Afternoon on the Pigroot
My drive back to Dunedin along the well known Pigroot took me from the Maniototo Plains to the Kakanui Ranges before dropping down into the Shag Valley and on to the small town of Palamerston. On the way I stopped at the Pigroot creek bridge near Mount Obi. Back in the 1880s, this was the site of the Pigroot Hotel. Officially named The Halfway House but more commonly known as ‘The Pigroot Hotel’ and run by proprietors John and Isabella Freeland, the popular coaching hotel provided food and accommodation for those travelling to and from the goldfields in Central Otago. That was of course until the Central Otago Railway opened and made travelling easier, quicker and much more comfortable.
As I left my car in the nearby picnic area , I spied a memorial that had been erected by the descendants of Freelands. After several minutes of imagining what the scene must have been like in the throes of winter backdropped with a busy hotel I eventually manoeuvred my car back onto State Highway 85 later on to Dunedin.
Fog At Kyeburn
The scene before me conveyed a sense of isolation and quiet stillness. In the distance a solitary, tall tree stood in the middle of an open, fog-covered field. The tree’s bare branches and the landscape around it appeared empty and quiet. The dense fog muted the background, creating a dreamy, atmosphere that only emphasised a lone presence in the vastness. Taking a last look at the silent, dreamy expanse I turned back towards my car before continuing the journey home.
Fog on the Maniototo
I had left Naseby under the assumption I would drive straight home. Well, as straight as you can when you have to cover a distance of 135 kilometres and travel on two different state highways! Retracing my drive through the Pigroot, it wasn’t long before I was once again engulfed in brainsucking, apocalyptic fog. It also wasn’t long before I came across the turn off to Danseys Pass. Located in the Kakanui Ranges, the mountain pass was first used in the 1850’s to link rural towns in the Maniototo region with rural places on the other side of the ranges like Duntroon and Kurow. For a moment I considered taking this a very major detour of venturing up through the pass and returning home to Dunedin via Oamaru. While I was pondering this option on the side of the road, I became aware of the presence of a farm shed lost in the mist and fog that made the decision for me. There, standing alone in the fog, was an old, weathered metal barn. A power pole stood nearby, its wires cutting through the misty air, the ground damp from the heavy dew stretching into the fog.
Curling in Naseby
By the time I arrived in Naseby the fog had cleared to reveal a beautiful, yet chilly winter’s day. Having taken a backroad as a shortcut, my first sight of the small town was of the Naseby Indoor Curling Rink and Adventure Park. A place that seemed incredibly busy for the middle of the week. Spotting a parking space, I squeezed my car in between two extremely large 4×4’s and proceeded to go for a wonder and find out just what attractions an Adventure Park on the Maniototo Plains holds.
Across the road, in a stroke of what was simply dumb luck, I found a curling competition was taking place. Feeling rather pleased with my good fortune, I inquired with a few people who I assumed were locals if this was bonspiel? They quickly replied ‘no’ in between chuckles of laughter and explained that the ice wasn’t thick enough for that yet, however if the run of weather continued, they’d get close. This, they went on to explain, was a local tournament. It was then that I sensed that I might be holding them up and as they seemed rather agitated and keen to get back to what was being referred to as the ‘ice’. Following them through a line of trees, I discovered a rather large gathering of people who were having the most wonderful time on a frozen outdoor pond. They were bundled up in winter gear, using brooms and curling stones on the ice. Nearby equipment and beverages were scattered along the edges of the pond, giving the whole scene a delightfully casual, community feel. I took some time to take in the surrounding landscape featuring tall trees and dry grass, while the light from the now clear sky cast long shadows across the ice. It really was the most peaceful, wintery atmosphere. And not one of them slipped over! A feat I was very impressed with.
The Corner of Ridge and Kyeburn/Ranfurly Road near Kyeburn
I reached Kyeburn, a small rural settlement on the wide Maniototo plains which stands at the junction of several state highways. Here the mist started to lift a little, for a moment giving a glimpse of the surrounding fields. It was about the time I was passing through Kyeburn that I became hopeful that I might come across some curling at my final destination of Naseby. Recently, I had read that due to the prolonged low temperatures and formation of thick ice, several curling competitions had been held in the area and the current conditions I was passing through gave the indication that the run of low temperatures would continue for some time yet.
