And so it was that on a Monday morning I found myself at the beach, watching the last day of summer begin. Now, I don’t want to say that I always start March feeling cheated, it’s just that I always exspect so much more out of a Dunedin summer. Every year December rolls around and my head becomes filled with visions of deliciously hot, warm, cloudless days that stretch on well to early March. The reality is much different. Usually I’m buying firewood by the second week in January and then refusing to use it on principle.
So, with time almost up on summer and with less than twenty four hours before autumn officially started, the beach seemed an appropriate place to be. It was a warm Dunedin morning. I watched the sun appear from beyond the horizon and rise into the sky. It also seemed ironic that the last day of summer was going to be warm and fine, given that so many days over the last three months had been overcast.
This is more or less where I spent an evening on Smaills Beach. It had been a long summer’s day and the last rays of the sun were slipping below the horizon. The tide had revealed rocks all covered in green seaweed as the yellow and orange sky in the distance seemed to dither for a minute or two. Somehow in that second everything seemed a lot closer yet further away than ever before.
I had a strange hour exploring the Dunedin Botanical Gardens. There was a family putting on an impromptu acapella concert near the duck pond. The children were singing classic hits such as ‘I want more food for the ducks’ along with ‘he took all mine’ and finally the classic ‘why can’t we ride the train.’ A lady (who I assumed was the mother) was adding backing vocals based around a repeatedly chorus line of ‘I can’t take you anywhere’ while a man (who I assumed was the father) was playing the baseline of ‘this was your stupid idea.’ I had hoped the children would add to the drama by actually performing in the duck pond, however they unfortunately set off for the car park instead. Just then a congregation of students heavily armed with alcohol made their way from one entrance to the other. As they seemed to be heading in the same direction as the aforementioned family, I wondered if Dad was tempted to join them, or the mother for that matter!
I went for a long walk with no real agenda, other than to see this spot. The day was warm, the sun was out, the water was still and I had no time frame or schedule for the day, other than to be close to a beer at around 4pm. As it was only just a little after 1pm, I had many hours in front of me and very little plans. I had no idea where I was going, but I’d figure it out somehow.
The way I see it, there are many reasons to love Dunedin, and this is one of them. The town belt and scenic reserves. There’s also a lovely metaphor about life and choosing directions in this image which is what drew me to this location. That, and the fact I like all the textures.
It was only after a little way along the beach that I realised I was missing something. Although this feeling isn’t new to me, generally it involves wondering if I’ve turned the oven off or some other appliance as I’m leaving the city on holiday. This is then followed by a quick phone call to a relative or friend with a desperate plea to ‘please headover home and check the place isn’t a pile of ash!’ It then struck me what I was missing, my tripod! As I turned and headed back to the car to fetch the item I allowed myself a moment of reflection…‘well, at least I didn’t lose it this time’ I reasoned.
I stood watching the surrounding plant life gently swaying in the indecisive wind. One moment it felt like a hurricane had launched itself at me, threatening to push me down the rather steep bank I was beside. Then, suddenly the wind would drop away and reveal patches of still and calm that would cause me to lower my guard. Just when I would start to relax, another typhoon like gale would hit me. But then again, I was standing on the highest point in the city while a high wind warning had been issued.
I had the idea to venture a lot further down the harbour than I eventually did. I had overslept and so by the time I was out the front door and driving in the predawn darkness, I knew I would be late. Aramoana had been my intended destination however I had quickly given up all hope of getting there in time for a sunrise. Instead, I turned my attention to a well known overbridge in Ravensbourne where the morning colours in the sky were lingering long enough to make the morning trip worthwhile.
We crossed the harbour and headed back to the hangar via a fly over the heart of the city, the Octagon. It looked quiet with a handful of cars scattered about, buildings of all ages stood at strange angles to accommodate the geographical shape that makes up the area. Ever since I was a child, I had always wanted to see the place from such a view, and now I had. You could see all the big main features of the city like the Town Hall, The Catherdral, The Central Library, along with all the other smaller buildings that were tucked into narrow alleyways. Everything was exactly the way that it seemed. And that was just fine with me.
Further on, having crossed the Otago Peninsula we started to track the coastline back towards Macandrew Bay. The whole place looked stunningly pretty with long views down to the blue sea, bordered with majestic shades of green, separated only by a road that snaked its way along the base of the land by the sea shore. Perhaps it was the time of day, the weather or the sense of experiencing the world from a different view but it seemed perfect. The land rolling down to the water in splendid hues of colour. I could have looked at it for hours.
