Aotearoa, Christchurch, Christchurch CBD, South Island, Wild Horses

Ōtākaro

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The Avon River / Ōtākaro

Finding myself on foot in central Christchurch, I started following the path of the Avon River as it twists and turns through central Christchurch. As I walked and followed the river, I discovered that there are useful information boards that tell you all sorts of interesting historical facts about not only the area, but the river itself. Such as, for early Māori the river was a rich source of food and a centre point for meeting and trading. I also discovered that while this trading and food gathering was happening, children who would play on the river bank. Which is why it was known to local Māori as Ōtākaro, meaning ‘place to play’.

Aotearoa, Christchurch, Christchurch CBD, Travel, Wild Horses

Three Things I Discovered In Christchurch

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Cashel Street In Christchurch

I spent three days in Christchurch filling in time and not having to be anywhere at all if I didn’t want to. So, I spent my time walking the city streets, as well as exploring the Port Hills and discovering suburbs like Lyttelton and Sumner.  It was while walking through Christchurch’s city centre that I decided upon three things. 

Firstly, I only have a very vague idea of what Christchurch looked like before the 2011 earthquake. I wish I could say I know the city well, but the truth is I haven’t really spent enough time in it to really have much knowledge of its keys features. Unless of course you count being able to find Hagley Park, the former Lancaster Park and the Avon River! 

Secondly, I have completely no idea how’d you go about rebuilding a city. Honestly, where do you start? Is it similar to Monopoly where you divide the streets into colour-groups before you allow people to buy houses from the Bank? 

Lastly, I really like cities that have trams! Or, to be more accurate, I really like the idea of trams! In Christchurch it used to be an extensive network with steam and horse trams operating from 1882 which were then replaced with electric trams that ran from 1905 to 1954. In 1995, the central city loop heritage tram was reopened in the central city as a tourist attraction.

Aotearoa, Christchurch, Christchurch CBD, Wild Horses

Robert Falcon Scott & Tom Crean

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Robert Falcon Scott Statue in Christchurch

One of the things that I didn’t do in Ireland, that is now on my ‘next time I’m there list’, is visiting the Dingle Peninsula. I’d heard it’s nothing short of stunning and gorgeous, with thousands of years worth of history. It’s also the place that Irish explorer Tom Crean called home. 

From the small village of Annascaul on the Dingle Peninsula, Tom Crean joined the Royal Navy at the age of 16. By the time he was 24, he found himself on British explorer Robert Falcon Scott’s ship Discovery in his failed attempt to reach the South Pole in 1901. When Scott returned to Antarctica for another attempt at the pole in 1910, Tom Crean once again invited along. In fact, Scott was so impressed with Crean on his initial attempt at the pole, he was one of the first people recruited for the return mission. So, when Scott’s party finally began their march towards the pole in Antarctica in November 1911, Crean was an important part of the polar team. As they marched south with a mix of tractors, dogs and horses, the party grew smaller and smaller as machines broke down, horses and dogs were shot and men were sent back to base camp. Eventually, when the final pole party of 5 was announced and Tom Crean wasn’t included, Scott wrote in his diary that Crean wept with disappointment at the prospect of having to turn back. 

As Crean headed back to the Ross Island base, Scott and his companions pushed to the pole. They arrived on 17 January 1912, only to find that Norwegian Roald Amundsen had beaten them by nearly a month. Utterly devastated, Scott and his party started their long march home in a terrible state. Weak, hungry, low on rations and suffering from frostbite, the five men in Scott’s pole party desperately pushed on for home. The first to die was Edgar Evans followed by Lawrence Oats. On the 19th March the three remaining men of Henry Bowers, Edward Wilson and Robert Scott pitched a tent just 11 miles from the large One Ton Depot. Trapped by a blizzard with little food and even less fuel, the three men sat out the blizzard, they wouldn’t survive. When the tent was finally discovered eight months later, the positions of the bodies suggest Scott was the last to die. His final words written in his journal: For God’s sake look after our people.Tom Crean returned to the Antarctic a third time with Ernest Shackleton’s ill-fated Endurance Expedition in 1914. The Endurance became trapped in ice and the mission became one of survival. They hauled their gear (boat’s included) until the pack ice broke up, sailed to Elephant Island and then four men (including Shackleton and Crean) sailed on to South Georgia Island before trekking across the mountainous landscape to the whaling station at Stromness.

Years later, Crean returned to the Navy until he retired in 1920. In 1938, he became ill with a burst appendix which eventually took his life in July 1938. Today a statue of Tom Crean stands in his hometown of Annascaul, while Robert Falcon Scott is recognised and celebrated all over the world.

Christchurch, Christchurch CBD, South Island, The Avon, Travel

The Avon River In Christchurch

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The Avon River in Christchurch

There are a great many things I’ve never wondered or thought about. Until recently, one of these was the meaning of the word ‘Avon’. I knew it was a popular name for a river, but it had never concerned me that it might actually mean something! My pondering about the word Avon took me down the intriguing rabbit hole of etymology. It seems that the name “Avon” is a Celtic word and survives from the Welsh word ‘afon’ meaning river. So, therefore we can say that Christchurch’s Avon River literally means ‘river river’.

