Akaroa Farmers Market

Daily Photo – Zed’s Shed at the Akaroa Farmers Market

The first morning I was in Akaroa, the farmers’ market was on, so I took the opportunity to stop in for a slow wander around the various stalls. There’s something about a small-town market that feels instantly reassuring. The trestle tables, the hum of polite conversation, the scent of baking and coffee drifting through the cool coastal air. It’s less about what you buy and more about the ritual of being there.

While I was making my unhurried circuit, I stopped at a food truck called Zed’s Shed and ordered a bacon butty for brunch. It arrived wrapped in paper, warm in the hands, unapologetically simple yet delivered with flair. And I must say, it was very good. So good, in fact, that I briefly considered going back for a second. I stood there weighing up the decision with the seriousness of a man facing a life choice. In the end, however, my need for coffee proved greater than my appetite, so I set off in search of caffeine.

The Wreck of the Cutter The Brothers

Daily Photo – Akaroa Lighhouse

When the small cutter The Brothers entered Akaroa Harbour on 10 November 1842, it was the end of a long and important trip. Captained by a man named James Bruce, the ship had been at sea for eight weeks, navigating uncharted, rocky coastlines and battling subantarctic conditions beyond Stewart Island and Foveaux Strait – mapping harbours, landmarks and whaling stations around the South Island. As the trip came to an end, the final leg of the journey was scheduled to sail to Wellington, after calling in at Akaroa Harbour. As had happened on so many occasions, the cutter was due to drop anchor so some of the eleven passengers could disembark and supplies could be collected before the final run to Wellington began. With charts, maps, field books, instruments and survey records on board, the trip had been a success and had gathered a wide range of information that was going to be used to map future settlements for the New Zealand Company, who were promoting colonisation at the time.

Entering Akaroa Harbour, the vessel was suddenly hit by a squall blowing off the hills, capsizing the ship, turning her keel up and, in the process, destroying all the records, maps and plans that had been meticulously collected on the two month voyage. Upon sinking, most of the people on board were able to scramble into the small lifeboat, but a woman and two children, caught below deck when the cutter rolled, were not so fortunate.

Akaroa in Afternoon Sunshine

Daily Photo – Akaroa in Afternoon Sunshine

By the time I’d made my way down through the hills of Banks Peninsula back to Akaroa township, the weather was starting to clear. Eventually, the misty, heavy cloud cover gave way to bright sunshine. The bays sparkled as the entire area seemingly came to life in the warm afternoon light.

I strolled through bays with names like Children’s, French, and finally, Glen. Filled with boats and wharfs, the harbor was a hive of quiet activity; tourist cruises came and went, and sightseeing tours disappeared around the point at the far end of Glen Bay, the gateway to the wider harbour and, eventually, the Pacific Ocean. I strolled and strolled, my pace matching the slow-natured feeling of the afternoon. Near the Akaroa Lighthouse, I found a weathered wooden bench overlooking the calm, blue water. I watched the town’s colonial charm sharpen under the clarity of the light. The white timber cottages, with their bright trim, looked like something out of a storybook set against the dramatic, emerald-green backdrop of the surrounding hills.

Jetty at Akaroa

Daily Photo – Jetty at Akaroa

The pace of the journey dropped to a crawl. After the slow grind over the hills, I’d imagined myself arriving in the early evening to bright sunshine. I pictured it settling into a long, warm evening where the last of the tranquil summer light would linger before fading as night crept in. My plan was simple: sit in a warm garden bar, eat well, enjoy a few beers, and stumble to bed – tired but content.

Instead, what sunshine there was, had disappeared for the day, replaced by a brisk wind and heavy overhead clouds that threatened rain. It had been a long day, and I arrived in Akaroa feeling slightly disappointed with the weather. I dumped my bags in my hotel room, ate in a nearby restaurant, and retired to bed, still looking forward to exploring the town in what would surely be a sunny summer’s day.