The thing about winter is that the daylight hours are shorter. Cold weather I can handle, however what I find difficult to accept is the lack of daylight. Every winter, there is always a point when I realise I’ve become something akin to mole. For me, it’s just been and so when Saturday arrived, I was delighted with the fact that it was daylight and I wasn’t at work! In celebration, I spent the first few hours familiarising myself with what the house looked like in natural light before heading out into the garden. Later, with the day sunny and still with all my holdhouse chores taken care of, I made up my mind to venture down to the beach. So, with my camera in hand, I headed out the door into a warm Saturday afternoon.
Because I strayed from my intended path, I ended up in the tranquillity of Lan Yuan, Dunedin Chinese Garden. The gardens were quiet with the only other visitors being two men playing chess in the tearooms. It really was peaceful and serene. Created with the support of the Shanghai Municipal Government, the gardens are New Zealand’s only authentic Chinese Garden and when it was opened, one of only three outside China.
Back in March, on Saturday afternoon when I didn’t have many pressing matters to fill my time, I went in search of waterfalls. Since I knew of several located along the walking tracks in the Ross Creek Reserve, I went for a look. Located in North Dunedin, the reservoir was opened in 1867 as the Royal Albert Reservoir, but the name did prove too popular with locals and was changed to the Ross Creek Reservoir. Named after Archibald Hilson Ross, who was Mayor of Dunedin from 1880-1881.
I watched the incoming tide for a few minutes, turned and headed for the far opposite end of the Esplanade. The whole area was quiet in the fading light as the street lights started to take hold. Reaching the end of the Esplanade by the Salt Water Pool, I paused beside a cafe that must have closed several hours ago. Once again I stood and watched the tide roll in, breaking against the rocks before receding out into the backwash. Every so often patches of sand became exposed, revealing leftover seaweed and driftwood that would shift and move with the tide. I took a moment to look out across the ocean. As the light had continued to fade, the sea had taken on a moody grey-blue complexion. Suddenly to my left the lights of the Hotel St Clair came on and drew my attention back to the Esplanade. In the blue hour of evening, I walked in the salty sea air as darkness took hold.
Given the nature of winter, with the short hours of sunshine and temperatures that sit in single digits, when the sun comes out it’s best to take advantage of it. So, a short while ago once the day had started to warm-up, I went for a stroll in the Dunedin Botanical Gardens. Exactly what I was looking for, I’m not really sure. However, I was happy wandering around, avoiding ducks and the little children who were chasing them with handfuls of food. What I couldn’t figure out was who was more scared, the ducks or the children!
The other week, while the weather was calm and pleasant I spent a few evenings exploring the beach. On this occasion, the evening was warm as dusk took hold and colours from the setting sun lingered in the sky before disappearing from sight. In fact, the weather was so warm and settled that blossoms started appearing on trees around Dunedin and the MetService had to remind locals that ‘We’re not out of winter just yet.’ A few days later, snow appeared in the forecast!
The Sandymount Lookout to Allans Beach and Mt Charles
The viewing point for Lovers Leap and the Chasm on the Sandymount Track really was spectacular. That was, until the land became unstable and they removed the viewing platform due to fears it might collapse. Considering it looked out over a gorge that fills with water, a stunning natural arch created by centuries of relentless wave movement and is surrounded by dramatic cliffs, it was probably a rather wise idea.
So, the Department of Conservation built a new viewing platform looking out to the northeast. Now visitors get a stunning vista looking out over Allans Beach, Hoopers Inlet, Mt Charles and inland to Harbour Cone. I have to admit, it is possibly a better view than the old one at Lovers Leap and the Chasm.
On a lovely bright winter’s morning, I was walking along the Karetai Track between Karetai Road and Smaills Beach when I came across a dozen or so empty beer bottles scattered in the long grass near a stone wall, next to the path. I’m sorry, but this is a scene we must examine for a moment. First of all, not only had they left the bottles but also the box, and judging by its condition it couldn’t have been sitting there more than a few days. The very least the owners might have done is put them back in the box! Secondly, to get the beer to its current location, it needed to be carried from the car park, a distance of some 50 metres. Either that or they lugged the thing up a very steep hill from the beach, and this seemed unlikely. If they (whoever they are?) went to all the trouble of carrying the beer to my present spot, I would have thought they could have taken it away with them. So, my question is this. What kind of person carries a box of beer, 50 metres along a public walking track, scatters all the empties and their rubbish round and simply disappears. Clearly my expectations of some sections of society are far too high!
Having surveyed the scene, and it was a lovely spot to take in the view, I decided there was only one course of action available. I walked back to my car, collected a reusable shopping bag and proceeded to gather up all the empty bottles and took them with me. Leaving the path a little tidier for the next person.
