Finding myself on foot in central Christchurch, I started following the path of the Avon River as it twists and turns through central Christchurch. As I walked and followed the river, I discovered that there are useful information boards that tell you all sorts of interesting historical facts about not only the area, but the river itself. Such as, for early Māori the river was a rich source of food and a centre point for meeting and trading. I also discovered that while this trading and food gathering was happening, children who would play on the river bank. Which is why it was known to local Māori as Ōtākaro, meaning ‘place to play’.
Three Things I Discovered In Christchurch
I spent three days in Christchurch filling in time and not having to be anywhere at all if I didn’t want to. So, I spent my time walking the city streets, as well as exploring the Port Hills and discovering suburbs like Lyttelton and Sumner. It was while walking through Christchurch’s city centre that I decided upon three things.
Firstly, I only have a very vague idea of what Christchurch looked like before the 2011 earthquake. I wish I could say I know the city well, but the truth is I haven’t really spent enough time in it to really have much knowledge of its keys features. Unless of course you count being able to find Hagley Park, the former Lancaster Park and the Avon River!
Secondly, I have completely no idea how’d you go about rebuilding a city. Honestly, where do you start? Is it similar to Monopoly where you divide the streets into colour-groups before you allow people to buy houses from the Bank?
Lastly, I really like cities that have trams! Or, to be more accurate, I really like the idea of trams! In Christchurch it used to be an extensive network with steam and horse trams operating from 1882 which were then replaced with electric trams that ran from 1905 to 1954. In 1995, the central city loop heritage tram was reopened in the central city as a tourist attraction.
Niche Coffee + Eatery in Sumner
Niche Coffee + Eatery in Sumner
The next morning I made my way to a small cafe called Niche. I spotted it the previous afternoon while ambling around Sumner and had bookmarked it was worth having a closer look. Promoting itself as being nestled in Sumner and all about great brews, great eats and great times, after I had finished my coffee and breakfast I was left a very satisfied customer. Thus, having completed everything I wanted to do, I made my way back to my car, checked the fuel gauge and started the five hour journey home.
The Theatre Royal In Christchurch
The Theatre Royal in Christchurch
I was in Christchurch to attend a Jimmy Barnes concert, something I had been looking forward to for some time. The concert was being held at the Theatre Royal in the heart of Christchurch’s CBD. Arriving earlier than expected, I took the opportunity to go for a stroll around some of the recently developed streets that make up central Christchurch. For the next hour I made my way through Victoria Square, ambled next to the Avon River, visited Cathedral Square, dined on Thai food and generally tried to remember what the place looked like before the massive 2011 earthquake. Eventually I made my way back to the Theatre where the rest of the evening was spent enjoying the iconic Jimmy Barnes, which I have to say was quite outstanding. Made more impressive by the fact that at 68 years, a mere seven months ago he was in hospital for emergency open heart surgery. About half way through the concert, a group of people which seemed to involve four ladies and three men, forgot they weren’t in their own living room and proceeded to have a full on argument in the middle of the concert! It was rather entertaining to watch and it all started when three very drunk ladies started dancing in the middle of their row. The couple directly behind the three ladies took exception to this and requested them to sit down. A man accompanying the three ladies didn’t seem to appreciate this intervention and took matters into his own hands. The whole thing then collapsed into a mash of finger pointing, pushing and yelling until security arrived and everyone involved was escorted out of the arena. Afterwards, I considered finding a bar and having a beer but I was tired and in need of sleep so with the evening pressing on, I headed back to Sumner.
Afternoon in Sumner
I shuffled up from the beach and back along the Esplanade before making my way back to the main shopping district, only to find that most places had either closed or were in the process of ending business for the day. So I contented myself with weaving in and around the Sumner area. I passed the time wandering various streets peering in windows imagining what I would buy, looking at house prices and reading menus. The appeal of the whole area was easy to see. It wasn’t hard to imagine the place bustling with people in the late summer sun, dining al fresco, enjoying a bottle of red wine with a serving of linguine and clams or downing a cold beer while eating pizza in the heat of a summer evening. I was almost tempted to book accommodation for a summer stay right there and then, however not having the faintest idea whether I’d already made plans for summer and not wanting to have to pay another cancellation fee for double booking myself due to rash and impulsive decisions, I decided to keep walking. Plus, the time was getting on and I was due to head into Christchurch and the Theatre Royal.
