Those Red Telephone Boxes

Daily Photo – Those Red Telephone Boxes

I do love these red phone boxes. I stop and look at them every time I walk past. There used to be three of them, but I’ve no idea what happened to the third! There were once many more across the city until Telecom New Zealand took over the national telephone service and decided to modernise them by removing them completely.

Such was the public outcry that Telecom agreed to keep the red colour, however, they soon began replacing the old wooden boxes with new metal and plastic payphones. Personally, I think the former heads of Telecom should be made to track down and reinstall every single red phone box throughout the city.

While we’re at it, they should restore the train networks that once ran throughout the city and across the region. Further more, we could reverse the effects of quarrying at Blackhead, rebuild Cargill’s Castle, go back to firing a noonday cannon from Bell Hill, bring back the trams, re-establish all the student bars, revive the ferry steamer that used to run on Otago Harbour, and finally, rebuild every heritage building that’s been pulled down – brick by brick – starting with The Exchange Building that was demolished in the 1960s.

Then, Dunedin would be a truly wonderful city.

The Small Village of Aramoana

Daily Photo – The Small Village of Aramoana

I headed for the small village of Aramoana. It was here, in 1880, that Englishman Sir John Coode came up with a plan. To protect Otago Harbour’s entrance from silting, he decided to try and direct the tidal flow. His idea was simple: cleverly design two moles at the head of the harbour,one jutting out from Taiaroa Head and the other from Aramoana. However, due to some miscalculations with the budget, the Harbour Board only had the finances to complete the mole at Aramoana. Even then, it was built to only half the height of Sir John’s specifications, and by the 1920s storm damage had destroyed a large portion of it.

And speaking of Aramoana, here’s a fact for you. Eighty species of moths have been recorded on the Aramoana saltmarsh, and, further to that, the tidal flats there are the most important habitat for wading birds in Otago. While we’re on the subject of birds, when hoiho penguins (like the ones that live in the dunes near Keyhole Rock) go out to sea to feed, they travel up to fifteen kilometres from shore and down to depths of a hundred metres.

Yet we wouldn’t have all that if they’d gone ahead and built an aluminium smelter here in the mid-1970s. The idea, apparently, was to turn this quiet stretch of beach and dunes into an industrial complex of pipes, smoke, and humming machinery, a sort of “progress at any cost” scheme. Locals were, quite understandably, horrified. The thought of bulldozers trundling over sand where penguins nested didn’t exactly inspire confidence in the future of mankind. Protests were held, signs were painted, and Aramoana very nearly became a synonym for environmental heartbreak. Thank goodness Aramoana was saved.

Observation Point in Port Chalmers

Daily Photo – Observation Point in Port Chalmers

If there’s one thing to be discovered at Observation Point in Port Chalmers, it’s the view. I know that might sound a little obvious, but it’s the very view that the famous New Zealand artist Ralph Hotere drew inspiration from – and it’s amazing! It’s not hard to see why he loved it so much, or why he fought so fiercely to keep it.

In the 1970s, Hotere bought a four-room cottage near Observation Point and turned it into his first studio, transforming it quite a bit along the way. When a near-derelict stable next door came up for sale, he was desperate to get hold of it. Not only were the stables rumoured to have once housed Captain Robert Scott’s ponies on their way to Antarctica, but they also offered stunning views right down Otago Harbour – and they did not disappoint.

Once settled, Hotere produced some of his most famous works there and was content enough until the early 1990s, when Port Otago moved to reclaim the land for a port extension. Logging exports to Japan were booming, and to keep up with demand, the port needed to expand its operations, which meant they needed Hotere’s land. The problem was, he wasn’t about to move. What followed was a long, very public dispute between the artist, local authorities, and the community. Eventually, though, Hotere reluctantly agreed to sell, allowing the port’s expansion project to finally go ahead.

When he gave in, many who had supported him felt a way of disappointment. No one’s entirely sure what prompted his change of mind, perhaps he simply grew tired of the fight and decided to move on. Whatever the reason, when the dust settled, Hotere donated the proceeds from the sale to the Frances Hodgkins Fellowship Trust Fund. Today, the Hotere Garden Oputae stands on the site where his studio once was. It opened in 2005, marking the return of four of his sculptures to the hill that inspired him for so many years.