Aotearoa, Christchurch, Christchurch CBD, South Island, Travel

Flour Power

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Flour Power by Regan Gentry

Leaving Hagley Park, I crossed the Avon River and strolled along Rolleston Avenue before turning left onto Worcester Street. Passing the Christchurch Arts Centre while dodging trams, I continued until somehow met the Avon River again. From there, I found my way to Cathedral Square where I enjoyed a quiet moment or two taking in the various sculptures that are scattered around. One of which, located across from the Cathedral on the corner of Colombo and Hereford Street at the beginning of a pedestrian mall is a sculpture titled Flour Power by Regan Gentry. Gifted to the city in 2008, the steel structure stands an impressive 15 metres high and is kinda fun to stand under!

Christchurch, Christchurch CBD, Creativity, The Avon

Bridge of Remembrance in Christchurch

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Bridge of Remembrance In Christchurch

You would never know that the Bridge of Remembrance was once damaged in an earthquake. Located over the Avon River in Christchurch, it stands as a memorial to both World War I & II,  along with the conflicts in Korea, Malaya, Borneo, and Vietnam. Structurally damaged in the February earthquake of 2011, when it was repaired, an 8 tonne beam was used to reinforce the arch and 27 metre piles were built so in any future earthquakes it rocks rather than twists. 

Aotearoa, Christchurch, Christchurch CBD, Travel

The Little Fiddle In Christchurch

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The Little Fiddle In Christchurch

I made my way through streets that looked vaguely familiar. Not having a great knowledge of Christchurch’s CBD, anything past the Avon River was really a mystery to me. Yet, occasionally I found a street or location that seemed recognisable. Colombo Street was one, Manchester Street was another and then of course there was Cathedral Square. The rest looked nothing like I remember it.  But, that’s to be expected when you’re rebuilding a city! 

I made my way along streets, down passage-ways and through alleys with a simply delightful gaze in my eye. It was like discovering a whole new city and I was very much enjoying myself. I walked past new buildings that seemed to feature a style of architecture called ‘jigsaw puzzle pieces that don’t fit’ and shops that either had a minimalist vibe or were still under construction. 

Eventually, I came across a junction point for three laneways. Clearly I was approaching the food and beverage sector of the CBD as nearby there was an Italian Restaurant, a Mexican Bar, A place called ‘The Craft Embassy’ and one known as ‘The Little Fiddle’. It was this last one that caught my eye, for no other reason that it was bright red. It was covered in signs that read “Stout & Porter”, “Pedlers of fine Irish Whiskey, Beer and Wine” and “Try our hot and tasty fare.” It did look very enticing, but unfortunately I still had to navigate my way back to my car and negotiate my way through Christchurch traffic and I wasn’t too sure that alcohol would help the matter.

Aotearoa, Christchurch, Christchurch CBD, Travel

Te Pae Christchurch Convention Centre

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Te Pae Christchurch Convention Centre – Buy 

Finding myself with no place to be, and with a bit of time to spare, I went for an amble around Christchurch. It had been a good five years since I’d visited the city centre and it was with interest that I strolled the streets around Cathedral Square. One of the new buildings I found (although hard to miss) was Te Pae. Te Pae, literally meaning “gathering place” in te reo Māori, is the new Christchurch Convention Centre.

Aotearoa, Christchurch, Christchurch CBD, Travel

The Arts Centre in Christchurch

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The Arts Centre in Christchurch – Buy

These days a section of Hereford Street, Worcester Boulevard and Rolleston Avenue in Christchurch is known as the The Arts Centre. However, back in 1877 when the first building was opened it was known as Canterbury University College. After that, more buildings were added for both Christchurch Boys and Christchurch Girls High Schools until the campus grew so large that the high schools moved and the University took over the entire site. By the 1950’s, the University had grown so large that the University started to make plans to move to a large site. The first shift happened in 1957 when the Fine Arts department relocated. The Engineering department followed in 1959 and by 1975 the entire University had relocated. 

In 1978 the Arts Centre of Christchurch took over the ownership of the site which includes 22 buildings constructed in the Gothic Revival style.

Aotearoa, Christchurch, Christchurch CBD

The Crossing In Christchurch

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Coffee Culture at The Crossing – Buy 

Feeling both restless and hungry, I left the areas around Manchester and Cashel Street. As I edged back towards Cathedral Square, I became drawn to a walkway named Cashfields Lane. A narrow thoroughfare that’s closely surrounded by shops that opens to a retail and hospitality complex known as The Crossing. Ignoring the surrounding fashion outlets, my search for food took me past eatery’s such as Zeeks, Coffee Culture and Joyful Express before settling on the authentic Korean street food at The Chicken.

Aotearoa, Christchurch, Christchurch CBD

Riverside Market In Christchurch

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Riverside Market – Buy 

I couldn’t remember the last time I was in Christchurch. I’d driven through it plenty of times however I had no idea when I was last in the city centre. So, it was with some interest that I left my car on Park Terrace near Hagley Park, walked the short distance up Worcester Street until I reached the Avon River. Exactly what I was doing or where I was going, I wasn’t too sure however a short time later I found myself entering the Riverside Market. Opening in 2019, the Riverside Market overlooks the river and is filled with boutique retailers, restaurants, cafes & bars. It has 30 independent food outlets and 40 fresh food stalls covering 3500 square metres and attracts over 10,000 a day. It really is a wonderful place!