Sumner
Having navigated my way out of Timaru and while driving through the town of Ashburton, I came across a mad lady in a Suzuki Swift. Finding myself in a line of traffic and after passing through a set of traffic lights, I came to a point where the lanes merged. It was there that I came across a bright yellow Suzuki Swift, driven by a little old lady who could hardly see over the steering wheel. Her idea of merging lanes was to simply drive straight and let the traffic around her scatter like pins in a bowling alley. Now, having arrived in Christchurch’s seaside suburb of Sumner, I dumped my belongings at my motel and immediately headed straight to Sumner beach to wander in the setting sun.
Robert Falcon Scott & Tom Crean
Robert Falcon Scott Statue in Christchurch
One of the things that I didn’t do in Ireland, that is now on my ‘next time I’m there list’, is visiting the Dingle Peninsula. I’d heard it’s nothing short of stunning and gorgeous, with thousands of years worth of history. It’s also the place that Irish explorer Tom Crean called home.
From the small village of Annascaul on the Dingle Peninsula, Tom Crean joined the Royal Navy at the age of 16. By the time he was 24, he found himself on British explorer Robert Falcon Scott’s ship Discovery in his failed attempt to reach the South Pole in 1901. When Scott returned to Antarctica for another attempt at the pole in 1910, Tom Crean once again invited along. In fact, Scott was so impressed with Crean on his initial attempt at the pole, he was one of the first people recruited for the return mission. So, when Scott’s party finally began their march towards the pole in Antarctica in November 1911, Crean was an important part of the polar team. As they marched south with a mix of tractors, dogs and horses, the party grew smaller and smaller as machines broke down, horses and dogs were shot and men were sent back to base camp. Eventually, when the final pole party of 5 was announced and Tom Crean wasn’t included, Scott wrote in his diary that Crean wept with disappointment at the prospect of having to turn back.
As Crean headed back to the Ross Island base, Scott and his companions pushed to the pole. They arrived on 17 January 1912, only to find that Norwegian Roald Amundsen had beaten them by nearly a month. Utterly devastated, Scott and his party started their long march home in a terrible state. Weak, hungry, low on rations and suffering from frostbite, the five men in Scott’s pole party desperately pushed on for home. The first to die was Edgar Evans followed by Lawrence Oats. On the 19th March the three remaining men of Henry Bowers, Edward Wilson and Robert Scott pitched a tent just 11 miles from the large One Ton Depot. Trapped by a blizzard with little food and even less fuel, the three men sat out the blizzard, they wouldn’t survive. When the tent was finally discovered eight months later, the positions of the bodies suggest Scott was the last to die. His final words written in his journal: For God’s sake look after our people.Tom Crean returned to the Antarctic a third time with Ernest Shackleton’s ill-fated Endurance Expedition in 1914. The Endurance became trapped in ice and the mission became one of survival. They hauled their gear (boat’s included) until the pack ice broke up, sailed to Elephant Island and then four men (including Shackleton and Crean) sailed on to South Georgia Island before trekking across the mountainous landscape to the whaling station at Stromness.
Years later, Crean returned to the Navy until he retired in 1920. In 1938, he became ill with a burst appendix which eventually took his life in July 1938. Today a statue of Tom Crean stands in his hometown of Annascaul, while Robert Falcon Scott is recognised and celebrated all over the world.
The Avon River In Christchurch
The Avon River in Christchurch
There are a great many things I’ve never wondered or thought about. Until recently, one of these was the meaning of the word ‘Avon’. I knew it was a popular name for a river, but it had never concerned me that it might actually mean something! My pondering about the word Avon took me down the intriguing rabbit hole of etymology. It seems that the name “Avon” is a Celtic word and survives from the Welsh word ‘afon’ meaning river. So, therefore we can say that Christchurch’s Avon River literally means ‘river river’.