Sunset in Palmerston North

Daily Photo – Sunset in Palmerston North

I found my way to Palmerston North. My initial plan had been to head to Taranaki and New Plymouth however, cyclone warnings had popped up all over the North Island, meaning a change in direction was required. So, I ended up in Palmerston North. 

Surprisingly, I arrived under bright sunshine, something I hadn’t seen in some days on my trip through the North Island. After leaving a place called Waiōuru I drove through places called Taihape, Mangaweka, Cheltenham and Fielding, arriving in Palmerston North in the mid to late afternoon where I called in at a spot called ‘The Square’ and went for a walk around. Located in the very centre of the city, The Square is 17 hectares of land that features monuments, fountains, art work and picnic areas. At one end was a large Plaza while the other end featured the usual arrangements of shops that you might expect to find in a city centre. It was large with small pockets of people scattered around enjoying the warm, sunny day. For a long time, I couldn’t work out what it was, however something didn’t seem right. Then it struck me, that was exactly what was wrong. It was large and open but there simply wasn’t anyone there! In a larger city, it would be filled with people but here in Palmerston North it almost seemed too big. Almost as no one was really sure what to use it for. 

For a short time I walked the streets looking at the sites that the locals see everyday. Then, once that was done, I went to find some accommodation, a bite to eat and a drink. However, not necessarily in that order!

H&J Smith’s in Invercargill

Daily Photo – H&J Smith’s in Invercargill

How many department stores can claim to be loved? Not just used, or remembered fondly, but genuinely loved. Down in Invercargill, H&J Smith’s managed it. For more than a century, this grand old shop sat on the corner of Tay and Kelvin Streets like a friendly old uncle, a little formal, slightly out of fashion, but always there when you needed a decent raincoat or a set of sheets.

Founded in 1900 by siblings Helen and John Smith, it began as a drapery and somehow grew into a Southland institution. Generations of locals bought their school uniforms, wedding gifts, and first suits under its roof. It even had a tearoom called ‘The Copper Kettle’, where you could order a sandwich and feel like you’d stepped into 1957.

When the store finally closed its doors in 2023, after 123 years, it wasn’t just a sale that ended, it was a chapter. People stood on the footpath to say goodbye, as if farewelling an old friend who’d seen them through every season and in some ways, I guess they were!

Kaitoke Regional Park

Daily Photo – Kaitoke Regional Park

Kaitoke Regional Park is a beautiful spot – 2,860 hectares of native bush tucked into the foothills of the Tararua Ranges, with the Hutt River slicing a deep, dramatic gorge through the middle of it. Here, the forest feels ancient, with tall rimu and beech trees, tangles of rātā and fern with everything damp, green, and quietly humming with life.

Long before anyone was driving up here for a picnic or a stroll, local Māori used these valleys as travel routes between the Wairarapa and Wellington. That was, of course, until the Europeans turned up with saws and plans, cutting their way through much of it to open a road or two after 1856. Luckily, it only took about ninety years for someone to find the good sense to stop. From 1939 onwards, land was gradually bought back to protect the city’s water supply, and by the 1950s people were coming for swims instead of timber.

It officially became Kaitoke Regional Park in 1983, and today it’s exactly the sort of place you go to forget you live near a capital city – at least for a few minutes. Stand there long enough and you can still sense the history in the place, the feeling of movement threading its way through the bush.

The Chaotic Charm of Wellington

Daily Photo – The Chaotic Charm of Wellington

I hadn’t been to Wellington for several years and was curious to have a wander round. I was due to catch a train and with time on hand, I took the chance to stroll around, starting with the harbour. I’ve always had a soft spot for the waterfront, it has a kind of restless charm, that uneasy balance between sea and city. The place feels alive, in its own odd way, with joggers, tourists, and office workers weaving around each other like they’re part of some unrehearsed dance. The air smells of salt and coffee, and every so often the wind roars in from the hills to remind you who’s really in charge. The gulls squawk, the old steam crane remains standing from another era, and the water laps against the wharf. All around, the hum of Wellington carries on, the clink of cups, the murmur of conversation, the sigh of the wind, as if the whole city is chaotically going about its business.

