Real Fruit Ice Cream
Welcome the first day of summer here in Aotearoa! Here’s a typically kiwi scene, ice cream at the beach on a stunning Dunedin day.
Blowin’ In The Wind
Lawyers Head towards Blackhead and Brighton.
This is one of my favourite views of Dunedin and I have no idea why! I’ve photographed it early in the morning, late in the evening and during the day. Many times I stop by and just simply stand there looking. Why do I like this view so much, maybe the answer is blowing in the wind!
The Savoy
The Savoy Restaurant
The Savoy Restaurant was once considered the finest dining room in the Southern Hemisphere. With its ornate Tudor Hall featuring English oak panelling, a magnificent Oamaru stone fireplace and stained glass windows, in the 1920s and 1930s it attracted consistently large numbers of diners.
Port Chalmers Maritime Museum
Port Chalmers Maritime Museum
Since I was in the area, I visited the Port Chalmers Maritime Museum which had recently been updated at a cost of $20 million. Upon entry, I liked it immediately, not least because it was free. Also, I didn’t have to navigate through a stupid gift shop or cafe just to get inside which was an added bonus. With the building’s new design taken on what is termed a minimalist approach, more than 25,000 photos and almost 12,500 items were shuffled around in the refurbishment.
Pig’s Head In The Pottage Pot Gant
In the 16th Century, a large number of Flemish weavers started migrating, making their way over to English places such as Lancashire, Yorkshire and Essex (including Braintree). As they did so, they turned the area into a major weaving region. In Braintree, where the buildings are tightly packed together, all sorts of alleyways were created that twisted and turned, eventually arriving at the old market square, where goods were sold. However, instead of being called alleyways, the paths were called ‘gants’, taken from the Flemish word ‘gang’ which meant corridor. So, in the town of Braintree, there are lots of small ‘gants’ throughout the town centre, one of which is called the ‘Pig’s Head in the Pottage Pot Gant‘.
The usual name for this gant has been derived over history. In the deeds from the area dated 1753, an inn is referred to in the gant with the name of “Dogshead in the Porridge Pott” and over the passing of time, it morphed into its current name.
In Every Alleyway On Every Avenue
Alleyway on Burlington Street
I love exploring a good alleyway. So, here’s a fact for you, The first known recorded use of the word alleyway is by American poet Philip Freneau who used the word in his writing in 1788. However, I’m a little sceptical about this for two reasons. Firstly, he’s American and Americans seem to always claim to be the first at everything. That’s a little suspicious if you ask me. Secondly, the word alley comes from the old French word ‘alee’ meaning walk or passage that dates back to the 1300s. So, it seems that for nearly five hundred years no-one had the bright idea to record the word in a written, published context as alleyway. Of course I’m being a bit facetious here.
But, speaking of alleyways, In 1811, the New York City Commissioners Plan of the city deliberately left out all alleys from the planning grid. This was so more housing and commercial buildings could be built, thus allowing landowners to earn more profit.
Of course, if you want to see interestingly named alleyways, then Braintree in Essex, England is the place to visit. However, in the small village they use the word ‘gant’ instead of alleyway. So, among the tightly packed buildings that lead to the old market square you’ll find gants with names like, the Leatherworkers Gant, Bird In Hand Gant, Hilly Gant, and Pig’s Head in the Pottage Pot Gant. Which is quite possibly the finest name for an alleyway or street I’ve ever heard.
DunedinNZ
Evening in Dunedin
Late Sunday evening over St Kilda and St Clair in Dunedin as spring prepares to roll into summer.
Dots Dots Dots
George Street in Dunedin
This is Dunedin’s George Street back when it had painted dots all over it due to Covid. The idea was to encourage a safer CBD by lowering the speed limit to 10km/h and painting 450 dots all over the street to promote social distancing. At the time it did raise the question of the council if it was wise to encourage people to walk in the middle of the road while cars would be driving along it. It also made people wonder if the $40,000 it cost was money well spent.