Flour Power
Leaving Hagley Park, I crossed the Avon River and strolled along Rolleston Avenue before turning left onto Worcester Street. Passing the Christchurch Arts Centre while dodging trams, I continued until somehow met the Avon River again. From there, I found my way to Cathedral Square where I enjoyed a quiet moment or two taking in the various sculptures that are scattered around. One of which, located across from the Cathedral on the corner of Colombo and Hereford Street at the beginning of a pedestrian mall is a sculpture titled Flour Power by Regan Gentry. Gifted to the city in 2008, the steel structure stands an impressive 15 metres high and is kinda fun to stand under!
Christchurch
The other day I began to wonder what international visitors are told about New Zealand before they arrive. Needing an answer, I turned to the ever popular Lonely Planet publication and looked up Christchurch:
“Welcome to a vibrant city in transition, coping creatively with the aftermath of NZ’s second-worst natural disaster. Traditionally the most English of NZ cities, Christchurch’s heritage heart was all but hollowed out following the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes that left 186 people dead.”
https://www.lonelyplanet.com
Te Matatiki Toi Ora The Arts Centre
Te Matatiki Toi Ora
Badly damaged in the 2011 Christchurch earthquake, Te Matatiki Toi Ora (The Christchurch Arts Centre) has since undergone a massive restoration rebuild. Now, 13 years later the project is two thirds completed and being brought back to its former glory. That being a creative hub, artistic expression and entrepreneurship can thrive in Christchurch.
Bridge of Remembrance in Christchurch
Bridge of Remembrance In Christchurch
You would never know that the Bridge of Remembrance was once damaged in an earthquake. Located over the Avon River in Christchurch, it stands as a memorial to both World War I & II, along with the conflicts in Korea, Malaya, Borneo, and Vietnam. Structurally damaged in the February earthquake of 2011, when it was repaired, an 8 tonne beam was used to reinforce the arch and 27 metre piles were built so in any future earthquakes it rocks rather than twists.
The Little Fiddle In Christchurch
The Little Fiddle In Christchurch
I made my way through streets that looked vaguely familiar. Not having a great knowledge of Christchurch’s CBD, anything past the Avon River was really a mystery to me. Yet, occasionally I found a street or location that seemed recognisable. Colombo Street was one, Manchester Street was another and then of course there was Cathedral Square. The rest looked nothing like I remember it. But, that’s to be expected when you’re rebuilding a city!
I made my way along streets, down passage-ways and through alleys with a simply delightful gaze in my eye. It was like discovering a whole new city and I was very much enjoying myself. I walked past new buildings that seemed to feature a style of architecture called ‘jigsaw puzzle pieces that don’t fit’ and shops that either had a minimalist vibe or were still under construction.
Eventually, I came across a junction point for three laneways. Clearly I was approaching the food and beverage sector of the CBD as nearby there was an Italian Restaurant, a Mexican Bar, A place called ‘The Craft Embassy’ and one known as ‘The Little Fiddle’. It was this last one that caught my eye, for no other reason that it was bright red. It was covered in signs that read “Stout & Porter”, “Pedlers of fine Irish Whiskey, Beer and Wine” and “Try our hot and tasty fare.” It did look very enticing, but unfortunately I still had to navigate my way back to my car and negotiate my way through Christchurch traffic and I wasn’t too sure that alcohol would help the matter.
Te Pae Christchurch Convention Centre
Te Pae Christchurch Convention Centre – Buy
Finding myself with no place to be, and with a bit of time to spare, I went for an amble around Christchurch. It had been a good five years since I’d visited the city centre and it was with interest that I strolled the streets around Cathedral Square. One of the new buildings I found (although hard to miss) was Te Pae. Te Pae, literally meaning “gathering place” in te reo Māori, is the new Christchurch Convention Centre.
