garden

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Lan Yuan, Dunedin Chinese Garden

Because I strayed from my intended path, I ended up in the tranquillity of Lan Yuan, Dunedin Chinese Garden. The gardens were quiet with the only other visitors being two men playing chess in the tearooms. It really was peaceful and serene. Created with the support of the Shanghai Municipal Government, the gardens are New Zealand’s only authentic Chinese Garden and when it was opened, one of only three outside China. 

Aotearoa, Stewart Island, Travel, Wild Horses

Lewis Acker’s Place

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Lewis Acker’s place

I’ve written about the amazing life of Lewis Acker before but I couldn’t resist another revisit. He started life in New England, America and went to sea which brought him to the shores of Aotearoa as a 16 year old. Several years later he returned as part of the sealing and whaling industry eventually before purchasing 600 acres of land on Stewart Island. In a small bay he built a remarkable stone, one room, two windowed house where he lived with his wife Mary Pi and eight children until they moved back to the mainland. He spent time working in the sealing and whaling industry, he built boats, ran a sawmill, was a river boat pilot and also ran a farm. At the time of his death in 1885, aged around 70 he had been married twice and was father to 14 children, having outlived six of them. So, ending the tale of Lewis Acker.

Aotearoa, East Otago, Hampden, North Otago, Waitaki District, Wild Horses

Hampden Pond

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Hampden Pond

In Hampden, which is around 40 kilometres south of Oamaru, I found a small wee pond near the beach. I’d actually stopped for a bite to eat beside the beach and while I was eating, I spotted a small pond across the road. The pond itself wasn’t very large, but it had all manner of reflections and life buzzing around it and a strange deep colour which only made it more interesting.

Aotearoa, Beach, Beach Life, Dunedin, Ōtepoti, Wild Horses

The Evening Tide at St Clair

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The Evening Tide

I watched the incoming tide for a few minutes, turned and headed for the far opposite end of the Esplanade. The whole area was quiet in the fading light as the street lights started to take hold. Reaching the end of the Esplanade by the Salt Water Pool, I paused beside a cafe that must have closed several hours ago. Once again I stood and watched the tide roll in, breaking against the rocks before receding out into the backwash. Every so often patches of sand became exposed, revealing leftover seaweed and driftwood that would shift and move with the tide. I took a moment to look out across the ocean. As the light had continued to fade, the sea had taken on a moody grey-blue complexion. Suddenly to my left the lights of the Hotel St Clair came on and drew my attention back to the Esplanade. In the blue hour of evening, I walked in the salty sea air as darkness took hold.

Aotearoa, Haast Past, Makarora, Travel, Wild Horses

Makarora Valley

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The Makarora Valley

I drove on to Makarora along Stage Highway 6, passing farmland that had been saturated with recent rain and surrounded by peaks that formed part of the Southern Alps. Eventually, arriving in the tiny settlement of Makarora. This was going to be my base for the next few days, however since the day was young and with a bit of time to spare, I pointed the car in the direction of the Makarora Valley and went for a look around.

Aotearoa, Beach, Beach Life, Dunedin, Ōtepoti, Wild Horses

A Glimpse of Spring

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St Kilda beach at dusk

The other week, while the weather was calm and pleasant I spent a few evenings exploring the beach. On this occasion, the evening was warm as dusk took hold and colours from the setting sun lingered in the sky before disappearing from sight. In fact, the weather was so warm and settled that blossoms started appearing on trees around Dunedin and the MetService had to remind locals that ‘We’re not out of winter just yet.’ A few days later, snow appeared in the forecast!

Aotearoa, Central Otago, Hills Creek, St Bathans

The Hawkdun Range

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The Hawkdun Range

Not long after I took this photo I discovered I had a flat tyre, which wasn’t really ideal! If you get a flat tyre on a busy road, at least you know the consistent stream of traffic that’ll pass you by offers some comfort in that help is never far away if you need it. However, on this occasion I really wasn’t close to anything! I’d been travelling for some time on gravel roads and I stopped to photograph a fence line that looked interesting. Well, I’m not sure what I parked on, however once I headed off again, I noticed my car wasn’t functioning as smoothly as it was before. Pulling over to investigate, I discovered the flat tyre. Later, after changing the tyre I decided there was only one action to take. I headed back to the pub I was staying at and settled in for the evening. 