Oamaru’s Heritage Precinct

Daily Photo – Oamaru’s Heritage Precinct

I’d driven up to Oamaru for the day and, as always, ended up wandering through the town’s remarkable heritage precinct. It’s one of those places that makes you feel as though you’ve stepped into another century, all creamy limestone facades, iron railings, and a faint whiff of coal smoke in the imagination.

Eventually, I found myself on Harbour Street, the heart of it all, and honestly, it was just lovely. The buildings stood shoulder to shoulder, each one a relic from the town’s glory days, now home to art galleries, antique shops, and cafés that sell tea in mismatched china.

But here’s what I don’t understand: why on earth is the street still open to traffic? It’s narrow, charming, and practically begging to be pedestrian-only. Nothing quite spoils the mood of admiring Victorian architecture like dodging SUVs and utes crawling past at two kilometres an hour. It made no sense at all, I pondered this for some time. Eventually giving up and headed for an Art Gallery then maybe a cup of coffee and biscuit.

The Clever Secret in the Stone Cottage Floor

Daily Photo – McDonald’s Stone Cottage

Lovingly restored over a number of years, the old two room stone building appeared in superb condition on the outside and I was delighted to find both rooms unlocked so visitors like myself could have a poke around. The first room I went into contained old leather and heavy dark metal harness gear hanging from the walls, not far from where these were framed pictures that told the story of the cottage. The most prominent feature was an old large, old fireplace, oven, or forge made of stone and built-in to the wall beneath the chimney in the corner of the room.

The second room was much the same, bare but for a few horse shoes hanging on the far wall from the door. The floor closest to the door was concrete and moving further back, the floor transitioned to packed earth that extended to the base of the walls. Thoughtfully, a hole had been cut in the wall so you could peer between rooms which proved to be extremely useful for taking photos. I walked back and forth between rooms for a while. I stood and looked around each room and one thing bothered me. For the life of me I couldn’t figure out how they’d managed to find the room to excavate underneath the to make room for an illegal whisky distillery that was rumoured to be hidden under the floorboards. Not only that, I wouldn’t know where to start! Either way, it was a very impressive effort, and rather clever.

One of the Last Stone Buildings Left on the Taieri

Daily Photo – McDonald’s Stone Cottage

I drove through heavy mid-morning rain. Here and there, the road dipped into large muddy puddles that I bounced in and out of, spraying water and loose gravel across the car as I did so. Berwick Forest is only a forty-minute drive from Dunedin, and I’d been there on an errand which also provided the opportunity to go on a longer drive, away from the usual motorways, streets, and footpaths that I frequent over the course of a typical week.

Earlier that morning I had passed through small rural settlements with names such as Outram, Woodside Glen, and Berwick. I had it in mind to take a different route home, just to keep things interesting and the mind active. The surrounding countryside gradually became more hilly and disappeared into thick white clouds. Large pools of water were forming into new streams that cut through paddocks and ran down across the road. It had been years since I’d driven this particular road, so I spent the time looking out the car window as I bounced along, identifying possible photographic subjects with a sense of joy and intrigue. Every so often being reminded that I was in charge of a 1,600 kg (1.6 tonnes) motor vehicle, as a stone ricocheted off the windscreen.

At some point, between splashes of water and sprays of stones, I came across one of those road signs that indicate places of interest or historical significance. This one read: “McDonald’s Historic Cottage 2 km.” I thought that sounded like a nice place to drive past, and it was.

I found it thanks to a large blue sign hanging from a fence that told me the wee stone cottage was built in 1860 by the McDonald family. The building was a nice place – small, quaint, but remarkably pleasant for a two-room stone cottage sitting on somebody’s front lawn. Its approximate area being 33 m² (I did the math). Once a two-room dairy and bakery, it also had an illegal whisky distillery hidden under the floorboards.

The Walter Taylor Bridge In Indooroopilly

So, I’ve got some thing new coming to my blog this Monday. Make sure you call in and check it out!