The beach was still and calm as I looked out over the ocean. The sky was an exquisite blend of deep blues and purples, with streaks of orange and yellow near the horizon where the sun was first appearing. The reflections of the colourful sky on the wet sand created a mesmerising effect. To my left were stairs that led up to the Esplanade, illuminated by the warm glow of the morning light. In the distance, lights started to appear as people awoke, adding to the tranquil and picturesque scene.
With wind rocketing down the harbour and dark, grey skies only adding to the already cool wind that was dropping the temperature to a chilly 5 or 6 degrees, I pointed my car in the direction of Port Chalmers. Upon arrival, I took a short detour to an area known as Back Beach and the Peninsula Road to get a view of Goat and Quarantine Islands. These days, Goat and Quarantine Islands are designated as scenic reservesand places of national significance. However, once upon a time both Quarantine and Goat Islands served as quarantine stations for Otago from 1863 until 1924. When ships arrived in Otago harbour, passengers with infectious diseases were quarantined for various periods of time.
I’ve mentioned the Dunedin Gasworks Museum in South Dunedin previously. Along with the fact that it is one of only three known preserved gaswork museums in the world, making it a place of significant heritage. Operating from 1863 to 1987, it offers a bit of rustic charm to all that visit it. The only drawback being that if like me you’re just not that interested in the manufacturing, treatment, pumping and storage of gas then you’re going to find it a little boring. Funny that most of its visitors seem to be men!
The Dunedin street art scene kicked off in around 2014 when local and international artists were invited to add colour to some of the city walls. Since then, murals have appeared all over the city. It’s really not hard to come across street art in Dunedin. One of the earlier pieces was this one by Welsh-born Sheffield-based muralist and artist Phlegm that can be found on Vogel Street on the exterior wall of Vogel Street Kitchen.
There is something about randomly walking, without agenda or purpose, that is surprisingly relaxing. This is a wee scene I spotted while strolling along Dunedin’s George Street. I think it was the angles and shapes that caught my eye.
When it comes to beaches, I seem to forget about Dunedin’s Tomahawk Beach. Maybe the reason is that it’s so close to home? I’m really not sure! It’s actually a lovely beach to walk along, when the weather is fine of course. Due to its location it can get a tiny bit windy however, on a fine day it’s a lovely walk. If you get your timing right, at low tide once you reach the end of the beach you can even continue around the point to Smaills Beach. Additionally, in 2018 Tomahawk Beach was used as a location for a British bank advertisement. It featured 20 black horses galloping along the beach in a commercial for Lloyds Bank which was called The Running of the Horses. Just how a British bank ended up filming on Tomahawk Beach is really quiet mind boggling.
Without any real intention or set purpose, I returned to the Esplanade at St Clair. I’d been there only a few days earlier, only this time was different. On the previous occasion, I’d spent a glorious afternoon exploring the rock pools surrounding the St Clair Salt Water Pool at low tide. This time however, for reasons I wasn’t sure about and with no-set agenda, I needed to walk. Now, sitting in my car, I waited a few moments for a light rain shower to pass before strolling along the beachfront. I passed both the St Clair Surf Lifesaving club and the statue of ‘Mum’ (a famous local Sea Lion) and looked out beyond rows of sand sausages – massive long tubes made of mesh, filled with sand and put in place to help slow coastal erosion. I watched the incoming tide for a few minutes, turned and headed for the far opposite end of the Esplanade. The whole area was quiet in the fading light as the street lights started to take hold. Reaching the end of the Esplanade by the Salt Water Pool, I paused beside a cafe that must have closed several hours ago. Once again I stood and watched the tide roll in, breaking against the rocks before receding out into the backwash. Every so often patches of sand became exposed, revealing leftover seaweed and driftwood that would shift and move with the tide. I took a moment to look out across the ocean. As the light had continued to fade, the sea had taken on a moody grey-blue complexion. Suddenly to my left the lights of the Hotel St Clair came on and drew my attention back to the Esplanade. In the blue hour of evening, I walked in the salty sea air as darkness held. The lights from the hotel reflected off the road’s glossy surface, created from light misty rain that had recently passed through. The glow of the lights from the hotel revealed a cleaning crew packing up from the day while the restaurant was just starting to become busy. Occasionally, a passing vehicle would slowly pass along couples holding hands, walking in the calm and quiet night air.
The other day I was feeling a bit creatively uninspired. So, to spark my thinking I spent some time reading a bit of poetry by William Blake before going for a walk listening to Blues musicians such as Muddy Waters, Howlin Wolf, BB King, Chuck Berry, Bo Diddley, Blind Willie Johnson and Robert Johnson to name a few. At some point on my walk I passed the University School of Dentistry which I decided looked interesting in Black & White.