Aotearoa, Kapiti Island, Travel, Wild Horses

Kapiti Marine Reserve

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Kapiti Marine Reserve

Some years ago, I had the pleasure to spend a day on Kapiti Island. Accessible only by specific ferry companies, Kapiti Island is a wonderful place to spend some time. These days, the predator-free Island is managed by the Department of Conservation however back in the mid-1830s, there were up to five whaling stations on the island. At the time, European traders and whalers were populating the coastlines and so local iwi provided them with land, pigs, potatoes, dressed flax and women in return for guns, tobacco and alcohol.

During the 1840s, the whaling trade/industry around parts of New Zealand had started to fade away. Kapiti Island was one of these locations. At this time, much of the land on the Island was cleared for farming and sheep, goats, pigs, deer, cats, and dogs were introduced. For the next forty to fifty years, the island was farmed until around 1900 when the government purchased most of the island and developed it into a predator-free, bird sanctuary. Being a nature reserve, it lies 5 kilometres off the West Coast of the North Island, at Paraparaumu. For over 100 years it has been managed by the New Zealand Government in order to protect its flora and fauna.

In 1992 Kapiti Marine Reserve was established to protect the nationally significant Marine life in the area. It also connects Kapiti Island Nature Reserve and Waikanae Estuary Reserve to form a rare continuum of protected land, sea and estuary habitats.

Aotearoa, Central Otago, St Bathans, Travel, Wild Horses

St Bathans Township

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St Bathans Township (in Black n White)St Bathans Township

How I like the small Central Otago town of St Bathans, I wish I owned property there. I wish I could afford to own property there. If ever I was to buy a place I used to think it would be Arrowtown, however as a town it’s changed dramatically over the last few years and so my thinking has changed to St Bathans. I like the idea of relaxing in the quiet solitude, making art inspired by the way the landscape changes with the seasons. But, since owning property is out of the question, I’ll settle for the odd day trip here and there.

Aotearoa, Central Otago, Clyde, Travel, Wild Horses

Clyde

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Dunstan House in Clyde

I found my way to Clyde and Dunstan House, which I was quite looking forward to seeing. I always enjoy places with a bit of history and ‘The Dunstan’ as it is affectionately known dates back to 1900 and the building before that was constructed in the 1860’s during the gold rush. The building has all sorts of stories to tell, some of which I heard from the owners. One goes along the lines of, back in the gold rush days the house had a hatch from the cellar to the bar where dancing girls would pop up from to entertain the miners.

Alexandra, Aotearoa, Central Otago, Travel, Wild Horses

Alexandra Bridge In Autumn Colours

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Alexandra Bridge in Autumn

The Alexandra Bridge, like the clock on the hill, is a bit of an icon.  While the newer version of the bridge is the one most people are familiar with, it’s the remains of the previous bridge that is the real monument. When it was built in 1882, the Alexandra Bridge was one of the country’s most glorious structures and a true feat of engineering. These days, the surviving piers and towers are a testament to its wonderful construction, having withstood the force of the Clutha river for more than 140 years.

Aotearoa, North Island, Travel, Wellington, Wild Horses

Mount Victoria in Wellington

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Mount Victoria lookout in Wellington

In Wellington, with some unexpected time on my hands I decided to go for a bit of an exploration. Since my hire car wasn’t due back at the airport till mid afternoon and the day was fine, I filled the next few hours by going for a drive. My first stop was a visit to Mount Victoria, part of the Wellington Town Belt. Formed in 1841 by the colonial New Zealand Company, the land was put aside for a public recreation ground to be created for the inhabitants of Wellington. At the top of the Mount Victoria Town Belt is a 360 degree view of the city which really is rather impressive. For those that are feeling energetic, walking tracks lead from the harbour on Oriental Parade up to the lookout; however, if you’re wanting an easier option like I was, you can simply drive.  

Aotearoa, Glenorchy, Paradise, Travel, Wild Horses

Paradise

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Dan’s Paddock at Paradise

While staying in Glenorchy, I decided to go on a day trip beyond the head of Lake Wakatipu towards the Dart River. The main reason for my trip was simple. I wanted to be able to say ‘I’ve been to Paradise’ and for those that don’t know, yes there really is a place in Aotearoa called that. It’s actually more of an area than a specific spot with a few farms scattered around near the Dart River which flows from the Southern Alps into the northern end of Lake Wakatipu near Glenorchy.