Daily Photo – The Walter Taylor Bridge in Indooroopilly

This is the Walter Taylor Bridge in Indooroopilly, one of Brisbane’s quirkiest landmarks. Opened in 1936, it’s not just a suspension bridge but once had people living inside its towers. For decades, the tollkeeper’s family called the northern pylon home, with laundry lines stretching over the traffic below.

Built by Walter Taylor using surplus Sydney Harbour Bridge cables, it was the longest span of its kind in Australia at the time. There was once even a ballroom in one tower. Practical, unusual, and full of character, it’s a true slice of Brisbane history.

Feeding Pigeons In St Stephen’s Green

Daily Photo – Feeding pigeons in St Stephen’s Green

Amongst the jigsaw puzzle streets of Dublin that twist and turn across the city, you’ll find St Stephen’s Green. Within St Stephen’s Green, I found a man called Daniel. The few items that he was carrying with him were carefully placed on a park bench while he chatted to anyone who would stop by to talk. He was polite and friendly and spoke in a gravelly tone that told of a less than comfortable life on the streets of Dublin. He spoke of having many favourite spots in the city centre but this spot was by far his favourite. Manly because of how peaceful it is and the calmness of the place. Then just as he spoke they arrived, pigeons. Lots and lots of pigeons.

It turns out that Daniel works for one of the homeless shelters in Dublin. Collecting money and donations, along with doing other ‘odds and ends’ that need to be done. But, what he really likes to do is feed the pigeons. As he threw seed out for them and gently poured it into the hands of strangers who stopped, the pigeons were quick to find the food source. In an instant, three to five pigeons were on heads, shoulders and arms, gently pecking. Suddenly, as quickly as they had arrived they were off into the sky. They swooped in a massive loop before landing in exactly the same spot and continuing their hunt for food.

Bobbing along in Aberdeen Harbour

The other day I mentioned Lightroom Presets and how useful they are. Well, today’s photo from Hong Kong was edited with a preset (I use them all the time) called ‘Don’t Jab With A Jabber’.


Daily Photo – Bobbing along in Aberdeen Harbour

I found myself bobbing along in one of Hong Kong’s famous sampan boats, weaving through the bustling waters of Aberdeen Harbour. Sampans are the traditional wooden boats that were once the backbone of Hong Kong’s fishing community, small, sturdy, and surprisingly nimble. These days, most of them are used to ferry curious visitors like mself around the harbour, giving us a glimpse of a slower, older way of life that’s still clinging on amid the glass and steel towers of the modern city.

I could tell you that the word ‘sampan’ comes from the Cantonese for ‘three planks,’ referring to the original flat-bottomed design. But honestly, I was less concerned with the etymology and more distracted by the colourful chaos of the waterfront with junk boats, houseboats, rusting barges, and the occasional super yacht all jostling for space like a very polite traffic jam.

The boat itself was decked out with lanterns and trinkets that swayed gently as we chugged along. There’s something oddly calming about the soft putter of the engine and the slow rhythm of the water slapping against the hull. I sat there, gazing out at the tower blocks and fishing boats, thinking that in a city known for its pace, this little pocket of calm felt like a small, stubborn act of resistance.

Walking The Victoria Bridge In Brisbane

I listen to all sorts of music while I take and edit photos, it kinda depends on my mood. If you wanna hear what’s currently near the top of my rotation, follow This Link to Spotify.


Daily Photo – Walking the Victoria Bridge in Brisbane

This is Victoria Bridge, one of Brisbane’s busiest crossings, lit up in vivid purples and blues for the night. It spans the Brisbane River, linking the South Bank cultural precinct to the CBD. The current version of the bridge (because there have been several over the years) was opened in 1969, which makes it over 50 years old now. A respectable age for a bridge.

To be honest, I had to double check the name. For some reason, I always confuse it with the Goodwill Bridge further downstream, which is a pedestrian-only crossing. The Victoria Bridge however, is the one where the buses thunder across in both directions and if you’re walking, you can sometimes feel the vibrations of the traffic humming through the concrete.