I found my way to the Otago University Library. Mainly because it was raining and I was wanting to wander around somewhere interesting. The rain had started while I was walking down Dunedin’s Castle Street and by the time I was approaching the Otago University, it was getting responsibly hard. Needing to find some shelter, I ducked into the Otago University Library where I figured I might as well see what creative angles I could find.
Leaving the Octagon in central Dunedin, I walked along lower Stuart Street before arriving at Dunedin Railway Station. A grand masterpiece of a building that really is magnificent in its splendour. Looking out across ANZAC Square, I couldn’t help but imagine what a hive of activity the place must have been when the station was the busiest in the country. At one time up to 100 trains a day used to arrive at the various platforms which included services from Mosgiel, Port Chalmers, Palmerston, Oamaru, Central Otago, Christchurch, Gore and Invercargill.
My destination was St Paul’s Cathedral which today stands on the northern edge of The Octagon. However, back in the 1850’s after Otago was first settled, if the Anglican Church community’s vision had come to pass, the Cathedral would now be sitting directly in the middle of the Octagon. When the plans for Dunedin city were first laid out in 1846, space for an Octagonal reserve was left in the city centre. A few years later, while the Anglican community were looking for a location to build a church, they decided the central Octagonal Reserve would be an excellent site and applied directly to the Governor-General for permission to build. One group that wasn’t happy with this idea was the Presbyterian community and when they found out about the building plans, all hell broke loose. In fact, the public outcry was so large that the Otago Superintendent William Cargil had to step in to sortout the mess. The result was the Anglican Church of St Paul’s Cathedral was moved to its now northern locale. Which, if you stand on its steps, has a pretty commanding view.
What is it about calm, still harbours that seem so peaceful. Even on a cold winter’s day in Dunedin. With low clouds, rain and a temperature of no more than 10 degrees, looking out across the tranquil harbour, I couldn’t help but think that there was something rather serene about the whole thing.
Nearly 150 years ago, a man named James Speight, while feeling a little thirsty, decided to see what would happen if he mixed a few malt and hops together. Encouraged by friends Charles Greenslade and William Dawson, his newly created beverage was given the name of Speight’s and a brewery setup on Dunedin’s Rattray Street. A location that has been home to the popular draught amber ale ever since.
It was one of those idle afternoons where while there was plenty I should probably be doing, I’d put it all to one side and went off for an adventure instead. I’d been exploring the Harington Point gun emplacements on Otago Peninsula. A site that was first constructed in response to the threat of a Russian invasion in 1885. Following this, I had made my way down to the shoreline where I had a lovely time trying not to trip over! At some point in between swells, The Monarch came chugging along on one of its wildlife tours. I don’t think they were hoping for someone looking a little unbalanced, trying not to slip into the water but then every trip has a highlight!
It’s fair to say that at the moment, here in Dunedin the mornings aren’t exactly tropical! In fact, they’re simply cold! Fortunately the rain passed through overnight, however the wind that has been present since Friday remains. On this occasion, for some silly reason I decided to go for a walk, I left my car near Sligo Terrace in the Town Belt and made my way in the wind along Scarba Street before turning on Leven and Ross Streets. From there and with the wind at my back, it was a short downhill canter before joining the walkway heading back up City Road to Sligo Terrace. Along the way I took several photos, one of which is featured today. Note to self, wear gloves next time!
There’s a strange time of morning at the end of autumn and the beginning of winter when it’s not quite light, yet not completely dark. It’s a curious time of day, the depths of morning. This is a time where shadows creep and the night lingers on paths that seem twisted with form. The wind whispers, dark corners betray our thoughts yet light seems to have a friendly, welcoming glow.
To get to this vantage point its a bit of a hike. Not difficult, just awkward more than anything else. That’s because I had to slog my way uphill through dense sand dunes that were heavily overgrown. The problem that created was that I couldn’t always see where I was stepping. However, the uphill struggle was worth the effort because the views from the small rocky ledge were very rewarding.
How I like still, clear and undisturbed water on a tranquil morning. There’s something rather soothing about looking out across a lake, harbour or ocean that is as calm as a mill pond. It’s a very positive feeling. It makes me think that today everything is going to be ok, the sun will shine and it’ll only get better from this point.
As we head into the last few weeks of autumn here’s an image from one of my autumnal strolls. This one was taken at Chingford Park in North Dunedin on a gloriously fine, yet chill afternoon.
… from a Small City. My daily musings from Ōtepoti to get you inspired. Read the blog, view the photos, embrace the creativity.
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St Clair Salt Water Pool
