#dailyat6am, #fromtheroad, Owaka, Travels in small-town New Zealand, Wild Horses

Inn Street, Owaka

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Daily Photo – Inn Street, Owaka

Question: What happened to the Owaka gunpowder factory? 

Answer: it blew up! 

Back in the mid to late 1800s, the Owaka region had become a popular spot. This was mainly  thanks to the whaling and sealing industries, which the Europeans had discovered provided rather useful oil and fur. Once that industry died away, attention quickly turned to the surrounding native forests and a sawmilling industry was established to supply timber to the growing settlement of Dunedin. By the 1870s and 1880s, the farming trade was on the rise and more bush was cleared, meaning the town of Owaka became the hub for supplies, trade, and services in the district. As the population grew, services were added like a post office in 1867, a telegraph office arrived in 1879, a bank in 1880 and a gunpowder factory by 1880 – I kid you not! 

These days, a gunpowder factory in the small settlement of Owaka seems quite absurd, but when put into context it is actually rather clever. You see, the factory supplied gunpowder to the timber trade, who used it to split the wood, which was then shipped off to other centres. 

The factory came to life around 1880 when Englishman John Mackley and a Swedish-born chemist C.G.V. Leijon founded Mackley and Leijon’s Owake Mills Tower Proof Gunpowder – and doesn’t that name have a ring to it! The pair were quickly successful in the new enterprise, gaining a medal at the New Zealand International Exhibition in Christchurch in 1882. With the product proving popular throughout the region, they located their factory near the Owaka River (about 1.5km from the current town centre), so a log dam could provide water to drive the factory’s grinder. This then processed Hinahina Wood which was used to create charcoal, one of the main ingredients of gunpowder when mixed with sulfur and saltpetre. The powder was then sent to the milling industry and exported around the region for other uses. That was, until the factory exploded – on three separate occasions none the less, until its closure in 1884. The final blast was so impressive that it completely destroyed the factory and was heard almost 40 kilometers away in the neighboring town of Kaitangata. The factory wasn’t rebuilt, thus ending the Mackley and Leijon’s Owake Mills Tower Proof Gunpowder business.

Owaka, Purakaunui Falls, Purakaunui River, The Catlins, Wild Horses

Waterfalls, Walks & The Catlins

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The Purakanui Falls

From Nugget Point I drove 37 kilometres southwest to Purakaunui Falls. A trip that took roughly 40 minutes and another 10 minutes of walking along a short, but well maintained bush track that terminated at the iconic falls. Located on the Purakanui River, the falls cascade over three tiers, creating a stunning, wide and spectacular waterfall that stands over 20 metres high. Adding to the charm is the surrounding lush native podocarp forest that holds its own tranquil beauty, creating a popular tourist destination for travelers exploring the wondrous natural beauty of The Catlins.

Aotearoa, Owaka, The Catlins, Travel, Wild Horses

Tunnel Hill Near Owaka

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Tunnel Hill railway at McDonald’s Saddle

I had spent the day walking the Catlins River Track near Tawanui in the Owaka Valley and by the time I arrived back at my car, it was mid afternoon. Leaving Tawanui, I arrived in Owaka where I stopped for a bite to eat before continuing on to Tunnel Hill, the location of a disused 250 m long railway tunnel. Built between 1879 and 1915, the Catlins River Branch railway formed part of New Zealand’s national rail network which was constructed to provide access to the local timber industries. The tunnel was finished in 1896.

Aotearoa, Owaka, The Catlins, Travel, Wild Horses

Tunnel Hill Historic Railway

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Tunnel Hill railway at McDonald’s Saddle

Tunnels are amazing. Whenever I see one, I can never walk or drive past without stopping to go inside to investigate. On this occasion, I was heading for Balclutha having recently left the small town of Owaka. I had spent the day walking the Catlins River Track near Tawanui in the Owaka Valley and by the time I arrived back at my car, it was mid afternoon. Leaving Tawanui, I arrived in Owaka where I stopped for a bite to eat before continuing on to Tunnel Hill, the location of a disused 250 m long railway tunnel. Built between 1879 and 1915, the Catlins River Branch railway formed part of New Zealand’s national rail network which was constructed to provide access to the local timber industries. The tunnel was finished in 1896.

Aotearoa, Owaka, South Otago, The Catlins, Travel

Owaka

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Cornish Piano in the Owaka Museum

Here’s what I can tell you about this piano (organ) which I discovered in the Owaka Museum. The antique organ is carved and turned in wood and finished with red fabric along the front while the keys are constructed of wood with white plastic and ebony. Made by the Cornish Piano & Organ company, the business was established in Washington, New Jersey in 1879. Once production started, the reputation of the company quickly grew and it was known for producing products with excellent craftsmanship.  So popular were the pianos and organs, by the 1890’s, the Cornish company was producing over 10,000 instruments a year, shipping them all over the world. 

Unfortunately, in 1922 a devastating fire ripped through the Cornish company, bruning the factory to the ground. The company was never rebuilt, instead replaced over time by a gas station and later a food store. These days, the pianos and organs made by the company can be found all over the world, including this one in the Owaka museum. 

Owaka, Purakaunui Falls, The Catlins

The Purakaunui Falls

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The Purakaunui Falls – Buy 

Heading back to Dunedin, I decided to detour back through the Catlins and stop off at Purakaunui Falls. The falls have long been an iconic image of the Catlins and have appeared on everything from book covers to stamps and can be found south of Owaka, within the Purakaunui Scenic Reserve. 

The walk to the falls was short but delightful as the track wound its way through the podocarp and beech forest, accompanied by the Purakaunui River. The falls themselves are an impressive 20 metres high as the river cascades over three tiers of rock before flowing through the Catlins and out into Purakaunui Bay.