On this occasion, it wasn’t the traffic or the practical usefulness of it all that I was interested in, but the way the lights bounced off the water below, giving the river that surreal, glassy finish. If you’re a fan of city reflections (which I’ve discovered I am), it’s one of those spots that makes you stop for a second.

I could tell you more about the history of the bridge (it’s burned down, collapsed, and been rebuilt more than once), but instead I’ll just point out that right underneath this very spot is where the old horse-drawn trams used to cross, back when Brisbane was a much sleepier place.

Waiting For Buses Near Trinity College

So, I’ve decided to make a few changes to the layout of this here blog. If things seem to have changed dramatically next time you visit, it’s all part of a master plan. Hopefully (with fingers crossed🤞), the photos with appear larger on most devices with a change in size to the titles as well. I hope you enjoy.

Don’t forget you can click on the catergory names above each post to see more photos related to that place. For example, you can give it ago here it Dublin 🇮🇪.


Daily Photo – Waiting for buses near Trinity College

I stumbled across this photo while looking for something completely different. I took it one evening when I was heading across Dublin to Tara Street Station. From memory, I’d come from O’Connell Street via one of the bridges that cross the River Liffey when, in heavy traffic, I came across the Thomas Moore statue just as the evening sky was turning a lovely bluish-purple.

Queenstown to Glenorchy

Daily Photo – Queenstown to Glenorchy

The road to Glenorchy followed the eastern edge of Lake Wakatipu for 46 kilometers (28 miles). Two or three times I stopped in laybys and lookouts and went to the edge to stand hopefully in the murky gloom, knowing there was a lake out there, sure that I’d get blown into it at any moment. The wind and rain was everywhere – and coming from every possible direction. It seemed impossible to find a location that was both sheltered and safely away from the road side as campervans, tour buses and recreational vehicles hurriedly came to and from various places on the lake, looking decidedly unimpressed with the weather. Some time previously, I had bought an overpriced cup of coffee from one of those roadside caravans, so I sat in my car sipping coffee waiting for a break in the weather. The nearby mountains echoed in the moody atmosphere while storm clouds continued to roll in. I’d really been looking forward to the drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy. I sat in my car listening to the wind continuing to whip up the lake, only adding to the sense of drama. For the life of me, I couldn’t decide if I was happy I was driving into it or not!

The Road Home

Daily Photo – The Road Home

There’s something quietly revealing about standing alone on a long, empty gravel road, rain clouds drifting overhead and snow dusting the distant ranges. It’s the kind of place that either makes you want to turn back quickly or stay a while. When a cool wind lifted my hat and sent it tumbling, I took it as a sign. I sat by a nearby boundary fence and paused for a bit. Besides, I had a flat tyre to deal with, and the boot wasn’t going to unpack itself.

The Kai Kart

Daily Photo – The Kai Kart

Not far from the ferry terminal in Oban, you’ll find the Kai Kart, quietly serving some of the best fish and chips in the country. There’s nothing fancy, just a caravan cooking great food as the sizzle of fresh blue cod, and the smell of salt fill the air. In fact, according to some reviewers it’s arguably the best fish & chips in the country. Plan for a bit of a line, bring some patience, and a taste for Oban hospitality. Good food, simply done.

St Stephens Green in Dublin

Daily Photo – St Stephens Green in Dublin

This is St Stephens Green, a few days after Christmas on a chilly Dublin afternoon. It almost seems impossible to believe it wasn’t always the manicured Victorian park it is today.  In the 17th century, the area was used as land for grazing livestock. It then became a popular dueling spot during the 18th century as men would settle disputes with pistols at dawn in the park. Around this time, public executions including hangings were held in the area while in more recent times the park featured a statue of King George II that had stood since 1758. That was, until it was blown up the day after the coronation of George VI by Irish Republicans in 1937 

Swanston Street in Melbourne

Daily Photo – Ambling on Swanston Street in Melbourne

I like Melborune, partly because it is very walkable and easy to navigate thanks to all the bridges across the river, but mostly because of the trams. So, when I found myself with a day free of any planned activities, I spent the first part of the day riding trams to random locations I’d never been to before. Following that, I spent the rest of a very pleasant Melbourne day wandering its busy streets and narrow alleyways, admiring the Yarra River, its modern skyscrapers, historic architecture and bustling laneways.