The Tangiwai Rail Disaster
The Whangaehu River at Tangiwai
10 kilometres west of the town Waiōuru in the central North Island, I arrived at a place called Tangiwai. The location of New Zealand’s worst railway accident where 151 died.
The tragedy occurred on Christmas Eve, 1953 and was caused when part of a carter wall containing a lake on the volcano Mount Ruapehu collapsed and a torrent of water surged down the Whangaehu River. Moments before the Wellington to Auckland express train arrived at the Tangiwai bridge, it had been damaged by the fast moving lahar and the bridge collapsed when the train began to cross it. Of the 285 passengers aboard the train, 151 died. To this day it remains New Zealand’s worst Railway accident.
The Hues of Otago Harbour
Sunset over Otago Harbour
It was late in the day and with just enough time left before the sunset, I went for a drive on the Otago Peninsula. I spent the next short while making random stops as the sun set and the sky changed through a various range of hues. Eventually, as the last light disappeared, I took in a lasting view of Otago Harbour.
To Breathe The Salt Air
Evening surfer at St Clair
It’s the simplicity I like about this image, two colours and surfer – that’s it! A bright orange sky lighting up the horizon, late in the evening after sunset while the ocean rolls in a deep hue of blue. There are different tones within both of these colours while a surfer patiently waits, looking off into the distance. It’s so very uncomplicated yet full of complexity, both at the same time.
The Boundary Track, Ross Creek
The Boundary Track, Ross Creek
The outstanding Ross Creek Reserve is quite simply marvellous. I can’t express how much I enjoy walking the various tracks that make up the entire reserve. There are multiple entry points to the tracks that take you up hills, down into valleys, past one of the oldest water supply reservoirs in the country and past dams. It links up with other nearby tracks that venture high into the Dunedin hills, past water falls and all the while you’re surrounded by an abundance of birdlife. It really is a wonderful place.
The Water Garden, Dunedin Botantic Garden
Water Garden, Dunedin Botantic Garden
I found my way back to the Dunedin Botanic Gardens, mainly because that was where my car was parked. Also, to see the Water Garden. With the Botanic Gardens split into two main sections, the Water Garden is located in the Lower part of the gardens, while I had spent my time on the various paths in the Upper section. From there, I had then made my way back to the carpark by way of zig-zagging through a number of side streets before suddenly remembering I was wanting to see what reflections I could find in the various nearby ponds.
Dunnerstunner
St Clair from St Kilda Beach, Dunedin.
The day was fine and clear, the wind had dropped away and with summer only a few weeks away, the daylight was going to run deep into the evening. It was what locals call a stunner of a day with the temperature sitting at a warm 16 degrees. Throughout the day, the beach had been a popular place and as late afternoon started to turn to early evening, a peaceful calm had settled along the coast.
Stormy Point In The Manawatu
Stormy Point Lookout in the Manawatu
While travelling through the North Island I called in at the historical place of Tangiwai before continuing on to Waiouru where I stopped for a bite to eat. From there, I headed for Palmerston North via Taihape, Waituna West, Cheltenham and Fielding. Along the way, I stopped and took in this view of the Manawatu. The only problem being, I couldn’t remember the precise location. However, with a little help from Google Street View I managed to discover that it was Stormy Point lookout which provides a simply phenomenal view stretching as far as Mt. Egmont and Mt. Ruapehu on the West Coast.
Ōtākaro
The Avon River / Ōtākaro
Finding myself on foot in central Christchurch, I started following the path of the Avon River as it twists and turns through central Christchurch. As I walked and followed the river, I discovered that there are useful information boards that tell you all sorts of interesting historical facts about not only the area, but the river itself. Such as, for early Māori the river was a rich source of food and a centre point for meeting and trading. I also discovered that while this trading and food gathering was happening, children who would play on the river bank. Which is why it was known to local Māori as Ōtākaro, meaning ‘place to play’.
