Classic Coastal New Zealand

Daily Photo – Boats at Moeraki Fishing Village

I was ambling around the Moeraki Fishing Village, enjoying that quiet feeling you get when a place is perfectly happy without you. The sky was doing its best impression of a damp woolen blanket and the sea had settled into a gentle green that looked far more inviting than it felt. Two upturned boats rested on the concrete like old friends who had decided to lie down for a spell. The blue one was peeling like a sunburnt tourist, while the white one still looked hopeful that someone might flip it over and take it for a spin. Neither seemed in a hurry.

Out on the water a handful of boats bobbed about, each one appearing to be minding its own business. The ruins of an ancient jetty leaned into the shallows, holding itself together out of sheer habit. You could almost hear it sigh every time a wave nudged it. At the same time, nearby a local fish and chip shop was sending out hot parcels at a pace that suggested they were keeping the entire village fed. It felt like classic coastal New Zealand, simple and quietly wonderful.

Moeraki Village

Daily Photo – Moeraki Village

So on to Moeraki, the village rather than the boulders, that is. Moeraki Village is a small, quaint settlement at the end of a big bay on the South Island’s east coast, about 30 minutes south of Oamaru, give or take depending on traffic. And, may I say, a lot nicer than some round boulders sticking out of the sand that people climb all over. In case you haven’t guessed, I’m not really a fan of the Moeraki Boulders, unless I’m photographing them at sunrise when the tide is right – they just don’t hold that much appeal to me. The village, on the other hand, I do very much like. It’s quiet, slow, and everything moves at its own pace in a relaxed, unhurried sort of way. You can eat fish ’n’ chips by the bay, stroll along the beach, or, if you’re feeling adventurous, you can wander up to the lookout on the point like I did, which is situated on a Māori pā site, and look out across the expanse. It is quite a sight, I can tell you. In fact, the view is so good, people have built houses right in front of some of the viewing platforms, meaning you can happily gaze down onto the beach, across the bay, inspect people’s back gardens, or see if their guttering needs a clean.

On the occasion I was there, the whole village was being buffeted by an enthusiastic wind that had gathered momentum somewhere far out to sea and was making a spirited attempt to relocate the entire place inland and blow the local sea-gull population into low orbit. By the time I reached the lookout, the wind was howling so loudly I clung to the railing, half convinced I might take flight at any moment, and looked out across the vast Pacific, which, I have to admit, is rather impressive. Much like Moeraki in its own unique way.

Fleur’s Place Closes

Fleur’s Place in Moeraki

The other morning while enjoying a cup of coffee which I hoped would awaken my senses, I read that  Moeraki’s legendary seafood restaurant Fleur’s Place has permanently closed. Once considered one the best restaurants in the country, the famed rustic style restaurant gained international acclaim for specialising in fresh, local seafood. However, due to a number of reasons, the restaurant closed during the Covid 19 pandemic and has never reopened. Now, owner Fleur Sullivan has announced the doors are shut for good and the restaurant, located in the small North Otago village of Moeraki, will soon be for sale.

Moeraki Village

Moeraki Village

This is right beside Fleur’s Place in the small village of Moeraki. A place that is known for its outstanding seafood cuisine. However, due to the fact that I don’t have a strong stomach for shellfish, calamari, octopus, shrimp, squid, sole, flounder or any other food source that lives in the ocean, I won’t be eating there any time soon. By all accounts it’s very good with a delightful setting to boot.

Fleur’s Place For Naturally Good Food

Fleur’s Place in Moeraki

While I was in the seaside village of Moeraki I called past Fleur’s Place, a rustic style restaurant that specialises in fresh seafood. Unfortunately, it closed during the Covid 19 pandemic when the whole hospitality industry struggled to stay open. In fact, I don’t know if it ever reopened? 

Fleur’s Place gained a great reputation for fantastic sea food and regularly received rave reviews by visitors from all over the world, including Britain’s own popular TV chef Rick Stein. In fact, when British newspaper the Daily Mail offered to fly him anywhere in the world to eat, he chose Fleur’s Place! That’s impressive.

Moeraki Fishing Village

Moeraki Fishing Village

For no particular reason I detoured into the township of Moeraki, a small fishing village on the east coast of the South Island. It had been some time since I last visited the seaside port so after parking my car overlooking the beach, I went for a stroll. A few minutes later I found myself amongst boats, canoes, boat ramps, crayfish pots and other assorted items you generally find in a fishing village. There was also a nearby Fish and Chip shop that was doing a reasonable trade for a Saturday afternoon.