It was while ambling along Swanston Street that I came across this lady who does the most colourful designs with vinyl records. I watched and chatted to her for about 10 minutes as she created new designs that would evolve right before your eyes.

Falls Curfew 1970

Here’s another photo from my phone, I’d forgotten all about it. I took this in Belfast while on a Black Taxi Tour through some of the city’s historic peace lines and murals. It was both a surreal and profound expereince.

Daily Photo – The Battle of the Falls

When I was growing up, I couldn’t tell you what all the troubles in Northern Island were about, all I knew was that there were two groups of people who were very angry with each other. This much I was certain about, mainly due to the fact that every so often a news item would appear on television which featured things being blown-up, people getting shot at and lots and lots of fighting. What started all this? Well, I just couldn’t say, but boy did they seem to dislike each other. 

So, a number of years later (quite a few actually), when I found myself in Belfast, I took the opportunity to do a Black Taxi Tour. I’d been reliably informed that it was a fascinating way to see many of the historic sites in Belfast that featured in the violent clashes between the British Army and the Provisional IRA. To which, I have to say, it was one of the most eye opening tours I’ve ever done. If you’re ever in Belfast, I’d advise doing a Black Taxi Tour, it really is a fascinating few hours. 

It was on this tour that we passed through the Falls district where the Falls Curfew took place. Until that time, I didn’t know what the The Falls Curfew or The Battle of the Falls was. Thus I discovered on a rainy day in Belfast that the Battle of the Falls was a violent clash in July 1970 in Belfast, Northern Ireland, between the British Army and the Provisional IRA in the nationalist Falls Road area. Triggered by an arms search, the army imposed a curfew and launched a large-scale operation, sparking intense gun battles. Four civilians were killed, and hundreds were injured. The incident deepened mistrust between the Catholic community and the British Army, escalating tensions during the early troubles.

Upper Hutt To Wellington By Train

Daily Photo – Wellington Train Station

The mid-morning train from Upper Hutt to Wellington had been unusually full for a Thursday. Inside, it felt like a moving collection of private lives, commuters heading into the city, caught in their own little worlds. Some read engrossed, others stared blankly out the window, as if in a trance, the passing hills and suburban streets passing in a blur. Some wore headphones, their expressions blank, detached from the soft clatter of the carriage.

Others appeared restless, they needed somewhere to go, something to do. For others, just movement, just purpose was enough. In this quiet time, nobody had to think too much-it was the in-between hour, the hush before the city’s noise.

When the train finally pulled into Wellington Station, the mood shifted. The doors opened and, like clockwork, everyone disembarked, filtering through the terminal and dissolving into the city, each carrying on with a day that had already quietly begun.

Shrine of Remembrance, Brisbane

Shrine of Remembrance, Brisbane 

After leaving the edge of the Brisbane River, I wandered up onto Ann Street, the pace of the city quickening around me. I had planned a short detour through King George Square, but as I reached it, I realised Brisbane’s Shrine of Remembrance was nearby. Drawn by curiosity, I entered ANZAC Square, where sunlight filtered through the trees and danced on the classic Greek revival columns that guard the eternal flame, flickering gently in the stillness. I lingered there, absorbing the atmosphere of the ANZAC spirit. Eventually, the heat of the day began to settle me. In search of shade and refreshment, I crossed the street and found solace in a cold beer at The Grand Central Hotel.

Driving Through The Haka Valley

The choice seemed a little confusing.Fence post in The Hakataramea Valley

I spent the hours pre and post sunrise chasing interesting spots in the Hakataramea Valley. Tucked away in the Waimate District, the Hakataramea Valley sits at the foot of Kirkliston range in the South Island of New Zealand and is a wonderful spot. The Haka is a glorious location to be in the mornings, they can be unbelievably cold and have a deafening silence that seems to echo throughout the valley as the light appears over the Campbell Hills, bringing a new day to the surrounding ranges.