Finding myself looking over the Otago Peninsula and back up Otago Harbour I was astounded by the length and shape of the Harbour, but then again, I always am. Many years ago when I had returned to Dunedin after living overseas, one of the most enjoyable parts of my day was being able to drive around the harbour and the peninsula. I remember reading somewhere that it’s’ like a beckoning finger lying between the Pacific Ocean and the harbour. I prefer to think of Robbie Burns’ ‘My heart’s in the Highlands, wherever I go.’
Among the many hundreds of things that have come a long way in Dunedin since my arrival to the city in November 1978, unfortunately my golf game isn’t one of them. If we could drain the ocean around Lawyers Head, (particularly on the left hand side from the ninth tee) I’m sure most of the golf balls found would in fact be mine!
By the time we reached the Hot Salt Water Pool, a public facility perched on the end of a rocky point sitting below a line of cliffs, I was quite amazed. There were all sorts of patterns and textures, shapes and colours, some natural features and some made by man. Some of the features showed the wear and tear of time while other features like the seaweed growing off the rocks and the contrasting blues of the water made the whole area sparkle in a rugged, less than perfect kind of way.
And so on to St Clair we flew. We arrived at around nine thirty in the morning in beautiful sunshine. The day had broken fine and the streets were quiet, the occasional car leisurely making its way through the placid suburban streets that backed onto the beach. I’d spent most of my life living in Dunedin and thought I knew it reasonably well, but a city can take on a whole new complexion when viewed from the air.
Late last month before autumn officially ended and winter began, I went on one last search for some autumn colour. There’s still some last pockets around the city however in general the trees are pretty well bare now. Fortunately around Queens Garden in Dunedin I found a few trees the still maintained a hint of the autumn colour palette. #lovindunners#majesticdunedin#johncaswellnz
Is Tyler Stent a local Dunedin artist? I always assumed he was however it recently occurred to me that this is a piece of information I should know for certain. I know he has had art on show at the The Artists Room on Dowling Street and you can find more of his work on Carroll Street (Ralph Hotere mural) and at the cafe the Morning Magpie on Stuart Street. Which is your favourite?
Any guesses what year the Jetty St overbridge was built? When it was opened it replaced the old Jetty to Vogel Street overbridge that spanned the train yards here in Dunedin. The original bridge was made of Port Chalmers bluestone and was built between 1883 and 1886 for horses and carts then later vehicles like cars and tracks. It was eventually demolished after the new Jetty St bridge was built. So, what year was that ….. > > > ….. the year was 1977, #lovindunners#majesticdunedin#johncaswellnz
@johncaswellnz – Eternity in ripples of reflection. Wandering finding curious and creative views as I amble down each charter’d street. #lovindunners#majesticdunedin#johncaswellnz
This image is all about the ripples and the reflections in the water. What I really liked was the way the wharf and boat were reflected in the water in such a a peaceful way.
@johncaswellnz – And thus I asked the former. Wandering finding curious and creative views as I amble down each charter’d street. #lovindunners#majesticdunedin#johncaswellnz
This is another of Dunedin’s lovely older buildings. Does anyone know it’s history?
@johncaswellnz – As does drop and shadows remain Wandering finding curious and creative views as I amble down each charter’d street.
I was chasing shadows across the Octagon earlier today as the sun dropped from sight. I originally started on lower Stuart Street and tracked the light and shadows as they shifted before ending with this wee scene. #lovindunners#majesticdunedin#johncaswellnz
@johncaswellnz – Because It’s So Wandering finding curious and creative views as I amble down each charter’d street.
Did you know that this building at the time of construction was the tallest in the southern hemisphere. Who would have thought in Dunedin’s quiet little Bond Street. It’s recently had beautiful golden foliage outside it throughout autumn.
@johncaswellnz – In the autumn, through the leaves. Wandering finding curious and creative views as I amble down each charter’d street.
This is a visit to my autumn colour palette. It’s based on warm yellow undertones mixed with oranges, reds, ochre and olive colours. It also discovered mixes wonderfully well with textures.