So, heading for Paradise, I left Glenorchy on the Glenorchy-Paradise Road, crossed the Rees River and passed places called Earnslaw and Diamond Lake before arriving in Paradise. Curious about what was further along the road, I continued, eventually stopping at a place called Dan’s Paddock for a wander around a stretch of the legs. Sometime later, satisfied with my day’s efforts, I turned the car around and headed back to Glenorchy.

Aotearoa, Kingston, Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown-Lakes District, South Island, Wild Horses

Lake Wakatipu and the Devil’s Staircase

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Lake Wakatipu and the Devil’s Staircase

Driving somewhere between Middlemarch and Hyde, while listening to a podcast about New Zealand history, for some reason I recalled the story of Captain Frederick Burwell and the Southland Hussars. Formed in the 1860’s in response to fears of a Russian invasion, the cavalry corps were intent upon defending the Otago-Southland coast. At the time, there were many volunteer militias throughout New Zealand, so it wasn’t unusual for settlers to sign up to volunteer groups.

So, in 1885, when an April Review was held in Queenstown, up to 258 men from surrounding areas were due to gather. In Kingston, Captain Frederick Burwell needed to take his 30 men from the end of Lake Wakatipu up to the Review assembly point in Queenstown. However, instead of going via boat, for some reason he decided to travel overland. A journey that took him and his men via the notorious Devils Staircase. Travelling on horseback, they negotiated their way over small, narrow and rugged tracks next to sheer vertical drops before facing near perpendicular rock faces in spots over 1000 feet high. Once they reached the summit, a magnificent view of the lake came into view. Having passed the famous Staircase, the Kawarau River was crossed by punt, arriving in Queenstown late in the afternoon where Captain Burwell and his men were warmly greeted, having successfully completed an arduous 40 mile journey. Just why Captain Burwell opted for the deadly overland trip via the Devils Staircase instead of the easier ferry trip was never fully explained.

Aotearoa, Maheno, North Otago, Oamaru, Travel, Wild Horses

Clarks Mill near Oamaru

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Clarks Mill near Oamaru

On a whim, I stopped at Clarks Mill. I was on my way to Christchurch and when the historic mill came into view, some 15 kilometres south of Oamaru, for no particular reason I pulled the car over and made the decision to have a look around. Unfortunately, the mill was closed and all locked up so I was forced to be content with wandering around the grounds. However, I was able to find out that the milling of wheat and flour was a key component of the early North Otago economy and Clarks Mill was an important part of that production. Opened in 1867 for the New Zealand and Australia Land Company, Clarks Mill was originally equipped with grinding stones powered by a water wheel. Since the mill was in a rather awkward location beside a bend of the Kakanui River, it required the construction of a long water race to power it.

Aotearoa, Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown, Travel, Wild Horses

The TSS Earnslaw

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The TSS Earnslaw in Queenstown

As I stood on the dock, the crisp morning air filled my lungs and the beauty of Queenstown surrounded me. The TSS Earnslaw, an iconic steamship affectionately known as the “Lady of the Lake,” was moored majestically against the tranquil waters of Lake Wakatipu. Its vintage charm, accentuated by the bright red funnel and classic white hull, transported me back in time.

The surrounding mountains were nothing short of breathtaking. Snow-capped peaks of the Remarkables range loomed in the distance, their rugged beauty softened by light morning mist. The sun, still low in the sky, cast a golden glow, creating a picturesque contrast with the deep blue waters of the lake.

It was then that I realised that I had never actually been on the historic ship, maybe this is something I should change I thought to myself as I moved along the dock.

Aotearoa, Owaka, The Catlins, Travel, Wild Horses

Tunnel Hill Historic Railway

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Tunnel Hill railway at McDonald’s Saddle

Tunnels are amazing. Whenever I see one, I can never walk or drive past without stopping to go inside to investigate. On this occasion, I was heading for Balclutha having recently left the small town of Owaka. I had spent the day walking the Catlins River Track near Tawanui in the Owaka Valley and by the time I arrived back at my car, it was mid afternoon. Leaving Tawanui, I arrived in Owaka where I stopped for a bite to eat before continuing on to Tunnel Hill, the location of a disused 250 m long railway tunnel. Built between 1879 and 1915, the Catlins River Branch railway formed part of New Zealand’s national rail network which was constructed to provide access to the local timber industries. The tunnel was finished in 1896.