10 Places to Visit in The Catlins

The Catlins River

Located in the southeastern corner of the South Island, the Catlins are a truly amazing spot. It features dramatic seascapes, dense native forests, and hidden waterfalls. It’s a place where winding roads lead to a breathtaking view or a windswept beach. Here is a non-definitive list of ten places to visit in The Catlins. 

Purakaunui Falls – one of New Zealand’s most iconic waterfalls. 

McLean Falls – yet another of New Zealand’s most iconic waterfalls.  

Cathedral Caves – experience an amazing bush walk before arriving at an incredible natural feature.

Nugget Point – an iconic location with dramatic views of the coastline.

Catlins River – follow the track that follows the delightful river. 

Tautuku Beach – walk to the end of the beach and spend the day exploring the peninsula which includes shipwrecks and an old whaling station. 

Slope Point – the southernmost point of the South Island. 

Curio Bay – visit the wonderful petrified forest.

Surf at Kaka Point or Purakaunui Bay – some of the best surfing spots with good quality surf and long swell periods.

Waipapa Point – walk to the lighthouse and see the beautiful vistas of the coastline.

Checkout other images from The Catlins, right here-right now!

The Devil’s Staircase

Lake Wakatipu at Kingston

To get to Kingston, at the southern tip of Lake Wakatipu, you have two options. However, it must be pointed out that it very much depends on where you’re coming from. If you’re coming from Southland, then you’ll pass through small towns such as Lumsden and Lowther before reaching the lakeside village of Kingston.

The other option (and possibly more interesting) is to turn off at Frankton on your way to Queenstown and pass through what is known as ‘The Devil’s Staircase’. Roughly 35 km south of Queenstown, it’s part of the drive between Queenstown and Te Anau and is considered a must-do leg of any Otago/Southland driving itinerary, both for the thrill of the drive and the spectacular views. Exactly how it got its name has become part of local folklore — in other words, no one really knows!

Given the nature of the road, one can only imagine what it must have been like to tackle the narrow, winding, and steep terrain, with sharp curves hugging cliffs above Lake Wakatipu, without the aid of a motor vehicle.

One story tells the tale of Captain Frederick Burwell and the Southland Hussars. Formed in the 1860s in response to fears of a Russian invasion, the cavalry corps were intent upon defending the Otago-Southland coast. At the time, there were many volunteer militias throughout New Zealand, so it wasn’t unusual for settlers to sign up to volunteer groups.

So, in 1885, when an April Review was held in Queenstown, up to 258 men from surrounding areas were due to gather. In Kingston, Captain Frederick Burwell needed to take his 30 men from the end of Lake Wakatipu up to the review assembly point in Queenstown. However, instead of going via boat, for some reason he decided to travel overland — a journey that took him and his men via the notorious Devil’s Staircase.

Travelling on horseback, they negotiated their way over small, narrow, and rugged tracks next to sheer vertical drops, before facing near-perpendicular rock faces in spots over 1,000 feet high. Once they reached the summit, a magnificent view of the lake came into view. Having passed the famous Staircase, the Kawarau River was crossed by punt, arriving in Queenstown late in the afternoon, where Captain Burwell and his men were warmly greeted, having successfully completed an arduous 40-mile journey.

Just why Captain Burwell opted for the deadly overland trip via the Devil’s Staircase instead of the easier ferry trip was never fully explained.

The Orokonui Ecosanctuary

The Orokonui Ecosanctuary

One morning, I found myself at Orokonui Ecosanctuary. The warmth of the sunlight spilled over tussock and flax and caught the curve of the visitor centre like it was a natural part of the landscape. The nearby ponds reflected the still morning sky as tui’s and bellbirds tuned up for their morning symphony. Somewhere out there, a takahē waddled through purposefully looking for a spot of breakfast. I hadn’t even started walking the tracks yet, and already, nature was making me grin like an idiot.

The Brown Trout Capital of the World

Gore – ‘the brown trout capital of the world’

Gore’s claim to fame is that of being the brown trout capital of the world and the location of the country’s prestigious Gold Guitar Awards for country music. I was on my way home from Invercargill and decided to stop for coffee and a walk around. The town was quite delightful in the afternoon sunshine with flower beds and hanging baskets lining the town’s main street. In fact, it was almost charming, a pleasant surprise.