Wonderland – Makarora Lodge
Wonderland – Makarora Lodge
The greatest thing about Wonderland – Makarora Lodge is its remote wilderness location. Surrounded by bush, this is an amazing hidden gem that’s a perfect place to switch off from the world and decompress from everyday life. Surrounded by towering mountain peaks, lush native forest and incredible birdlife, during the day you can walk the spectacular bush tracks while at night you can enjoy the unpolluted night sky. It’s the perfect place to switch off, do nothing and live the simple life for a few days (if that’s your thing!).
Tunnel Hill Near Owaka
Tunnel Hill railway at McDonald’s Saddle
I had spent the day walking the Catlins River Track near Tawanui in the Owaka Valley and by the time I arrived back at my car, it was mid afternoon. Leaving Tawanui, I arrived in Owaka where I stopped for a bite to eat before continuing on to Tunnel Hill, the location of a disused 250 m long railway tunnel. Built between 1879 and 1915, the Catlins River Branch railway formed part of New Zealand’s national rail network which was constructed to provide access to the local timber industries. The tunnel was finished in 1896.
Stirling Point in Bluff
Stirling Point in Bluff
I was greatly taken by Bluff. Despite the fact that when I was there, it was a bracing 5 degrees, the afternoon swell that was hitting the nearby rocks was only getting larger and I was struggling to stay upright in the wind surges. However, there was something about the town that seemed quite appealing in a confusing sort of way. There’s the Motupōhue Scenic Reserve to explore that includes the Tōpuni track to the top of Bluff Hill which provides spectacular views over Foveaux Strait and the Southland Plains. Close by there’s also the Glory track through dense bush and the Foveaux Walkway looking out at Foveaux Strait to Ruapuku and Rakiura Islands. Along these tracks you can also see the World War II gun emplacements while the shoreline was home to a whaling station at one point in history. Of course, you can always do what I did and park at the famous Stirling Point signpost which marks the end of State Highway 1 to see how far away you are from places like London, New York or Sydney.
Kororareka Bay in The Bay of Islands
Russell in The Bay of Islands
Russell in the Bay of Islands has many places like this, partly obscured views of the Kororareka Bay and they are all lovely. There’s something rather tranquil, serene and relaxing about the whole place. Particularly during summer! Back in the 1800’s, the bay must have been a sight for sore eyes for weary sailors who’d spent many months at sea and were ready for some rest and relaxation.
A Walk At Lake Tekapo
Lake Tekapo
The small town of Tekapo appears more of a location than a destination. It’s the type of place that you use as a base before going off to do other activities in the area each day. However, it must be said that the backdrop of the town is simply quite stunning and is reason alone to visit.
I arrived just after 1pm on a hot summer’s day. I parked at one end of the town and decided to spend the rest of the afternoon on foot. Leaving my vehicle, I wandered into town and ambled through the various shops and establishments that made up the village. It had all the usual restaurants that cater to the tourist trade, along with gift shops and other touristy outlets that provide scenic flights over the mountains, helicopter trips and stargazing tours at night. It was towards the end of this line of business that I realised I was getting hungry so I found a shop where I thought I would get some lunch.
The instant I stepped inside, I had a disastrous feeling that this might have been a mistake. Before I knew it I was deeply involved in a conversation (with someone I assumed was the proprietor) about the night sky and stars! Feeling committed to making a purchase, I surveyed the selections which appeared minimal to say the least. My options were either a very old and shrivelled up sausage roll or a sandwich made out of some type of meat product and what suspiciously looked like a salad. Neither of which I could be 100% sure on. I opted for the sandwich, hastily retreated, quickly decided that I didn’t really have the finances for an aeroplane flight over the Southern Alps and I took my lunch down to the lake.
The lake was a brilliant turquoise blue in the summer sun and I sat dangling my legs in the water which was really rather delicious, which is something that couldn’t be said for the sandwich that was meant to be my lunch. After two bites, the second of which I didn’t finish, I decided that I didn’t really want to risk a bout of food poisoning, and disposed of it!