Aotearoa, Oamaru, South Island, Travel, Wild Horses

The Penguin Entertainers Club In Oamaru

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The Penguin Entertainers Club

Wandering around the Victorian Heritage precinct of Oamaru, I had a delightful time exploring all the alleyways that connect the surrounding area. They were filled with doors that were clearly delivery entrances and the usual assortment of rubbish bins and other bits and pieces you might find in an alleyway next to a busy shopping area. Along one passageway that ran between two historic buildings I came across a ramp and door that looked slightly different than all the rest. The sign on the door said, Jam Night: Members, Guests. The sign above said ‘The Penguin Club.’ It was one of those places that appeared to be still in use, but then again it was hard to tell. Intrigued, I made a note and continued on exploring the heritage buildings. 

Later, I read that the Penguin Entertainers Club started in 1990. Located in the annex of an old grain store, the space was made available for Oamaru musicians to practise, have a few drinks and mix with local talent and now, almost 35 years later the place is still going.

Aotearoa, South Canterbury, South Island, Travel, Wild Horses

Maybe South Canterbury?

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Railway track near State Highway 1

So, usually I’m pretty good at remembering where and when I was when I took a photo. It’s not often I can’t pinpoint an exact location, however this is one of those times. What I can tell you is that I was driving to Christchurch and somewhere beyond Timaru I stopped to stretch my legs. Spotting a walking track, I followed it and found myself under a bridge, with both railway tracks and a river next to me. It was fairly obvious from the surroundings that the river had recently flooded. This of course meant that I had to spend a lot of time avoiding puddles, something I wasn’t too successful at.

Aotearoa, Dunedin, Otago Peninsula, Ōtepoti, Travel, Wild Horses

The Karetai Coastal Walking Track

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The Karetai Walking Track

On a lovely bright winter’s morning, I was walking along the Karetai Track between Karetai Road and Smaills Beach when I came across a dozen or so empty beer bottles scattered in the long grass near a stone wall, next to the path. I’m sorry, but this is a scene we must examine for a moment. First of all, not only had they left the bottles but also the box, and judging by its condition it couldn’t have been sitting there more than a few days. The very least the owners might have done is put them back in the box! Secondly, to get the beer to its current location, it needed to be carried from the car park, a distance of some 50 metres. Either that or they lugged the thing up a very steep hill from the beach, and this seemed unlikely. If they (whoever they are?) went to all the trouble of carrying the beer to my present spot, I would have thought they could have taken it away with them. So, my question is this. What kind of person carries a box of beer, 50 metres along a public walking track, scatters all the empties and their rubbish round and simply disappears. Clearly my expectations of some sections of society are far too high! 

Having surveyed the scene, and it was a lovely spot to take in the view, I decided there was only one course of action available. I walked back to my car, collected a reusable shopping bag and proceeded to gather up all the empty bottles and took them with me. Leaving the path a little tidier for the next person.

Aotearoa, Beach, Beach Life, Dunedin, Ōtepoti, Wild Horses

St Clair Beach At Sunrise

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St Clair Beach at Sunrise

The beach was still and calm as I looked out over the ocean. The sky was an exquisite blend of deep blues and purples, with streaks of orange and yellow near the horizon where the sun was first appearing. The reflections of the colourful sky on the wet sand created a mesmerising effect. To my left were stairs that led up to the Esplanade, illuminated by the warm glow of the morning light. In the distance, lights started to appear as people awoke, adding to the tranquil and picturesque scene.

Aotearoa, Oban, Stewart Island, Travel, Wild Horses

The South Sea Hotel

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The South Sea Hotel

I found my way to the South Seas Hotel. Once inside I found a cosy bar where a dozen or so patrons were seated at an old wooden bar, engaged in conversation with the bartender. I looked around and took in the friendly, casual and relaxed atmosphere. It was then that I realised I was the only one not looking like I’d just spent a week in the bush. The place was rustic and inviting with all the charm that you’d want from a local gathering spot to relax and enjoy a drink. I decided to hang around for a bit.