The Arts Centre in Christchurch
The Arts Centre in Christchurch – Buy
These days a section of Hereford Street, Worcester Boulevard and Rolleston Avenue in Christchurch is known as the The Arts Centre. However, back in 1877 when the first building was opened it was known as Canterbury University College. After that, more buildings were added for both Christchurch Boys and Christchurch Girls High Schools until the campus grew so large that the high schools moved and the University took over the entire site. By the 1950’s, the University had grown so large that the University started to make plans to move to a large site. The first shift happened in 1957 when the Fine Arts department relocated. The Engineering department followed in 1959 and by 1975 the entire University had relocated.
In 1978 the Arts Centre of Christchurch took over the ownership of the site which includes 22 buildings constructed in the Gothic Revival style.
Invercargill City Tramways, Tram No. 15
Invercargill Tramways No 15 – Buy
These days Tram No 15 spends its day rattling around Christchurch City carrying passengers around the CBD. However, it started life 14,526 kilometres away in the sheds of Philadelphia in 1921. Designed in the USA in 1915, once constructed, thousands of these trams were exported all over the world including nine that were imported into New Zealand. Of those nine, six went to Invercargill and three headed for New Plymouth. Commencing operations on the streets of Invercargill on 20 December 1921, it stayed in service for more than 30 years until 31 May 1952. Sold off to private buyers, Tram No 15 stayed in the wilderness until 2009 when Christchurch City Council went in search of Trams for the tramway extension fleet. Lovingly restored, Invercargill Tramways Tram No 15 now spends its days carrying visitors around Christchurch as they hop-on and off seeing the central city sights.
The Port Hills
The Port Hills – Buy
Somewhere on the way over the Port Hills, heading towards Lyttelton I stopped. Well, actually I stopped many times so it’s hard to recall the exact place. However, on the way the mist and clouds that were covering the Port Hills were constantly changing and shifting quite quickly so everytime I stopped it looked a little different. On this occasion it reminded me of a scene you see in the Scottish Highlands.
Lyttelton Harbour / Whakaraupō
Here’s a wee video I made showing you the before and after of today’s photo.
Daily Photo
Lyttelton Harbour / Whakaraupō – Buy
It wasn’t my intention to drive to Lyttelton on Banks Peninsula but then I often end up in places I don’t intend to be. I’d driven up into the Port Hills in Christchurch and had spent the previous few hours wandering some of the tracks in the area. Before heading back to Christchurch and my motel for some lunch, out of interest, I decided to continue on and see what was on the other side. Well, before you know it I’d driven half the way to Lyttelton. From there it only made sense to continue on and see the small port town.
Play Me
Christchurch Airport – Buy
I took this photo during an unscheduled eight hour stop in Christchurch. I was only flying from Dunedin to Wellington!
It all started with a noise that didn’t sound quite right. Clearly this is not something you want to be thinking having just taken off on an A320 Airbus heading to 30,000 feet. The next thing that happened was the captain and cabin crew informed us that there was a problem with the landing gear and our flight to Wellington would be making an unscheduled stop in Christchurch. As I sat there watching the coast and listening to a plane that seemed to be rattling more than a car I once owned.
The chaos all started with a series of announcements. All of them simple enough but when strung together created bedlam for a good hour at the Air New Zealand domestic check-in desk. The first announcement came as the plane parked outside the terminal in Christchurch. Hoping it would be a shortstop I was relatively pleased to hear that we would be transferred to a waiting plane, our luggage transferred and all we would have to do is wait for a boarding call. Clearly this meant I would have a few minutes to spare, so like a few other passengers I went in search of coffee.
Clutching my beverage, I spent the time in Relay’s Bookstore looking over the Top 50 reads. The No 1 ranked book was The Subtle Art Of Not Giving A F*ck however oddly it was also ranked as No 14. Another book titled Everything Is F*cked also had a double ranking of both 2 and 16. Similar titles were also placed at 3 and 5, 6 and 15, 9 and 20 while most of the numbers from 30 to 50 were empty. I wasn’t quite sure if these placings reflected the quality of the books or an employee’s incompetence when suddenly the next announcement was made.