Feeling hungry but not wanting to risk any more culinary surprises, I took in the mountain backdrop that surrounds the lake, which has to be said, really is quite stunning. On the horizon sat a mountain range shimmering in the summer heat as clouds slowly drifted by. I made my way along the lakefront stepping over stones, logs, and pushing through long grass that sat on the shore of the lake. Eventually, after much stumbling and cursing on rocks, I came to a bridge, which upon crossing, the Church of the Good Shepherd came into view. As far as churches go, this one has one of the more stunning locations you’re ever likely to see. It is often found in photographs that either involve the milky way, scenic mountain landscapes, or promotional wedding material that is distributed world wide.
I stopped on the bridge and took in the tranquil blue water that surrounded the church. It was a church that I always thought was older than it actually was. I’d earlier read it was built in 1935. I’d presumed there was an earlier church on that site and this one had simply been rebuilt. However, this is not the case. The original sketches were made in 1934 before the church was built in 1935 to commemorate early settlers. When construction started, the builders of the church were instructed that it must blend into the environment and that the Matagouri bushes surrounding the building were to remain. So, what is now created is a quite delightful church with one of the most impressive mountain scenes you’re likely to see.
Three Things I Discovered In Christchurch
Cashel Street In Christchurch
I spent three days in Christchurch filling in time and not having to be anywhere at all if I didn’t want to. So, I spent my time walking the city streets, as well as exploring the Port Hills and discovering suburbs like Lyttelton and Sumner. It was while walking through Christchurch’s city centre that I decided upon three things.
Firstly, I only have a very vague idea of what Christchurch looked like before the 2011 earthquake. I wish I could say I know the city well, but the truth is I haven’t really spent enough time in it to really have much knowledge of its keys features. Unless of course you count being able to find Hagley Park, the former Lancaster Park and the Avon River!
Secondly, I have completely no idea how’d you go about rebuilding a city. Honestly, where do you start? Is it similar to Monopoly where you divide the streets into colour-groups before you allow people to buy houses from the Bank?
Lastly, I really like cities that have trams! Or, to be more accurate, I really like the idea of trams! In Christchurch it used to be an extensive network with steam and horse trams operating from 1882 which were then replaced with electric trams that ran from 1905 to 1954. In 1995, the central city loop heritage tram was reopened in the central city as a tourist attraction.
The Criterion Hotel In Oamaru
The Criterion Hotel in Oamaru
Strolling through the streets of Oamaru, I came to the corner of Tyne and Harbour Street which is home to the Criterion Hotel. Its grand and elaborate Italianate façade showing the magnificence of the time it was built. Set on a prominent corner site and opening in 1877, it was described in the local paper as ‘the most ornamental of the recent additions to our street architecture.’ Whereas these days it’s described as ‘a true treasure and institution in Ōamaru’
The Edge of the World
Blackhead Beach
It was like I was standing on the edge of the world, staring out over a restless sea as dark, brooding clouds gathered overhead. The water was an intense shade of turquoise, calm at the shore but stirring further out. Small waves, gentle yet insistent, rolled toward the beach, their white crests gleaming under the dimming light. There was a weight in the air, a tension, as if the ocean itself was holding its breath, waiting.
The Haunting of Larnach’s Castle
Evening at Larnach’s Castle – buy
If you google haunted places in Aotearoa, on almost every list you’ll find Larnach’s Castle mentioned. The tale of William Larnach really is rather tragic and in case you don’t know the story, here’s a quick recap. Arriving in Dunedin at the time of the gold rush from the Australian gold fields as a banker, William Larnach quickly grew a reputation as a businessman. He amassed a fortune through business investments, went into politics, was involved in shipping, farming and landholdings. He had six children with his first wife Eliza Guise before she died at the age of 38. He then married Eliza’s half sister Mary Alleyne who after 5 years of marriage died at the age of 38. Larnach then married Constance de Bathe Brandon, a lady who was more than 20 years younger than him. Unfortunately Larnachs businesses started failing, his properties lost money, and his favourite daughter Kate died in her early 20s. As he started to spiral towards bankruptcy, he finally discovered his third wife was having an affair with his eldest son Donald. Soon after, he committed suicide in Parliament in Wellington via a gun in 1898.