Day 5 – I’d spent the previous night enjoying the sights and sounds of Courtney Place. Earlier in the day I had enjoyed a delicious and wonderful lunch at Mr Go’s. Having been to Mr Go’s on previous trips, and with less than 24 hours left in the city, I simply had to enjoy the Asian Fusion Restaurant before I left. My taste buds had drawn me to the mouth wateringly good Pork Belly Bao Bun and Pork Dumplings. Now, many hours later I found myself sitting in a bar called the Welsh Dragon with my stomach hungry for food. Approaching the Welsh Dragon, I had initially thought it was a deserted building in the middle of a median strip. But, it turned out to be an old historic public toilet that has been converted into possibly the most laid back and down to earth pub in the whole CBD. There were no fancy flashing lights, drums hanging from the ceiling or large neon lights that were accompanied with extremely loud music. It was a friendly, hospitable pub, no more than that. I felt at home instantly.
Day 4 – It’s interesting in Aotearoa that so much of our national history seems to start with European Explorers. For example, Able Tasman is credited with the discovery of New Zealand in 1642. The story goes that the good Mr Tasman, having sailed for nearly 140 days, and upon sighting the West Coast of the South Island, he decided he couldn’t really be bothered stopping and kept sailing. Our history books then jump to Captain Cook’s navigation of New Zealand in 1769. From there, we’re told about European encounters with Māori until the lead-up to the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840.
Until more recent times, it appears that everyone forgot that Polynesian migration and settlement in Aotearoa occurred between 1250 – 1300. A good 350 years before Able Tasman decided he was feeling adventurous and set sail and around 450 years before Captain Cook landed in Poverty Bay. Having spent the previous day wandering around Matiu Island, I decided some further personal education of Māori settlement was in order.
Day 3 – Matiu/Somes Island’s claim to fame is wide and varied. Lying in Wellington Harbour it’s history dates back to the early Polynesian Explorer Kupe, and since then it has been a Maori Pa site, a quarantine station, an internment camp, a military defensive position and is now a wildlife reserve and sanctuary looked after by the Department of Conservation.
My plan for the day was to ferry across the harbour to Days Bay and an area called Eastbourne. I had purchased my ticket from a young lady who was without a doubt one of the most friendly, helpful and polite receptionist I’ve ever met. Upon my inquiry for a return ticket across the harbour she politely informed me that the next ferry was actually stopping at Matiu/Somes Island which apparently wasn’t very big ‘but definitely worth a visit’. ‘Well, why not I said’. So, after a short but enjoyable board ride I found myself standing on an island in the middle of Wellington Harbour.
Day 2 – I awoke in the morning feeling refreshed and very well rested. The previous day I’d spent 90 minutes flying and 480 minutes at Christchurch Airport so now I was more than ready for a walk and something to eat.
I ate breakfast at a very retro place called Midnight Espresso. After ordering, I sat in the window watching rain fall and Cuba Street slowly come to life, passing the time marveling at how maple syrup instantly improves bacon and banana pancakes. When finally my stomach was full, and my plate empty, I set off into the sleepy Wellington streets.
Day 1 continued – It all started with a noise that didn’t sound quite right. Clearly this is not something you want to be thinking having just taken off on an A320 Airbus heading to 30,000 feet. The next thing that happen was the captain and cabin crew informed us that there was a problem with the landing gear and our flight to Wellington would be making an unscheduled stop in Christchurch. As I sat there watching the coast and listening to a plane that seemed to be rattling more than a car I once owned, two thoughts crossed my mind. Firstly, it was moments like this that you wish Harrison Ford or Bruce Willis are on the plane. Secondly, having watched Mayday, I was confident I knew what to do.
Day 1 – I like Wellington, I think it’s the waterfront that grabs me the most. Whenever I’m in there I always make a point of having at least one wander along and around the harbour area. You see, I always find myself feeling a little bit jealous that Dunedin hasn’t made the most of its own harbour area. They say you can’t beat Wellington on a good day, and this certainly is true. When the weather is fine, and the wind is calm it’s one of my favourite places to amble. There’s always a pop-up store or two to enjoy, various markets and a wide variety of funky art installations to capture the imagination. Of all the art installations, my personal favorite is Max Patte’s statute ‘Solace In The Wind’.
I’ve photographed the Steeples Of First Church before. Usually it’s in the early morning or late in the evening. However, I’ve been meaning to taken a day time image of First Church for a while. It’s one of those land mark locations here in Dunedin that’s an important part of the city. It’s primary congregation was the Scottish Free Church settlers who first landed in Dunedin in the 1840’s. Plus, it’s got an awesome gothic feel to it. There’s little wonder it’s is regarded as one of the most impressive nineteenth-century churches in New Zealand.
… from a Small City. My daily musings from Ōtepoti to get you inspired. Read the blog, view the photos, embrace the creativity.
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The last day of summer– Buy or view the Ōtepoti | Dunedin gallery