Over the loudspeaker all the other passengers and myself were told that our flight to Wellington had now been cancelled and we would all have to collect our luggage and rebook. This started a stampede of passengers that is rarely seen. In an instant arms and legs went flying as people headed for the check-in desk. Carry on baggage was flung over shoulders, battle plans were made as families spilt up to collect luggage, while others blocked the escalator looking for loved ones. Having made it to the bottom of the stairs I was pleased to find myself near the front of the pack. I collected my luggage in record time and headed for the appointed counter at the far end of the terminal. Now I don’t want to brag but upon arrival I joined a queue of people that only had two people in front of me. Feeling chuffed I happily waited secure in the knowledge that I would soon be back in the air and off once more to Wellington.
Then, the third announcement came. We were now told to head over to the domestic check-in desk. I turned and looked in horror as my third place in the queue had now slipped to somewhere in the 50’s! Annoyed, I joined the line. The fourth announcement informed me that those travellers who had the Air NZ App would be automatically rebooked and now didn’t have to queue at all! Still feeling somewhat annoyed, I left the line and waited for my update. I waited and waited and waited. Half an hour later, no update had come through.
I head back to the Air NZ counter, making my way past all manner of travellers to inquire about my automatic rebooking. I approached an Air NZ staff member and proceeded to tell my story to which she informed me that I’d have to re-join the line. It was somewhere between the words ‘re-join’ and ‘line’ that my expression changed. This line that I was once third in, snaked off into the distance down the terminal. Feeling sorry for me, she took my details and after much typing printed out a boarding pass. My new flight was now scheduled to board in 7 hours!! Feeling somewhat dumb stuck I headed for a bar.
The Avon River In Christchurch
The Avon In Christchurch – Buy
Once I had spent some time exploring the Riverside Market and then later The Crossing near Manchester and Cashel Street, I made my way back to the Avon River. I have to admit it, but I do like the Avon River. It’s quite a lovely stroll through the centre of the city following the contours of the river as it gently ambles along.
The Crossing In Christchurch
Coffee Culture at The Crossing – Buy
Feeling both restless and hungry, I left the areas around Manchester and Cashel Street. As I edged back towards Cathedral Square, I became drawn to a walkway named Cashfields Lane. A narrow thoroughfare that’s closely surrounded by shops that opens to a retail and hospitality complex known as The Crossing. Ignoring the surrounding fashion outlets, my search for food took me past eatery’s such as Zeeks, Coffee Culture and Joyful Express before settling on the authentic Korean street food at The Chicken.
Riverside Market In Christchurch
Riverside Market – Buy
I couldn’t remember the last time I was in Christchurch. I’d driven through it plenty of times however I had no idea when I was last in the city centre. So, it was with some interest that I left my car on Park Terrace near Hagley Park, walked the short distance up Worcester Street until I reached the Avon River. Exactly what I was doing or where I was going, I wasn’t too sure however a short time later I found myself entering the Riverside Market. Opening in 2019, the Riverside Market overlooks the river and is filled with boutique retailers, restaurants, cafes & bars. It has 30 independent food outlets and 40 fresh food stalls covering 3500 square metres and attracts over 10,000 a day. It really is a wonderful place!
Christchurch’s Hagley Park In Spring
Hagley Park in Spring – Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery
I find myself reading a lot of poetry in spring. Personally, I think poetry lends itself very well to photography. There’s a closeness in the imagery that words create and what can be captured through the lens of the camera.
This week I’ve been reading several works by the bonnie scot Robbie Burns when I came across this line “Now spring has clad the grove in green.” It brought to mind this photo of Hagley Park in Christchurch. My friend and I were there to see a Bob Dylan concert and with some time to fill in the afternoon, we went exploring on foot before calling in to a local bar for a pre concert drink.