So, when it comes to ghosts there are rumours the local spirits are his first wife Eliza, or his favourite daughter Kate, or even William Larnach himself. There are all sorts of stories of people witnessing supernatural activity however the most famous of the paranormal events to happen at the castle happened in 1994. A new play about the Larnach family called Castle of Lies was being premiered in the grand ballroom. While the guests came in and were seated, a ferocious gale came up across the peninsula and ripped through the grounds of the castle. As the evening went on and the wind got more intense, smoke from the fireplaces blew back down the chimneys sending fine white white soot right through the ballroom. That was followed by heavy rain and hail while the drapes inside went flying in every direction possible. Then, at the part in the play where William Larnach was about to kill himself, a flash of lightning shot through the room. So dramatic was the event, many of the guests mistook it for a very impressive stage effect.
The Lower Stuart Street Upgrade
Lower Stuart Street in Dunedin
For those of you that live in Dunedin, this is a reminder of what Lower Stuart Street looked like before the whole thing was dug up. Just in cases you forgot. The purpose of the massive hole that has been dug in the middle of the street is to replace historical pipes dating back as far as 1887. While this work was taking place, they unsurprisingly found old constructions like makeshift wooden steps that were put in place over a century ago and the foundations of a horse stables that used to occupy part of Moray Place. I think that’s just splendid.
The Great Southern Sky
Dusk over the Pacific Ocean
How is it possible for an ocean to look so moody, yet peaceful both at the same time? It’s an odd occurrence to see a wonderful hue of colours linger in the distance while at the same time wondering if the large dark clouds gathering in the distance are about to open with a torrent of rain. I’d been watching the clouds engulf the sky on the horizon, noticing at the same time the wind had picked up while the temperature dropped. Somewhere across the Pacific Ocean it was bound to be raining, yet here on the point looking out across the sea, the sky seemed to be in an erratic and impulsive mood.
A Revamped George Street
A revamped George Street
In an attempt to create a more people-friendly space where both business, shoppers, scooters, skateboarders (and whatever other mode of transport you wish to add) can coexist, the local city council spent over $100 million redeveloping the main street. I was pondering this as I walked along Dunedin’s George Street passing well-known places such as Knox Church. It was when I arrived at a crossing that I noticed a number of shops across the road that were empty and out of business. So, now everyone has a shiny new footpath to walk on as they pass empty shops that are boarded-up and covered in graffiti. At that moment I hoped that one-day eventually the buildings will once again be full of shops with businesses that are thriving.
The Royal Albert Hotel (aka The Bog)
The Royal Albert Hotel (aka The Albert Arms, aka The Bog)
I was in the inner city to complete a few errands and tasks that I had either been putting-off, avoiding or simply procrastinating over. They hadn’t been particularly time consuming or difficult, however I’d been telling myself ‘I’ll do that tomorrow’ and tomorrow had turned into several weeks! Now, having completed all the chores I had set, my time was free to fill in whatever way I pleased so I started with a walk along the main street. It was late afternoon and while one side of the street was still bathed in sunlight, the other was filled with ever growing shadows as the sun started to drop in the sky.
Tomahawk Beach & Ocean Grove
Dunedin’s eastern coastline at dusk.
It was one of those days that required an evening walk, simply because it was just too nice to not be outside. The route took me through a cemetery, a golf course, along a beach and up a road before coming across a view of Dunedin’s eastern coastline as dusk took hold. With caution, I pushed my way through the bush on the side of the road until I came to a clearing that gave an uninterrupted vantage point of Tomahawk Beach to the south. Watching the sun set, it wasn’t a bad way to end the day.