Mist on State Highway 85
Leaving Dunedin I headed north for nearly an hour. The mid-morning traffic was light and I was pleased to find that apart from an occasional ute or truck, I mostly had the road to myself. This was a pleasant surprise as having driven this particular section of State Highway 1 between Dunedin and Palmerston enough times to do it blindfolded, I can tell you this isn’t always the case. Usually the road is filled with campervans, trucks and vehicles whose primary objective seems to be to frustrate me until I develop a healthy dose of road rage. However, on this occasion I arrived in the small town of Palmerston with relatively low blood pressure and that’s always a bonus. At Palmerston, I left State Highway 1, turned on to State Highway 85, heading inland for Central Otago and Naseby. More commonly known as the Pigroot (although no-one knows just why), I made my way over the Kakanui Ranges before dropping down onto the Maniototo Plains. Which is where I once again found the brainsucking, apocalyptic fog.
With the world having disappeared into a world of mist and fog and visibility reduced to a ten metre bubble surrounding my car, I slowed to a speed that would give me enough time to dodge anything that might suddenly appear in front of me. This also meant I could enjoy looking at the heavy layer of frost that had settled on the fence lines that ran alongside the road. This continued for some time and at my slow speed, it also gave me the time to decide just what it was that I was going to do in Naseby. Until that moment, I didn’t actually know.
Moa Cottage at Gimmerburn
Oh how I do like the name ‘The Gimmerburn’. It’s got that whole, ‘where the hell is that?’ feel to it. So, if you’re wondering, Gimmerburn is a farming community and is about 11 kilometres southwest of Ranfurly. Which means it’s pretty much in the middle of nowhere on the Maniototo Plains. I guess that’s what makes it interesting.
Curling in Naesby
In Naesby I found people curling which wasn’t really a surprise considering how cold it was. So, I decided to stay and watch a while. It was quite interesting really. Over the half hour I was there, I walked around and heard all sorts of terms I’d never heard before and didn’t really understand. But, I can say this, they seemed to be having a great deal of fun and what’s more, not one person slipped over while I was there. A feat I was rather impressed with.
Moa Creek, Manorburn, and Puketoi – Buy
Having spent the morning, and part of the afternoon driving the dirt roads of the Maniototo, I arrived at an intersection. The day was warm and fine and over the last few hours I’d been driving roads with names such as Gimmerburn, Gimmerburn-Naseby, Gimmerburn-Waipiata, Maniototo, Sharkey and Moa Cottage. There were place names that included Moa Creek, Manorburn and Puketoi to name a few. At the intersection I carefully surveyed the options, eventually pointed the car in the direction of Waipiata and headed off in a cloud of dust.
Kokonga Road – Buy
That morning I had set off with the idea of heading towards Middlemarch and maybe continuing on to Kyeburn in the Maniototo. However, beyond that I really wasn’t sure what I was going to do. I’m not sure when, but at some point I decided to detour into Waipiata via Kokonga and Kokonga Road.
Stock on the Mniototo – Buy
I’d spent the day driving the dirt roads near Gimmerburn in the Maniototo looking for old structures. Actually, I wasn’t altogether sure what I was searching for, I just trusted that I’d know when I saw it. It was somewhere between Gimmerburn and Waipiata that I found an old water race that seemed a good subject for further investigation when I saw these sheep in a nearby paddock looking strangely curious.
Gimmerburn Hall – Buy
Leaving the town of Waipiata, 15 kilometres along the road I came across Gimmerburn and a wonderful old hall. I loved it instantly! Later on I read the ‘burn’ name comes from the Scottish word for stream which was named on a survey map, created in 1850 by John Turnbull Thomson.
Waipiata rail bridge – Buy
I arrived in the small town of Waipiata in the Maniototo close to midday. The traffic coming from Central Otago had been surprisingly light and having parked close to where the Railway Station used to stand in the centre of town, I realised I was ready to go for a stroll and stretch my legs.
Chimney stack on the Maniototo– Buy
In places like the Ida Valley, Blackstone Hill, Kyeburn, Patearoa and near the Rock and Pillar there are old structures scattered all around the place. They are like a window into the past that tell stories of human existence, past lives and hint at a sense of belonging in a timeless place.
Looking over the land, I like the questions those old structures ask and how they hint towards a forgotten human presence. Here, a crumbling chimney stack sits in a dry and sunburned field, just beyond a small pond in the wide open spaces of The Maniototo.
Lone Tree In The Maniototo – Buy
I like the name ‘Gimmerburn’. It’s got a kind of, ‘where the hell is that?’ feeling. It’s one of those place names that makes you wonder about the place itself. After all, ‘The Gimmerburn’ hardly sounds like a bustling suburb of London or New York.
So, one day after a self guided tiki tour through the Maniototo, and at one stage passing through The Gimmerburn, I found this lovely singular tree.
… from a Small City. My daily musings from Ōtepoti to get you inspired. Read the blog, view the photos, embrace the creativity.
